[Clutch Overhaul Instructions for FZ750] by Kevin Foote

[Parts]
* New springs (for ten quid I would stick them in anyway)
* Clutch cover gasket
* New friction plates (if req)
* New engine oil

[Tools]
* Torque wrench (not essential but preferred), spanners inc 19mm for sump plug.
* Stand.
* 8mm socket and ratchet.
* Scraper.
* Soft faced (rubber) mallet.

[Specs]
* Spring min length- 54.00mm
* Clutch friction plate min thickness- 2.50mm (note the plates only have about 2.9mm as new)
* Spring bolts torque 8Nm


The night before you start stick your new plates in a tray of clean engine oil for at least 24 hrs, this will make sure the friction material will not tear when you first drop the clutch.




/// STRIP AND INSPECT ///

Stick on the centre/paddock stand.

Drain the oil.

Undo the clutch cover. Keep the bolts in a safe place. There's no need to mark them as I'm sure there are only 2 lengths.

Pull the cover, there are small taping areas if the cover is reluctant, use a rubber mallet.

Now evenly work from opposite to opposite sides of the clutch and slacken off the 5 bolts which hold the pressure plate on. The clutch is well designed and there is plenty of thread so it's very difficult to strip any. The spring pressure will drop before the thread is finished.

Pull the pressure plate.

Pull all the clutch plates out one by one and place them face down in the order they came off. PLEASE NOTE you may have a spring ring and it then section friction plate somewhere near the centre plate, (like pos 4 or 5). The thin section plate must go back with the spring ring.

Inspect the clutch basket for damage. ie pitting or grooving in the can be smoothed, but severe damage must mean replacement. Inspect the clutch hub for damage. Any damage on the basket or hub may cause dragging. Ensure the basket for cracking, Ensure the oil transfer holes are clear. NOTE the recommended clutch modification of drilling additional oil transfer holes may have been done. Ensure this is ok and has not led to any damage eg cracking.

Inspect you plates and springs and renew if past service limit.

Inspect engine breather (inside of clutch cover) is clear.




/// RE ASSEMBLY ///


Replace the plates one by one. PLEASE NOTE to replace the ring and special plate in the same position it came out (Usually pos 4 or 5). FZ Opinion is divided on the requirement of the spring. It is up to you to replace or not. If you choose not to, you can replace the special friction plate with a standard section one. The ring is designed to help separation and chattering when disengaged. Put a liberal squirt of engine oil between each plate as you put it in.

When all plates are replaced in the correct order, replace pressure plate

Replace springs and start the thread of each (5) spring bolt.

Work opposite to opposite and VERY LIGHTY tighten each bolt.

If you have a torque wrench capable of 8nm then torque each bolt to this. TAKE CARE to do this evenly between the bolts. If you do not then do each bolt up so that it is JUST FIRM TO FIRM TO JUST GETTING TIGHT with a standard length spanner. Try to get each bolt the same. 8NM is very small (for example 10NM is standard torque for a M6 10mm head bolt) so be careful not to overtighten. BE WARNED!!!!

Clean up gasket surfaces, taking care not to drop any into the engine.

Fit new gasket ( no need for any sealant).

Replace cover and refit bolts.

Refill engine oil.

Start bike and check operation.

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