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1 28/02/2004 12:19:05 Ticeman Engine swap Unbolt the old. Bolt the in the new. Anything but a YZF engine. Just been watching this catagory for so long and nobody was posting. Something had to be done. Tony :lol:
2 02/03/2004 23:38:49 Jakeeboy Re: Engine swap Is it really that easy? Surely you have to fit the fzr1000 CDi unit, Radiator, Exhausts and Carbs?
3 03/03/2004 01:50:50 Ticeman Re: Engine swap Pretty much. Use a 89 or 88 TCI box, match the wires from the unit you used to the connector. And the single pick-up from the 89 or 88 whichever you used. Use a Supertrapp 4-2-1 exhaust for the 89 and newer engines, heat and bend the pipes on the bottom curve to clear the oil pan if you have to and have a custom made mid pipe for the high mount canister of your choice. I'm using a titanium ZERO canister (Moriwaki) in the tear drop shape. Use a Yosh for the 87/88. Use the carbs off the engine it was meant for. I used 89 engine cases with a 91 oil pump, pick-up, and pan. I machined the cases to hold the 91 oil filter and cooler and used a 91 radiator. I had to use the 91 water pump pipe from the cylinder too for the outlet and piping for the cooler. Straight forward. Tony
4 03/03/2004 18:52:36 Jakeeboy Re: Engine swap I'm not much of a mechanic. Apparantly the engine I have my eye on is a pre exup fzr 1000 engine. The carbs that are on offer with it are stage 3 dynojet whatever that is. The exhaust on offer is a 4-1 Race pipe for a pre exup FZR1000, Cobra I think, very loud I'm told. Will not the standard FZ exhaust fit? My bike is a bog standard 1988 FZ750 Genesis.(full fairing) Where would I get a TCI box? I also was told that the radiator on the fzr1000 was a 25mm wider and the fan 10mm larger. Also are the engine mounts in the same place and will it physically fit straight into the frame? i.e is the engine externally exactly the same dimensions? Sorry for all the questions but I appreciate your advice. I wonder if the performance increase would be very noticable? Thanks.
5 04/03/2004 12:26:35 Ticeman Re: Engine swap The engines are not the samew outside dimensions but the mounts are in the same spot. As I said earlier, it is a bolt in operation. I'm not sure on the radiator differences between the 87/88 FZR1000 and FZ750 so I can't comment accurately. I'm not sure about your stock exhaust fitting on the 1000 but, if it does it will certainly cut down the performance edge the 1000 motor gives. And yes, that edge is considerable. Finding a TCI box shouldn't be hard, check with the breakers in your area. Tony
6 04/03/2004 14:04:44 Dutch Re: Engine swap Unbolt the old. Bolt the in the new. Anything but a YZF engine.' Tony, trust you mean the R1. When I remember correctly you once mentioned on a YZF750 engine 'like it was meant to be there in the beginning'. And isn't the engine of the YZF Thunderace very similar to an FZR1000 mill? Haven't seen an R7 engine lying around, but an YZF600 R6 mill would be quite a blast ;-) Cheers, Dutch
7 08/03/2004 13:01:56 Ticeman Re: Engine swap Good point Dutch. The R1, R7, R6 style engines, all of those are the stacked trannys, meaning it won't fit. And yes, the YZF750 engine (non R7 style) would be a bolt in too. The Thunder Ace(?, Cat?) (1000cc engine) or YZF1000 would most likely fit although, I personally don't know of a single person that has done that swap. The engine has the same layout of the FZR but, I haven't looked closely at one of those so, I'm not positive. Tony
8 08/03/2004 15:53:04 Dutch Re: Engine swap Think it was a fella on the German mailing list that had used an Ace engine. I can ask for details if you're interested. Cheers, Dutch
9 01/03/2004 20:43:50 CDNFZ750 Carbs Is it common for a older bike to leak fuel from the carbs when it is running would the gaskets dry with age?
10 02/03/2004 01:00:08 Ticeman Re: Carbs Absolutely. Tony
11 09/05/2004 05:46:46 MTK16 Noisy Primary Drive Chain I've just recently picked up an 85 FZ750. Its got 75000K's on the clock so is getting up there a bit. Just lately I've noticed the primary drive chain making a lot of noise, and its only getting worse. I'm not too keen to take this to a mechanic as the money will probably be more than I'd get for the bike. Has anyone replaced their primary chain before, and if so is there anything I need to watch out for when doing this? At the moment I'm just considering replacing it, if its too big a job, the bike will be gone. Cheers Chris
12 09/05/2004 19:39:14 Tommi Re: Noisy Primary Drive Chain Complete engine disassmebly is needed which is time consuming job. But I don't know, if you have time, money, and motivation, give a try! Btw, how can you be sure it is the primary chain that is making the noise? Are you sure it can't be something else like eg. generator, clutch, etc? Is the noise there all the time or does is disappear when more revs? Tommi
13 09/05/2004 21:45:39 MTK16 Re: Noisy Primary Drive Chain I'm 99% certain its the primary chain. The noise is always there. It is in the bottom end of the engine. As revs increase the ticking sound just increases in frequency. I've been and spoken to a few mechanics, and both seemed to think it was the primary drive chain. Ticking is a bit of an understatement I think for this sound. It sounds quite severe, has that rattly chain sound about it. I've just got the bike and I'm loving riding it, but I think this job might be a bit big for a poor university student. Thanks for the quick reply Chris
14 10/05/2004 13:16:56 TomBe Re: Noisy Primary Drive Chain You may be surprised how 'easy' it is. I had to take mine entirely apart, and although time consuming, with care I've been quite successful. The costs are not that bad, mostly you'll have to replace gaskets and seals only. Unless, of course, you run across other problems with the bike. If you decide to do it, get a book (I believe the Clymer's the only one there is) and the service manual was available online. Also, under parts/parts catalog has great blow ups and parts listings. Lastly, and most important. Use this forum, Tommi and others have been life savers for me, as sometimes the book and service manual are ambiguous. TomB
15 12/05/2004 00:23:50 MTK16 Re: Noisy Primary Drive Chain Thanks. I'm waiting for my dad to have a look and listen this weekend. Based on his opinion I'll be deciding what to do with the bike. I'm not too worried about actually having to do the work, well thats not entirely true. It would just mean I'd be off the road for a while as my next holidays aren't for about 6 weeks, and that'll be the next chance I get to look at it. I'm Just a bit worried that as I pull the engine apart I'm going to find everything else thats wrong with it, and being a student money is a slight issue. I'll let you know next week what's going to be happening. Cheers Chris
16 13/05/2004 14:33:06 MTK16 Re: Noisy Primary Drive Chain Well, i've been thinking about this a bit. And I've got one quote for parts $170US for the parts, but I still need to ship them which will be about another $50 i assume. What I'm wondering is, if I pull the whole engine apart and am actually going to do this, what else should I check at the same time? I don't see the point in spending the money and time doing it if all that I'm going to get is an engine with a good primary chain and everything else falling apart. I have no idea if the bike has had engine work on it, so at 75000KM's what would normally need to be done. Cheers Chris
17 14/05/2004 10:12:07 Tommi Re: Noisy Primary Drive Chain You are absolutely correct; it is a good time for checking and replacing other parts as well. I would say that you should also replace: - gearbox bearings (atleast the output shaft bearing, it is known to be a weak point of FZ) - camshaft chain (easy to change when the engine is open) You should also consider to replace: - crankshaft and connection rod bearings - other bearings Also check: - any other part! Tommi
18 22/05/2004 07:13:24 MTK16 Re: Noisy Primary Drive Chain Well I looked at the manual, and it is far too much work for me to take on. So the bike is on the market. I know that it probably will last for ages, but the noise drives me crazy. Hopefully I can find a newer FZ, if not I'll see what I can find. Thanks for all the help Chris
19 25/05/2004 21:05:03 rooots39 88 fz to yzf will a yzf750 engine fit in my 88 bike and what mods will i need to do as i think my piston rings are worn as starting to leak at rocker gasket,fixed that then oil level window seal then cover plate beside that aswell,getting engine cheap so would becheaper than fixing said engine,any comments appreciated :-(
20 29/05/2004 12:06:56 Ticeman Re: 88 fz to yzf It will bolt in like it was there to begin with. You'll need the ignitor box and carbs to finish the job. It would be even better if you had the radiator and the plumbing to go with it too. Tony
21 13/10/2004 16:35:00 foxstein Re: 88 fz to yzf I know you'll all hate me for saying this but the better option would be to buy a complete YZF it is a much better bike. I own both but I still have a soft spot for the FZ, have owned it for over 12 years now and has never let me down, gonna use it as a track bike now Mick
22 17/10/2004 03:46:41 fj1289 Re: 88 fz to yzf ?! Why not the YZF as the track bike?!
23 19/10/2004 18:41:57 foxstein Re: 88 fz to yzf Why not indeed, have been to 2 track days on the yzf, but I don't want to crash it and don't want to thrash it too much either. It's hard not to thrash it when someone passes you, and I don't want to take the risks of killing it or trashing it. The FZ is a bit more expendable, and I love my YZF too much. p.s. last time I went on a track day round Cadwell Park I had Steve Plater as my instructor. He just flew past us all lol. For those of you who don't know Steve Plater is a BSB rider. Mick
24 01/06/2004 12:36:41 Belet FZR 1000 Engine and FZ 750 Engine Hello. I found a pretty good FZR 1000 bike with a dead engine to sale. Not totally sure about this, but it seems that it is a piston rod problem. The fact is that I have 2 full engine of 750 FZ available. I wonder why, it normally never break :) As the swap between 750 and 1000 engine is a straight bolt in, I suppose that the oil pan are the same. I also know that we can swap the 2 gear box, with 5 ou 6 gears. Is it the same with all the bottom of the engine? The differences may be only on the top parts, cylinders, cylinders head? Search for an answer or a link... Thanks. Arnaud.
25 02/06/2004 04:34:46 SUZUME Re: FZR 1000 Engine and FZ 750 Engine FZR1000has 2types. Which do you mean? By the way, The oilpan gasket of FZ750 is usable for YZF1000/750. If your FZ750 was 2GH '87-89, someone made 911cc engine with its upper and FZ's bottom including FZ's comlods. I don't know the case of 3GM '89-94 and also I don't know the reason. The bottom is common but their most of tiny parts are different. E.G. their oil line, clank, gear ratio.... See their specs at You can do if you want.
26 24/06/2004 06:19:12 RIFLEMAN Re: FZR 1000 Engine and FZ 750 Engine :-D Arnaud, The 1000 parts will fit in the 750 and you can put the 750 gear box in the 1000 cases. I use the stock 750 cases & transmission,1000 crank,rods, cylinder block,head and clutch basket. Pistons are 1040cc Arias. You will have to open up the deck surface on the 750 cases to accept the cylinders in the 1000 cylinder block. You will also have to get a 1000 TCI as the 1000 crank only has 1 trigger instead of 2. Also,a couple of wires in the TCI connector need to be swaped around to make the 750 wiring harness compatable with the 1000 TCI. Hope this helps! RIFLEMAN :pint: [quote] Belet wrote: Hello. I found a pretty good FZR 1000 bike with a dead engine to sale. Not totally sure about this, but it seems that it is a piston rod problem. The fact is that I have 2 full engine of 750 FZ available. I wonder why, it normally never break :) As the swap between 750 and 1000 engine is a straight bolt in, I suppose that the oil pan are the same. I also know that we can swap the 2 gear box, with 5 ou 6 gears. Is it the same with all the bottom of the engine? The differences may be only on the top parts, cylinders, cylinders head? Search for an answer or a link... Thanks. Arnaud. [/quote]
27 18/08/2004 03:32:04 fj1289 Re: FZR 1000 Engine and FZ 750 Engine I know this is an old thread... Do the 89 and later FZR1000 cylinders, etc bolt to the 88 FZ750 cases? I realize the cylider studs will need to be changed for length - studs,cooling passages, etc line up? Or is the 911 mod only work with the 87-88 FZR1000 top end pieces? Thanks, Chris
28 10/06/2004 09:46:53 MTK16 88 FZ750 and 85 FZ750 Can anyone tell me the difference between the 88 FZ750 engine and the 85 FZ750 engine. My 85 FZ750 is getting a bit rattly, although it has all new gaskets, fuel pump, starter assembly, piston circlips and various other bits and pieces. I have come across an 88 FZ750 engine, with a hole in the sump, sounds like he hit something hard. I was thinking that if I can just unbolt the sump on the 85 and bolt in on the 88 it may be a good investment, otherwise a waste of time. Thoughts?? Cheers Chris
29 10/06/2004 09:54:40 MTK16 Re: 88 FZ750 and 85 FZ750 Actually, there is a hole bike for sale which has been crashed. It sounds like it is ruined cosmetically, but a lot of the other parts are OK. Would it be a worthwhile purchase as a parts bike if it was cheap? Cheers Chris
30 10/06/2004 10:59:16 MTK16 Re: 88 FZ750 and 85 FZ750 Just discovered that its an FZR750, not an FZ. From what I can tell, the engine isn't that different, but anyway, that may make a difference. Cheers Chris
31 24/06/2004 06:05:56 RIFLEMAN Re: 88 FZ750 and 85 FZ750 :-) Chris, Should be a straight bolt on. Just make sure that there isn't a rod dangling outta that hole! Cheers! :pint: PS:Ever hear of Duane Carmont or Richard Taling?
32 04/08/2004 22:05:54 FZ_911 Pushrods Hey I need information about pushrods for a FZ700 cc with hub of 48mm. ( American model ? ) Diameter at the piston pin end. Diameter at the crank end. And center to center of above mentioned. Well I dissassembly my 700cc engine and had to look my self.... couldent not wait anymore.. So if any need the information here they are... Diameter at piston end 18mm. Diameter at crank end 36mm. Lengt is center to center 113mm. (+3.5mm more) and that is good, they have to be used with 1FN engine and 1987 FZR1000 cylinder and head. The pushrod is actualy too long but I make gasket under cylinder 1mm thick. For a good 911 engine......hopefully. Regards FZ_911 :-x :-x
33 09/08/2004 00:54:05 FZ750_NY 2,000-4,000 RPM Problem i Have my stock carbs, uni individual air filters, V+H 4-1 exhaust and i have a really bad stumbble from 2,000-4,000 rpm in all gears. i have the K+N stage 3 jets in there but the stock ones did it too. I was reading the trouble shooting guide that came witht he jets and k+n talked about "cam overlap" which happens when you change the exhaust and carbs. Its really bad on this bike, sometimes if i'm going up a hill and theres no was to shift into a lower gear it will stumbble really bad, and cometimes get flooded where it will stall and need atleast 5-10 mins to start fully where it will rev up past 2,000 and keep an idel. what im asking is if anyone had this problem and has anyone been able to fix it? let me know, thanks
34 06/09/2004 12:28:52 Need4Speed Re: 2,000-4,000 RPM Problem Sounds like a similar problem I had years ago on my FZ750. It ended up needing a carb sync and idle adjust. Have you done either recently? Before I did it I would shut off the bike to fill up on gas and then it wouldn't start for about ten minutes. Similar setup to yours, Supertrap 4 into 1 exhaust, K&N filters, jetted.
35 07/12/2004 16:23:38 Jimocasio Re: 2,000-4,000 RPM Problem I've spent tons of money trying to fix mine with the same problem, no one ever told me how to stop it. I did, stage 1 K&N jet, K&N Filter, CObra F1s pipe, Accel 8mm Wires and super coils. No change, and three people supposadly tried, but I think they just ripped me off. Any ideas on how to get rid of that problem would be great@!! :-?
36 20/12/2004 20:22:16 gaillarry Re: 2,000-4,000 RPM Problem It could be something as simple as a vapor lock in the gas tank, causing fuel starvation/ Check the vent hole in the gas cap. Always look for the simple solutions first, then panic!
37 08/01/2009 16:02:24 rob1138 Re: 2,000-4,000 RPM Problem If you read the install instructions to dynojets jet kit for the fz750 there is a fix for a rich mixture under 4k rpm. The instructions are available on their website.
38 10/01/2009 02:01:17 ganepeil Re: 2,000-4,000 RPM Problem FZ, Your' info is good, a short tutorial can be found in Kevin Camerons "Sportbike Fundamentals". He specificly cites the fz. I've had pretty good success with mine, by 1, running stock airbox w/K&N filter. It has internal velocity stacks which assist flow momentum. 2, using stock needles, either raised a clip, or shimed to equivilant. Jet kits provide rich (skinny) needles which exagerate the already rich condition caused by cam overlap and the exhaust shock wave which screws up exhaust scavanging at 2-4 grand. This flat spot was the reason Yamaha came up with the EXUP valve which has since become an industry standard. I've read, but not tried articles which tout installing restrictors inside header pipes at exhaust ports. as it seems like robbing peter to pay paul. I currently run a D&D 4-2-1, which I shortened @ 2" at mid pipe. as a result, My flat spot is barely discernable "seat of pants", however is still apparent on dyno graphs. More info can be researched in the librarys of . If I ever manage to incorperate my bits & pieces to fit EXUP to the 7-10, I'llbe proud to share... hope this helps. G
39 17/03/2009 21:06:03 FZ750Dude Re: 2,000-4,000 RPM Problem I am thinking that the flat spot is particularly due to the exhaust. I have an 86 fz750 and granted the motor has seen better days but when I first got the bike (10,000 miles ago) the only thing changed on it was a yoshi 4-1 exhaust. Other than that it was stock. Even stock air filter, and it had the flat spot from around 2200-3700 rpm.
40 17/10/2004 04:20:21 fj1289 911 vs 1000? I have an 88 FZ750 and recently purchased an 88 FZR1000 engine with the tranny going out. I've read through the old archives. What additional advise is there for this combo? I want a good, fun street engine using mostly "stock" parts Carbs - 750 or 1000? Or YZF 750? Exhaust - 4-1 or 4-2-1? Recommendations on tube diameter? Head - 1000 head or 750? Cams - Do they interchange between the heads? Which intake and which exhaust to use? Recommended lobe centers? When I do start going for more mods - after the 1029 big bore postons, what mods are most effective on these engines? Flatslide Carbs? Head work (porting [smaller ports or bigger ports?]oversized valves)? Cams? Thanks, Chris
41 07/12/2004 16:20:29 Jimocasio Re: 911 vs 1000? Inquiring minds want tp know, did ou ever get a reply through e-mail or something?
42 13/03/2005 05:22:22 fj1289 Re: 911 vs 1000? Nope. No responses. I don't check here too often since it doesn't look like this board gets a lot of traffic. I keep slowly collecting parts, but have to push through a couple of other projects right now on the house and another bike.
43 18/03/2005 20:37:28 Dutch Re: 911 vs 1000? Afraid that's true, most of us are quite attached to the bbs of :-D And sometimes it might help to ask 1 simple question at a time, to keep us simple brains from overflowing :-o :-o (and make it easier/quicker to reply) Cheers, Dutch (no experience with bigger engine)
44 21/12/2004 17:35:49 gaillarry Valve Shims Anyone have a good source for valve shims? Yamaha is out of stock on some sizes!
45 02/03/2005 03:28:02 gaillarry Re: Valve Shims has them in stock.
46 19/04/2005 08:36:18 Feral Re: Valve Shims Got a guy here in oz that will make you what ever size you want. And there cheaper than yamaha. let me know if its of any use.
47 19/04/2005 14:01:27 Dutch Re: Valve Shims I doubt they can be made. FZ shims are bucket shaped, so cannot be grinded (unless you'd like to cut from the top, which I wouldn't recommend). Other bikes like afaik FZR1000 have flat shims, they can be grinded to make them thinner. Cheers, Dutch
49 11/01/2005 00:20:09 gaillarry Re: vibration @5000 rpm Change dealers! It shouldn't vibrate that bad. Something to check: - front and rear wheel alignment - front fork alignment does it vibrate when giving it throttle or while crusing at 5000 rpm?
50 13/01/2005 22:40:34 stevo1 Re: vibration @5000 rpm when giving it throttle.
51 17/01/2005 01:16:13 gaillarry Re: vibration @5000 rpm When you give the bike throttle there's more torgue on the chain/frame. Put the bike on the center stand, check the alignment of the rear wheel with the front wheel using a string. Also check the chain alignment with the swingarm. Other thing to check: - steering head bearings - front fork alignment
52 22/08/2006 12:33:41 wolfrt Re: vibration @5000 rpm Hi just braught a 86 FZ750 and came to this forum looking for a solution for the same thing. Vibration starts mildly about 3500 and increases to 4500 then goes by 5, seems totally rpm related, vibration is there weather throttle is on or off, but more pronounced under load. I can't see it being bearings alignment etc, as it occurs in all gears. i have an aftermarket pipe and thaught it might be a harmonic thing..? do you have a aftermarket pipe? mine'a a "lazer" brand (In Australia), poxy lookalike carbon thing it is, Anyway, any feedback would be greatly appreciated. PS: is it likley the engine is shot? as im slightly worried. Seems to go ok :-)
53 28/08/2006 02:23:46 mike760 Re: vibration @5000 rpm HI my bike did the same thing check your frames near and under and around where the tank. My bike vibrated when under throttle because there was a crack in the frame i bought the bike cheap as so i suspected it was in a crash so check i do know of bikes who frames had crack from the most simple of drops and check engine bolts cheers mike760
54 28/08/2006 13:03:47 Dutch Re: vibration @5000 rpm Hello Stevo1, Thanks for not shouting anymore :-) Mine tends to vibrate at 5 grand also. Perhaps needs the carbs syncronized again. Have sourced a carbtune, but not found the time / motivation to get the tank of and get the job done. :-?
55 01/03/2005 05:03:03 FZ750_NY Valve Shims Im not at my house to measure my value shim size (college) but i did check the clearence and it is way off, does anyone know what the exact size shims are in the 86' fz750? Like 7.49mm ect. i don't mean like 195. also does anyone know a cheap site i could purchase the shims from? i've searched around and found that they are fairly expensive like $5-6 a pop! thanks all
56 01/03/2005 10:11:08 Dutch Re: Valve Shims Hello NY, Follow the book mate, afraid there is no shortcut. Measure and note valve clearance Get cam shafts out Get buckets and shims out Note # on shims and calculate proper size See how far you get by moving the existing shims around Exchange the others for shims in the good size Assemble everything and check clearance again to be sure The shims are U shaped, so can't be grinded to size (the FZR shims are flat, they can be grinded, I know a person with the equimpment to do this). Each valve has a shim to give it the correct valve clearance so you have to get them out to see how thick they are. Yamaha charges a fortune for new shims (but if you see how much time the handling is its probably quite realistic), so if you can get them for 5-6 US$ (probably with trading in your excess shims) that's a very good deal. Most of the time the clearance gets less and less, so your dealer gets stuck with all the big ones and has to order the thinner ones over and over again. Good luck, work carefully and you can surely do the job yourselve. Just follow the Clymer and don't rush things. Cheers, Dutch
57 21/03/2005 01:50:46 FZ750_NY Re: Valve Shims I'm sorry, I wasn't clear enough. I have already measured the valves, so i know what size i need, but i was wondering what size the diameter of the shims are? I saw that Hot cams makes a box set of valve shims like 3 each in .05mm increments. do they make a box set of shims for the FZ 750?
58 19/05/2005 19:34:14 ripnils Cool header on 750 Hey all! I've had my 87 FZ750 for 3 weeks now and i've been loving it. Its my first bike and I'm stoked. What im not stoked on is what i discovered yesterday. After a short ride my brother said he thought the bike was lacking a bit of power, so what we did was spray a bit of water on each header to guage how hot they were. 3 of the 4 sizzled the water nicely but the 4th header (shifter side) was notably cooler. I'm concerned. Could be a fouled plug not firing hot or compression could be off in that cyclnder wich is a big prob. The bike has 49,000km on it and its been well looked after. Is this a common problem or am I jumping the gun here? Tonight I'm gonna pull the plugs and take a look.
59 21/05/2005 01:58:11 gaillarry Re: Cool header on 750 Check the plugs, could be a minor carb adjustment. When was the last time the carbs were synched? Its usually the little things that cause problems.
60 06/08/2005 15:59:19 FZ750_NY fz750 cam journal head Vs. fz700 cam journal head I noticed that one of my cylinders weren't firing and to make a long story short I broke one of the buckets that sits ontop of the valve and shim causing the valve to remain open . The part this "cam bucket" slides into is all eaten up and i tried to sand it down a little but but its screwed. I noticed a cam journal head on ebay from a 87 fz700. does anyone know if they are interchangeable? thanks matt
61 12/08/2005 22:51:27 gaillarry Re: fz750 cam journal head Vs. fz700 cam journal head The buckets are the same.
62 14/08/2005 20:47:51 FZ750_NY Re: fz750 cam journal head Vs. fz700 cam journal head I found out the hard way and bought the parts, they're both Interchangable: cam journal head, valve cover, buckets, shims ect
63 26/08/2005 16:57:39 reclaimer 1fn/2mg gearboxes Hi All, I have a 1fn engine that is 'shot', but the gearbox is excellent, i also have a 2mg engine in top nick, but the gearbox is finished. Can anybody tell me if the 1fn gearbox will fit in the 2mg engine?? I think it will....but someone may know better!Also, does anybody know the cdi number for the 2mg? :-o
64 29/08/2005 18:05:07 gaillarry Re: 1fn/2mg gearboxes yes, they'll fit. Check the yamaha parts fiche.
65 30/08/2005 00:02:52 reclaimer Re: 1fn/2mg gearboxes OK, thanks for that, I thought they might...where/how do I access the yam microfiche? Mind you, I do have parts manuals on cdrom, i'll need to check that carefully. :-D
66 31/08/2005 01:05:21 gaillarry Re: 1fn/2mg gearboxes You can access the on-line fiche at The original fiche (which I use) has technical notes on changes/modifications made to design/parts changes. On the original fiche is the model designations that parts will interchange with between years of manufacture. You can compare parts on your cd-rom with other FZ models. If Yamaha makes a minor change to a part they will give it a different number, but its the same working part.
67 31/08/2005 01:16:59 gaillarry Engine Rebuild One of my on-going projects is the rebuild of an 86 FZ750. The bike is in MINT shape with low mileage (23,000 kms) Problem is the crank rod bearings blew. I found it strange with such low mileage for the bearings to go. The previous owner did meticulous oil changes and maintained the bike at the dealer. After tearing the engine apart I found why the bearings blew. Lack of oil flow. The bike had been sitting for 9 years in storage. The p.o. did an oil change and the bike ran fine so he rode it for a year. I found the oil passages on the crankshaft and in some of the bearings were plugged with sludge. The old oil had solidified causing poor oil circulation. Be aware, if you buy a bike that has been sitting for years, flush the engine! I've started taking pics of the rebuild and will put up a web page for info.
68 04/09/2005 18:51:44 randomkyos Re: Engine Rebuild That is a great point i would of never thought about. I just bought a fz 750 motor with only 4000 miles on it thinking it would run perfectly. it is still in the project stage and i have not ridden it yet. But what would be the best way to flush the motor out? are there any teqniques you could suggest? Thanks Cyrus
69 06/09/2005 23:58:51 gaillarry Re: Engine Rebuild Drain the oil and put in a couple of litres of transmission fluid. Let it sit for a week. Drain the tranny fluid. Remove the oil pan and check for sludge buildup in the pan and around the crankshaft/rod areas. If you have access to a compressor-blow into the oil passages. There are commerical engine flush fluids available for cars but they are not recommended for motorcycles.
70 26/09/2005 00:18:32 mike760 Re: Engine Rebuild the oil used in the engine must not of been good quality for it to solidified must of been keep in the sun if you do have a bike that is not geting used change oil first if not to use it and this problem won't occur. i did a engine rebuild where sat for 2 years with no barrel or head on it cover with rags cover in oil and two tarps over it with oil drain place 1/2 litre of oil in for all the bearing tilt engine forward helps.
71 10/11/2005 19:17:47 buzz87 Re: Engine Rebuild Hi My name is Lee and you are about to rebuild your FZ removing sludge etc. I have a bearing to replace on the output shaft for the chain. The bearing cage collapsed and so pushed the oil seal out of its position peeing oil all over the floor but did not go in the engine so no probs there . Still runs sweet. I just am abit nervous of taking the engine apart. If its just a removal of the bottom casting and rplace no prb but someone told me that Yamaha in their wisdom put two bolts from the top into the castings so complete top removal is needed. Do you know anything about this ? Its on a C reg plate 1985. I have queries because the early ones had half fairings and mine had full fairing. Any help much appreciated Lee
72 10/11/2005 20:26:37 gaillarry Re: Engine Rebuild Lee: You have to split the engine. Bite the bullit and do it. You can verify the engine disassembly at: Click on the parts link.
73 11/11/2005 03:29:56 ganepeil Re: Engine Rebuild Lee, was into an 87 fzr1000 engine day before yesterday, and there were 3 main bearing bolts (8mm) located under cyl barrel, also a 6mm bolt in middle of cases which wasn't obvious as it was also holding down an additional tab. take your' time. the hardest part is getting the rear chain guide routed through the upper case then mateing the 3 shift forks to their corresponding trans gears. when its all right cases just drop together. luck G
74 18/09/2005 23:13:52 dogwat Transplant or Repair? I have a 1985 FZ 750... Long story, but i have bent 2 inlet valves on #1 cyclinder. I am toying with the idea of transplanting a 1995 FZR 1000 engine. Has anyone tried? Will if fit? Pitfalls? - any help gladly received
75 19/09/2005 18:53:16 gaillarry Re: Transplant or Repair? The 95 engine will fit but require some frame mods. Why not just replace the two valves, a lot cheaper.
76 27/09/2005 01:36:41 mike760 Re: Transplant or Repair? it be better to repair and if have low km's and can do the heads up while doing it, in australia it cost around $600-800 to do re-cond and modify slightly also check damage to pistons as this might also have effect on cost. i re-cond with an increase in exhaust valve, due to more fuel going in to save cost of labour you can take engine out and remove the head yourself hint record every piece that is remove and read up on manuel it show exactly which bolt to touch as the head is in three stage setup
77 28/09/2005 08:32:13 Dutch Re: Transplant or Repair? FZR1000 is an option, as is YZF750. On the other hand, FZ parts are quite abundand and cheap to find. You might find a complete good engine for little money or one that has damage to the 6th gear or bearing of the outgoing transmission axle for even less. Swapping engine is easy. Take care though a 1* has 2 pick-up, and 2* has single pick-up. In case of putting 2* engine in 1* bike or vise versa you also have to change cdi and a bit of wiring. Cheers, Dutch
78 06/11/2005 03:13:35 ganepeil Re: Transplant or Repair? Dutch,hve you been through re wire? any hints? G.
79 08/11/2005 15:11:45 Dutch Re: Transplant or Repair? No, my 3KS runs strong as is, the 1AE also kept the original mill and the 1FT (Canada) got a 1AE (USA) heart. So no probs there. Search logs of bbs of, most likely you'll find usefull info there. Cheers, Dutch
80 09/11/2005 02:33:31 ganepeil Re: Transplant or Repair? Dutch, thks for the back, will chk out bbs, have been studying schematics. and figure by using 1000's box should be a plug in. still have to chase compatibilities for start lock-outs and fuel pump/res relays. will share what I figure out. G
81 08/12/2005 03:48:49 dogwat Re: Transplant or Repair? Hi guys, the FZR1000G 1995 goes in like a ...!! no probs.. the exhaust, exup, needs to be welded, no biggie. as with the Radiator, a few brackets and she is in. electrics.... well well i am stumped. The engine came complete with loom, CDI...the whole 9 yards. But...But... on trying to fire it up I am only getting one spark. then whirr whirr. I swapped the cdi, checked every flipping I read that the 95 1000G came with a ignition Anti-theft. there is a wire that come from the Ign switch to the cdi, and someone mentioned that there is a diode ?? in the switch that is the "key" for the Comp/CDI. Has anyone heard this? how do i re-set the CDI, how do i by-pass the Anti-theft? any help PLEASE
82 11/12/2005 23:16:38 mike760 Re: Transplant or Repair? do you have the wiring diagram if so send to me the theft doesn't get reset it just required power to one of the inports as to which one i need the diagram or see the bike there idea see if you can find the bike and see how it setup also check you coils and picks up
83 12/12/2005 15:56:33 ganepeil Re: Transplant or Repair? Mike, when you get this figured out, give me an up. I've a fellow in nz with same problem. G.
84 13/12/2005 01:24:26 ganepeil Re: Transplant or Repair? Mike.dogwat may be my guy from nz.additional info. upon swapping harness, cdi and cycling ign. tach.needle does sweep, and exup motor cycles. but upon pushing starter button getts 1 spark only, makes reference to anti-theft ign. switch 4na-83501-01-00 which purportdly uses a diode to cdi.sorry but I have no current manual/schematic and even if I did it probly wouldn't address the diodes function. am at a loss as to how such a anti-theft device would function short of requiring multiple connections to hot-wire.still thinkin' G.
85 14/12/2005 03:49:47 ganepeil Re: Transplant or Repair? Eurethra!finally finished re-building wire harness. {stock config. with all new connectors and about 20 ft of new/old proper color code/guage wire.) loom fitted to chassis and secured with zip-ties to hide almost all. had to re-locate 1 ground wire and 2 coil output wires from 750's harness to match 87 1000's cdi and got 14 and 23 ports backwards on 1st try. backfire woke-up people in parts dept. after reversing orange and grey wires bike fired right it was a balmy 50 degrees out had to check out 6 speed trans. sweet.only took 10 mi.test ride to chk for leaks and drivability. happy guy. put bike on dyno (1997 dynojet) since another tech had it warmed up already. and was disapointed to see I only made 122hp though curve was smooth.still, that's a marked improvement from the 78hp I had from the 750 mill. as bike is a street ride, think I'll wait for warmer weather before looking for more, in all gear accel on dyno w/stock 750 gearing shifting at rev. limiter only dropped eng revs @3'000 rpm ie twistit to 11.5 shift and catch at 8.5 and next gear was about 3 heartbeats away mates said it sounded impressive. even if this bike does'nt match present sportmax's I'm happy. G.
86 17/12/2005 04:03:33 ganepeil Re: Transplant or Repair? dogwat, any luck? have been chasing my tail checking on related schematics one for yzf1000-r1 k {c} shows a relay piggy backed to the starter cut off relay which has two transistors and a resistor which feed a "starter Q switch" which grounds a blue wire to ground in run position. as it appears to control starter circuit only may or may not be a lead. on same schematic shows power lead from main sw l/y (dark blue yellow tracer to cdi) does your ign sw /harness have said wires? and if so ign on power exiting ign. sw. and at cdi? also, does your' fuel pump cycle? ie run 3/4 sec. after turn on key, flip kill sw. on / off. one more request;. pull in clutch lever or jump cl sw. and chk for continuse spark. {starter relay/fuel pump relay} has total of four transistors ans 2 relays . still thinking hayseed.
87 18/12/2005 06:56:29 mike760 Re: Transplant or Repair? i been busy guys but i say the ignition switch it could also be getting no signal, to spark the other three cyclinder i heard that the anti theft doesn't even give one spark i research a bit that the ignition keylock, may have something do with anti theft as it was the keylock unit was the actual anti theft see if you can get you hands on one the keylock haven't look to see how it works because i never seen a 1995 FZR1000 see how you go
88 26/09/2005 04:03:36 mike760 FZ750 Con-rods any-one know of where some higher grade con-rods can be found or know of another engine con-rods that can be used instead of original ones. reason i work my engine over to gain approx of 35% (140HP) more HP but don't think the rods can handle the extra power, i have 1985 FZ750 engine.
89 26/09/2005 20:47:29 gaillarry Re: FZ750 Con-rods FZR750 Con rods will work, although I don't know if they are any better/worse than stock FZ750.
90 30/09/2005 09:35:25 mike760 Re: FZ750 Con-rods carrillo makes them for FZ750 from there are two lengths part number FZ750 109.5mm ................CAR 1025-302 FZ750 113.5mm ................CAR FZ75-302 waiting from supplier for more info and cost
91 01/10/2005 14:03:02 gaillarry Re: FZ750 Con-rods Keep us posted on the availability of the cams, I may be interested in a set.
92 03/10/2005 10:24:46 mike760 Re: FZ750 Con-rods the connecting rods are the longer 113.5mm for the fz750 the FZR750 uses the shorter rods 109.5mm. the avalibilty from order about 6 weeks not keep in stock but will produce on order in aus they are dear, good if you are increasing engine Hp about $279 each or $1116 a set of 4 connecting rods
93 03/10/2005 15:30:14 gaillarry Re: FZ750 Con-rods For that amount of money it's easier to pickup another engine.
94 03/10/2005 23:12:07 mike760 Re: FZ750 Con-rods may be easyier to get another engine but with the change to the FZR rod, you find compression drops, not what i want, i still looking, if i find anything i post it up also previous price was in AUS dollars engines are also hard to find in good condition i got my motor in bits, the first one broke two rods hence looking for better rod i may be force since i found cracks in two current rods
95 04/10/2005 16:40:20 gaillarry Re: FZ750 Con-rods Here are a couple of links on aftermarket rods, but I suspect they are very expensive!
96 07/10/2005 02:00:05 mike760 Re: FZ750 Con-rods got a reply from arrow precision on the H conrod in steel. the cost of the rods are dear if one person buy at a time but for every set each rod become 10-20 pounds cheaper cost will also be on design simple measurements the starting price for one set was 220-240 pounds and for 4 sets was 170-190 pounds and so on idealy 10 set would be very reason price able to do around 130-150 pounds otherwise still dear on own also 25% must be upfront for the rods
97 29/09/2005 20:59:08 gaillarry Common Engine Replacement parts I'm replacing the crank rod bearings on my 85. Any other common parts that I should replace while the engine is apart?
98 30/09/2005 07:55:36 mike760 Re: Common Engine Replacement parts may want to check all gearbox if you down that far and do all the seals and bearing as well
99 15/10/2005 03:38:57 ganepeil re engine swap Tony. Hi,am a new guy and note last new post is over a year old on this subject. perhaps you've gone on to new projects and no longer drop[ in. have a couple questions if you're still involved. say hi and i"ll be back . thks Gane
100 24/10/2005 07:26:46 mike760 HP power has anyone try also to increase there hp without a turbo if so what have you done and what hp you get out
101 24/10/2005 07:44:46 mike760 NEW Carburettors system hi guys just look in magazine today and found new system that act like injection mapping it call a flo commander design for fuel / air management system for carburettors easy to install it might help with those flat spot at around 3000RPM i look into it to see how much and so on site
102 27/10/2005 02:35:51 gaillarry Re: NEW Carburettors system Cost is $139.95 (US). I checked the mfg web site and it appears they have done a lot of research. The do not list a setup for the FZ750 but I suspect the YZF750 will work. Does it really work? I'll find out - I ordered one today from my dealer ($165 Canadian)
103 27/10/2005 21:18:04 reclaimer Re: NEW Carburettors system Hi all, Just to let you know,a seller at ebay UK is selling a pair of twin choke webber carbs for the fz750 at ぷ0 at the moment!! Cheers, Reclaimer
104 28/10/2005 05:50:34 mike760 Re: NEW Carburettors system just a check they do require a change in air restricker valves to add the hoses on for the adjustment those if you run the yzf750 carb's be no problem they adding bikes to list may have the bike on there form not on the website i suggest they are waiting for people to show the market to them as a few buyers come along a new system set up for the bike and made for sale make sure to let them know what you running a (stage 3 jet kit)and so-on
105 28/10/2005 19:41:47 gaillarry Re: NEW Carburettors system I have a set of YZF carbs I bought off EBay. Haven't tried them yet, but should prove interesting come spring.
106 11/12/2005 23:19:34 mike760 Re: NEW Carburettors system was there much play around when you fitted the YZF carb,s what year did it come from and how the kit on it let us know larry
107 24/02/2006 22:36:02 buzz87 Re: NEW Carburettors system There is a guy selling Flo Commanders on ebay for 165USD plu shipping. The ones he has listed are for the Keihin flatslides, though. Here is the link:
108 25/10/2005 15:01:09 blfz750 which oil? What is the correct engine oil for my '89 FZ750? I've read somewhere that synthetic is bad. Just had oil and filter change, used "synthetic fortified" now the clutch slips if I wind it open when cold(ish)
109 26/10/2005 06:24:15 mike760 Re: which oil? i found normal mineral oil with 10 to 40W on it will do just about all the bikes synthetic don't work well with wet clutch bikes unless it state it for that particlular purpose for the 89 model most likl used mineral oil a general rule what goes in first stay with that type for the life of the bike
110 27/10/2005 01:57:34 ganepeil re which oil? I agree and differ with mikes note. corect oil according to service manual is SAE20/40 {warm weather) or SAE10/30 (cold) of course yamaha recommendsits own "yamalube" which was and probly still is repackaged Kendal a mineral base oil with a number of additives to increase the shear resistsance of its polymers. unlike automotive oils which primarily lube moving parts, pump up plane bearings and carry away heat, a motorcycle oil is also designed to go through transmission gears which cut the long molecules (polymers} and drop oil visosity.synthetic oils are extreemly resistant to sheering and are very tenatious thats why they advertise extended oil change intervals. one drawback to this is that oil carries lots of contaminates,the natural byproducts of the internal combustion engine. and by leaving them in your engine you sbject it to corrosion from said crud.more frequent oil changes eleminate said crud and since a quality oil starts out acid (ph balance) and goes to base it also cleans your bikes internals as well as lubricating (ET ALL) next, yes non-specific synthetics can cause clutch slip, its just doing its job. abbett a little too well.teflon additives are notorious for causing cl. slip as well. now to my differing w/mike. during break-in rings need to seat to cyl. walls and cams and holders need to get freindly (mate)to each other. one reason for the 500 mi. oil change on new bikes is to get rid of the manufacturors "break in " oil, another is to get rid of the misc. schrapnel accrued by pieces breaking in to each other.I use low grade oil for break in and switch to a higher grade for regular prefference for my street bikes is castrol gtx for turbo motors, and yamalube 4 r in my racebikes, the 4 r is a mineral/synthetic blend and I've experianced no cl. issuses. also in a crunch I can add mineral oils without fear of oil breakdown (straight synthetics fight sometimes) damn I'm long winded sorry G
111 28/10/2005 03:46:33 ganepeil re new carberators system am curious as to what this product is, can you tell me what changes are? thks G.
112 28/10/2005 06:02:31 mike760 Re: re new carberators system the changes well there are two control circuit one is air and the other is fuel it make the carb be in sync the whole time same amount of fuel enter into each cylinder and same for the fuel to apply this where fuel and air restrickers are replace with a hose adapter and which lead back to the controller and it adjust for each cylinder goes a little like that PS for replying there is a little reply button down on the right of the message that you looking at, just in case you didn't know
113 29/10/2005 02:55:53 ganepeil Re: re new carberators system mike, thks for up, am foggy on air / fuel restrictors. can understand how sync could be modified through intake /balance ports at intake manifolds or are we talking about the ports in the bell mouth of the carb bodies ie the pilot and main jet air intakes thks G.
114 31/10/2005 06:53:00 mike760 Re: re new carberators system we are talking about the main air jet port say if looking down you carb's with the air box off you see a spot down below where the main air jet is, this is what helps with air fuel ratio and the sync of the carb's
115 31/10/2005 15:48:44 ganepeil Re: re new carberators system mike760, thank you, appreciate the feedback. G
116 03/11/2005 02:24:13 mike760 RPM dead spot just started engine with stage 3 kit and vance and hines exhuast the dead spot has gone or for little fraction on what used to be there the head got work done, changes were increase in bore size to 2nd oversize (760cc) and increase in exhuast size has greatly demishes the dead spot all to do now is fit a flo -commander unit see what that can reduce and put it in the frame and build bike up i get a dyno test when finish (sometime next year) i post a dyno graph up on the power curve
117 03/11/2005 03:59:18 ganepeil Re: RPM dead spot mike. where is ;dead spot; ie rpm? under load? affected by choke ? looking for clues G.
118 04/11/2005 00:36:39 mike760 Re: RPM dead spot it the dead spot i got now is at 3200rpm under a small load we test the engine under, choke doesn't seem to affect it but the larger exhuast valve limits how much fuel is drawn into the chamber due to the overlap meaning if more exhuast exit before overlap less energy to draw more fuel hence no flooding the dead spot is cause by too much fuel entering the chamber for what it can burn you will also see that the air to fuel ratio is way off at this point i was also considering the fuel pump pressure can also affect the running of the engine. on some vechicles the fuel pump runs lean setup for down low and a more rich setup for high rpm i think at this known rpm, i believe the fuel pump starts to work hence too much fuel enters due to higher fuel pressure also note i was running a test setup without fuel pump but i compare to previous results of the engine before modification there is large difference also test to see if motor running before placement in frame don't want to find out if there a problem in the frame easy to start outside of frame
119 04/11/2005 00:38:14 mike760 Re: RPM dead spot it the dead spot i got now is at 3200rpm under a small load we test the engine under, choke doesn't seem to affect it but the larger exhuast valve limits how much fuel is drawn into the chamber due to the overlap meaning if more exhuast exit before overlap less energy to draw more fuel hence no flooding the dead spot is cause by too much fuel entering the chamber for what it can burn you will also see that the air to fuel ratio is way off at this point i was also considering the fuel pump pressure can also affect the running of the engine. on some vechicles the fuel pump runs lean setup for down low and a more rich setup for high rpm i think at this known rpm, i believe the fuel pump starts to work hence too much fuel enters due to higher fuel pressure also note i was running a test setup without fuel pump but i compare to previous results of the engine before modification there is large difference also test to see if motor running before placement in frame don't want to find out if there a problem in the frame easy to start outside of frame
120 04/11/2005 00:39:51 mike760 Re: RPM dead spot it the dead spot i got now is at 3200rpm under a small load we test the engine under, choke doesn't seem to affect it but the larger exhuast valve limits how much fuel is drawn into the chamber due to the overlap meaning if more exhuast exit before overlap less energy to draw more fuel hence no flooding the dead spot is cause by too much fuel entering the chamber for what it can burn you will also see that the air to fuel ratio is way off at this point i was also considering the fuel pump pressure can also affect the running of the engine. on some vechicles the fuel pump runs lean setup for down low and a more rich setup for high rpm i think at this known rpm, i believe the fuel pump starts to work hence too much fuel enters due to higher fuel pressure also note i was running a test setup without fuel pump but i compare to previous results of the engine before modification there is large difference also test to see if motor running before placement in frame don't want to find out if there a problem in the frame easy to start outside of frame
121 04/11/2005 00:42:06 mike760 Re: RPM dead spot it the dead spot i got now is at 3200rpm under a small load we test the engine under, choke doesn't seem to affect it but the larger exhuast valve limits how much fuel is drawn into the chamber due to the overlap meaning if more exhuast exit before overlap less energy to draw more fuel hence no flooding the dead spot is cause by too much fuel entering the chamber for what it can burn you will also see that the air to fuel ratio is way off at this point i was also considering the fuel pump pressure can also affect the running of the engine. on some vechicles the fuel pump runs lean setup for down low and a more rich setup for high rpm i think at this known rpm, i believe the fuel pump starts to work hence too much fuel enters due to higher fuel pressure also note i was running a test setup without fuel pump but i compare to previous results of the engine before modification there is large difference also test to see if motor running before placement in frame don't want to find out if there a problem in the frame easy to start outside of frame
122 04/11/2005 00:44:42 mike760 Re: RPM dead spot mike, the fuel pump on the fz has an initial input from the ecu, when the ing. is turned on (w/kill run) it recieves a initial 12v signal @ provide fuel to float chambers. at that time power to the fuel pump shuts off. if you listen to the fuel pump while cycling the ign.key you should be able to hear the pump run, and then as fuel pressure comes up the pump cycle should slow down. ie bdrrr tic tic tic stop.thats because there is a presure sensitive diaphram in the fuel pump which tells it that operating fuel pressure has been reached and it can take a rest. while running, power is constant to fuel pump and diaphram is in a cyle of maintaning the 3 or 4 psi required to stay ahead of the demands of the carb float level as determined by the opening and closing of the float valves which are determined by the cut-off of the collective float heights. in other words the amount of fuel recieved by the metering circuts of the carbs (pilot jets main jets and emulsion tubes) are controled by the float valves, not by the fuel pump. since bog is only at 1 rpm chances are that there is wear in your needle nozzles and/or needles where the bike is operated for 90+ % of your' riding.try dropping your needle a couple of clips and see if it doesnt change the flat spot and look at the top of the nozzel. it should be round, worn nozzles become oblong.changing the intake track ie bigger valves would change intake volumne and put worn parts in different relations to each other. and possibly change bog slightly. if you can get access to a ega machine, 1st check co and hc reading a idle, optimum is about 3pct co w/500ppm hc (or less) and >.5% at cruise w/@200 (OR LESS) HC IF AT BOG SPOT CO IS HIGH over 3% look to worn/miss adusted needles,worn nozzles, torn vac. slide diaphrams or main jets laying in bottom of flloat bowls. uh sorry will shut up now.G.
123 04/11/2005 00:47:25 mike760 Re: RPM dead spot gaillarry. thks for the feedbck, have a couple options I'm working on.contacted maier plastics, they werent intrested in ree molding- said chk oe or hit wreckers- same for lockhart product search from yamaha indicates 86 fairing avail in us shorty frg lowers avail from japan. lh side pnl avail from japan rh side pnl not avail. either us or japan (thought not disc)if i thiught I could get all the plastic in factory colors new I'd step up to the pump.tho I don't care for color scheme current prices at Co.Po 1fm-y283g-00-1x body ft upper485.57 lh lower 1ae2835u-00ge 130.52 rh same side cover 231.40 lh same rh na. fairing inserts 51.22 but not avail.find it daunting that I should spent this amt of time of time and labor only to come up short on cosmetics
124 06/11/2005 23:30:06 mike760 Re: RPM dead spot thank for that i do believe the engine had gone through testing with the ega Machine as i ask for the work though never added fuel pump until yesterday need to build jig for testing with the fuel pump on testing just letting you know i getting all this done at very good mate rates so normal testing of this would cost about 30 times what i getting it for.
125 07/11/2005 01:17:15 ganepeil Re: RPM dead spot mike, luck to you. drop a note as you progress. G.
126 18/11/2005 13:00:15 mike760 Re: RPM dead spot just finish the running tests with the fuel pump on the jig work better than before got my desire HP of 142.2 BHP out of the FZ750 not bad lot of work and money i see when i finish the bike what the rear wheel HP is should be around 130 or up next see if they make a flo-commander for the FZ750 carb's
127 09/11/2005 03:08:24 ganepeil trans swap hi, I'm back. finished re ass-emble engine today, clutch basket and hub happy with phaser main axle.took longer than I had anticipated to shim valves and time cams,and oil pump fought me (wanted to bind)but feel good about mill. shifts sweet, and cam-crank timing spot on. requires a bit of effort to turn crank with bolt and pal nut on l/h side of crank, but experianced same on a 91 fzr1000 last week. plan on fitting 1000 eng. to 750 chassis tommorrow.G.
128 09/11/2005 17:37:50 gaillarry Re: trans swap Why would the crank be hard to turn? I just rebuilt a Honda VT1100 engine (repaired tranny) and it turns over easily. Did you put new crank/rod bearings in?
129 10/11/2005 04:17:27 Weiner127 Re: trans swap Hmmm, I assume you used the 1000 clutch basket I've never done the tranny swap so i don't know what it could be. Did you install new main bearings, if so did you plastiguage them?
130 10/11/2005 06:19:23 ganepeil Re: trans swap Hi Guys, nice to know you're out there. yes I used the 1000 clutch basket and hub, in fact all the inneredsare from the thou motor, as a guess I'd say it took 20- 25 ft lbs to roll over crank. no, all bearings were as orig. and of good color so no I didn't plastiguage. starter motor spins engine easily,thou motor fit nicely in 750 frame as per all imput,to include radiator hose routing (minus 1 tube mount at front of cyl. but still secure and of better routing than on fzr1000. hung chain and spun rear wheel/w @ 1" slack to center c/s spkt. req. @ 1mm spacer to center after mkt cs/spkt' out from output shaft (still allowed good penetration for locktab washer) this after fitting gsxr 1100 rear wheel and centering in swingarm. sweet. G.
131 10/11/2005 08:53:53 Dutch Re: trans swap Nice work ganepeil. Only problem you will find is that experts see it's the 1000 mill by looking at the 1-5 gear numbers :-) To avoid this Rifleman (see recent post BBS of has put the 1000 top on a 750 bottom. Evil :lol: :lol: Cheers, Dutch
132 11/11/2005 03:57:05 ganepeil Re: trans swap Dutch, wasn't even thinking about it at the time, but since the thou engine's counter shaft cover had been carved away to nothing but clutch slave bosses (ex race bike) I slipped on the original 750 cover. fits seamlessly. in fact asside from the casting #on the cyl,the eng.# and the shape of the intake manifolds I would be hard pressed to see the difference myself. of course the wheels and brakes are a dead give-away. Here in the states the fz was discontinued in 87. still had the 16/18 wheels w/ventilated discs.G.
133 14/11/2005 11:26:41 mike760 Re: trans swap sound like the spark plugs still in, or maybe clutch was moving and gears to the gears pressume be fit into frame
134 14/11/2005 11:29:21 mike760 Re: trans swap don't you wish you had a new cassette type gearbox one come out another goes in from the side of the bike
135 14/11/2005 18:43:15 ganepeil Re: trans swap Mike. Imagine the leap of faith I had to make in buying trans. then tearing into running motor not knowing if it was going to fit.G
136 15/11/2005 07:44:00 mike760 Re: trans swap a lot of faith is needed any way how close is the gear ratio to FZ 750 gearbox
137 16/11/2005 03:30:16 ganepeil Re: trans swap Mike, identical,in fact was hedging my bet on purchacing 2nd trans. since main axle shaft for fz is nla figured that a backup was cheap at $125.00 so now have a spare 750 eng complete and a 5 speed that can go either way. TOYS! G.
138 16/11/2005 06:27:10 mike760 Re: trans swap just a thought i know the gearsbox can be change but the horse power and torque has gone up to that of the thou engine does the gearbox be able to handle the extra power and torque in other words the gears and shaft usally has a number on them say 9, 12 which lead to strength scales does the gears have numbers on them if so what are they
139 17/11/2005 03:16:31 ganepeil Re: trans swap Mike, sorry, wasn't aware to look. But as I worked 750 pretty hard on track doubt I'll have any problem on street. difference in hp between motors is @ 50 ponies tho tire size went from 160 to 180 and the 750 would spin up the rear when ridden agressivly (mostly exiting turns while tipped hard.]will post when I've had a chance to put the screws to 'er. G.
140 17/11/2005 09:14:42 mike760 Re: trans swap not to worry it just indicator on how much the could take how the gear ratio's on the 700 gear box are they close to the 750 just curious
141 06/11/2005 03:06:54 ganepeil motor swap 750/1000 will be introducing 88 fzr 1000 w single induction pickup to 86 (dual p/u) chasis . plan on using 1000's cdi anyone familiar w ith wiring mods or woukd you be intrested in my progress?
142 10/11/2005 22:21:39 reclaimer Total engine strip?? Hi All, I need to get to the gearbox on my I really have to strip the whole engine, or can I split the crankcases to get at it? Not happy about removing barrels, etc., If I have to 'total strip', then so be it! cheers, geoff
143 10/11/2005 23:32:55 mike760 Re: Total engine strip?? the barrels and heads must come off to split the case barrels heads are easy to remove the head has three stages rocker cover valves and springs after removing the rocker cover you can remove the head in one pieace after the cam are remove there 4 outside bolt and 4 inside the head don't split the head and take note where each shim and lifter goes i did it wrong and you won't be happy if you don't do it right gaskets are easy to do once there check everything out oil paths, bearing etc just some info what you want is MV agusta or honda with a cassette gearbox they made a gearbox that can be removed from a side of engine so not spliting required and allows changes to gears and too bad other bikes don't do it
144 10/11/2005 23:54:25 reclaimer Re: Total engine strip?? Hi Mike, Thanks for that, common-sense dictates to me that I should do a total strip, laziness/fear was holding me up!!!I got a full gasket set for GBPぶ0.00, so that was good. I just built a new workshop/shed with all the gear I need, so I have time (Blow the wife!!)I've starting stripping the bike, lot's to do as well as the engine, but I love this machine, so I'll be happy when it is finished by spring next year. Geoff
145 11/11/2005 01:02:58 mike760 Re: Total engine strip?? if you have a manual use it i lost mine for month but did work, but you can get lost where the other bolt or nut etc for working on the engine build a steel jig up to hold the engine while doing work on make sure there room underneath for jacking motor back into place make life easy i use caster wheel on it to move it around the place to only need one point at ether end if you built the jig good i built mine after removeal try to do before removeal
146 05/12/2005 06:16:09 mike760 Re: Total engine strip?? how has you strip gone so far
147 04/01/2006 02:48:26 gaillarry 88 FZ750 Engine I'm looking at buying the 1988 engine listed for sale here. One question will an 88 engine fit a 85 frame? I suspect it will.
148 04/01/2006 03:12:21 ganepeil Re: 88 FZ750 Engine Larry, Through my wanderings both here and in the "forum" site I've seen references of not only 700,and 750 motor swaps, but of 1000 motors through 91. My experiance with install if 87 1000 was seamless mechanically, and only required the single pickup cdi and re-org. of a couple wires to make run. radiator hose routing was different, but not difficult as I had parts from both to work with, if the 88 frame was still steel, you should't even have to deal with that.luck G.
149 04/01/2006 06:14:38 carnageZ28 Help me get my 86' FZ750 Running Right. This is lengthy, but I am trying to rule out everything I know is fine. A little about the bike: It was given too two people who never got it running, I got it, it needed tons of little stuff, and now its running, but with problems. Only mods as far as I know is that the stock air box was removed and replaced with 4 independant K&Ns on top of each carbuerator. Also, the stock mufflers, the packing is either removed, or burned out, cause its absurdly loud. It does have the stock jetting for the two outside cylinders, the two inside cylinders were brought up from a 100 main jet to a 105. It is possible other serious engine mods may have been done however, as there is permatex showing at the cylinder base and head gaskets, and every fastener on the bike is tied up with that race wire stuff. It also has a Fox Shox rear suspension set up. Here are my problems, followed by what I do know for sure about the engine/carbs: Stock Jetting is 105 MJ on #1, 100MJ on #2. So the two inside cylinders were richened. Stock Main Air Jet in all 4, 65. Stock size Needle jet Stock Pilot Jets in all 4, 15 The pilot screw is preset and can't be adjusted? PROBLEM #1 When I wind it out, it will crackle, and missfire good from about 6500 to 8000RPM's, maybe 8500RPM. From there to redline, it pulls like a beast, no misses, no stuttering nothing. It runs from 8500ish maybe 9K up to a little past the 10,500RPM redline perfectly, and really strong. PROBLEM #2 Reading the stock tach(Which is notorious to be off at low RPM use), I cant get the idle to go below about 1800RPM's. I was shooting for around a 1000rpm idle. There is one main screw that adjusts the idle speed for all 4 of the carburetors. If I turn it up, the idle instantly will increase proportionally as I crank it up. No matter what though, it will not idle lower than 1800RPMs. If I back the idle adjustment screw out, it will idle down for several seconds then die. It just will not idle lower than 1800RPMs without stalling out. PROBLEM #2B With it idling high, it runs really hot in traffic if it is idling for a few minutes once its warmed up. The thermostat switch is functioning correctly, actually, its brand new I had to replace it, and kicks the electric fans on once it is up to temperature. As far as I know the carbs are synchronized correctly. I did not disconnect the bodies of the 4 carbs when I rebuilt/cleaned them so that I wouldnt screw that up. Also, if you open the throttle, all 4 carbs do open simultaniously. If you check them with calipers, as soon as the throttle opens, there was less than .005's difference in the distance the blades opened up. Additionally, there is NO hesistation when you blip the throttle. It revs instantly, and smoothly. So I believe synchronization is not the problem. Also, the float levels were all checked as well and are dead on. The jets and everything are spotless. I cleaned out the carburetor very well. And I do know what I am doing cleaning them out, all the little idle passageways and such. Could it be that the stock jetting is too lean? It is possible this bike had more modifications done to it. My cousin never even rode it. He was going to fix it and didnt. The guy who had it before him never rode it, and the guy before that seems to have had it set up for racing. It has the Fox Shox rear suspension on it, and about every nut, bolt, or other fastener, the head is drilled out, with race wire tying them off so that nothing can come loose. I think the bike was raced but I am not positive. So it is entirely possible the the bike has cams or something and was not rejetted. After all, the exhaust baffels were apparently removed. And a balance pipe was welded in right after the collectors. It does still have stock pipes and mufflers though, their just VERY loud. Do you guys think I should invest is a good jet kit for it ? I know the stock tach is known to not be very accurate at low RPMs but you can clearly tell from hearing it that the engine is running too fast at idle. The pilot screw is preset, and the pilot jet is stock. So is the main air jet. There is NOT a seperate pilot air jet on these carbs. One thing I did notice is that it is supposed to make peak power at 10,500RPMs, and at 11,000 I noticed that it was still pulling every bit as hard as it was at peak power. I expected it to be more peaky than it feels. Power doesnt seem to want to fade. It is still pulling so it is possible that there may be other mods that I am not aware of that are done to it such as P&P the heads, or camming it or something? Afterall, someone was interested in performance if they bought a 800$ rear suspension adjustable shock for it. I really would like to get all the bugs worked out of this thing. So anyone have any idea what could be wrong with it? As far as it overheating, as a temporary fix I may just hard wire the fans so they are always on when the key is on to help keep it from gettin so hot until I get the idle thing worked out.
150 04/01/2006 16:03:09 gaillarry Re: Help me get my 86' FZ750 Running Right. It sounds like it was used as a race bike that's been heavily modified. I've put permatex on the valve cover gasket but never on the base gasket. Although the jets have been changed - were the needles also changed? I believe you've got two problems: - exhaust has been modfied, probably the baffles punched out, giving you a free flowing exhaust - the jetting is way off. I suspect you don't like the loud exhaust, so first I would replace the exhaust then install a K&N jet kit. There's no use jetting the bike with the current exhaust if your'e going to replace it. Check Ebay for jet kits and used pipes. As to the overheating, the FZ does run hot, did you change the fanstat switch? Keep us posted.
151 04/01/2006 19:09:23 carnageZ28 Re: Help me get my 86' FZ750 Running Right. I dont mind the exhaust, actually it sounds pretty awesome when it winds out. I do not know if the needle's have been changed. I think their factory but I am not sure? I replaced the fan thermostat switch with a brand new one, the old one wasnt kicking the fans on? I guess it corroded or something from sitting for the 6 years, at least, that I knew of that it sat. As far as them running hot, this gets to the point if I am sitting in traffic that it wants to stall out as soon as you give it throttle from overheating. Then if it does stall out, you have to wait a minute or two before the fans cool it enough to start it back up. The gauge is NOT in the red area, but its still pretty damn hot. As for figuring out how to jet it, do you have any recomendations for how to figure out which main jets, and needle jets I need? I really would like to get it to idle down some but am not sure what I would have to do to get it right? Thanks by the way for the info.
152 04/01/2006 19:29:39 gaillarry Re: Help me get my 86' FZ750 Running Right. The rad may have a stock thermostat. It may be stuck or you need one with a lower temperature. A thermostat with a lower tem will turn the fan on sooner. When you cleaned the carbs did you find shims on the needles? you can save a lot of jet changes/adjustments by getting a jet kit and start fresh.
153 05/01/2006 02:03:18 Weiner127 Re: Help me get my 86' FZ750 Running Right. I'd say it's way too lean with K+n's and the pipe. I ran stock jetting with a wide open supertrapp (no baffles or guts) and was fine, they're a little rich stock with the 105's but those filters are hard to dial in and you may have to go up alot in jet sizes. If you search Dynojet it'll give you specs for there kits, may set you on the right track. If you're capable I'd tear the motor down and see just what you're dealin with. Sounds like a race motor sure, may have heavy internal mods. :-D
154 05/01/2006 03:41:58 ganepeil Re: Help me get my 86' FZ750 Running Right. CARNAGE,Since you have been there and done that will be breif. return to stock jetting ie 105 mains to cyls 1&4 100 to 2&3, yamaha did this for temp.control. 2nd popping /crackling usually indicates lean jetting, since this is in mid-range rec. raise needles, if fixed(ie only 1 notch at needle top) install washers (1 per needle)under clip thus raising needle in relation to piston. if needles have multiple notches, simply lower clip 1 slot rec.all 4 same, and 1 at a time.finally idle problem three usual culprits. 1st air leak. are all 4 carb sync screws in place?Tight?washers?intake boots in good shape?carbs seated in boots?bands tight? can check for air leaks by spraying wd40 carb cleaner or brake clean around area between carb bodies and cyl with bike running and listenening for rpm increase or drop.2nd all 4 carbs have adjustable fuel screws.they were adjusted and plugged 20 years ago and even the most thourogh spray can have iffy results.between the float bowls and intake throats to the cyl head on each carb body you'll see a bronz or alluminim plug. underneath these plugs are screw adjusters wich are the pilot air/fuel screws. be careful, aluminum plugs are only about 1mm deep while bronze are 3 or 4 deep and if you drill too deep its possibile to catch an fuel screw and drive it so deep as to damage carb body
155 05/01/2006 06:04:14 carnageZ28 Re: Help me get my 86' FZ750 Running Right. Ok thanks alot. I appriciate it. The carbs are syncronized. Also, I did check for vacuum leaks but found nothing. I really think all my problems are jetting related but who knows? I think I am going to buy a jet kit for it, and start out from scratch, that way I know what I do and do not have. As far as tearing the motor down to see what I have, I may do that, but if I do it wont be until spring. I do think I am going to pull all 4 of the carbs off though, rejet it, and give it a try. Although I probably wont be doing this for a couple of weeks since I just threw some cash into the valve train of my camaro, christmas, and about 4 or 5 birthdays in 2 weeks. Its been crazy lately. Still though, I want this thing running right for the summer. Its a blast to ride when theres no traffic and I can wind it out.
156 05/01/2006 06:05:55 carnageZ28 Re: Help me get my 86' FZ750 Running Right. O yea, and its possible the thermostat is sticking a little? I never really thought to check that since I figured the overheating was pretty much all from the crappy idle. Thanks though. Its something Ill be looking at.
157 10/01/2006 19:53:47 mike760 Re: Help me get my 86' FZ750 Running Right. hi to G's and Z28 the old carb's are getting old i just refitted my FZ750 with yzf carb赫 off the 97 model it solve my power that i was lacking at 10000 rpm since i had heaving modified my engine to components stronger and lighter i got a extra 10hp on top of previous result and gave a much smoother transition across the board of the rpm range and i fitted a flo commander kit on it made the engine sound much nice up the top end i also got a some changes made by vance and hines pipe to go for the bike G there are some other changes that help with power but need to find someone who can custom make the parts for mate rates. any i found it was cheap to get to get yzf than fix up old carb's mike
158 10/01/2006 20:44:16 gaillarry Re: Help me get my 86' FZ750 Running Right. I have set of YZF carbs on the shelf, never thought of using them! Did you have to rejet them or use them stock?
159 22/01/2006 10:23:59 Dutch Re: Help me get my 86' FZ750 Running Right. my 2 cents.... maybe you can find something useful in it, mayby not 8-) By the looks of it, it is a race preped engine, either lightly or even heavily modified. The carbs might be reasonably stock isn't it, can you see if they are also race prepaired or that maybe stock carbs have been put back on after the bike retired from the track? If the exhaust is very loud, it will not give much counter pressure, and an FZ runs lousy at low rpm without. Last year I restored a 1AE that came with a Vance & Hince. Very thin, very short and indeed very loud. Great sound, but too embarrising to ride around with, so replaced with a good original 4-2. On the V&H the bike would have almost no power untill 3500-4000 rpm, than it would take off and fly eagerly to the red zone. With the 4-2 it pull neatly from idle, slightly more reluctant to reach 11000, but still no problem. Much much nicer to ride around though. All the best, Dutch
160 23/02/2006 14:22:08 gmanhevner Engine oil??? What engine oil do you suggest? I think the gearbox is very sensitive!Right now I make use of IGOL RACING! Any replies,please help!!!
161 24/02/2006 15:00:19 ganepeil Re: Engine oil??? BB, if you go to this forum (from the begining) there are a couple of posts, ie which oil? and re;which oil? 10/25/05 and 10/26/05 luck. G.
162 24/02/2006 20:20:04 gmanhevner Re: Engine oil??? Thank you very much I read your post but can you tell me your opinion for the IGOL RACING cause its difficult for me to find yamalube!!! Sorry if I bore you,thanks!
163 25/02/2006 04:16:25 ganepeil Re: Engine oil??? Bobyboy,wish I could, but fact is, am not familiar w/IGOL RACING.apparently, we're coninents apart. can only say I favor using petroleum or blends in specified weights for ambient temps. the critical lubrications for genisis motors from my experience has been at the plain bearings. ie cam journals and main/rod bearings which depend on oil pressure for longjevity of engine. most of the trans failures I've seen were rider, not oil. related. open to any/ all differences / opinions/ for consideration, further thought et all G. :-?
164 25/02/2006 10:30:34 gmanhevner Re: Engine oil??? Thank you for your posts I estimate your opinion! Bobyboy. :-)
165 27/02/2006 17:26:50 gmanhevner GENESIS vs EXUP!!! GENESIS versus EXUP engine!!! What is your opinion? Which is the most reliable? :hammer:
166 27/02/2006 22:35:12 ganepeil Re: GENESIS vs EXUP!!! Bob; Good question, will be intrested to note feedback. It's my understanding that the most significant differences between engines is the cant of cyls and some upgraded trans components. If considering a swap would mention that pre exup uses dual ign.pick-ups and require a different CDI than EXUP eng. both for coil trigger and EXUP valve signal. while cdi can be adapted to early wire harness by swapping a couple of wires, you should consider the expense of new CDI and EXUP exhaust (if you decide to go that route).I'm running a EXUP 1000 w/o valve and have no significant complaints tho if one were to show up cheap enough would use,both for smoother bottom/mid and milder exh. note. so far as relibility, well, The EXUP is younger,(both are GENESIS, but I know what you mean)and age is a factor. by the way, welcome aboard. as usual G. 8-)
167 28/02/2006 00:58:53 mike760 Re: GENESIS vs EXUP!!! hi i don't know what the difference is between a FZ750 exup and FZ750 genesis i know the exup was a better engine basic the same but what was wrong with earlier engine was fix up in 87 FZ750 i think this year was the first of the exup. i got the original 1985 FZ750 number 487 i also recalling that the first 500 bikes had the problem i been doing a rebuild and everything has been given good going over cheers mike
168 28/02/2006 05:37:05 buzz87 Re: GENESIS vs EXUP!!! Here is a def'n of [b][color=0033FF]EXUP[/color][/b]: [b][color=0033FF]EX[/color][/b]haust [b][color=0033FF]U[/color][/b]ltimate [b][color=0033FF]P[/color][/b]ower valve. And a small article on it's function: EXUP was adopted for the first time on a 600cc sports model to control exhaust pulsation in the exhaust chamber and improve air intake/exhaust efficiency. One EXUP valve is placed at the point where the four exhaust pipes merge to make for a more compact design. The EXUP body is made of lightweight titanium. (taken from this webpage: ) It's fuction is to: Even more interesting is the exhaust system, which incorporates Yamaha's EXUP exhaust valve in the head pipes to significantly improve low- and mid-range power. Owners who replace the complete exhaust system stand to lose substantial power in the places where they use it most. (taken from the folowing site: ) on the new Roadliner. It has been around for a while (1989?) and is still being used in some of today's production bikes. Put on aftermarket exhaust, and you lose the effectiveness of this feature. (theoretically.)
169 28/02/2006 20:40:37 gmanhevner Re: GENESIS vs EXUP!!! The most important reason for my question is that my brother is an engineer and in his workshop has three fzr motorcucles (400cc-400cc-1000cc).These motorcycles have between 45000mph - 55000)and are models between (92'-94')EXUP engine and they face the same mechanical problem: CRANK and PISTON broke out! The owners took care of their motorcycles frequently!!! After all of these I'm very suspicious about the EXUP, especially from 91' and then! I have never faced such a serious problem with GENESIS especially 87'-90'!!! Friendly Bobyboy!
170 02/03/2006 17:36:00 Dutch Re: GENESIS vs EXUP!!! mike, sorry to say but y'r talking crap. The FZ is not available with EXUP unless you have made one yourself :-D Not 100% sure but think the GENISIS refers to the forward leaning engine, so all FZ, FZR, YZF are genesis models. But not all say so on the fairing :-) Today the EXUP has been copied to quite a fair bit of models, althoug even Yamaha uses a simpler valve type on the latest R1. Does the job thou, giving some back pressure at low rpm. The FZ doesn't have this feature and that's exactly why most aftermarket exhausts run quite crap at low rpm. Cheers, Dutch
171 03/03/2006 02:43:51 ganepeil Re: GENESIS vs EXUP!!! Dutch. always thought that GENESIS designated 5 valve head. EXUP, a variable exhaust valve (usually located in collector of multi cyl. 4 strokes, which changed exhaust back pressure and altered shock wave frequency depending on engine rpm.) also from a post in "Brotherhood" from the TICEMAN the model designation letters F - four stroke, Z- racing application R- aluminum frame (apparently in 2 designations. searched american models fz750 from 85-88 and none had EXUP tho have no resources from 88-92 (European Dist.) cheers G. :lol:
172 03/03/2006 08:50:32 Dutch Re: GENESIS vs EXUP!!! Could well be Genesis refs to the valves. Have to do my homework to be sure I guess, but seems we agree it's engine related :-D Exup: think it was Suzuki was then the first to copy the idea behind Yamaha's exup when they put a butterfly type valve in the exhaust of the GSX-R1000 a few years ago. Now the 'blade has it also, not sure of the ZX10, an maybe even the newest 600's. The exup is kind of a roll (not sure how to express it), on the latest R1 Yamaha has choosen for a simpler butterfly type valve also. 'Knowledge' comes from reading a Dutch bike mag, I just copy what the journalists wrote :-D :-D Cheers, Dutch
173 04/03/2006 03:03:57 ganepeil Re: GENESIS vs EXUP!!! Dutch, would be most intrested in "Dutch Freak's" findings if he's published them for public consumption. am running a EXUP 1000 eng in fz (sorta) chassis w/4-1 thou exhaust (no EXUP) and have jetted thru flat spot. ie no ridability probs but would like more meat in midrange and more pleasant exhaust shopping for stock headers and exup on ebay hoping to combine w/less bulky lighter can. but a internal sleeve would be cheaper and might help db woes as well. PS registered w/ but site is having some set-up probs. will keep on trying. Thks G.
174 04/03/2006 16:21:25 buzz87 Re: GENESIS vs EXUP!!! One of the articles I read simply stated that the statute of limitations simply ran out on the EXUP Patent that Yamaha had, so now many manufacturers are incorporating the technology into their products. The downside is that since the exhaust manifold is part of the system, it cannot be removed (and replaced with aftermarket exhaust) and retain the benefits of the EXUP system. Aftermarket exhaust manufacturers will claim thet their product will give better numbers (HP) and better flow, which is true, but they won't tell you this is in upper RPM range (which you don't need on the street) and that you will lose lower RPM driveability.
175 06/03/2006 02:06:53 mike760 Re: GENESIS vs EXUP!!! dutch. well how do you explain that the numbers and writing on ident plate and fairing having exup i believe that never ran a exup system until later years i thought they began in 87 but may of been later i also know that my never had the exup system but ident plates state it on my bike it a exup now i read something about the engine they call one thing then change it in later years i don't why it say exup but all numbers match so that probaly why i say it that way dutch
176 09/03/2006 20:57:41 Dutch Re: GENESIS vs EXUP!!! Mike, where does your bike say 'exup'? Can you place a pic here? Or anywhere else on the internet with a link here? Or mail me (see profil). Afaik the Exup was only on the FZR1000, YZF750 could be, FZR750 / FZR750RR-OW01 not sure. But FZ750 reasonably sure not way. Cheers, Dutch
177 19/08/2006 16:00:59 Charlie Re: GENESIS vs EXUP!!! Hi there I am putting in an exup engine into my FZ (1985). I have a complete single pick up loom and CDI from a later FZ750. Will these run the exup engine or should I change the CDI? I also have the Exup CDI unit. You mentio you only have to change a couple of wires. Couyld you tell me which ones. I would be very grateful for any advice. Cheers Charlie ganepeil wrote: Bob; Good question, will be intrested to note feedback. It's my understanding that the most significant differences between engines is the cant of cyls and some upgraded trans components. If considering a swap would mention that pre exup uses dual ign.pick-ups and require a different CDI than EXUP eng. both for coil trigger and EXUP valve signal. while cdi can be adapted to early wire harness by swapping a couple of wires, you should consider the expense of new CDI and EXUP exhaust (if you decide to go that route).I'm running a EXUP 1000 w/o valve and have no significant complaints tho if one were to show up cheap enough would use,both for smoother bottom/mid and milder exh. note. so far as relibility, well, The EXUP is younger,(both are GENESIS, but I know what you mean)and age is a factor. by the way, welcome aboard. as usual G. 8-) [/quote] :-? :-? :-? 8-) :lol:
178 30/03/2006 22:46:00 mike760 Fuel Injection Has anyone made or thinking of making their bike fuel injected for either 750 or 1000 engine if so did you or thinking useing other bikes fuel injection assembly like the a Z1000 assembly from kawasaki. where the injection on the throttle body. like to hear your thought on this idea of a project to fuel injection of your FZ cheers Mike760
179 31/03/2006 03:14:03 ganepeil Re: Fuel Injection Mike, If you're not already familiar, follow JohnyTopaz 's post (address) in 2nd general forum under fzr1000 (3rd post) to exupbrotherhood. either search fuel inj. or look under tech. there are a couple different entrys, on possible routes tho I don't recall anyone actually pulling it off... 1 neat bit of work under TURBO tho. luck G
180 31/03/2006 03:29:48 mike760 Re: Fuel Injection thank g. i have a look see what they doing not planning to do myself i just wanted see if anyone is or has done it i check it out cheers mike
181 31/03/2006 17:48:52 pthomas1 85 Engine Rebuild I had a blown piston, so I found some 1mm oversize pistons and rings and got the cyclinders machined for them. After I installed them and bolted on the cyclinder head, I tried to crank the engine using the bolt that was inserted on the left end of the crankshaft. The bolt sheared off, and I am not sure why the pistons won't move, nor, how to move them. I am assuming it is because it is a newly honed, but I dont' know how to make the pistons break. Any ideas? Also, is there any reasons of why I should have redone the crankshaft, or is it ok that I never touched it? If anyone has any suggestions as to ways to get better performance or just general ideas, please pass them on.
182 01/04/2006 01:03:36 buzz87 Re: 85 Engine Rebuild The most reliable method of checking the crank to rod clearances AND crank to mains clearances would have been to use Plastiguage before throwing it all back together. Since it is together, you can't check now. There is a chance, of course, that it was all good. Mileage nor any other method of guessing your clearances would not have been reliable. Can't answer the other question - Assuming you lubed the cylinder walls? And assuming your electric starter is not cranking the engine? Try without the spark plugs inserted so that there is no compression. Good Luck...
183 01/04/2006 17:54:54 pthomas1 Re: 85 Engine Rebuild I managed to get the pistons to break free using the electric start, however still can not get the bolt out of the end of the crankshaft. It actually shattered my easy out into pieces, so not too sure if another one will work, or if I will have to drill the entire bolt out and retap. The engine is all back together now, just need to do the timing, but to do that, need the bolt out. Will keep updated on status.
184 01/04/2006 20:33:30 buzz87 Re: 85 Engine Rebuild I had that happen to an easy-out on me once. It's because they're so brittle. One thing I have done in this situation is to drill through the sheared bolt as close to center as possible, and using various sizes of rat-tail file until I just get to the threads of the shaft. Then using a dental pick of the right configuration, pick out what is left of the threads of the bolt until the hole is clean. It's then a good idea to chase the threads with a bottoming tap to make sure it's all clean. Your biggest hurdle will be to drill through a bolt that has an easy out stuck in it. They are so hard as to make it nigh impossible to get a centered hole drilled. The easy out will attempt to push your drill bit to the side. With a center punch and some patience, with tons of luck - you might be alright. Good Luck!! :-) Johnny
185 02/04/2006 05:27:55 ganepeil Re: 85 Engine Rebuild Ptom, have experianced difficulty in turning crank by your' method tho never to sheering bolt. all is not lost though. even if all attempts at removing sheered bolt fail sheered bolt doesent' neccisitated r%r crank. as that hole is'nt a oil galley.engine can still be rotated by putting in gear and turning rear wheel.(as long as engine is still insittu) big question is why crank is hard top spin. ie did blown piston frag and possibly leave bits in cam or starter chains causing diffeculty in turning over.if so chains are suspect and even worse the posibility of debris clogging the oil venturies to top end and trans lube passages/venturies.chicken little. :-?
186 24/04/2006 23:06:00 pthomas1 Re: 85 Engine Rebuild I thought I had it all figured out and put back together, but I only had compression in cylinder one. I took it apart and redid the timing like the manual says, and I still only have compression in cylinder one (120psi). I have no idea why it would do this. I turned the crank until I seen the "T" with a line right beside it. I lined the pointer up with the line, then set both the cam marks with the cam cap marks. I then lined the marked sprocket hole up with the bolt hole on the cam. Installed the chain tensioner and rotated the crank one turn to get the other sprocket bolts. I then turned the crank another turn to make sure everything lined up and it did. I had also did a rough check to see where the pistons were at the "T" mark. The number one and four were up, and the number two and three were down, which makes sense. I have no idea what to do, or what could be wrong. I would appreciate any help, as it is more than a month before I would be able to get it into a shop, and also don't really have the money to pay them to do it, if it is something simple.
187 25/04/2006 06:07:23 buzz87 Re: 85 Engine Rebuild I havent done the timing thing, but one thing you could do is- with the valve cover off the engine and the plugs out rotate the engine and watch the action of the valves (I and E separately) and see if any are sticking and if they are timed correctly and if they are closed when the pistons are at TDC. Sure someone else will have more suggestions. If the rings werent seated right, surely you would get some compression. Did you try compression test dry as well as with oil. ( a squirt in each cylinder) Oil will seal the rings to the walls and give you some indication as to ring-wall sealing. Wondering too, if valve shims got mixed around and are leaving valves open slightly when they are supposed to be closed? Just some thoughts...
188 26/04/2006 01:30:27 mike760 Re: 85 Engine Rebuild hi first thing to do is too take the head to a mechanic and get it service the value of this can make the engine last a very much longer. as for the compression issue it is differently your values are either not closing or can't close. it the only way you can get a zero on compression. another thing get the ports polish give better air flow also i read you didn't touch the crank it should be ok if bike has not gone over 80k on the clock even it had 70k on clock i still replace the bearing on the crank and either end of the crank. i done a rebuild on my 85 fz750 but i never use the bolt to crank the engine you are surpose to use you hand push down on two cyclinders then the other two then you can use the bolt. my fz750 i change all bearing and seals con-rods and pistons since my barrels had water damage from a busted gasket, i was getting radiator fluid in. the bolt not made for new engines or rebore engines it made for broken in engines that why so many break there bolts hope it comes together soon cheers mike760
189 26/04/2006 02:56:08 ganepeil Re: 85 Engine Rebuild Tom, from your' description cam timing good, look at tops of your' old pistons searching for contact crescents from possible contact from valves (usually center intake) if engine failure also caused jump time on cam/s its possible you have a fist full of bent valves. check valve clearances as per manual, bent valves will have excessive clearance as valves will be unable to completely home. also possible loose carbon bits are causing valves to fail to seat.(also indicated by excessive clearance) forged cranks seldom come out of true without damage to rods (usually dicernable by noting relative piston heights at tdc prior to head install) questions which piston fragged? did you have undue difficuly installing cyl on new pistons/rings? luck G
190 27/04/2006 23:12:42 oldman Re: 85 Engine Rebuild an easy way to check for bent valves is remove the spark plugs look at the piston tops if the valves hit the piston they should have removed some of the carbon on the piston . another thing when you refitted the pistons did you offset the piston rings ? :-o
191 28/04/2006 15:54:54 pthomas1 Re: 85 Engine Rebuild It was the cyclinder two piston that blew, and it has less than 40000km on the bike. When I installed the new pistons, I offset all the rings, about 1/3 of a turn from one another. I changed all the valve stem seals, and once reinstalled, the valves were all sealed, as I tried putting some brake fluid in each of the ports, and nothing leaked. This is why it keeps saying timing must be out, but there isn't too many ways to screw that up, from what I can see.
192 28/04/2006 19:49:12 oldman Re: 85 Engine Rebuild if you say the timing is ok then no worries going back to the compression thou there is only one way i know to test for loss of compression and you will need an air compressor and will need an air adapter to fit in the spark plug hole /set say No1 piston to tdc on firing stroke at this point all valves will be closed put the bike in gear (brakes on) this is where the fun starts as you start blowing air into the cilender if all is ok the pressure should push the piston down and the engine should turn the fact its in gear and the brakes on means you are holding the piston at tdc if there is an air leak you will now hear where the leak is coming from there are only 3 places to check first the end of the exhaust you will feel or hear air coming out or check the airbox or the crank case breather better still remove the oil filler cap if you have an air leak trust me you will soon find out where the problem lies then do the same steps on the other 3 cilenders best of luck .
193 29/04/2006 04:11:55 ganepeil Re: 85 Engine Rebuild Tom, am perplexed. as crank and cams are cast/forged it's almost impossible for crank/cam timing to vary between cyls. to have comp.on #1 and not on others would indicate either valves not closing (sticking valves or no clearance) or catrostopic piston/ring failure. as bore is fresh would go to valve train. Oldmans post on checking leakdown is good, I have a tool, its called a differential leakdown tester. basically its a compression tester fitting which screws into head at sparkplug hole and w pist/at tdc measures difference between whatever air presure is applied and what is retained in cly. a fresh bore w/ unseated rings is usually 4-6% stock comp. for the 750 was @ 150-160 psimaking #1 marginal and even bent rods would register some compression on others. rec. check valve clearances as if shims jumped from seats in assy would hold valves open and worst case scenario upon roll over cause piston contct. slinking away g
194 29/04/2006 15:39:16 buzz87 Re: 85 Engine Rebuild I changed all the valve stem seals, and once reinstalled, the valves were all sealed, as I tried putting some brake fluid in each of the ports, and nothing leaked.' If you put brake fluid in the system before you tried rotating you engine with that bolt that ended up shearing, this is part of the problem. Brake fluid is very corrosive. (not made to slip or seal in this environment) Only ever us regular engine oil for this sort of thing. Brake fluid will attack metal, paint and rubber(if it isn't the right kind of rubber) So your valve seals might be set up for failure now. But I still agree with my original thought that is backed up by others here - you have valve problems. i.e. - valves don't seat - you get zero compression. Only other thing that would do this would be a hole somewhere else which you would have noticed upon teardown and rebuild. Only other possibility (hinted at by gane) is ring failure - and this could have been caused using the brake fluid - leaking down around rings - seizing them to piston walls - then breaking rings as engine was broken free. It is more likely, however, that it is sticking or bent valves (which are easier to check for) - as noted - so check those first.
195 30/04/2006 02:32:34 pthomas1 Re: 85 Engine Rebuild Sorry, I messed up when I was typing. Should never try typing, talking, and thinking all at the same time. I used gas to check that the valves were sealed, by pouring in through the intake and exhaust ports. and then looking for any that leaked through. As for the brake fluid, I was telling someone what they needed to pick up for their car. Thanks for all the advice though, I keep trying all these little tricks as I find time.
196 30/04/2006 04:28:54 buzz87 Re: 85 Engine Rebuild PT - that's a relief - and a hoot! :lol: :lol: Funny how the mind works (or doesn't) sometimes! So at what point did you check the valves with gas for sealing? And how, exactly? Also, I keep reading in clymer pg 88,89 that if cams are moved during timing mark alignment etc that piston or valve damage may occur. Try to recheck the sealing of the valves. Take care and keep trying - you'll get to the bottom of it! Johny :-x
197 30/04/2006 23:43:27 mike760 Re: 85 Engine Rebuild just one other thing i can think off for you if it seems it not the valves of rings has the engine been fill with radiator fuild yet if yes likely it not leaking into the where head and barrel seal and it possible that radiator fluid going into cyclinder if no you can't tell weather is it is leaking through there so i suggest undo all head bolts and redo then up with a torque wrench and do it up like the way describe in the manual all best way do all up to where it get a bit tighter then go by the book it nip them up tight and it possible that the seal isn't laying flat either causing a hole and letting no pressure build up hope help a little cheers mike760
198 01/05/2006 09:38:42 oldman Re: 85 Engine Rebuild Mike if he had fluid in the barrel for one he would not be able to turn over the engine and what he would need to do is remove the plugs spin over the engine on the starter and the fluid wound shoot out of the plug hole and as he has done a compresion test with the plugs out then i am sure that aint the case . I am still going with the valves myself but hey i could be wrong
199 02/05/2006 03:52:05 mike760 Re: 85 Engine Rebuild hi i still agree, but amount fluid would only be very small and would still be able to turn other, but i still think it is more likey the valves it was just another suggestion or just to recheck over again, though i always had agree with the valves being the problem. but i reckon he should do what you and i did to our heads get them completly redone though i did not shave of any on my head just en-large the exhaust valve. mike760
200 02/05/2006 14:36:47 oldman Re: 85 Engine Rebuild Hey Mike i am sure glad i did the head after removing the exhaust valves i found the ports glogged up with carbon yes i spent all day working on the head time well spent in my opinion
201 03/05/2006 01:22:06 mike760 Re: 85 Engine Rebuild i agree i got mine done by the mechanics since springs and other parts got replace at same time i do think how ever it proably build very quick again so may need to run some carbon break down product with in the fuel after going through so many tanks since you clean yourself what did you use and how did you do it?? cheers mike760
202 03/05/2006 08:36:02 oldman Re: 85 Engine Rebuild nothing special i use a dremil with a wire brush on it sand paper and what we call here in the UK as elbow greese in other words lots of hard work
203 16/04/2006 03:03:05 isenegger Oil leak on side I have a 85 FZ 750. I have a problem. There is a hair line crack on my engine by the back brake lever. It leaks oil. I need a new cover. Get from dealer or online, and about how much do they cost. I guess i could always JB Weld it but i dont like riging up things. thnks!
204 16/04/2006 22:23:33 buzz87 Re: Oil leak on side Not enuf info. Is it on the oil pan (readily avail on ebay) or is it the clutch housing (much harder to get) or on the clutch cover? (also readily avail on ebay) If it is the clutch housing, try who has parts (washington state) or Mark: (saskatchewan province) If it is the housing you have lots of work ahead of you. Good luck!
205 17/04/2006 04:52:04 isenegger Re: Oil leak on side if you look from the right side of the bike. on the engine where it says yamaha, that plate is like 8" or so in diameter. the brake lever is towards the bottom. there is a crazy between two of the bolts. oil runs down the frame and off the fairings.
206 17/04/2006 07:02:14 buzz87 Re: Oil leak on side Sounds like the clutch cover which includes that plate. Those come up on ebay frequently enuf for decent bucks. Depending on the shape of the gasket it may or may not come with, you might want to get a gasket from your dealer. If the cover is even available from Yam it would be too much $$. If you can't find one soon, let me know. I have a spare I may be willing to part with. Does your clutch work alright other than that? No slipping or anything? Noise? hoping for no internal damage...
207 18/04/2006 00:32:26 ganepeil Re: Oil leak on side I: chk items 4586275848 and 4587550700 on ebay, buy it now are 20 and 25 bucks respectively both covers show dings in same area as your's but possibly not cracked. Luck G
208 25/04/2006 04:06:47 spack mileage? my '88 has a hair over 21,000 on it. i was wondering how that compares to the other bikes on here, and if that is a lot and if i should expect problems, or if it is not really too much. it never has really been beat on, the guy i bought it from was a very responsible rider, and the owner before him bought it new and was an older guy. i do not have any leaks or anything oil or water. and it runs very smooth.
209 26/04/2006 01:12:30 mike760 Re: mileage? 21000 is low on any bike any where from 50-to100 thousand and onwards there can be problems just have bike minor then major service every 4000km and bike will be a lot better off
210 26/04/2006 01:54:38 ganepeil Re: mileage? Hi. agree w/Mike, 21 k low miles for your 88. would only equate to 2-3 years use in year-round riding. hardest thing on these bikes is prolonged sitting, as batterys tend to sulphate and carbs gumm up. a fz ridden regularly with reasonable oil changes and valve adjusts can be expected to go 100k mi. tho sitting allows seals to get brittle and chains develop tight spots. avoid mis-shifts and the rev-limiter and the old girl will last a long time. luck G 8-)
211 01/05/2006 15:26:20 spack slight sputter it is weird... i cranked it up this morn to go to school and let it warm up and went to school, it ran fine. then about 2 hours later and it was hard to start, i had to choke it which i never have to (its about 70*f here) i let it warm up for about 5 mins again, then when i went to ride away it started sputtering a little. it seemed like it was only 1 cyl. i rode it around a bit (about 10mi) and it got a little better but not much, the really strange thing is, it has a crap load of power now... and how bad do any of your guyses fork seals leak?
212 01/05/2006 21:35:40 ganepeil Re: slight sputter Spac, weird indeed, easy things to listen for. when needs choke to start. cycle key/kill sw.and listen for fuel pump.(usually will hear a couple pulses even after recent running) 2 pop gas cap and listen for sucking. 3 switch to reserve and cycle key/kill sw again. part 2 sputtering, rough idle. chk for black smoke at exhaust w/moderate rev up. my reasoning. 1st, most running probs carb/fuel. related. weakest links w/750 are.(dirty carbs) will dismiss because seemes to run ok mostly. fuel pump presure cut-out (contacts in fuel pump common failure on f-zed.)fuel pump relay and flasher relay also usual suspects in fuel delivery. also sticking pressure release/vent valve in gas cap. when joined with fuel evap. from residal eng heat at float bowls can cause hard starting when warm/hot. all can be intermittant . if black smoke noted w/ sputtering rough idle, possible sticking float valve/s or leaking oring/s which seal valves to carb bodies. causing fouled plug/s.which may or may not clean up on running. if prob. persists, try spraying header pipes w/some non-flamable liquid and watch for evaperation, will at least show where and all w/out getting yer hands dirty. tell me to butt-out any time G. 8-)
213 02/05/2006 01:36:19 buzz87 Re: slight sputter Spack - you can get a fork seal kit on ebay for relatively cheap. The bad thing with them leaking, is the oil might get on your brake pads (still have to do mine because of this) and the brakes can grab then. Not good. Have to take fork tubes off triple trees to do them. See for proceedure. Johny
214 02/05/2006 03:21:08 spack Re: slight sputter yeah i saw a couple of kits on there. and when i take the forks out of the tubes it will give me a reason to lower the inch or so i wanted. and it doesent smoke at all, it also idles great. it only seemed to sputter when i was cruising at a steady rpm. when i got the bike the first thing i did was pull the carbs and throughly clean them. i soaked all the jets in some left over hopps (i went shooting that day), and cleaned out all of the passages in the carbs. what i think might have been the prob is either a piece of junk got into one of the carbs, and/or a plug was fouled and it cleaned it self. i did not get new plugs yet, they were pretty bad looking (black) when i got the bike. but it ran very consistent for about 400mi then all the sudden i got a huge power gain after the sputtering. before it seemed pretty sluggish through 6,000rpm and then it picked up, but now it throws me back in the seat and lifts the front end through 4th gear!!! without really popping the clutch, just power weelies, and i also only weigh about a buck 30, im 6'3" though. it still likes to kinda pulse when im cruising at a steady rpm though, not bad, very un-niticable. it did that before though. and it sounds a lot throatier, a deeper tone, and the throttle is a lot more responsive.
215 02/05/2006 04:05:59 mike760 Re: slight sputter only thing i can think of is either you burning more fuel because of compression drop hence the more power side of things or your exhaust now has a hole which will give you louder and deep exhaust tone you could also have carbon build up increasing the compression which can also lead to more power but would show a lot more black smoke out exhaust i say you got a compression lost, it happen to me on my other bike which is now retired, you good be at the beginning of the power band 6000rpm good be at the start so it goes back and forth and seem like a sputter but bike just want to rev higher this could another solution though i reckon high unlikly any cheers mike760
216 03/05/2006 03:15:42 spack Re: slight sputter it might have had some carbon build up on a plug.. that cleaning up, and the warmer temps might have been it. i dont know, it is running good so i guess i cant it is running so good it got me a ticket today.. :-( a D.O.T. even pulled me over. he clocked me at 101mph and said i was still pulling... i dident even know i was doing anything over 80!! it was in a 65 zone... but seeings i was respectful, and honest with him he only put me at 79mph. he pulled me over and said "so what are you in such a hurry for?" and i said "i was just trying to stay ahead of the traffic." and he replied with "at 101mph?" i just said "oh...oops.." but he was a nice cop. he said the only real reason he pulled me over is because he sees too many bikers wrapped around trees, and him being a "fellow rider" dident want to read about me in the paper. but all it is 152.50$ away from my bike... i should have just saved it for this weekend. (drag strip...)
217 04/05/2006 01:19:46 buzz87 Re: slight sputter Spack - you're lucky - 101 around here would prob get license yanked! And don't forget to look at the speedo when you're 'keepin ahead of traffic.' :lol: :lol: That's what that little round guage is for! (it does work, doesn't it?) :-x Take care! John
218 04/05/2006 01:39:02 mike760 Re: slight sputter what this getting pull over only at 101mph should of got done doing at 150mph i know one thing i get told this all the time why do you speed my reply i'm breaking law not bound to taffic (as all motorcycles should there no such thing as traffic) as far speeding goes quickest i gone is 308kph on my old GPZ900R which off the gpz clock but i had put on a digital one and held it there for around 30min down one of our freeways it most fun i ever had mine there not much room error but you only fear what you don't know people often say it stupid i say live for it anyway cheers mike760
219 06/05/2006 20:26:23 fslflint Clutch not engaging!?! so I got my motorcycle running nicely today. I was very happy with the way it was going and so I decided to take it for a quik test ride. I grabbed my helmet and jacket and jumped on. when I dropped it into first gear it acted like the clutch didn't engage and stalled out. so I pulled in the clutch and pushed the start button.....nothing. I put it back in nuetral and it starts right back up but as soon as I try to put it into gear it won't work. any ideas?
220 07/05/2006 00:32:44 ganepeil Re: Clutch not engaging!?! F. if eng dies immediatly when put into gear. 1st chk that clutch does dis-engage (can pull in cl. and attempt to push wilst in gear. some drag typical but not to extent of locked rear wheel) if you can roll bike neaxt check is side stand switch and clutch switch. both are closed contact switches and can be bypassed by paper clip to wire harness.luck G.
221 03/06/2006 05:52:18 harry69koi Re: Clutch not engaging!?! Ill go for the sidestand switch aswell :-o
222 21/05/2006 19:03:18 tommyrut FT vs AE engines I just picked up an engine on ebay...the numbers were FT 001 1070. I have a 1986 FZ750 US model...1AE i believe is the model number. Does anyone know if those motors are interchangeable? or will i need a bunch of new stuff to make it work?
223 22/05/2006 01:12:52 ganepeil Re: FT vs AE engines tom, just glanced at MODELS BY PREFIX on indicates eng is from canadian 85 fz750, should be straight swap. Luck G. 8-)
224 14/06/2006 14:12:07 Dutch Re: FT vs AE engines I put a 1AE engine in a 1FT. No problem.
225 10/06/2006 21:22:28 fz989sf bike jumps out of second??? hi all hope u can help,my fzr1000 motor in fz750 frame keeps coming out of second when i pull away going to strip gearbox,but help before i go inside would be appreciated .cheers....stig : :-D
226 19/06/2006 23:00:49 tommyrut 1986 FZ750 engine for sale I have a 1986 FZ750 engine for sale. It's in good shape. I never had any major problems with it. I will be including the starter, water pump, alternator, and carb boots(intake boots whatever you call them). The starter could use a can still electronically start the bike, but it sometimes wont engage right away, might take once or twice to get it running. It's worth about 550 if you add everything up. I will be selling it for $400. I live in Ames, Iowa..near des moines. I can deliver it for a charge, or I will be in Chicago this Thursday night and friday morning, then wisconsin...lake geneva..friday/sat/sunday. If you are near any of that, we could meet and you can pick up. Let me know asap. thanks. tom-6/19/06 PS.. i am looking for some sides and upper fairing for an 88 FZ700.. if you have a good set, let me know, and we could trade.
227 25/06/2006 21:11:37 sidecar42 '86 FZ750 - hot stall no restart I'm stumped on what's wrong with my FZ and its driving me nuts. Bike is an '86 with about 29K miles on it. When the bike gets hot (cooling fan kicks on) it will sometimes stall out unexpectedly and then not restart for 15-20 minutes. Usually it stalls in traffic (somewhere really annoying, like a highway offramp two weeks ago). No amount of cranking, fussing with the throttle or choke or anything will get it going again. 15 minutes later it may start up and I'll ride it home as fast as possible and then park it in the garage swearing at it. I bought the bike very used - previous owner had a K&N stage III kit in it. I've been trying to get the fool thing to run right for three years now with little success. Jets are back to factory stock, stock needle position Stock airbox Carbs have been removed, disassembled, cleaned and reassembled more times than I care to remember. Float level is as close as I can get it to factory settings. Pilot screws are about 3 turns out (although they don't seem to influence the occurence of this problem) Needle jets are round (not worn oval) Just did a valve clearance job this spring (took 0.004" off nearly all the valves to open them up, they were VERY tight) New battery this spring Things I've checked/done to the bike: Its always had cold start problems when its below 60F outside - I opened up the enrichment jet 0.002" this spring and the low temp starting has improved lots (although the hot stalling hasn't changed) CDI seems to be working fine (when bike stalls out, I still have good spark) Fuel pump seems to be working fine (can't find evidence of it quitting when the bike gets real hot - plus I can get it to hot stall and no-restart when running from a hanging fuel bottle in my garage) Re-synched the carbs Cleaned all the ground connections off (main wire and wire on ignition coil) This weekend I removed all the tape from the main harness looking for bad splices & melted wires. Found a couple of areas that needed attention (but nothing major or intermittant looking). Added a new ground connection to the harness and re-wired the primary wiring usings relays (so full load current doesn't go through the ignition switch and the starter button now drops out both the headlight and the cooling fan to reduce loads on the battery when its cranking). It still hot-stalls with a no-start. I can see the fuel pump working (clear fuel line) and I can see I've got good spark (pull a wire and test it on a spare plug). The thermostat checked out fine when I pulled it out last year and the cooling fan cycles on and off normally. So I'm totally stumped - and nearing the end of my rope. When the bike runs, its kinda of fun but I'm sick and tired of it crapping out in trafffic on me in the hottest weather. More clues: it always starts great when the engine is cold (and its above 60F), it gets 30-33mpg on the highway. It had a huge flat spot between 2000-4000rpm when I first bought it but all the carb fussing and now the valve work seems to have improved that to the point where I don't notice it as much anymore. Any suggestions or other areas to look at?
228 26/06/2006 02:37:22 tommyrut Re: '86 FZ750 - hot stall no restart sounds like there are a few things that arent working right. 1. i think the stall is due to overheating/friction in the cylinders. If that metal heats expands..ever so slightly, but it would cause the pistons to stick until they cool down long enough to come free. I would.. a. flush the coolant system. b. check for blockage in any of the oil lines..whatever you want to call them. Kinda sounds like you dont have enough oil in cylinders. hope that helps. tom
229 27/06/2006 01:48:31 ganepeil Re: '86 FZ750 - hot stall no restart ac. chk both plugs for fouling and valve clearances,know you were just there, but stellite valves seat quickly after facing dissapears (and continue to dissapear) and plugs foul when hi temps cause fuel to boil out of float bowls.luck G
230 27/06/2006 11:39:18 Dutch Re: '86 FZ750 - hot stall no restart I'm with ganepeil. Appearently runs quite rich too, mine does about 20 km/liter, about 12 m/qt = 48 mpg. Even at a high-speed run with holiday luggage (180-210 kmh wherever I could (German Autobahn of course :-D )) kept it at about 14 km/l = 55 km/g = about 37 mpg.
231 28/06/2006 04:01:08 ganepeil Re: '86 FZ750 - hot stall no restart ac, as a side bar. ANY AND ALL COMMENTS WELCOME, the fz is susceptible to overheating. my experiances have been that after any kind of engine work requiring coolant system drain, several heat cycles are required to burp system and even then cooling system is marginal. one assist is to install a switch to over- ride thermostatic sender and activate fan any time temp guage starts to climb (especially usefull in gridlock) while I haven't resorted to this yet, I have installed a heat sheild which sits between the float bowls and engine cases. I stole it from an old xj 550 carb rack, tho one could be fabricated from a turkey baster pan easily, have had no hot stall probs since, but summers still new. luck G.
232 28/06/2006 09:25:00 Dutch Re: '86 FZ750 - hot stall no restart Maybe I was just lucky, but I never had a cooling problem on any of my FZ's. Most of the time they spend in the lower part of the dial. Even when temp gets up (hot weather & low speed) the fan kicks in and it never overheats (knock on wood). Must say they are / have been reasonably to very fuel efficient and 'low' milage. Freddy, my 'daily' ride is a '95 3KS with 50,000 Km. Few years ago we had a track day in fairly warm weather. After a good session I ride back in the pit lane, upen up the visor to let the steam escape and look down expecting to see an elevated heat swich. Hardly above normal as if the bike was saying "is that the best you can do" :-D :-D On the Dutch board however more seem to have a temp worry, I know of at least two who are going to install a fan swich. Cheers, Dutch
233 04/07/2006 04:12:44 sidecar42 Re: '86 FZ750 - hot stall no restart Thanks for the tips everybody - I'm going to check out the cooling system again this week. Possibly pull the radiator and flush it (make sure its flowing ok) and I guess I should replace the thermostat for good measure. The cooling fan override switch sounds like a good idea as well. Might try the heat shield idea too if I can fit something in there.
234 15/07/2006 21:27:34 sidecar42 Re: '86 FZ750 - mystery solved (I think) Well, after I ruled out air and spark and most of the fuel system I was running out of things to check. Fuel filter? Nope - it was fine (I replaced it anyway). Fuel pump? Nope - it clacks merrily when I turn the bike on so it must be fine right? Wrong! Even though it seems to work fine, I saw on this board that the wire in the pump breaks from fatigue. I took mine apart and sure enough the wire was broken and the pump was running because of the metal to metal contact at the pivot point of the breaker points. The pivot was all dark and carboned up so it had been arcing for some time. I replaced the broken wire with some high-flex braid I had lying around (use solder wick if you're in a pinch, just take it easy on the solder). Reassembled everything and took the bike for a ride on a nice hot day (92F in the shade). Result: the bike seemed to be fine, no stalls, no huge flat spots, actually a little dry off idle (occasional backfire on decel with closed throttle but I'm not complaining compared to what I put up with on this bike in the past). So even if your fuel pump 'checks out' because it seems to run, its worth taking the screw off the back and seeing what's going on inside. No need to take off the five or six screws on the diaphragm side unless you've got a leak or suspect a bad check valve. Also I spent 90 minutes straightening cooling fins in the radiator. I washed all the oil and road gunk off and then painstakingly bent back into shape all the fins on both sides of the radiator using an o-ring pick and a jeweler's screwdriver. This seemed to help out the overheating (the thermostat looked fine but I boiled it on the stove just to be sure it was opening all the way and it works great). Since I heard the cooling system was marginal on this bike to begin with I figured a compromised radiator can't be helping anything. When you add up all the area that got occluded by bent fins I was probably at 10% or more of the radiator being blocked. I put a manual override switch on the radiator fan anyway, for when I'm stuck in traffic. If I don't see any more problems with stalling this week I'll pronounce it fixed! Thanks to everybody on the board - this was a really vexing problem.
235 08/07/2006 10:57:08 lurch flat spot at 4-5000rpm I just got an MOT on my 86' model and thought I'd better try and take it for a spin. So riding around it soon became apprent there was a sodding great flat spot that it would not pull through cleanly when gassed! It's at that point where your Pilots are taken over by the mains. What a pain in the arse! It has a 4-2-1 straight through system and has shed loads of top end, has anyone got any ideas? or if this thing has been DJ'd or something, coz when I bought it it had no air filter element in? Anyway I'll have to strip the carbs if no one has any experience of this...
236 11/07/2006 04:47:07 tommyrut Re: flat spot at 4-5000rpm hey, fz's are known for that dead spot. What I had to do, is take the carbs apart, clean the crap out of them, mainly dealing with the pilot jets. if you have never had the jets replaced..might not be a bad idea to do that if you are taking them apart anyways. but yea, my guess is there is some build up in your pilots. btw, i found this out when i was working on mine.. all of the screws that are used on the carbs, can be found in any loews or ace hardware. AND are the correct lengths. The metal on mine was so old that it was getting soft and would strip easily. So yea...hope that helps.
237 11/07/2006 21:20:55 lurch Re: flat spot at 4-5000rpm Thanks for the reply! I was a bit out actually - on riding it today to work and back it's between 3-4000rpm, and feels just like the race pipe is to blame as it's a classic "sacrafice the bottom end for more top end" job!. It's definitely down to the Pilot jets - you're right. I can live with it but maybe a stage 1 kit would improve things further!
238 18/07/2006 07:17:38 Dutch Re: flat spot at 4-5000rpm As you found out the FZ needs correct back pressure for power at low revs. That's why the FZR got the exup valve later on (now used on all big supersports). Good carb set-up will improve it a bit, but it will be very difficult or impossible to get the grunt you have with a oem exhaust. Having ridden a 1AE with both a Vance & Hince and an original 4-2 it really feels like a totally different engine. Personally I was more happy with the 4-2, had the power where I needed it and wasn't as embarrisingly loud as the V&H. Cheers, Dutch
239 29/07/2006 07:16:03 lurch Re: flat spot at 4-5000rpm Thanks Dutch, I couldn't agree with you more, I can't be bothered to rev the thing for the top end (bad habits with the GSXR11 I guess) and would much prefer a smooth delivery and extra torque over a few BHP top end! I love the way these things steer with Bridgestones on, very nice indeed, no need to muscle it about like the GSXR, a real joy to ride it on bendy roads!
240 11/08/2006 07:36:02 Dutch Re: flat spot at 4-5000rpm BTW, a 4-1 from later FZ will also work in the 1AE. Alternatively you can try putting a small obstruction in the pipe to reduce flow. A dutch mate has measured the resistance of the oem exhaust and the Superpole#1 can he purchased, calculated the proper diameter for the connecting pipe and he now has a bike with both low down power and great noise (not too loud though).
241 13/08/2006 01:53:01 robhar2 Re: flat spot at 4-5000rpm ive got a 1fn engine here thats doing the same about 4000-5000 maybe, dont know exactly as ive got an elec speedo im running a set of fzr1000 genesis 37mm carbs, 128 main jets, standard needles set on 2nd setting, almost the highest, single cone air filters, so i dont have any airbox carbs have just beel thoroughly cleaned out today yesterday i was running fzr750 34mm keihins with standard needles and 128 mains and single filters, i had the flatspot at 1000-2000 i dont know a lot about carbs so im peeing in the wind really just trying to find a good setup running single cones means i should have my needles sitting as high as possible right? what would happen if i decided to use the thinner 750 needles in the 1000 carbs ive got a set of standard 750 cdz5 needles and a set of the restricted? cez1 750 needles looking at them a day before i seem to remember the profile on the 750 was thinner so that would in essence act like a dynojet needle? im lost i can either have a really annoying 1000+ flatspot or a pretty damned annoying 4000+ flatspot puzzled am i as what to do next cya soon carl
242 05/09/2006 01:14:41 seahag Re: flat spot at 4-5000rpm
243 05/09/2006 02:40:07 mike760 Re: flat spot at 4-5000rpm HI you most of you know FZ750's has a flat spot mainly around the 3500 to 5000rpm this is due to a few things not sufficent back pressure in the exhaust, carb's being a little dirty, but one thing no-one mention that i know of is the valve timing or cams. the valve opening and closeing times were design for top end riding(racing)and what a ride. i got few engines for parts and i had three sets of cams i got them two machine to different stages i wasn't told but i can work it out. i found changing the cam profile you are able set up the FZ750 engine to be more friendly but you lose about 10 to 20 horses up high but gain nice lower end power and wipes out the flat spot. now my second FZ750 never had a flat spot, partly it only got 6000km on it very rare find in such condition it only got now 12000km and still no flat spot and has a aftermarket 4/2/1 exhaust back from the year it came out. in all you valve lifters or gap are out or could be out. so if you want to remove the make up inserts for exhaust or change the cams profile for middle to lower end use just some words for you cheers mike760
244 06/09/2006 07:05:36 lurch Re: flat spot at 4-5000rpm Interesting - I'm pretty sure the 4-2-1 is the culprit for a lot of flat spots; as you say the engines were designed for reving/racing and the emphesis has to be on high end gas flow. I have sold mine on recently but got to really enjoy it despite the flat spot, Infact I got to try out a ThunderAce soon after and really liked it, so much so I took the chicken strips off the sides for the owner! The FZ's power delivery was nicer though and sweeter steering! A damn fine bike - but I'll keep the seat on my ZZR1100 any day over the FZ's.
245 16/07/2006 17:31:30 Weiner127 Some dyno #'s from my 85 FZ750/1029 Dyno'ed for the first time yesterday, happy with those #'s. 85 FZ 750/ 88Fzr1000 motor, 1029cc Wiseco, Kerker, Dynojet stage 3 Comments? [img][/img] [img][/img]
246 03/08/2006 18:38:57 85fz7505v Engine issues with the bike Hi, I own an 85 fz750. The engine seems to backfire alot (especially at night), I have a flat spot from around 2500-3300 RPM and the power just suddenly kicks in, and when I ride it I normally keep the revs to around 5000 RPM and I get around 100kms per tank. I fear the engine is running rich, but the shop I take it to doesn't think so. Any clues and ideas?
247 04/08/2006 07:44:22 oldman Re: Engine issues with the bike i might be well off with this but my bike had no power and misfired etc i found that one of the carb diaphrams had a hole in it i went to yamaha to get a new set thinking it would cost about ぺ i was told that each one came with the piston at a cost of ぺ5 each so i purchased a push bike tyre repair kit for ぴ and fixed the hole myself :-D job done the bike now runs fine hope this helps good luck
248 09/08/2006 04:44:06 ganepeil Re: Engine issues with the bike 86, rough math is that yer getting less than 1/2 the gas mileage typical for fz 700/750,s I'd look to float valves their sealing o-rings and needle/nozzles. while a flat spot is typical on non-exup genisis motors, it's not usually a light switch response. luck G
249 11/08/2006 07:40:29 Dutch Re: Engine issues with the bike Go to a proper shop that knows their '80s bikes! FZ should be able to get at least 300 km on a tank. I run about 20 km / liter (pls do the maths to miles per US/imperial Gallon yourselve :-D ). Some use more, but anything less than 16 km/l (10 m/l = ca. 40 mpg) is not very good. Could be several problems, does it run proper on all 4 pots, what can is on etc etc.
250 20/08/2006 06:47:57 85fz7505v Re: Engine issues with the bike It turns out that cylinder number 3 wasn't firing at under 3500 RPMS, then suddenly kicking in after 3500 RPMs. All the shop had to do was adjust the floats and needles because it was running hella rich. The bike is now considerably better than before, but the shop told me that the carbs are worn down (the bike has 85,000 clicks, that's right! eighty five thousand kilometres!!) so I still have a flat spot at the same low RPM as before just that it's not half as bad as before. Now the question is, how much would a new set of carbs cost around? How much work would it be for me if I had to rebuild it, considering I've never worked on a motorcycle before? EDIT- Yeah, you guys ARE right, the technicians working on my bike are ON CRACK! At least they fixed the problem for free though!
251 28/08/2006 02:15:43 mike760 Re: Engine issues with the bike Hi Before getting new carb's do a compression test to even get 100km out 16 litres or so does not mean carb's are running rich your cyclinders are running rich to try to replace the lost compression your rings or valves are leaking most likly on three cyclinders, your engine is gone and if done right to fix it here in australia would cost you $2500AUS dollars get another engine with the carb's for around $1000 dollars here. reason why i say it because i had another bike that has the same symptoms and it a compression was three perfect zero and 3/4 for the other from where it should be thing to watch when you ride you may notice just a little of black smoke come out every now and then best is for someone from behind while actually riding, if the bike was running rich for two hundred km drop in fuel usage would mean you bike is up to crap not a tuning problem or carb's problem so i say mechanics must of be on crack if they didn't do a simple compression test. i had 110 000 on my bike it about 15000 before that was showing very tiny signs until a big sign came meaning engine is so flooded that back fires come and the spark plugs getting too much fuel to fire, all the sign are there so do a compression test before purching anything. a lot of here are doing rebuilds i still going on second bike at the moment. so there people here if you get stuck might be better to buy another bike and fix this one up for fun and learning about the bike you have. cheers mike760
252 28/08/2006 13:05:44 Dutch Re: Engine issues with the bike 85FZ7505V, what exhaust is on your bike? With most aftermarket cans there is always a dip at low revs. How is the milage not the shop looked at it again? Cheers, Dutch
253 07/08/2006 02:12:08 robhar2 engine build hi guys im looking into building either a 911 engine, i have most of the bits ready, im wondering if anybody has done is before, what is the best way to do it, what other options do i have, i was also thinking along the lines of increasing the stroke of the 1000 genesis engine using different crank/rods etc whats the best way to go any ideas or info would be very much appreciated thanx carl
254 11/08/2006 07:43:44 Dutch Re: engine build Hello sradwxi, where are you from? 911's have been done before, used in the UK for racing. A stroker (750 bore, 1000 stroke) has also been done before, but unlike the 911 this runs quite poorly. FZ guru Ticeman wrote about it on the bbs long time ago :lol: Cheers, Dutch
255 11/08/2006 14:51:42 robhar2 Re: engine build hi mate, im from liverpool uk, this stroker, its a bad idea then, is that using a 1000 crank/rods inside 750 cases and a 750 head. ive been thinking of different ways to do it, is it possible to make something bigger than a 1000cc i.e. using the crank with the biggest throw, and using the barrels with the biggest bore, using the shortest conrods, which will give a very high compression and long stroke = big cc i know the 911 is tried and tested, and supposed to be very successful giving 145bhp???? im wondering if theres anyway to go better again ive got a load of engines here, 2 x split 1fn 750s 1 x split 88 thou, 1 x complete fzr750 import, and loads of other bits including thou carbs etc i have a 2mg cdi, a 1fn cdi (1ae), thinking about it i should be able to get something usable out of all that?? im missing a thou head gasket cya soon carl
256 14/08/2006 14:31:15 Dutch Re: engine build check out, from our FZ guru Tony Tice. He has done a major amount of work to his bike, 1k engine, bored, NOS, headwork etc... More ponies than most can handle :-D
257 22/08/2006 16:02:42 seahag Gaskets Hey guys, I just scored a few spare engines and would like to take them apart to see how good they are. Wondering what gaskets I can reuse and where a good place is to get gasket sets? Thanks =
258 24/08/2006 01:59:21 ganepeil Re: Gaskets seahag, have had good luck w/cleaning & painting metal gaskets (top cover and head) w/vht arisols. I replace base gaskets regardless of cond.simply because of the time and effort required to get there. side cover gskts if broken or deteriorated. gasket sets are avalible here in US from K&L and Comitech (include valve stem seals) at about $200.00 US. luck G
259 24/08/2006 18:26:18 85fz7505v revlimiter Just out of curiosity, when does the rev-limiter kick in? I've never taken it anywhere close to redline for fear that I might blow the engine.
260 25/08/2006 04:27:48 ganepeil Re: revlimiter 85, on both my 750 and 1000 ECU cuts spark on 2 cyls at 11 k rpm exactly.(according to tach)feeling is like rock hitting once you've heard it you know exactly what's happened. G.
261 28/08/2006 02:31:29 mike760 Re: revlimiter Hi do you have rev limited must be a overseas thing here in aus revlimited didn't come out until the ninety or was a special option my FZ750 85 doesn't have a rev limiter, most likey cut out cyclinder 2 and 3 on your bikes but i been past the 14000 mark on my current $500 dollar bike. i looking into the detail more i might adjust mine to have one but new engine rev freely to 12500 rpm after engine work done any if you got any news on the revlimiter i be glad to hear what was said. cheers mike760
262 28/08/2006 12:59:33 Dutch Re: revlimiter I'd say it feels like running out of gas :-D red zone starts at 11 grant, rev limiter cuts in at 12. Though in all my years of FZing, I ran into the limiter only a very few times. Power doesn't increase anymore and bike screams (for mercy or for more?) so good indication to find another gear 8-)
263 12/09/2006 05:42:50 mike760 New Carb's Hi guys i am thinking of replacing the carb's with a new set from keilin FCR size 35mm has anyone used new carb's on the FZ750 what do you guys think??
264 14/09/2006 04:03:32 kawrider05 cdi unit ne body got a 85 750 cdi unit #tid 14-39 layin around for sale or w/e. im having a hard time finding a know good localy. thanks rob
265 16/09/2006 17:39:36 Dutch Re: cdi unit Afaik the '85 and '86 CDI's are the same. '87> is different because it is designed to work with one pick-up (1AE: 2). Good luck, Dutch
266 20/09/2006 01:06:21 kawrider05 yet another problem i just fixed the problem i had w/ my #4 cylinder and now i think the ignition switch went out. i took out my key and the lights stayed on it starts and every thing w/ no key...can that be nething but the key switch?
267 20/09/2006 02:30:02 mike760 Re: yet another problem hi sound like it is culprit just check the wires down below for no cross overs cheers mike760
268 21/09/2006 08:35:09 Dutch Re: yet another problem I had a curious problem after swiching an engine: bike would start & run as usual, but turning off the ignition key would not stop the engine. Posted this in a very popular Dutch bike forum and (an FZ fan of all) came with the solution: the wires from the alternator were cross-connected! It was easy to stop the engine using the kill switch. I mention it nevertheless because it drains the battery when the bike isn't running. This isn't exactly good for the battery. :-( In your case it does sound like a rotten ignition. Can you take the key out in the 'on' position? I could :-o They are fairly easy to come by from FZ's broken for parts. Cheers, Dutch
269 21/09/2006 15:06:14 kawrider05 Re: yet another problem well no it still turns and works normally i thin i may have pinched some wires when i was putting the tank gonna check that in a bit...thanks for the help
270 02/10/2006 08:24:36 pr0sketch trying to start a 87fzr750 engine with a fz700 bike? hi i bought an 87fzr750 and i swapped it with my 87 fz700 bike. it does not start, i really dont know why. all parts are in working order, i even bought extras. maybe it would be the cdi? i have tid14- 48 and 58. maybe i need 68? im going crazy trying to figure out why it wont start, it just turnsover. well the main question is if i need to tweek things alittle to make the engine compatible. idk pls someone help me.
271 05/10/2006 04:03:43 ganepeil Re: trying to start a 87fzr750 engine with a fz700 bike? P. couple ?'s. am I right in you're putting a fz750 eng in a 700 chassis, and the 700 was running at the time. if so. no prob. drops right in, exhaust and coolant lines all fit,sprocket allignment ok, and since both were single pick-up models. should be a plug and go. if you have spark at all cyls at cranking, compresion and fuel,try this. the crank position sensor/pickup-coil has 3 leads. black=ground grey=feed to cdi orange =cdi Yamaha sometimes reversed the feeds of 1/4-2/3 in different applications. try swapping the orange and grey wires at the cdi. luck g.
272 05/10/2006 18:29:45 pr0sketch Re: trying to start a 87fzr750 engine with a fz700 bike? thank you ganepeil for your response. i did check both pick up coils the one the fzr750 originally had and the one that the fz700 engine had. both pick up coils have only a black and a grey wire to the terminal that connects to the cdi, i couldnt find the orange wire lead. Should i but a pickup coil that has the 3 leads, maybe from a fzr1000? thank you
273 05/10/2006 18:32:07 pr0sketch Re: trying to start a 87fzr750 engine with a fz700 bike? thank you ganepeil for your response. i did check both pick up coils the one the fzr750 originally had and the one that the fz700 engine had. both pick up coils have only a black and a grey wire to the terminal that connects to the cdi, i couldnt find the orange wire lead. Should i but a pickup coil that has the 3 leads, maybe from a fzr1000? thank you
274 06/10/2006 02:53:37 ganepeil Re: trying to start a 87fzr750 engine with a fz700 bike? p. have a 87 fz 750 which has 2 pick-op sensors. 1 on either side of crank. the wires from r/h sensor plug directly into cdi. while l/h plugs into a pig tail which enters harness which leads to cdi.and goes to a different post of cdi. when I swapped engines (750-1000) went from dual pick-up to single. and changed cdi boxes accordingly, but had to change feeds from crank sensor to get correct timing. thus my ? as to if you had spark at all cyls. as yam. used many cdis depending on on model and destination and the possibility of spark delivery being 180 degrees out. another quick check for this (if both engines were/are dual pick-up designs) would be swap connectors at ign. coils.and see if it starts. again this is only a viable test if you're getting spark. (as a side bar, the cdi sparks 1-4 coil simotaniously, then 2-3 again at the same time. 1 cyl getting fire on power stroke , the other getting a spark on an exhaust. hope this helps. G
275 06/10/2006 05:32:52 pr0sketch Re: trying to start a 87fzr750 engine with a fz700 bike? should i swap the 2 ignition coils or the two wires from the terminals? since my single sided pickup coil has two wires-the black and grey- should i switch it from: black_ Grey_ empty_ empty_ to: empty_ empty_ black_ Grey_ And i dont touch anything that goes to the cdi from the wiring harness: _ _ _ _ _ _ ?( it has 5 wires one is empty ) thanks again ganepeil! :-D
276 08/10/2006 01:15:38 ganepeil Re: trying to start a 87fzr750 engine with a fz700 bike? P, sorry for delay, re-read post and realize probly miss-read your' entry. thought were installing fz 750 eng to fz 700 chassis and wire harness. and incorrectly assumed that the fz700 used dual pickups as does my 1ae 750. further research in the archives of the shop show that the fz700t (87) (the only year offered in USA )used single pick-up (gray & black wires only) while fzr 750/fzx700/fzr1000 used single pick-ups but w 3 wires (grey orange and black)i'm uncertain as to hw a single pickup with only 2 wires would send a signal to the cdi which could be recognised as either 1-4 or 2-3. but would try this if your 700 was running before swap. put 700 pick-up in 750 eng. use 700 cdi/w orig. connections and chk for run. if not, (or get back-fire ) either reverse the positions of the grey and orange wires exiting the 6 port connector at the cdi or si=mply swap the plug in connectors going to the 1-4 /2-3 ignition coils. again.this is moot unless your' getting spark at plugs. all this hanky panky is doing is changing the time at which spark is being delivered to the relitive holes by 180 degrees rotation of the crank.luck g
277 08/10/2006 18:42:45 pr0sketch Re: trying to start a 87fzr750 engine with a fz700 bike? hi ganepeil, i put coil 1 on2 and coil 4 on3 i tried but no start. and also on the 6 port connector there was no grey but there was orange. i also tried starting fluid on the air box. do you have any other suggestions? maybe i did it wrong. maybe i need better carbs because i dont think it getting any fuel. fuel pump works, cdi, coils, everything works. maybe i should put the fzr750 cdi unit instead?
278 13/10/2006 05:12:08 pr0sketch Re: trying to start a 87fzr750 engine with a fz700 bike? hi ganepeil i was wondering. should i buy the cdi that is used for the fzr engine instead of the one im using which is the fz700? i tried starting fluid in my engine still wont work. i drained some engine oil because i put 1 1/2 its engine capacity. by the way will it damage my engine if i overfill the engine with motor oil. pls respond when u get the chance
279 13/10/2006 05:14:33 pr0sketch Re: trying to start a 87fzr750 engine with a fz700 bike? hi ganepeil i was wondering. should i buy the cdi that is used for the fzr engine instead of the one im using which is the fz700? i tried starting fluid in my engine still wont work. i drained some engine oil because i put 1 1/2 its engine capacity. by the way will it damage my engine if i overfill the engine with motor oil. pls respond when u get the chance
280 17/10/2006 16:40:32 Dutch Re: trying to start a 87fzr750 engine with a fz700 bike? Pr0sketch: trying to get the pic right. You bought an engine of an '87 FZR750 and put in '87 FZ700. [curious]Was the 700 engine broke or other reason [/curious]. FZR750 is basically an FZR1000 with FZ engine. R denotes deltabox frame. However it could be the engine in the FZR is the dual pick up type. Somewhere in the back of my head is something about this. In that case it should also have a pick up on the left side like an 1AE FZ750. Cheers, Dutch
281 19/10/2006 04:26:06 ganepeil Re: trying to start a 87fzr750 engine with a fz700 bike? Dutch and prO, research indicates the 700 was indeed a single p/u 2 wire unit. so, now we have 3 different configurations. twin pick-up, 2 wire single pick-up and 3wire single pick-up. have no experiance with the 700's 2 wire single pickup. so am at a loss. my best guess would be try proper cdi for new eng. and verify 1st , spark at both coils (and all 4 cyls) then if no start swap 1'4 2'3 feeds to coils. oil over fill not a problem since bike won't start.( if run over filled could blow out seals, but usually just fills airbox w/oil and saturates air filter.) again, do you have spark at all 4 ? since single p/u must have 2 triggers (possibly of different gaps ) am hesitant to recommend a costly cdi if problem lies in wet plugs or the numerous other possibilities. worry about carbs after eng. will support life. wd 40 or carb cleaner down intakes will verify if it's gonna run or not.luck G
282 11/10/2006 05:29:54 mike760 FZ750 engine in another production bike Hi All just some information that came to my attension just the other day. A bike of Bimota used the FZ750 engine and was known to prduce 130HP with about 100 at the rear. The bike was Bimota YB4 has any one seen or rode the bike to compare it to the actual FZ750. The article i was reading said it was a gem to ride FZ750 also. Apparently very few bike was made the bike came out in 1987 or 88. The bike was made to race in the superbike catorgory now supersport i think. can any one shed any light on this. PS can go on my dream bike list well nearly all bike good be on the list. cheers mike760
283 17/10/2006 16:47:32 Dutch Re: FZ750 engine in another production bike [img][/img]
284 11/10/2006 05:47:59 slipmatt ignitor Hi My friend has a fz750...she had an engine with 2 pickups...but got a replacement.Its sinle pick up. Anyone got a single pick up ignitor? cheers steve
285 16/01/2007 20:49:51 mike760 Re: ignitor Hi did you find a single pick ign there plenty around or about 10 000 + i guess should be able to get one some where, best way to find out is to know what model engine is now in Like 1AE or my one is 1FU engine will have the model number. can't remember what was in the post but there ways of getting around it was a fairly poopular topic look in archive around september last year i think for useful knowledge. cheers Mike760
286 23/10/2006 05:54:35 pr0sketch finally! the 87'fzr750engine starts on the 87fz700 ? thanks alot ganepeil for your help and your information. i finally got the engine to start. what i did was take out all the spark plugs and put starting fluid inside them. then i put them back on. so i started it and then i tried to fire now i knew that it was the carbs that needed the work so i bought a good used set from a 85fz750. it does start but it takes a a while to start i need to feed it starting fluid and ive got to set the idle speed high. i dont know what this means but it seems bad. im thinking i need the right cdi and correct carb jet sizes what do u think. because before i start the bike i pull the choke all the way up, idle speed high and throttle open. is that corrrect. and also the battery, its currently charging. maybe that could be one of the problems.
287 24/10/2006 04:36:58 mike760 Re: finally! the 87'fzr750engine starts on the 87fz700 ? hi you find that the FZ750 Carb's can't supply enough fuel to the FZR engine there a 2mm difference to begin with. so you need to rejet the FZ750 carbs and sync them. so you may want to stage 3 the carbs bike running lean hence the high ide hope it help a little. cheers mike760
288 30/10/2006 17:38:13 Dutch Re: finally! the 87'fzr750engine starts on the 87fz700 ? Don't worry about the diameter of the carbs. Bigger carbs are good for top end, smaller ones have -as rule of thumb- better low and mid range performance. So it definatly has nothing to do with you troublesome start & idle. I always start with choke out but not touching the throttle. Maybe when it has stood for a while I turn the throttle ones before starting, but not when pushing the starter button as it can flood the bike.
289 30/10/2006 17:50:14 Dutch Re: finally! the 87'fzr750engine starts on the 87fz700 ? Don't worry about the diameter of the carbs. Bigger carbs are good for top end, smaller ones have -as rule of thumb- better low and mid range performance. So it definatly has nothing to do with you troublesome start & idle. I always start with choke out but not touching the throttle. Maybe when it has stood for a while I turn the throttle ones before starting, but not when pushing the starter button as it can flood the bike.
290 31/01/2007 18:18:41 fz750scott Swap or rebuild??Should i take the chance?? I got a free 85 FZ750 motor from a buddy. I know the bike the motor was off and i know it wasn't tore all to hell. The motor has 17000km on it. The motor was run with the oil light on for about 60km and then my buddy realized it and put oil in it. 2 hours later he was driving and 4 of the 5 valves let go. They dropped into cylinder 4 and beat the piston all to hell. 2 Vavlves were found in the exhaust, 1 in the carbs along with alot of shavings and one laying in the crankcase. It was never tore up by the crank. Question: Since i found all the valves and the crank still moves freely should i take the chance on a MUCH cheaper rebulid OR drop the ol' FZR1000 into it.
291 01/02/2007 08:06:35 Dutch Re: Swap or rebuild??Should i take the chance?? 17K on a 20 year old bike :-) and then someone doesn't respond to the oil light :-? Sure the oil has ever been refreshed in those years? Would almost want to say "too bad there isn't a pill for stupidity", but that would be cruel, specially since I don't know the bloke at all. As for your Q: what can you do yourselve, what parts do you have acces to, what do you want to archive (classic look or powerrrrr). You have to A that Q yourselve :-D Greetz, Dutch
292 02/02/2007 04:30:11 ganepeil Re: Swap or rebuild??Should i take the chance?? Scott. since valve heads were passed thru seats, head is gone. as is rod, piston and cam chain with probable damage to cams, tensioner, cyl,cam towers &buckets and crank. in the biz, we call this "catastrophic engine failure" If you're an affectionado of fz's you might strip it dowwn and keep bits. cases,trans,waterpump,clutch may be usefull if anyone ever sorts out the 888 911 916 hybrid line. or to sell on ebay. as a guess, for a handy fellow shopping right on ebay and with a good connection at dealer might make your' free eng a runner for @ a grand and 15-20 hours of play-time. luck G 8-)
293 03/02/2007 21:13:23 fz750scott Re: Swap or rebuild??Should i take the chance?? speaking of ebay connections...your the highest bidder on my fz700 fairings. akward... well happy bidding.
294 04/02/2007 22:00:28 ganepeil Re: Swap or rebuild??Should i take the chance?? Fzscott, Not at all.If i should win bid, we'll both be winners. I'm presently running a set of Lockhart lowers purchaced from gaillarry from this site a rear ago. and painted to match your' scheme, and have been shopping for OE's for almost 2 years. They're elusive.and bidding goes nuts during the last minutes.we'll know in a couple hours. If I should win, You'll have contributed to a worthy cause. while it appears to be a stock 87 fz700, the 7-10 houses an 88 fzr1000 mill, w wisco 1030 kit,fzx 6speed trans,91 fzr1000 carbs, gsxr1100 wheels/brakes and exup headers &cdi. at 132 hp not the meanest scooter out there, but gives me a lot of satisfaction. and swiveled heads are worth the price of admission. thanks for good wishes.G 8-)
295 04/02/2007 22:23:41 fz750scott Re: Swap or rebuild??Should i take the chance?? Very nice. just curious, whats your top speed? and what are you gearing it as (sprocket wise)
296 05/02/2007 03:00:27 fz750scott Re: Swap or rebuild??Should i take the chance?? Will an FZR 600 engine work as a swap?
297 05/02/2007 04:07:13 ganepeil Re: Swap or rebuild??Should i take the chance?? Scott, I gear at 19/46. swinging a 120/60 17 front and 180/55-17 rear. have never seen redline in 6th and speedo runs out of #'s at 145 and I run out of huevoes shortly thereafter. would guess seen @ 160. but gearing high allows for @ 4k rpm at freeway speeds w/close ratio to play in canyons.since I've seen fzr400 w'1000 eng, and 4-6's are common,would say that a 600 transplant is possible, but since the 6 is an upright 4 valve and genesis motors cant at 20+degrees, doubt if it's a drop-in. ebay stores show cheap cranks/cyls/heads avail. for rebuilding yer 750, tho a pre exup thou. motor is straight drop in and offers about 40 extra hp while retaining stock reliability and manners. wish I'd won your' lowers, guess I'm still shopping.G :-(
298 16/03/2007 08:13:42 pr0sketch 87fzr750 or 88fz750 engine on a 87fz700 bike so i read from this site that the 87fzr750 engine is the same as a 88fz750. i bought carbs from a 88fz750, engine no. 3BU- what it says on my engine. i took a while to fix because i replaced some of the carb parts with good ones but i found out it dudnt maintain an idle because the needle valve gasket was worn. so i replaced and it is fine the bike still runs sluggish but beter than the 85fz750 carbs i was using for about 170 miles. i then adjusted the float arm to the best as a i can. does anyone know whats the problem. maybe the valve clearance, has just over 10,000 miles? maybe the transmission. when i accellerate it stutters for a bit. maybe i need to set the arms so more fuel can come.
299 17/03/2007 04:03:57 ganepeil Re: 87fzr750 or 88fz750 engine on a 87fz700 bike pro, valve clearances usually manifest themselves w/ hard starting. trans problems are apparent in individual gears. for street applications all fz/fzr carbs interchangable from 85-mid 90's. float levels while important to mixture ratio in attitude changes are not jetting tools. if your' problem is a stutter, (not just the typical flat spot of pre-exup) would warrent you've swapped one set of dirty carbs for another. if you're running stock head pipes, there are individual ports for reading ega #'s which will indicate where/if carberation is at fault. if your' a wagerin' man, send me your' old carbs, I'll go thru 'em and put 'em on my bike, record a dyno run and return. you'll have to cover shipping and parts if neccisary. but if it cures problem, I'll expect a dozen roses sent to me at work with a card. Gary Peil c/o Colorado Powersports 1880 55th st.Boulder co.80301 p.s include bikes cc, any airbox /exhaust mods, altitude and ambient temps and I'll even try to get jetting close. G
300 17/03/2007 03:04:47 pr0sketch carb problem i think well i reset the float arms so it not bending either arm. so when i start the bike it starts and i set the idle to about 1,000 -1,500 rpm and it idles for about a minute and then it looses power, but before i let the engine stop i open the throttle and i set the idle adjustment higher. then it idles at 2,000rpm for like 5 seconds and cuts out. so i wait for like one hour thinking that the engine is flooded and then i try to start the bike, no luck, i cant even hear it try to want to fire up. i then take the carbs out ,i drain the gas, inspect the needle valve gaskets. everything looked good. i cant make out any problems. so i put the carbs back in let gas pump in and it starts!!! but does the same thing!!!it eventually cuts out and when it does i cant start it back again. any suggestions?
301 17/03/2007 04:44:54 ganepeil Re: carb problem i think pro, another common prob is one conjoined w/ fuel pump relay/sender /cdi/reserve sw. try putting on reserve. this prob. is typically one of intermittant fuel delivery.and usually circumvented by swithching to reserve,in spite of lots of fuel in tank. usually a run run run bahhh varioty. swithching to reserve for 4-8 seconds and fuel pump refills floats and yer a runner again. still not usually a drivability issue, as when it runs your' good, and when It has decided your' out of gas, well. your' out of gas.Yamaha for some reason decided that in spite of fuel guage we need a reserve, and since petcock is nearly inaccessible incorperated an electric, there is a fuel level sensor (seperate from guage sender) in tank.which "talks to fuel pump" via fuel pump relay/cdi. if it or relay goes on hiatus. fuel pump quits pumping until switched to reserve (thru another relay) and activates pump. if you listen closely you'll hear pump cycle every time you cycle ign sw. if things are proper. there's an excellen post in on this topic. luck G.
302 17/03/2007 08:13:23 pr0sketch thanks ganepeil !!! well when i was ridding the 85fz750 carbs it ran sluggish used up alot of gas but started everytime, i always had to adjusted the idle know to lower rpm the longer i rode it because it wanted to climb the rpm when it warmed up. it would always idle at about 3,000 it never idled at one spot. and it would stick even when i lubricated the throttle cable. for 160 miles using this carb would it damage the spark plugs? and maybe it effected the valve clearance? 85fz750 carbs- (4) piston needles 5cez2 (4) main jet 105 idle air screw set to 1 3/4 turn out 88fz750(or 87fzr750)carbs- cylinders 1 and 4- 5cz6 2 and 3- 5cz2 main jet - 1 and 4 - 107.5 2 and 3 - 107 idle air - factory set. when i put the 88 carbs to normal setting put it on the bike let gas pump in and started right up. i tried to ride it on first gear and half a block later i accerated and slowly climbed down the rpm. seemed like no gas was going in. when i tried to start it again i couldnt even hear it try to fire up after alot of tries even with battery recharged. so i took off the gas tank and the air cleaner and the slides had alot of gas still in it, some was sitting on the throttle plates. so i tried to start it but no difference, some gas squirted out. so i take the carbs out which was full of gas when i opened the float bowls and drained the gas. then i stuck it back on the bike. let gas pump in and started right up. set idle to 1,000. it idled for 20 seconds then it very slowly wanted to die out. but turned the knob a little and went all the way to 2,000 then now it really wanted to slow down. i wounded it up to keep it from cuting out. maybe there is not enough gas getting in? i need to set the float arms again. at what rpm is good to set the bike. 1,000? thank you ganepeil for reading and helping out alot!!!
303 19/03/2007 04:41:11 pr0sketch fuel supply i think the problem for some reason is the fuel pump. i read the article on fuel controler on and it describes what happens to my bike. it tells us that to bypass the disfunction i connect the red/white wire from the cdi box to the blue wire on the gas pump, it would have 12v continuously on the gas pump. i was wondering if my bike would be safe to ride if i did do a bypass?
304 24/03/2007 09:51:06 lilfzr76 Re: fuel supply have a fuel pump for u from my running fz750 that im partin out if u want it and dont want to mess with your bike. let me know or i will be postin on ebay in about a week. thanks tony
305 19/03/2007 23:11:57 pr0sketch anyone know how to bypass the fuel controller correctly? well the controller is the cdi right? so i read the article on and i tried to do it so. i cut the red/white wire going to the cdi and i cut the black and blue wire from the gas pump. i soldered a pair female and male to the ends to each of the two wires i cut so when i want that 5 second start up i could put the wires back to the way they were. now the i soldered a wire together a female connector on one end and a male on the other end. to "bypass" i first put connect the red/white wire from the cdi to the bridge wire and bridge it to the black and white wire. Must the gas connector be connected to the harness at all times? i dont know what wires to bridge?
306 20/03/2007 03:12:50 pr0sketch Re: anyone know how to bypass the fuel controller correctly? and also i need to mention that the black ground wire from the 3 wires from the level sender from the tank is torn apart, i did try to fix it. I bridged the red and blue wire to start the radiator fan. and i disconnected the side stand switch but the relay is still connected. would all these imperfections cause the fuel pump to malfunction? it did work when i used the 85fz750carbs but it was running hela rich. I wanted to know where the gas pump relay is?
307 20/03/2007 01:41:28 fz750scott Need a list of available years I know you have heard this thread a few times but i'm in need of a complete list of ALL MOTORS and ALL YEARS of motors available for a streight drop in on an 85' 750 frame. I've got a few 1000's i'm looking at but i dont know exactly what years fit. P.S. - Looking for years 85-20?? please Thank you, Forbes
308 21/03/2007 01:50:35 lilfzr76 starter issues need help so when i try to start this fz750 86 that i just picked up it tries to crank but then it makes a really nasty sound of like gears grindin badly. I think its my starter gears but dont really know. Ima take it apart once i get my clymers manual from amazon. what could it be. where can i find replacement starter gears. which other bike models have the same starter gears so i can find them easier. thanks
309 23/03/2007 03:45:47 ganepeil Re: starter issues need help l, you might get lucky, and have bad starter motor. fz/fzx/ starters/ use a convoluted starter clutch which is relitivly problem free but resides inside of cases and require complete teardown to service. luck g>
310 23/03/2007 04:13:20 ganepeil Re: starter issues need help before you go further. remove sparkplugs and make sure crank turns freely. starter probs. while happen are not the most frequent. a leak down check might give some insight. luck G
311 23/03/2007 07:19:06 lilfzr76 Re: starter issues need help thanks for the advice actually today i took out the starter and it seems to be in very good condition seems to be gettin spark though but it makes a really nasty sound after crankin for a while and sometimes right when it cranks. i looked inside the hole that the starter goes in and that gear seems to be good too. i think im going to have to tear it down soon ne ways i will change the spark plugs too. thanks and more help is also appreciated.
312 23/03/2007 07:39:30 lilfzr76 partin my whole bike soon!!! looks like this project will be too much for me i will be selling parts next week so if you have any parts off of this bike let me know. i have an 86 no side fairings no windscreen. have everything else i will let u guys have first crack at it before i post on ebay. lots of these parts are discontinued so might as well get them if you need them or for back ups. more parts you buy the better deal i can give you plus i can combine shipping.
313 24/03/2007 12:02:24 lilfzr76 Re: partin my whole bike soon!!! most parts on ebay now go check them out if i have not listed then ask me for other parts
314 09/04/2007 02:22:09 lilfzr76 Re: partin my whole bike soon!!! have cdi/digital ignitor for 100.00 plus shipping. have complete front end with brakes no master. complete rear with shock and very good tire. complete brake set up for the rear.
315 29/03/2007 07:04:58 pr0sketch fuel problem fixed!!! finnally i fixed my fuel supply problem. i did not need to bypass anything. the two breather holes that comes out of the carburetors were clogged, you see i used the tubes that were meant for the airbox and that was a bad idea althought it didnt affect it back then. now it runs like a cured bike. now all i need is a belly pan and a seat cowl.
316 18/04/2007 05:32:24 85fz7505v Getting rid of flat spots? Hi I own an 85 fz750, I have read that it is normal to have a flatspot around 3000 RPM or so. Now I heard that a few jet kits or whatever would help get rid of it (dynojet jet kits, factory pro, dial-a-jet). What would be the cheapest and easiest way to get rid of the flat spot? Would the pilot jets be plugged as well? How would I go about cleaning them? Thanks in advance. BTW, what is the float height suppose to be (It doesn't list in my manual)?
317 29/04/2007 08:45:45 fzpilot Re: Getting rid of flat spots? [quote] 85fz7505v wrote: BTW, what is the float height suppose to be (It doesn't list in my manual)?[/quote] go here and download the owners manual(quite large) in the carb section it lists the float height. cheers Ben.
318 06/05/2007 03:21:39 85fz7505v Re: Getting rid of flat spots? Ah, which page?
319 07/05/2007 09:00:28 fzpilot Re: Getting rid of flat spots? page 5-1 on the same pic as the exploded view of carbs. top right corner, staring right at you "A FUEL LEVEL" see it now?:-D cheers Ben.
320 28/04/2007 18:12:40 alcopaulic Screws on top rim of carbs First off i want to say thank you to all the top posters on here, reading all of your responses to the various questions posted on here, has really gotten my 86 fz750 in good running shape. But now i have a problem. There are near microscopic screws on the top rim of my carbs that i believe are air idle jets. 2 of them fell out and i know at least one got sucked into, and spit out of the engine. The other has gone missing :( I didn't think this was a big deal, just go to a yamaha dealer and get more. But i cannot seem to find out what they are, or what number they are on the blown up schematic of the carbs. When i brought one in to my local yamaha dealer they said they couldn't even order it. So now i am stuck, the bike won't run (very well) without them, and i NEED to ride. So what do i do? Where can i get them? or what are they called? thanks alot to any response i get.
321 29/04/2007 09:04:22 fzpilot Re: Screws on top rim of carbs cant help bar to say you may have to rip them out of another carb. cheers Ben [img][/img]
322 07/05/2007 19:05:34 ganepeil Re: Screws on top rim of carbs Al, If missing bits are as Ben surmizes main and pilot air jets, offer this.the 87 FZR1000 runs a similar configuration carb.and while it's main air jet is in a different location, the pilot is in same. and chances are good that they use the same series of air jets. their respective P/N's are 3G2-14231-13-00 for #65 main air jet, and 830-14231-23-00 for #115 pilot air jet. I don't have a fz750 shop manual,but stock sizes for FZR750RT are #65 and 117.5 respectivly. tho pricebook here didn't list a 117.5. if you pull jets from an ajoining carb, sizes will be stamped on them. if not same sizes, have your' parts guy look in the price book (if he'll admit to having one)under the 3g2-14231------ and 830-14231---- P/N series, the book lists jet sizes in description. otherwise as Fzpilot suggests junk carbs are an option.hope this helps, Luck G
323 27/09/2008 13:21:14 tom86fz750 Re: Screws on top rim of carbs hey buddy. I know exactly what screws you are referring to. When using the Yamaha parts fiche diagrams, they appear to be non existent. Them screws are called "Air pilot jets" and the factory size is .120. I was able to obtain them from a company called SUDCO.COM out of CA. good luck bro' tomfz86750
324 14/05/2007 11:31:45 fzpilot airbox did a silly thing today. had tank off to check if hose camps were tight on top of carbs,2 & 3 were off. would tighten up but still loose. tookoff air box (doh!). now for the life of me i can't get the bugger back on. rubbers have shrunk. i think the rubbers on 1 & 4 were hold the others down. definatly not sealing to well. looks like i'm up for new rubbers. has any one got a mod for this as i think pods may be just as chep as yamaha parts, but i don't want to rejet. thanks in advance Ben. :-(
325 14/05/2007 11:34:25 fzpilot airbox did a silly thing today. had tank off to check if hose clamps were tight on top of carbs,2 & 3 were off. would tighten up but still loose. tookoff air box (doh!). now for the life of me i can't get the bugger back on. rubbers have shrunk. i think the rubbers on 1 & 4 were holding the others down. definatly not sealing to well. looks like i'm up for new rubbers. has any one got a mod for this as i think pods may be just as cheap as yamaha parts, but i don't want to rejet. thanks in advance Ben. :-(
326 19/05/2007 04:01:16 ganepeil Re: airbox Ben, offer these. depending on age and state of snorkles. if you can squeese 'em without cracking, and they return to shape, are candidates for boiling water/hair dryer treatment. if they have turned to stone, immersion in carb clean for exteneded time will either temporarilly soften or reduce to goo, if they crack, they're history anyway. unless you're racing, the stock airbox is the way to go. asside from the noise individuals make, midrange suffers on pre-exups especially when velocity stacks are eliminated.(the intake tubes inside airbox) have had some degree of luck in treating w/ armorall and letting sunlight soften bits. (on a hundred degree day should be plyable) luck G
327 20/05/2007 10:37:27 fzpilot Re: airbox Thanks G, went out and got new ones. difference was amazing. thought they were wrong size at first, at least 5mm different diameter. then i tried one and it just slipped on sweet. fitted them to the airbox and it just sort of fell on so to speak. tightend clamps and they have plenty to adust up yet. idles and runs a lot smoother now. price wasn't as bad as i thought either $35.90AUD each. got them for $27.50AUD each with discount. very happy now. :lol: .thanks again. cheers Ben. :-D
328 22/05/2007 13:03:20 dublet Identification wanted Hello guys, I have found a Yamaha engine in my garage, and I'm suspecting it's the engine from an FZ750. Could you guys please verify this? [img][/img] [img][/img] [img][/img] [img][/img] If it is, I'll be needing your lot's help quite a lot over the next few months. :-D
329 23/05/2007 03:27:41 ganepeil Re: Identification wanted Dublet, 2MG eng # would be fz750 euro from 87-90. double 00 prefix would be early,I'd guess 1987, perhaps a visit to would provide more insight. got any plans? luck G
330 23/05/2007 08:37:51 dublet Re: Identification wanted All right. So I guess that means the engine has [url=]these specs[/url], if I get it back to good nick, of course. :-D Now, you'll have to forgive me, because I'm more of a car nut than I am a bike nut. I don't know much about bike engines, but I know about car ones. Also, I'm very much into my Toyotas, which I guess helps, since Yamaha has made the cylinder heads for most Toyota engines. :) What I would like to do with this engine is to put it into a very small old car, along the vein of a Fiat 500, or something similar. Wolf in sheep's clothing concept. 8-) I think putting this engine in a car which will weigh about 500kg when I'm done with it is a brilliant (i.e. crazy) idea. That means somewhere in the region of 200HP per tonne, which would be quite quick for an old Fiat. :-D What I would like to know is how the gearbox on this engine works, preferably I'd like to get my mitts on an engine manual (or the bike manual with the engine bits in it). So far, what I think I need to get it running is: -A fuel tank with some fuel (standard gasoline, I take it?) -Carburetters -Exhaust system -Clutch cable -Throttle cable -A good overhaul of the engine to ensure it's all lubed up and in good condition -Ignition Am I right, or am I missing bits? Really the first question that needs answering is whether it's viable to get the engine running again, or am I better off selling it to an FZ750 enthusiast?
331 23/05/2007 18:36:46 Dutch Re: Identification wanted I'm with Ganepeil, 2MG refers to a 88-90 FZ750 engine. The gearbox, as on almost any bike, is a sequential one. If it is worth resurrecting? Why is it in a garage and not in a bike? Maybe some gears (sp 2 & 6 are relativaly vunerable) are in bad nick or the bearing of the output shaft is gone... Those are the only two more-than-average weak point in an FZ.
332 23/05/2007 20:28:13 dublet Re: Identification wanted I guess I need to take it apart and check it then. :-)
333 27/05/2007 03:31:48 ganepeil Re: Identification wanted dublet. is there a script for what your' on?
334 30/08/2007 09:50:32 texasFZ Re: Identification wanted Hi there, Just wondering if anyone on here has attempted fitting a YZF r6 rear end to a FZ 750? I have just bought one and I am gonna try it! Would be grateful for any help, Andy
335 12/06/2007 22:41:15 ohwoody Compression? How much compression should each cylinder have on a 1986 fzx700? The shop I took to said I am only getting 40psi on each cylinder and it needs new cylinders.He gave an estimate of $1600us.I find this hard to believe,I am not getting any smoke from the exhaust.I took it to be repaired for hard starting when cold.Only would start by push starting.Once started the bike would run fine with lots of power.Would start and run fine while warm,but when cool have to push to start.I figured it would be something with the choke or valves.Help please.I am not sticking another $1600 into it.
336 16/06/2007 04:07:09 ganepeil Re: Compression? woody,not intimate w/fazers, but since engines are almost identical w/ fz's offer these. 1st. expected compression should be 140- 160 psi per hole w/variance < than 10% from 1 to all. most engines require at least 90 psi compression to support life (per hole) at all. lack of smoke and ability to restart warm seem to indicate adaquate valve clearance and suficient ring sealing. tight valve clearances get worse when warm. and worn rings smoke. I"ve seen where coddled bikes which have been allowed to set have developed carbon deposits in cyl heads which break loose and end up on valve seats dropping compresion. valves/ reconditioning at @ 20 bucks a pop , could easily be 800 in head work. pistons and rings that again in parts. or, you might try what we call in the biz steam cleaning. I cannot reccommend or be held responsible for this action, but if one were to inject water to the intake tract of a running engine it seems logical that the water would be converted to steam. possibly blowing out debris.and allowing proper valve sealing. on the other hand, if somehow cams have jumpe time and youve, got bent valves. sorry;. G
337 16/06/2007 08:26:35 Dutch Re: Compression? If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Agree that too little or no valve clearance would result in bad start when warm. Wouldn't hurt to check though, better if you can do it yourselve, it takes time and time is expensive. How easy does it start when push started? Have you tried jump starting with a (car) battery? How is the voltage over the battery? That would be my first suspect: engine warm also means battery fresly charged. Engine cold means a bad battery has had time to loose power. Good luck, Dutch
338 14/07/2007 02:43:18 texasFZ cant find carbs:-( Well like it says, i just picked up a 1986 FZ750 for $150, all i need are carbs, starter, gear box cover, gas cap, and shifter lever, im in the MN area so im not having any luck with finding parts but if anyone knows of anyone in that area that would be freakin awsome cause its my first bike, if i posted in wrong section im sorry, i didnt see a wanted fourm.
339 14/07/2007 08:17:51 Dutch Re: cant find carbs:-( no worries about section, it's not so formal here :-) Welcome to the FZ world, hope you are going to enjoy your new project. As for parts, maybe someone will respond who has the parts (e.g. from an enigine with gearbox problems) or can give a hint. Otherwise keep an eye out on ebay and other sites like that. also has a sales/wanted section, you might check it if some parts are offered. Cheers, Dutch
340 23/07/2007 03:19:46 texasFZ Re: cant find carbs:-( Fzkato, From Mankato I would guess. Hi. Just joined this forum. I'm in Coon Rapids,Mn. I have a 1986 FZ. Carbs may be a little difficult to find. Try Sport Wheels in Jodan. They do have some FZ bikes there. Mine had a broken idle mixture screw. I have everything fixed now but I think the fuel pump is bad. Bike dies at stop lights and is sometimes hard to start. I think it's going to be a fun bike.
341 18/07/2007 00:08:37 alcopaulic How fat IS a fat blue spark. Ok, Thanks for the help on my last post, it wasn't the answer i wanted to hear but i got a set of carbs off ebay for about 60 bucks (+20 shipping) for 2 microscopic screws. Once i got those in The bike was going good, revved smooth, revved hard, and i love it. Then i didn't get a chance to ride for about a week, it got rained on and would start, but barely run. So i dumped the old gas in the tank. replaced it with new gas. Replaced the fuel filter. Took the new plugs out, checked them for signs of richness, lean, you know. They all looked great. Figured since it got rained on it could be electrical, so i checked the spark on 2 plugs from opposite coils. They spark blue, not orange, but a faded blue. I'm going to keep going here to give as much info as possible since this bike never seemed to really run right. After i checked the spark i decided to check the boots on the top of carbs for airbox. they never really fit good. so i boiled them, got them soft, and got a good seal. The bike runs and rides now, but not like before, it's slow, plain and simple. takes forever to get up to speed. Doesn't really bog, sputter, or anything, just doesn't seem to pull.Before I let the bike sit and get rained on, I got it all tuned up for summer i rebuilt the carbs, syncronized them, and basically checked everything i could to make sure it ran good. And even though the bike was fast, pulled hard, and revved good, at idle it was a bit whacky. It would idle fine at 2k, but anytime it dipped below that it would go to maybe 1k, get weaker and weaker and eventually just die. So basically the spark plugs look fine The carbs were rebuilt but i suppose i could check them again. And now that i got a good seal with those boots i could always synch again. But after that i'm out of ideas. Thanks for reading all of this and any help is always appreciated.
342 18/07/2007 08:19:41 fzpilot Re: How fat IS a fat blue spark. buy some new plugs , they're cheap and thjen you can rule them out as a problem. cheers Ben. ps. if your air filter boots didn't fit b4, andf you got them on now it will be richer.
343 18/07/2007 23:38:33 alcopaulic Re: How fat IS a fat blue spark. The plugs were replaced at about the same time as the carbs rebuilt, maybe 3 months old. and only 400 miles on them.
344 20/07/2007 00:30:28 alcopaulic Re: How fat IS a fat blue spark. Thanks for everyone who looked, but i solved the problem. I took the covers off the carbs took all the jets out, found that nothing was clogged. Figured i might as well go further so i pulled that shaft that the main jet screw sits on top of off to see if it was clogged and found a little ring of plastic in 3 out of 4. Checked my backup carbs they didn't have the plastic so i picked it out. put it back together and OH.. MY.. GOD.. with the carbs sealed tightly for the first time, and the jets clear this thing is freakin FAST. (all stock by the way) So once again, thanks for everyone who looked and tried to solve my problem.
345 22/07/2007 14:12:58 alcopaulic Next Question: Starter turns to mush after the bike is warm. When i start the bike up for the day, the starter turns over just fine. Sounds normal. But after riding for a bit, and lets say i stop for fuel, turn the bike off, then re-start it, the starter just grinds, almost sounds like it's spinning freely, not engaging etc. Any suggestions? (other than push starting it)
346 25/07/2007 00:30:15 85fz7505v Re: Next Question: Starter turns to mush after the bike is warm. Wow, that problem sounds just like mine! Except I can't even get it to crank in the first place.
347 23/07/2007 03:09:53 texasFZ Fuel pump Hi Guys, Bought an FZ a little while ago. Want know about the fuel pump. I disconnect the output hose and turn on ignition. The pump runs and pumps for a few seconds and then stops. Souldn't it run until I shut the ignition off or it builds up pressure?
348 23/07/2007 11:18:00 fzpilot Re: Fuel pump hi Biker . the fuel pump only runs at a couple of psi. it runs for five second b4 shutting off if enginge is not running. cheers Ben
349 22/09/2007 06:41:41 mike760 Pistons and differences hi does anybody know the paint codes for the early fz750 silver and red model thanks in advance
350 27/09/2007 04:44:06 Chris74 Re: Pistons and differences Hi Mike, I just joined up. I have a '87 and my measurements from the bottom of the cylinder to the top is exactly 80mm or 3.150". On a similar note, you wouldn't happen to know anything about using 1000 cylinders on the 750 to make a 911? I have heard that it's been done but haven't been able to dig anything up on the net. Someone told me they just drop on but the fzr1000 has a larger stroke than the 750 so I don't see how this combination would work without using different rod lengths or piston pin heights. :-x
351 28/09/2007 06:39:20 mike760 Re: Pistons and differences Hi Mate thanks for the measurement the stroke doesn't change only the bore and a lot of people put on the 1000 barrels and heads on. about all major parts can be interchange on the FZ's to FZR's from what ever cc's one good thing about them. you find heap of information on this site do a search on 1000 head or barrels and it show you everything to do with it. also there modification page for that on the net link of this website. which is the other side of this site. with many other useful bit information. Cheers Mike760
352 02/10/2007 04:12:06 Chris74 Re: Pistons and differences Thanx Mike, I'll start digging!
353 23/09/2007 16:07:19 FZBlack Syncing Carbs Works Wonders!!!!!!!!! vibration is the name of the game!!! :lol: Geoff :pint:
354 03/10/2007 09:27:52 Golaser Cam Chain Tension Hi Guys, I am new to the FZ750 having recently acquired one. Everything appears to work well and it is a great bike that just loves to go hard. The motor has a rattle when sitting there idling, and from my car motor experiences, it sounds like a loose cam chain. As I don't have a workshop manual for the mighty FZ750, could someone please give me instructions on how to adjust the cam chain tensioner. Alternatively, is there a copy of the workshop manual that I can download from somewhere. Many thanks, Robert
355 24/10/2007 17:43:53 FZ750Horse Re: Cam Chain Tension FZs aren't known for cam chain problems and the tensioner is automatic anyway. They are prone to the bearing behind the clutch drum failing and this makes a similar noise - it disappears when the revs get over 1200 or so. The Clymer manual is generally OK.
356 26/10/2007 08:00:46 Golaser Re: Cam Chain Tension Thank you for that info. Where do you get the Clymer manual?
357 26/10/2007 18:33:56 FZ750Horse Re: Cam Chain Tension eBay! :-D or you can probably still order one from Amazon or somewhere...
358 04/10/2007 21:25:20 fz-andy carb sizes Hi, Just wondering if anyone knows the size of the carbs on the FZ 750 1989 Genesis model so I can upgrade the filters to k&n or similar? Cheers, Andy
359 23/11/2007 03:52:31 fz750scott FZR1000 Cams to 750 head? Can you swap cams from fzr1000 to a fz750 head and engine?
360 25/11/2007 16:02:19 darftblerk Regulator leads, earth lead and electrical Hi all, Just rebuilding the fz fter having the frame stripped and powder coated. I'm now fitting the wiring loom and have forgotten where the leads from the starter solenoid go. One red lead goes to the battery positive, the other I'm guessing goes to the gearbox earth point? Or the top of the generator? Also, where is the earthing point for the battery negative terminal? Many tbanks
361 27/11/2007 02:32:43 ganepeil Re: Regulator leads, earth lead and electrical Darftblerk. if your' starter sol. is like mine, it has 3 leads. the two bolt down (heavy guage )are polarity conscious as the + side is also fed to the start switch. this side indeed goes to the batt.+ terminal. the other goes to the starter motor lug. Battery neg lead bolts to engine case bolt, originally inboard of clutch cover on top case tho any will do ( I like to run an accessory lead to a good chassis ground) the blue/white wire goes to start sw, and activates starter sol when grounded. G
362 09/01/2008 15:54:14 fz-andy Painting the FZ engine Hi guys, I am re-building the bike and the engine needs a spray!! Does anyone know if the standard colour is black gloss or black satin as I cant tell on mine!? thanks :-D
363 20/01/2008 21:50:21 reclaimer Re: Painting the FZ engine Hi fz-andy, Satin is the way to go, that seems to come up well, make sure you degrease and wash the engine well. Geoff
364 20/01/2008 21:53:12 reclaimer Re: Painting the FZ engine Hi fz-andy, Satin is the way to go, that seems to come up well, make sure you degrease and wash the engine well. Geoff
365 20/01/2008 21:53:44 reclaimer Re: Painting the FZ engine Hi fz-andy, Satin is the way to go, that seems to come up well, make sure you degrease and wash the engine well. Geoff
366 10/01/2008 00:16:36 alcopaulic Emulsion tubes aka main nozzle replacement back when Sean's Fz750 wiki site was still around i read a post there that describes similar problems to what i was having. Basically if the idle is below 2k, it idles for a few minutes but always dies and Low end hesitation to the point of stalling. The guy said after investigating everything he finally traced it to the nozzle main. If anyone knows what this is, or what it looks like on the carb it's the tub that the needle passes through i believe. The question is, how do i remove this tube? there is a small slot where you can fit a screw driver into to twist it i believe, but there is also a pin holding it in place. Any helps as always is appreciated.
367 23/01/2008 02:58:58 ganepeil Re: Emulsion tubes aka main nozzle replacement paul. your surmize is correct. the emusion tubes are ventilated tubes which along with the needle and main jet control amount of fuel flow as slide raises & falls. they are shoulderd at top,and secured in carb body by the main jet and its sealing washer at its base. the pin simply locates the tube in the main jet's galley (some emulsion tubes have shields which exteend into the intake throat and need be properly located) and slide thru a slot in the emulsion tubes' outer body. to remove, after removing slides/diaphrams,main jet& washer, simply push/tap tube up thru carb body.(I like to use a long screw of like thread of main jet into it's body to tap on) two things happen to these jets. one is that they get plugged up. the other is that the needle beats on the upper throat of the tube which enlarges the orifice, and decreases the diameter of the needle. in extreem wear situations one can see ovaling of upper tube throat. and flat/shiny areas on needle. there are other culprits for loading up at idle, hope this helps. G
368 25/01/2008 03:27:29 alcopaulic Re: Emulsion tubes aka main nozzle replacement i was hoping for your response on this subject G. Thanks alot, that will help me out, i'll get a little screw and tap the tube out of there. Then i just have to buy the new ones at 30 bucks a piece, lol
369 05/02/2008 04:16:38 bnail Engine bogs when first hitting the throttle? I have a 1988 FZ750 with 26K miles on it. It has been ridden fairly gently and is in like new condition. I have recently noticed that if you crank the throttle real quick it bogs just a little at the begining but if you ease onto it it revs smoothly (think a really fast ease on, barely slower than hitting it hard). Carbs are not a problem, they have been cleaned and tuned twice during their 26k mile life and were not separated so sync is good. Air filter is also clean. Bike is due for a valve adjustment but it's been ridden so lightly I thought I could get by. Has anyone else had this problem or similar and found a way to fix it? Bike runs great otherwise. It is not a very big deal, but I always want my bike to run perfectly. Thanks for any help!
370 06/02/2008 09:11:53 FZ750Horse Re: Engine bogs when first hitting the throttle? I think to some extent it's a characteristic of the engine (my carb R1 has very similar characteristics to an FZ, including the slight stumble coming off tickover), although carb wear could make it worse. Don't assume that carb balance is ok without checking - it does make a difference to the problem. Easiest answer - I raised the tickover to 1700rpm on my trackbike (to reduce engine braking) and that eliminated the problem. I then raised the tickover on my road bike to about 1200 rpm - no more stumble :-) . Good luck.
371 08/02/2008 04:46:16 ganepeil Re: Engine bogs when first hitting the throttle? Rohan. Only 2 carb cleans in 20 years? phenominal! I average 1 a year. Poor pick-up off idle is usually an indication of moderatly dirty pilot circuit. if pick-up improves with a little choke, try a little fuel injector cleaner with your' next tank of gas. better yet, throw a carb clean at it just on account, chances are it'll amaze you. luck Gane.
372 08/02/2008 05:12:40 bnail Re: Engine bogs when first hitting the throttle? You know what? I've been working on my own cars and truck for the last ten years and I didn't even think to try fuel injector/carb cleaner on my bike. I'm riding it to work tomorrow and going for a good ride (about 80-100 miles) on Sat. so I'll let you know how that turns out. I hope it is as easy as going throuh a tank of gas. If not, i will move on to inspecting carbs. I don't want to up the idle, it tends to run hot at stop lights in summer. Not an issue now but it will be later. Thanks for your replies I'll post an update this weekend. [u]UPDATE:[/u] I rode a tank of gas with injector/carb cleaner through it with no change in the outcome. SO next I will be pulling the tank off and inspecting the carbs. I'll clean em on the next oil change (due as soon as the amsoil comes in) and probably make some adjustments using a gravaty line so I can run the bike and test as I adjust. We'll see how that goes. Thanks again for input.
373 16/03/2008 02:12:13 ganepeil Re: Engine bogs when first hitting the throttle? Rohar, while cleaning carbs, something I like to do is spray carb clean into the jet ports in bodies with jets removed and visually verify spray thru intake bleeds, and fuel screw ports (before and after butterfly). happy riding.G
374 18/03/2008 19:15:41 bnail lubrication pressure HI, first I like to introduce myself because I'm new here :-) I'm from Berlin/Germany and I implanted a FZ750 engine (type 1FN) into a gokart. For more info pls refer to my webside under EVO-4. Now, I have a question and I hope, you can help. As a gokart does not behave as a bike if you go through a turn the original oil-level-sensor during every turn shows: too less oil. This is normal for that kind of sensor. I do not know, if the lubrication pump sucks oil or air during the turns. So, i want to add a lubrication pressure sensor to the engine. Does anybody know the typical lubrication oil pressure @1000, @3000+ rpm? Thanks
375 19/03/2008 01:30:03 ganepeil Re: lubrication pressure Manfred, while I've never seen it done,nor can I find any spec.s My approch would be to fit a capillary tube via banjo collar at presure line to head. (that would allow mounting guage almost anywhere.) and use stationary presure as referance. my guess would be 12-20 lbs at idle, 30-40 lbs around 3-5 grand and peak somewhere around 60-90 at 8 grand + . these are just guesses, but fall into the general peramiters of plane bearing cranked transverse 4's. Bikes never see the lateral G's developed by carts, so have no idea how much oil stays in the pick-up area of sump in your' application. luck G 8-) PS these would be w/hot oil.
376 19/03/2008 09:34:19 bnail Re: lubrication pressure HI, [quote]Bikes never see the lateral G's developed by carts,[/quote] Yes - this is the point! Thanks for your guesses. The manual shows a max. of about 68psi (blow off valve previous to filter). So I would estimate your guess will be a little bit lower. I will not use the engine below 3 or 4 krpm - there is not enough power. So I follow your guess and install a oil pressure sensor with a "switch point" around 30lbs. This should be ok to indicate a lubrication pump problem during race. [quote]My approch would be to fit a capillary tube via banjo collar at presure line to head.[/quote] Yes, this is my plan, too. Thanks so far for your help.
377 20/03/2008 01:55:46 ganepeil Re: lubrication pressure Manfred, have been spanked by 125 shifter karts (practice laps on a local 1.5 mi. course) where I had @ 100 hp advantage. and scared myself in a 440 2 stroke sno-mobile powered cart w/only @ 50 hp on tap. have fun.G. Ps once you fill the crankcase over the check window, piston travel and oil level start causing crankcase presurizing and blow-back into airbox/catch can. back in the stone ages 1/4 milers would have spacers machined to lower trans pan, and extend pickup. if you experiance oil starvation, that and baffles might be opts. G
378 20/03/2008 06:37:53 bnail Re: lubrication pressure HI G, using higher oil level to avoid air sucking of the oil pump during turns is not my plan. Your description of results meets my experiences, too. I have to find out the best oil level between oil starvation and air sucking. So the pressure sensor is the best way to do that. Last year I had two short trials on a short course ( and on an event in an industrial area ( And ... I experienced the lubrication problem and so I didn't have the chance to feel much Gs in the turns. This year 'll have fun, you betchya. 8-)
379 28/04/2008 18:21:11 bnail Re: lubrication pressure Hi, just want to give a feed back. I installed two pressure sensors with a switching point at around 4psi and 30psi. I recognized the low one switched below idle speed and the other one switched at roughly 3000-4000revs. And no pressure loss during the chicanes and u-turns last weekend. I'll try fast and long curves next time. Thanks for help :-)
380 28/04/2008 19:14:36 FZ750Horse Re: lubrication pressure For what it's worth, I asked around re. what oil level I should fill to for track use. The consensus was "top of the window plus 200ml". I ran the bike like that last year with no blowback problems. I've now got rid of the airbox and tied a bit of filter foam over the end of the breather pipe that used to feed into it - I hope it doesn't start to blow back now... :-o
381 25/03/2008 14:59:00 bnail Wiring colours for 2MG CDi unit Please can anyone tell me which colour wires go to which positions on the 6 pin CDi unit on my 2MG FZ750 engine? Thanks.
382 01/04/2008 01:36:48 ganepeil Re: Wiring colours for 2MG CDi unit Karter, Thought I had a lead for you, but it fizziled, 2mg prefix would indicate cdi is from 87-90 fz750 EURO if box # corresponds to eng #'s/vins. there is a post from the FZarchives you might look at at, I think the 2LM box might be the canadian equivilant to your' EURO, but have run out of leads. and have no way to cross-reference. best bet is to access schematic of 87-90 wireing diagram and hope it has a connector breakdown (my YAMAHA manuals do, tho it requires a jewlers loop to read)luck G
383 13/04/2008 22:20:43 bnail used cdi to fit 86 fz750 - found Found one for less than 50% of new. This place is awesome! Searches salvage yards nationwide:
384 14/04/2008 02:36:45 bnail Give me your best guess Thank You! I bought a new battery and charged it and the bike still won't start so I'm thinking that even if it is the stator, I still have bigger problems. I checked, and there seems to be ok spark. I sprayed some starting fluid down the carbs and...nothing. Does the fuel tank have to be hooked up in order to fire? I am stumped.
385 14/04/2008 23:26:51 EagleHawk Re: Give me your best guess The tail cover is the piece i'm needing. The piece i have is for the FZ700 i believe, it sits atop the tail light but doesn't incase it, it only has two bolt hole both at the to to bolt to the frame under the seat.
386 15/04/2008 01:29:21 ganepeil Re: Give me your best guess Have you tried running a compression test yet? Sounds like you have air, fuel, and spark. Provided your timing is correct, compression would seem to be the last option. Any idea when the valves were adjusted last? Even if your fuel pump was bad, starting fluid should at least get the engine to 'try' to start. You might check out your pickup coils to make sure they're OK as well, since they determine when the spark occurs. -Josh
387 15/04/2008 15:28:15 bnail Re: Give me your best guess John, Josh's thought is a good one.add these as things to check. 1st, that coils are correctly wired.( ie l/h coil is 1-4,r/w-or. r/h coil 2-3,r/w grey ) and that plug if not clean, are at least dry. more diffecult to check but frequent probs, are plug caps leaking to ground,poor connections from primary wires-to caps. if you have spark at all cyls, pickups can be dismissed, and cdi probs,(while rare) usually present themselves as 1 spark, then none, or consistant spark but at goofy advance intervals. carbs represent 90+ % of all Genesis probs, a quick check is to rip 'em off, spray a short burst of carb clean along the intake spigots and attempt to start. firing for even a couple of seconds reccomends anouther trip to carb-land.luck G
388 16/04/2008 01:31:36 ganepeil Re: Give me your best guess John, cdi is a little bigger than a pack of smokes, and resides under l/h side cover at end of battery box. it has 2 plug-in ports, using blade type connectors one 6 (poss.contacts.) the other 4. chances are your' looking at either fuel pump relay (6 point) or sidestand relay 4. and no, they should only click once when performing their respective tasks. the fuel pump however will click repeatedly until either presure is attained or the cdi's initial power up times out. luck G
389 16/04/2008 17:57:16 bnail Re: Give me your best guess Thank you G, Once again your info comes in handy. The thing I thought was the cdi is actually the fuel pump relay. It makes a lot of noise for awhile when the key is on. I found and ordered another cdi. (I also ordered a repair manual from ebay so, hopefully, I can stop sounding so ignorant). I may have to order the relay too but will wait and see the results of the cdi. 2 New questions: A parts guy told me that if a pick-up is bad, usually the other will be ok and the bike will still run on two cylinders. Agree or not? When the fuel pump relay was making all that racket (I wasn't trying to start the bike), the tachometer needle was pulsing up to 2000rpms. Think it could be a short? Thank you for any thoughts anyone may have. I am learning a lot. John
390 17/04/2008 02:28:28 ganepeil Re: Give me your best guess John, your' parts guy is sharper than most. The pick-ups are just Hall-effect sensors which make a voltage spike when field collapses.(in this case when a slot in crank web passes sensor )on your bike the two sensors share a common ground wire to the cdi and plug in at the 4 conn. port. static resistance from or-blk and grey-blk thu sensors should be 135-175 ohms, and generate @ .4v when cranking. the cdi uses these triggers to determine advance curve, and make/break ign.coil voltage. hope this helps G
391 30/04/2008 07:37:41 Dutch Re: Give me your best guess John, Any idea why the FZ was put aside not running? Perhaps after putting in a 2MG engine?? If engine is the original one frame nr and engine nr should be the same. Spark plugs spark every revolution. Once to ignite the mixture, once just for fun (the other plug gives an ignition spark at that moment). Ticking of fuel pump is normal. It stops when carbs are full. Even a non visable contamination can put carbs out of order. Suggest ultra sonic cleaning. Worked very well on the carbs of an FZ that had stood for 12 years! Good luck, Dutch
392 19/04/2008 00:49:00 bnail Backfires out carbs 86 fz750 I put a different cdi in it. The new cdi ends with - 39 and the old ends with - 49. Doesn't matter anyway because it acts the same with either one. Is there a a special thing I have to do to like disconnect the battery to reset something? Pick ups and all wiring looks factory and all colors match. Backfires out of all four carbs. Can these things jump a tooth on the timing gear or chain? Are cdi and pickup coils the only things that determine timing? If anyone wants to chime in, I'd be more than grateful. I'm never going to want to part with it because I will know it better than my wife if I ever get it running. John
393 19/04/2008 01:37:43 EagleHawk Re: Backfires out carbs If you have backfiring out of all four carbs, at least you have confirmation that ignition if functional in all four cylinders. From what I've heard (although haven't experienced yet), carb backfires can be an indicator of lean air/fuel mix. In rebuilding my engine, it looks like it would be essentially impossible for the cam chain to jump a tooth. It's all automatically tensioned, so not much chance of it getting loose enough to jump. I'm still wondering about the valves though, what with the backfires and all. Any idea on if/when they were adjusted? There isn't anything to reset for the ignition, although the way your tach was pulsing, I would wonder about an electrical issue somewhere. I believe the tach is driven off of the cdi, so it does seem to point in that direction... Timing isn't something that can be adjusted, though. (Like you said, determined by the cdi and pickup coils.) -Josh
394 19/04/2008 02:13:46 ganepeil Re: Backfires out carbs John, Progress! at least now you have fire. ignition timing is exclusivly cdi. backfiring thu carbs can be 1. intake cam out of time. 2 intake valves being held open by carbon chunks on valve faces,3, intake valves have hit piston, and are "tipped" or least likely, valve clearances so tight that they don't completly close. yes cams can jump time tho when they do it usually results in catastrophic engine damage. it's time for you to check crank/cam timing and valve clearances. if your' extreemly lucky, the last guy in there miss timed cams, (you can get away with a tooth or two without bending valves) excessive clearance indicate carbon or bent valves. carbon can sometimes be exised by water torture if engine can be coaxed to life (more if intrested). and yes I did,(must have been my cups)but I'm a man of my word. G
395 19/04/2008 02:32:09 ganepeil Re: Backfires out carbs John. In re-reading Eaglehawks post had an enormous brain fart.and offer this. Frank (my 7-10) uses 700-750 wire harness w/1000 eng-cdi. I had to swap or/grey wires at cdi(ie left and right pick-ups) to run, and prior to swap was backfiring thru carbs. luck G.
396 19/04/2008 00:56:06 EagleHawk Engine Break-In Hey all, I'm finally to the point of first start-up and break-in for a freshly rebuilt FZ750 in the next few days. :-D Just to be on the safe side, I figured I'd give a shout out for any tips on break in for this particular engine. If there's any engine/bike specific things I should do or watch out for, I'd definitely appreciate any pointers on them. Thanks, -Josh
397 19/04/2008 01:27:13 ganepeil Re: Engine Break-In Josh, just the usual, listen for strange noises, look for fuel,coolant and oil leaks. 2 things to know/be aware of. the alt.needs to look at battery load when running.otherwise, it overcharges and blows diodes. the other, it frequently takes a couple of heat cycles to purge cooling system. break-in is typical,moderate loads,varied rpm, I rec. under 8 grand for the 1st 3-4 hundred miles. hope things go smoothly for you, keep us in the loop. luck G
398 22/04/2008 05:37:51 EagleHawk Re: Engine Break-In I understand that factory paints are NLA, but what about paint codes from other applications that might be "close enough". Lets face it, touching up scrates will never look perfect(especially when you are dealing with 20 year original paint). Has anyone had any luck with Duplicolor, or other similar, touch up paints? I might have to bring one of my fairings to a local AutoZone :).
399 20/04/2008 20:01:27 bnail Sputters and dies if not nursed Altered: First, a huge thank you to all who have given ideas thus far. I set the tank up high and set it to gravity feed. It started and runs! Seems to right up and idle well and the choke does what it's supposed to. When I give it any throttle, it will die unless I gently get the r's up. What is standard idle rpm when warm? Doe it sound like a vacuum leak? Could it be electrical with the timing not advancing the spark right away? Please tell me what you think.
400 30/04/2008 07:40:53 Dutch Re: Sputters and dies if not nursed Does it run on all four cylinders?
401 30/04/2008 21:40:10 bnail Re: Sputters and dies if not nursed Yes, it runs strong on all four.
402 01/05/2008 02:27:36 ganepeil Re: Sputters and dies if not nursed John. in order. Idle should be 1k rpm + or - 100 rpm. vac. leak.... possible if the leak is huge, ie carbs have popped out of intake rubbers/manifold are ripped. minor leaks typicaly cause engine to race or fail to idle down after throttle is blipped. ign. timing no. the sole component controling this is the cdi.if bike runs on all 4 and idles smooth the chances of it's failure are remote. CV (constant velocity) carbs raise their slides because of the difference of pressure between manifold pressure (vcacumn) and intake throat. sticking slides/torn or holed diaphrams and errant springs are frequent causes of slides failing to rise.after that, plugged emulsion tubes and blocked atmopheric vents are suspects. unless jetted for its absence, fzs run like crap without their airboxes. PS where do you teach? I attended Meadowdale HS 3+ decades ago. G
403 10/09/2008 08:29:38 JoelB Re: Sputters and dies if not nursed [quote]fzs run like crap without their airboxes[/quote] I have four separate foam filters that are the size of drink cans. My air box will not sit down fully over them, not sure why. About a half an inch of foam is visible at the base of them. Does this sound like room for improvement?
404 21/04/2008 01:39:57 texasFZ Carburator Trouble Well, Here's looking at about 125 miles since startup. Fired right up once all the air was purged out of the fuel system. No oil or coolant leaks. Used a tad bit of oil in the first 100 miles. Seems to be sealing up ok now. Carbs horridly out of adjustment though, as they were 'synched' to run on the engine with at least two cylinders with previously leaking exhaust valves. Hope to get the carbs dialed in in the next day or two along with an oil/filter change, and then maybe check once more in another 300-400 miles. Best of all, the starter clutch functions when the bike is WARM! (Gotta love that...) 8-) Good to be back on the road... :-D -Josh
405 02/05/2008 22:39:22 EagleHawk Loosing coolant at high rpm's Hey all, Got an interesting problem here. Just coming out of a fresh rebuild (runs like a champ :-D), but at least on a couple of occasions now, if I run the engine up really hard, say 8k or more, I end up loosing coolant from somewhere. Doesn't seem to be head gasket, as there are no other signs of failure with mixed oil/water or steam out the exhaust. Could this possibly be attributed to a weak radiator cap or thermostat malfunction? As far as I can tell, the coolant is getting pushed out of the radiator and through the overflow tank, as there are no signs of leakage anywhere else. Water pump looks to be completely dry. Under normal driving conditions, there is nothing abnormal about how the engine runs, and no coolant loss or apparent fluid mixing. On a side note, both the cylinder block and head were re-surfaced with a new head gasket installed during the rebuild, so mating surfaces should be about as good as one would ever expect to see. Thanks, -Josh
406 03/05/2008 00:39:02 ganepeil Re: Loosing coolant at high rpm's low does your' recovery bottle get after one of these incidents ? that is after things cool, and coolant is drawn back into system? also, what is temp reading when your' working it ? The rad cap pop off is between 11 and 15 lbs pressure. and can be tested with standard automotive equipment. puny caps are common after all these years, and leaks/pinched return line hinder the ebb and flow of recovery bottle. as I mentioned earlier it often requires a couple heat cycles to purge system and air bubbles escaping thru recovery bottle from presurised system can spew more than you'd think. water pump leaks are obvious by either oil contamination or the puddle of coolant below yer left ankle when idling w/hot eng. at stops. fz/fzr's have a tendency to get hot when abient temps rise and /or air flow deceases.probly because our radiators have 20 years of build-up inside. nominal coolant temp is between 180-200 degrees, and fan usually comes on @ 220. Long after you begin swearing at the light. many of us have incorperated a switch to turn on fan before guage hits red. hope this helps G
407 03/05/2008 00:50:56 EagleHawk Re: Loosing coolant at high rpm's When it's all said and done, it's pretty low, as I think it's pulling the recovery bottle coolant back into the radiator as it cools down. I might want to try it again to verify the recovery bottle is actually the route the coolant is taking out of the cooling system. Even with a full radiator, the engine also has a tendency to heat (not overheat) up pretty quickly if I'm sitting at a light or such, which makes me question if the thermostat is opening up when it should. I'm pretty sure both radiator cap and thermostat are still the original parts. It would almost seem as if combustion pressure is pushing the coolant out through a leaking head gasket, but I have yet to find any oil/coolant mixed in either the coolant or oil, which I would also expect to see if a failing head gasket were the case... -Josh
408 03/05/2008 02:09:00 ganepeil Re: Loosing coolant at high rpm's Josh, sorry , thought you were out for the evening, might re-read my post as i edited it. Cracked head/blown head gsk blows bubbles at rad cap. if you have bubbles and access to a ega machine, ega will read h/c's at cap (open). thermostat can be checked by putting in a pot of water on the stove and watching it open. luck G
409 03/05/2008 02:43:37 ganepeil Re: Loosing coolant at high rpm's Josh. blowing/sucking is design of recovery bottle.and within limits is reason for it's existance. typical expansion of the 2-3 quart system is around a cup maybe 2 from hot to cold. expanding coolant escapes past rad cap into res. via relief port to res. cooling draws back into system.
410 03/05/2008 08:41:03 EagleHawk Re: Loosing coolant at high rpm's Ran it up pretty hard on the freeway tonight. Coolant is definitely being pushed out of the recovery bottle. That being said, after it all cools down, the bottle is completely full, while the radiator is quite lacking. (ie: there appears to be very little attempts in the way of pulling coolant back from the recovery bottle.) Overflow hose looks rather questionable, so I'll see about replacing that tomorrow, along with checking for bubbles while running. Thanks for the help- I'll keep you posted... -Josh
411 05/05/2008 05:38:51 EagleHawk Re: Loosing coolant at high rpm's Ok. So further testing and results: So long as I keep RPM's to a 'reasonable' level, under 6k or so, I have no ill effects. I had a buddy run it up good and hard tonight while I followed on his bike, and sure enough, coolant was coming out of the recovery bottle in a steady stream so long as he had it run up real hard... Replacing the recovery bottle hose helped some, as the original was in pretty sorry shape, but it's looking like a more serious problem. Really hoping it's not head gasket, as the mating surfaces were as good as I knew how to get them. (both machined before re-assembly.) Perhaps re-torquing the head gasket might help? At this point, I'm not sure that a weak radiator cap would be the culprit for passing that much coolant so quickly, although I don't get why I don't end up sucking any coolant into the oil or vice-versa if the head gasket is the problem. Strange... :-(
412 05/05/2008 09:52:27 Dutch Re: Loosing coolant at high rpm's Do I read correctly the loss of coolant is more rpm related than temperature related? What happens if you ride the bike pretty hard but always upshift before 6000 rpm? Does anyone know if the output of the waterpump is equal to rpm, more revs = more liters / minute? If so the problem might be an obstruction between radiator cap and pump. At low revs the flow is not so high so no problem, above 6K the coolant can't flow back to the pump quick enough and pressure builds up. Excess pressure is released via overflow bottle. Just a thought. Why it doesn't draw back fluid when revs drop can't really say. Good luck, Dutch
413 05/05/2008 22:56:23 EagleHawk Re: Loosing coolant at high rpm's Hmm. That's actually an excellent point. Now that you say it that way, the coolant loss does seem to be more connected to RPM vs. engine load. I can ride around moderately hard with little to no coolant loss, but as soon as I hit high RPM's, coolant comes spurting out of the overflow like crazy. The oil and water pump are driven off of a common shaft that is geared off of the clutch/flywheel gear, so they're definitely a direct speed correlation to the engine. Initially, it looked like I had a pinched overflow tube. A new tube seems to have fixed the returning coolant problem, so now after a real hard run and cool down, I have low radiator coolant, and an empty recovery bottle. I'll see if I can find anything matching up with these theories. Might go for a new radiator cap too, as the pumped coolant returns just behind the radiator fill, so perhaps the cap can't take the pressures generated at higher RPMs... Thanks for all the help- I'll keep you posted. -Josh
414 06/05/2008 00:01:45 ganepeil Re: Loosing coolant at high rpm's Josh. Agree w/new cap thought. if cap is popping off at low pressure would allow coolant to boil even before operating temp. luck G
415 19/05/2008 07:24:10 mike760 Re: Loosing coolant at high rpm's A Answer Thermostat Gone the bike revs up the pump create more and more pressure, and because there no flow it can't suck the fluid back in and the pressure air remain after it even cools down. Mike760
416 21/05/2008 05:30:22 EagleHawk Re: Loosing coolant at high rpm's Finally got a new cap on. It definitely helped a lot, but didn't completely solve the problem. Thermostat seemed to test out ok (180 degrees), unless maybe it's not able to properly/completely open up against the pressure of the water pump? Looked to be original equipment, just like the cap. Given the condition of the original cap, I wouldn't be surprised if the thermostat was functioning in a similar state of disrepair. I'll see what I can do about getting the thermostat replaced this week. Thanks for the help! 8-) -Josh
417 29/05/2008 00:06:42 EagleHawk Re: Loosing coolant at high rpm's Well, took the bike out for a pretty hard ride this past weekend, and the problem is definitely still there. Marginally better, with the new rad. cap, but by no means fixed. Kind of wondering about the t-stat, but now I'm starting to wonder if the head gasket didn't completely seal for whatever reason. There doesn't seem to be any bubbling in the coolant at idle (the only way I can check that) and still no coolant/oil mixing, but something is displacing the coolant at a pretty good rate when I really open the throttle. Not sure if faulty thermostat could do that or not. I'm thinking I might do a compression test across the cylinders to see if I have one that shows particularly low if it is a leak in the head gasket... :-( -Josh
418 29/05/2008 06:24:10 EagleHawk Re: Loosing coolant at high rpm's Found bubbles tonight. I let the coolant level stabilize with the cap off, then slowly started boosting RPM's. 7-8K started pushing bubbles like crazy. Sounds like head gasket. Darn... That being the case, anyone have any recommendations on trying to re-torque the old gasket first, or is it a lost cause, and better to just replace with a new one? This unfortunately still leaves me with trying to find out why the first gasket didn't seal. As was previously mentioned, both the cylinder block and head were machined before re-assembly, so I'm at a loss as to why the gasket didn't seal up right... :-? -Josh
419 30/05/2008 01:51:28 ganepeil Re: Loosing coolant at high rpm's Sorry Josh. Re-torquing requires nearly as much work as replacing gasket (as you know)and since your' fairly certain its already leaking chances are the coating on or between wafers has carried away. My opt would be a new gasket, tho before dis-assembly I'd 1st, look to plugs and see if there were any tel-tales as to where leak is. and if not obvious, 2nd hook up a coolant pressurizer and set w/@ 14psi for an hour or so, then crank w/plugs out and see if coolant blows out of plug holes. these may aid in tracing site of leak, and, if leak is at either #1 or #4 (both are adjacent the locating dowelpins)re-concider re-torque. unless things slid together easily last time. a stiff dowel could cause poor seating in spite of proper torque. and might be revealed after these heat cycles. luck G
420 30/05/2008 02:04:36 ganepeil Re: Loosing coolant at high rpm's Hate myself for even mentioning it, but a crack in head could also be culprit.if twere the case, that hole would be washed clean aiding inspection.G
421 08/06/2008 02:06:04 EagleHawk Re: Loosing coolant at high rpm's Finally had a chance to get the head off tonight. In doing so, I noticed one of my two replaced cylinder sleeves has a 'ring' running around the inside- about 1" down from the top edge. The ring looks to be no larger than maybe 1/64" thick, but feels and looks to be a slight high point in the sleeve, as it is polished and has no honing marks on it as does the rest of the sleeve. There is also a hair-line scratch running through the center of the 'ring'. I'm fearing this might be a cracked sleeve as the ring doesn't correspond to anything else in the engine as far as top and bottom travel of the piston or rings. There doesn't seem to be any other obvious signs of head gasket failure, and the head itself looks fine. (No cracks.) -Josh
422 08/06/2008 03:10:42 ganepeil Re: Loosing coolant at high rpm's Josh just a guess, but possible err in sleeve install could have caused kinked sleeve, and crack to water jacket. bore needs to be damned near perfect and consiststant to keep from breaking rings,and any inconsistancy in liner/cross/hatch is unacceptible. G
423 11/06/2008 19:35:16 EagleHawk Re: Loosing coolant at high rpm's Took the cylinder block to the machinist who did the sleeve install (he has been in business for over 30 years), and he's never seen anything like it. He'll be pulling the sleeve to inspect it further, but as of now admits to being at a loss as to how the sleeve could have apparently cracked/separated into two halves as it did about an inch down from the top. He asked to inspect the head and gasket as well, to hopefully get a better understanding of what might have caused it. This is one of two replaced sleeves, the second one being perfectly fine. Strange. :-? -Josh
424 21/06/2008 07:27:54 EagleHawk Re: Loosing coolant at high rpm's Update- Had the 'cracked' sleeve pulled out, and low and behold, it's still in one piece. Nobody who's looked at it has any idea what the markings are from, other than the fact that the sleeve is definitely no good anymore. That, and all four sleeves seem to have water leaking in behind them where they "seal" in the block. Ultimately, the head and gasket seemed to be fine, so the cylinder block was the next thing to check. Machinist found about a .003" twist over the bottom surface of the block. Replacing the block, as re-sleeving and machining would cost more than a new one, ready to go. Time and parts permitting, I'll hopefully be up and running in another week or so. Just in time for summer... :-D -Josh
425 16/05/2008 19:33:25 FZ750Horse Carb needles After cannibalising my spare carbs I need to buy a new set of needles for them. I managed to find out the Mikuni numbers (4 x 5CEZ1 for 1FN, 2 x 5CEZ1 and 2 x 5DEZ1 for 2MG). The bad news is that these were only supplied to Yamaha - I can't get them from UK Mikuni stockists. I think the standard needles are still available from Yamaha but they come with all the spacers etc. and are about twice the price of normal Mikuni needles :-( I've heard that there was a factory race kit with different needles - does anyone know what the numbers were for these, or had good results with other non-standard needles? Cheers, Horse
426 27/05/2008 00:52:48 jhafley Re: Carb needles found the float needles at the following us company Hope this helps. BTW do those little wires on top of the float needle valves hook over part of the float or do they remain free. Thanks.
427 08/06/2008 21:32:54 FZ750Horse Re: Carb needles Thanks for that but it was actually the jet needles I was looking for. I've since managed to have a word with a UK tuner who did Superstock bikes for most of the big names back in the 80s - he reckoned he only ever used stock needles - just lifted them one groove. Horse
428 21/05/2008 19:55:07 bilbo restriction Just found out that i have a resticred jap model does anyone know how to derestict. :-? :-(
429 23/05/2008 03:07:52 ganepeil Re: restriction Bilbo, Fom my reading, restrictions can be multiple.most common are intake manifolds with a "lip" imposed in intake throat. air box intake restricted, ECU with mild advance curve. perhaps Dutch or others from the continent can offer more. Luck G
430 08/06/2008 01:23:46 Maniac Major carb issues!! Please help!! Im desperate. I had another bike and I hit a deer on it the saturday before christmas in 07. Long story short I dont have that bike anymore and the only bike I do have is a 1985 fz750 streetfighter. I have worked very long and hard on trying to get this bike on the road. A little about the bike: The bike has a 1987 fzr1000 swing arm, a 1989 fzr1000 front and rear wheel, 1995 fzr1000 front calipers, progressive fork springs, adjustable preload, and a custom undertail and side panels. The sub frame has been chopped and rasied 3 inches. Now I am down to the "nitty gritty" so to speak but the main problem is the carbs. I have a full aftermarket exhaust and UNI pod filters. A friend and I put in a stage 3 dynojet kit in ( as well as cleaned the carbs at the same time) and it is running like crap. Wont idle, wont hardly rev over 7 or 8 grand, and back fires like crazy. have tried every slot on the needles with virtually no improvement. I synced the carbs as best I could already. The dyno jet kit comes with a 144 main jet which is the largest in the kit and the bike steal almost seems to be running to lean on even it. Oh and under full throttle all 4 carbs seem to misting fuel out of the top. It does not blow black smoke on heavey revs at all btw. Does anybody have any experiece with these issues???? I need a FZ750 GURU!? If I dont get this bike going then I dont have a bike to ride at all. Please help!!! :cry: :-? :-o
431 08/06/2008 04:29:20 ganepeil Re: Major carb issues!! Please help!! M. carberation is the essence of fz probs. and jet kits are over-rated in their ability to "cure / improve all" a four into 1 exhaust is usually good for 1 size up on mains and a shim under needles. a set of individuals 1 more step. failure to idle usually dirty pilots and/or their passages/fuel screw. failure to rev out usually due to slides failing to rise,or missing needle spacers. vapor at intake is standard, indead, in the day tuning for intake was to strobe height of spray,and trim velocity stack height to @1". over w/stock airbox.if still lean at 144's insure carbs are seated/sealed to manifolds.G hope this helps
432 12/06/2008 02:44:29 Maniac Re: Major carb issues!! Please help!! First off...thanks for responding to my inquiry. Any info I can get that will get this bike up and going is greatly greatly appreciated. According to what little I know about dynojet they use there own number system when it come to the size of there jets. So I have no idea how far over stock a 144 dynojet jet would be. Also I am not completly sure that it is running lean. I do believe that it is getting a good seal between the carbs and the boots. I had a friend come over this morning and try and sync the carbs via what he said were the vacuum tubes but was unsuccessful. He could not get it to "pull a vacuum". So I am at a loss. He said that they had to be synced as far as the vacuum as well as the butterflies. Do you think the stock air box would make a big diffrence instead of using the individuals? Could I have a vacuum leak somewhere other than between the carbs and the boots? The bike has a huge "dead spot" when you first open up the throttle. I just dont have enough experiece to have a good understading of what I am doing. What model mikuni's are the carbs on the fz btw? Anyways.....I've done a bit of rambling here but I guess it comes down to not having a clue what to do next. Thanks again for the info provided thus far.
433 12/06/2008 18:51:06 FZ750Horse Re: Major carb issues!! Please help!! There's not much to add to Ganepeil's previous reply. The carbs should be synchronised by attaching vacuum gauges to the M6 threaded holes (blanked by screws/copper washers) in the inlet tracts immediately below the carbs. If there was no partial vacuum there the bike wouldn't run at all since no fuel would be drawn into the cylinders. I guess he meant he couldn't damp the gauges enough to get any steady readings? It still sounds like it's drawing air - try spraying water with a little washing up liquid in it from a garden sprayer round the inlet tracts to see if it shows up any leaks? I'm not sure about Dynojet numbers but 145 Mikuni mains are about as big as you can go on a standard engine - that's with a full race pipe and individual filters. Stock exhausts and standard airbox ran 102.5 mains, 1987 on bikes with the factory 4 into 1 ran 105/107.5 with the needles on clip 3 (the parts book suggests that US bikes had only one needle groove anyway?) You don't say what pipe you're using - could be having an effect? If it's road legal (quiet) you'd be massively rich with 140-odd mains Good luck, Horse
434 13/06/2008 03:40:12 Maniac Re: Major carb issues!! Please help!! Thanks again for the info guys. I know now the reason he could not get it to pull a vacuum. He was trying to use what look like two vacuum hoses come off both sids of the carbs....not the ones you have described to me. The whole problem could be caused by the carbs being way out of sync from what I understand. Btw....the exhaust I am running is aftermarket but I have no idea what brand the header is. I do know that it is aftermarked because it is defenitly not what came on the bike originally. The mid-pipe and can are both muzzy that I have adapted to the bike. You are right btw about the stock needle only having one groove. And I will check and make sure, as you suggest, that there are no air leaks around the boots. After I see if I can get the carbs synced I will post again to let yawl no how its going. Thanks again.
435 13/06/2008 22:05:01 bnail idles too high I have a 1986 FZ 750 that I've been working on. There was rust in the tank that has been taken care of. I cleaned the carburetors as well. When I first start it and take the choke off, it idles pretty well around 600 rpm. When I give it gas and it's warm, it idles at 3000 rpm and won't come down. Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated. John
436 15/06/2008 03:30:15 ganepeil Re: idles too high John. this will sound goofy, but might save time. If your' satisfied carbs are clean, remove the clamps from upper intake manifolds spray w/wd40 pledge whatever and slip carbs home.loose fit air box and fire. fz carbs are a pain to fit and frequently eject one end or the other after trying to locate tighening screws , and worse, shifted bands can interfere with throttle linkage holding 1 or more bodys open. a body not seated would cause an intake leak resulting in rev -out, and a band screw interfrering with butterfly/s would hold that carb open resulting in high idle. hope this helps G
437 15/06/2008 23:28:13 bnail Re: idles too high I sprayed WD on the rubber and made sure carbs are seated. Also made sure clamps are not hitting linkage. Problem still there. It idles at around 3k rpm but if I let it sit there and idle for a minute or so, it comes down and will actually die. Also, seems to run more appropriately when cold. When it is idling around 1000 rpms, I have to 'nurse' the throttle to get the r's up then it stays up by itself. I used a spraycan of gumout carb cleaner when cleaning and shot it around pretty well (I thought). Do you guys think the symptoms sound like the carbs could still have something in them? Maybe I missed a passage way? Thank you for any help.
438 16/06/2008 20:04:38 ganepeil Re: idles too high John, am pondering.... so perhaps a little info. 1st, how are you supplying fuel ? (for shop /dio I like a IV bottle, it eliminates the whole fuelpump delivery system). 2nd am guessing you've done at least a visual sync of butterflys. if so, how much gap exists between bore and bottom of plates? also do all completly close w/idle adjust screw backed completly away from linkage? still thinking G.
439 16/06/2008 21:22:00 ganepeil Re: idles too high I'm back. I'm painting today and timing between coats causes gaps.... Some thoughts. while high idle is usually caused by vac. leak, especially if butterflys are closed, it could also be caused by excess fuel.float valves either not sealing or leaking due to sticking plungers-leaking orings-debris above seat would cause running rich. thus motor is happy when cold and loads up/fouls plugs when warm. conversly vac. leaks an/or extreem lean conditions cause high idle,and eventual drop/die when fuel is exhausted. thus my querie as to fuel delivery.. what do the plugs say ? when it runs, is it on all cyls? equally? ( this can be determined by spraying headers w/some non flamible agent and watching dry rate)... fz's unless jetted for its absence often stumble /refuse to accept throttle without the restriction provided by airbox. you can trick them by draping an arm over intake throats wilst rolling on throttle. sorry . time for sanding.G
440 16/06/2008 22:53:53 ganepeil Re: idles too high Yarr, like wet glass... anyway fz/cv carbs are like the little girl w/ the little curl.when they're right they're very very good, but when thy're bad thy're attrocious. most problems stem from the idle circuit, as it's jets/orifices are smallest and are most susceptible to clotting. if in doubt, remove pilot jets and spray carb clean through the carb body via their mounds. you should see flow through 1, the fuel screw opening, 2, the ports at the base of butterflys, and 3rd the pilot air jet at carb throat. all need to be clear. fuel screws vary from carb to carb but a good starting point is @ 2 turns out. while its a no-no, I usually stab the center orifice of pilot jets with a single strand of wire from a 8 inch wire brush, then chase w/ carb clean. I can see from the emerging spray when jet is clear. other frequent probs, are displaced slide springs, diaphrams either cracked/split or escaping their homes.these can be checked by.. springs- lift slides in their bores by finger, if they rise to roof of throat smoothly, no prob. diaphrams, if you have access to compressed air, direct air jet to the orifice at the top of carb throat from say 6-8 inches out to begin, slide should lift. if air not assesible, lift slide and block orifice. slide should slowly settle. anouther thing to note, is needles should all have plastic spacers located below the locating circlip,(whether they be a fixed(single slot) or kitted(multiple slot). PM me a mailing address.G
441 19/06/2008 02:54:54 bnail Re: idles too high First I had the IV bottle going till I found a fuel pump. Then, hooked up fuel pump. Bike acted same either way. I visually synced carbs and butterflies all closed fully and simultaneously. Question: what are the two brass tipped outlets at the top of the carbs located bewtween the outside and inside carbs for? They are about a quarter inch diameter. I'm guessing over flow?
442 19/06/2008 02:59:32 bnail Re: idles too high I visually inspected slides and needles and diaphrams. All seem good. All slide in and out well and settle at the same rate. I think that I will pull the carbs apart again, and check those passages you mentioned. I'll be back. Thank you again for your input.
443 20/06/2008 03:34:55 ganepeil Re: idles too high Indeed, those nipples were originaly fitted w/rubber T's which joined inside to outside carbs, with 3rd leg fitted to hoses which ran down back of cyl and were secured to a plate just above cases. G
444 20/06/2008 23:58:13 bnail Re: idles too high Thanks for the info on the overflow. As for vacuum leaks, where, besides the carb throats, should I check for vacuum leaks?
445 16/06/2008 01:04:48 cashman overheating I'm having overheating issues when riding in heavy (stop & go) traffic. After reading some other posts, this seems to be a common problem. FYI - my bike is a 1986 FZ750. I like the manual override switch for the fan, but I was curious if anyone has found a way to fit an aftermarket aluminum racing radiator onto the bike. These are specifically designed for hotter running/high rpms and I'm curious if it could help solve the heat issues.
446 16/06/2008 22:25:42 cashman Re: overheating Another it possible to upgrade the cooling fan? Sorry for all the questions, I have some experience with cars but i am new to motorcycles.
447 16/06/2008 23:13:25 ganepeil Re: overheating cashman, I'm sure that our problems stem from what was originally a marginal cooling system which has deteriorated over the years.personally, I'd like to fit one of the later 600 radiators (you know the curved variety) and have scrounged a couple, but have yet the time/cash to send one out to have one reconfigured to match mounts/intake/exhaust configuration. I've a fellow MRA racer who makes his living at a rad. shop and frequently does repair on dirt bike rad.s and built the unit on my 1000 racer. His name is Denny Burke, and works out of Brighton Radiator here in Colorado. you might give him a call and see if he has suggestions. Luck G.
448 17/06/2008 06:10:14 cashman Re: overheating Thanks for the info. I may just do that. I love this bike, but the overheating is a pain in the derrier.
449 23/06/2008 02:51:37 cashman the cardinal sin... I tried to fix my bike when it wasn't "broke." Now it is. I've been having overheating issues (see previous post) so I flushed and replaced the coolant and tested to see if the radiator fan was getting power (it wasn't). Anyway, after I refilled the radiator I tried to start the bike so any air pockets would burp out. The engine will not start. Battery is fine, starter is cranking but I cannot get ignition. What the hell could I have done???? I'm wondering if i is somehow connected to the electrical issues I'm experiencing (rear turns, right front turn, radiator fan)? Any and all suggestions/comments would be much appreciated.
450 23/06/2008 15:52:46 jhafley Re: the cardinal sin... I am far from an expert but when it comes to 12 volt wiring. start from the basics. Are you getting any spark? if you were having electrical problems, this is a likely problem. If you are, next I would check the fuel pump. When you turn the key on, you should hear about 5 seconds of "buzzing" from the fuel pump. If that is not happening, then you may have knocked a wire loose or tied into the wrong wire to fix your problem. You say you are having fan and turn signal "issues"? It sounds like you may have a short or a bad ground somewhere. make sure there is metal to metal contact on the turn signals themselves and there are no pinched or broken wires. Also don't forget to check your fuses. I hope this amateur guesswork helps. Good luck. 8-)
451 23/06/2008 19:00:11 cashman Re: the cardinal sin... Thanks for the advice. I am getting the whirring/buzzing sound from the fuel pump. I'll check to see if I'm getting spark from the plugs. I have a Clymer manual with wiring diagrams, but I'll be damned if I can make heads or tails of it.
452 09/09/2008 21:39:50 FZ750Dude Re: the cardinal sin... If you were messing with your fan then make sure you check all your fuses. There under the seat. You may have shorted something and blown a fuse. J
453 24/06/2008 04:01:22 slydvl Stalling ? I have an 85 fz750 it has been sitting for years, so i pulled the carbs and cleaned them up. Tried starting the bike, took a while, but started. Only ran on 3 cylinders for the longest time, ran for a bit with choke, and then stalls. This keeps happening now, starts on 3 cylinders, all four start to fire runs great and then stalls. Any suggestions? I have not done a carb sync yet. Might that be the problem?
454 24/06/2008 19:34:30 EagleHawk Re: Stalling ? If the bike starts to run, I'm thinking it should keep running in whatever fashion it started in, be that rough idle, out of synch etc., unless something is suddenly taken away from it. (ie: fuel supply) Sounds like something isn't quite right with fuel delivery what with the starting with choke and then stalling. Have you been able to verify fuel flow from the pump independent of the carburetors? If you have no flow there, then you've found your problem, if you do, then it'd have to be further downstream. Using fresh gas too, I assume? Might also be possible that you sucked more debris out of the tank and back into your carbs and re-plugged your jets... (Speaking from experience on that one.):-) -Josh
455 24/06/2008 20:45:30 slydvl Re: Stalling ? thanks for the reply there is fresh fuel in the tank i just finished with the carb sync it runs fine off idle but still stalls when it comes down to about 1000rpm the pump is fine, or so i would assume since it runs off idle replugged the jets , eh? guess it wont hurt to pull the carbs off again and check.. that seems to be the most logical answer to me, the idle circuit is plugged up again any other suggestions?
456 25/06/2008 16:44:44 Dutch Re: Stalling ? A few years ago I bought an FZ at an auction from a dealership that stopped. Though can't be 100% sure it looks like that bike had been put in the showroom with a tank half full of gas and left to sit there for 12 (twelve !) years. The petrol wasn't bad. It was completely rotten :-( Had to clean the fuel tank with nuts, it was that dirty. After that it still didn't want to run, carbs gummed (you'd have that a lot earlier than 12 years). So I put the carbs of another FZ I had on and it still didn't want to run ok. With fresh spark plugs it did. After I sold that shop daughter I then had to get the other FZ -now with the dirty carbs- running. Never wanted to run untill they got cleand in an ultra sound bath. Now runs ok and the more miles I put on it the better it runs. Last tank of gas was BP Exellium which supposingly has extra cleaning dopes and it runs even better now. How is the battery? At 3000 rpm it can run on the electricity it produces, at tick over electric production is very low, maybe to low to give good sparks. In short: clean petrol tank, fuel filter, fresh fuel, new spark plugs and carbs ultrasonically cleaned. Cheers, Dutch
457 25/06/2008 18:13:33 slydvl Re: Stalling ? very good point you brought up. The battery, it seems to crank slow and wont start unless i hook up a charger to it....i'll see if it will stay running with the charger on i'll also go over the plugs carbs again.... is there an easy way to pull the plugs and do a compression test? they are hard to get at from the side and when i pull the tank off there is a shroud that i am not sure how to remove. i am sure if i could it would be alot easier to get to the plugs gotta add, this bike is freakin awesome! it will cost me a bit to get it where i want it, but i cant wait. probably one of the best bikes i have ridden.. very comfortable and alot of fun well except for the gsxr 1000
458 03/07/2008 18:30:47 CanadianFZ No power from 5000rpm on I have a 85 FZ owned it since 93'. I just put it back on the road since 99' I took apart the carbs cleaned and lubed them. It runs great below 5000rpm but any thing above it runs like its runing out of gas. Its just like the feeling of when you need to switch over to reserve. Am I missing somthing obvious? Thanks Gus
459 03/07/2008 19:00:39 slydvl Re: No power from 5000rpm on did you pull all the jets out and clean them well? check your float settings too
460 09/09/2008 21:45:32 FZ750Dude Re: No power from 5000rpm on I agree with slydvl, it sounds like you sucked something into your jets. Question, does it immediately start loosing power or does it take a little while then lose power. you may be either losing your fuel pump or have a clogged fuel line.
461 10/09/2008 08:22:45 JoelB Re: No power from 5000rpm on This sounds like the behaviour you get when the slide diaphragms are not sealing well.
462 06/07/2008 12:46:07 tom86fz750 Reasons why my engine dies intermittently? New guy here. I'm still in love with my 23yr old 86 FZ750 even though it's becoming a handful to keep running. Just recently I had a total engine tear down to replace a bent shift fork. After 6 months of reassembly when I was able to locate hard to find parts, it was brought back to life. Included in the process was a valve shimming job that had me searching the country for those scarce under bucket shims. All said, it ran great for about 2 weeks. While cruising on the highway one day it suddenly began to lose power as if it wasn't getting spark. It took between 30 to 60 seconds before it wouldn't run any more. With fresh gas in the tank, I could turn it over no problem but would not start. If I gave it a running push start then engage the starter button as I popped it into first gear it would just putter to a stop. After experiencing this reaccurring problem over the next few weeks I would only be able to restart it after 15 mins of stoppage by aggressively push starting it with the starter motor engaged until it would catch. The distance it would continue on ranged from 10 mins 2wks ago decreasing each occurence to maybe 1 minute currently. It'll start cold no problem. I have a new Interstate gasmat battery. I've tested the Ignition coils, pickup coils,rectifier,regulator etc. They all pass the resistence test as stated in the manual. The battery checks out while running(14.5v). I'm suspecting the fuel pump possibly has a gremlin in it. I noticed a small tear in one of the carb diaphrams when I cleaned them during the rebuild. Possibly the carb jets might be plugged from missed tank rust debris I missed removing. I just read a post about a fuel pump relay switch I was unaware of. What I'm looking for is feedback regarding how to trouble shoot a intermittent fuel pump. Anyone got any ideas? Thanks for the help. Tommy in AZ.
463 06/07/2008 18:05:06 FZ750Horse Re: Reasons why my engine dies intermittently? Have you tried running it with the fuel switched to reserve? Just a thought - the 70 Ohm resistor in the main circuit gave up on mine and caused similar symptoms before it died completely. Good luck. Horse
464 11/07/2008 03:52:10 tom86fz750 Re: Reasons why my engine dies intermittently? Thanks for your tip FZ750Horse! Any chance you could elaborate a little bit further on your similar problem occured with your FZ? Perhaps if you were to describe the troubleshooting steps taken that led to your discovery of the hidden gremlin, It could lead me to uncover my problem as well. All of my MC repair knowledge has come from trial and error as I only posses a basic understanding of engine dynamics. Yet I am very much open to carefully investigate through trial and error. Thanks Buddy! Anyone else got a possible solution to my dilemma? Thanks Y'all tommy
465 11/07/2008 08:01:07 Dutch Re: Reasons why my engine dies intermittently? gas/petrol should be relatively easy to check: if it stops and you open the carb drain there should be fuel coming out. If not or too little this might be the problem. Does the fuel pump click if you if you turn the ignition key to contact? Checking how the bike respons to fuel switch to reserve is also an easy check. FYI this is just a by-pass. Normally the fuel pump quits working when fuel is below a certain level. On 'reserve' this is bypassed and fuel pump pumps fuel regardless of level. Good luck, Dutch
466 11/07/2008 12:34:15 tom86fz750 Re: Reasons why my engine dies intermittently? I appreciate the tip buddy. Now that you mention it, I'm not hearing the traditional clicking sound from my fuel pump when the key is turned on. Hmmm? I will also investigate the reserve switch possibility. This gives me new hope for solving my troubleshooting mystery. Thanks heaps! Tommy in Az btw> recently I've noticed that my inline fuel filter only fills to 2/3rds full when the engine is running. Is that correct?
467 07/07/2008 23:07:39 FZ750Horse Odd looking needles Does anyone know what Dynojet's FZ750 needles look like? I just bought a set of manky old 1FN carbs and the needles aren't anything like the originals - they look a bit like a Saturn rocket with a thick main section and then a shoulder going down to a much thinner end section. The end section is maybe 15mm long. The guy I bought them off thought they might have been Dynojetted but the mains are only 108 which would equate to a stage 1 tune for high altitude - these came from Farnborough - altitude about 70m :-) Horse
468 09/07/2008 03:43:03 ganepeil Re: Odd looking needles Sorry Hoss, have seen some dynojet and factory needles , and while both have much more taper the the stock plugs, transitions were smooth. Have seen GSXR needles as you describe, and with fair results, at least on the track where the overlap from mid to wfo is minimal. seems timing would be the key, where slide lift and rpm/vacumm would intersect.a skinny needle would free the flow thru emulsion tube orifices' at WOT and lessen need of main jet dia. when coupled w pilot circuit feed to emulsion tube orifice. best check would be ega on dyno. luck g
469 09/07/2008 07:38:15 FZ750Horse Re: Odd looking needles Thanks for that. Kind of confirms what I thought, that these are probably Dynojet needles but not for an FZ. The slides had extra spacers and longer springs like the Dynojet drawings but, on having a better look yesterday, the skinny section starts more like 10mm from the end - there are no numbers stamped on them. Also, the needles have what looks like a very thin coat of grey primer on them - you can see where it's worn off on one side - I assume that this is so you can easily see how they're wearing. I'll stick them in my spare carbs and get them dynoed out of interest. Thanks, Horse
470 11/07/2008 08:02:38 Dutch Re: Odd looking needles [off topic] for a Dutchman 70 m IS high altitude :-D :-D :-D [/off topic]
471 11/07/2008 18:32:35 FZ750Horse Re: Odd looking needles :-)
472 19/07/2008 04:39:15 matthewlee kittted 86 fz 750 engine any interest in a kitted fz750 engine. polished kit crank, carillo rods, weisco high comp pistons, ported head, rd valve springs, megacycle cams, 39 mm flatslides, 4-2-1 header, back cut close ratio 6 speed, new clutch. i have made a adapter for the side of the crankcase to fit a dyna 2000 crank trigger ignition on it. it works well. i had the chain come off and mushroomed the case a little where the clutch pushrod is. i am not running it now because it drips oil. just testing the waters. i have a strong 1029 in my bike now. i also have a used 1029 piston and cyl set, stock 1000 cyl and a lot of misc if you need ask, i might have it. email mdavenpo1@NETZERO.NET MATT
473 21/07/2008 20:52:42 tom86fz750 Re: kittted 86 fz 750 engine I told myseld I wouldn't spend another dime, but... how much you praying to get? tom
474 29/07/2008 22:44:45 cashman thermo switch Anyone know where to find a thermostat switch that open at a lower temperature than the stock one? It would be nice if my radiator fan kicked on BEFORE the temp gauge hit the red.
475 30/07/2008 06:32:41 Dutch Re: thermo switch Thermostat and fan have nothing to do with each other. The thermostat opens a valve to the radiator when the coolant has reached a certain temperature. This to heat up the engine quicker and to prevent it from staying cold in a colder environment. The fan kicks in when the radiator doesn't cool enough, usually due to lack of air movement (standing still at traffic lights etc). Imho it's not good to have the thermostat open at a lower temp, the is designed to run at those operating temperatures. As for the fan, you can make a manual override so that the fan starts working when you flip a switch. Make it so that both the temperature switch and manual switch can turn it on. It has been done more, imho more for owners health than for the engine's. Again the Yamaha engineers did know a little what they where doing back than and temp is still save when the fan starts working. That people tend to get nervous because of a bit of red paint on a scale is another matter... Cheers, Dutch
476 30/07/2008 19:44:39 FZ750Horse Re: thermo switch I think you meant the fan sensor rather than the thermostat as Dutch assumed? Either way, I agree with Dutch - the temp. gauge is not usually very accurate. I used to have a GPz900R back in the day and they were notorious for "running hot". Kawasaki's fix was to put a resistor in the temp. gauge circuit, which cooled them right down. :-D Horse
477 31/07/2008 03:14:32 cashman Re: thermo switch Thanks technical knowledge of motorcycles is at best basic, but yes I did mean the fan sensor. Good to know about the temp gauge. I've been so conditioned that red = bad that I can't help but be concerned when it starts to creep into that dreaded region. Anyway, I'll take a look for the thread about installing a manual override switch for the fan, even if it is for nothing more than my own peace of mind.
478 06/08/2008 01:16:19 jhafley Re: thermo switch I just got mine running and it doesn't even have a thermostat in it (bought it that way). I have been running into the same problem that it will peg the temperature guage and it even spit some fluid out of the reservoir onto my leg today. It made me nervous and I cut my ride short rather than seize the engine. I can't say if any of this helps but I am just putting in my 2 cents. now that I have it rideable I am dealing with a whole new set of problems. I don't know if I should be worried or not. :-o
479 06/08/2008 02:31:43 cashman Re: thermo switch Jhafley - Out of curiosity, when (if at all) did the radiator fan kick on? Were you in traffic/stop lights? Mine seems fine with airflow, but stop and go driving quickly sends it into the red.
480 06/08/2008 22:02:44 jhafley Re: thermo switch my fan is coming on fairly early and I hit the red while running about 70mph on a country road (seems pretty slow to experienced riders but I have only been riding a few days on my permit). I noticed a warm wet feeling on my leg. It wasn't fear, it was coolant. the temp gauge went off the chart and I pulled over for a few minutes. the fan was running the entire time I had the bike turned on and idling it didn't seem to help. I am afraid I need to replace the water pump but I am not sure yet. any thoughts you or anyone else may have are welcome :-(
481 07/08/2008 19:59:50 FZ750Horse Re: thermo switch [quote] jhafley wrote: my fan is coming on fairly early and I hit the red while running about 70mph on a country road (seems pretty slow to experienced riders but I have only been riding a few days on my permit). I noticed a warm wet feeling on my leg. It wasn't fear, it was coolant. the temp gauge went off the chart and I pulled over for a few minutes. the fan was running the entire time I had the bike turned on and idling it didn't seem to help. I am afraid I need to replace the water pump but I am not sure yet. any thoughts you or anyone else may have are welcome :-( [/quote] I'm sorry to say that sounds a bit worrying. Have a look at EagleHawk's "Loosing coolant at high revs" thread. Is there any sign of oil in the coolant expansion tank or white goo in the oil level window or oil filler cap? Good luck, Horse
482 08/08/2008 01:54:10 jhafley Re: thermo switch so far no coolant or white goo. I guess it is possible that I am overfilling the radiator (just to the tip of the cap) but no oil or anything else that I can see. Gotta tell you, I am about ready to give up on this POS. How hard is the water pump to replace anyway? the reason I think it is the pump is because it was dry for several months. Thanks horse. I will keep you updated. :-o
483 08/08/2008 13:07:14 FZ750Horse Re: thermo switch FZs get hot quickly when stopped at lights etc. on a hot day but a 70mph breeze should keep a healthy bike nice and cool. Unless it's been raced, the lack of a thermostat in your bike suggests that a previous owner was having similar problems. Coolant should be added via the expansion tank under the nearside side panel. Top it up to the upper mark and keep an eye on it to see if it's losing any. If you're not losing coolant out of a leaking hose/rad or into the cylinders something could be blocked. Try removing the drain bolts in the block and flushing through from the rad cap. Pump might be faulty but I've never heard of one giving up. Should be easy to get out and examine - I've never done it but I've got one in my spares box and from memory it's just held on by three bolts. Part of the problem with FZs is that they'll take a huge amount of abuse and neglect - I know 'cause I've done it -and still keep limping on. Look on the bright side - if you do manage to sort it out you'll have learned a lot and have a bike that you know is going to be reliable! Good luck Horse
484 08/08/2008 19:34:59 jhafley Re: thermo switch Thanks Horse, I will try the drain plugs and blowing everything out. I have kind of been hoping that this problem would sort itself out with some running but so far, no luck. I'll get it up on the stand and pop the drain plugs at my next day off (whenever that will be). Thanks again Hafley
485 08/08/2008 23:20:08 EagleHawk Re: thermo switch It's not too hard to change out the water pump, but like Horse, I'd have a hard time seeing how the pump could fail. Unless it ingested any gravel and ground the impeller blades down to nothing, it pretty well has to be moving water. So long as your engine is cool, you can pop off the rad. cap and run it to get some idea of flow. Direction of flow returns from the hose on the back of the t-stat housing and down into the radiator. A bump on the throttle should give you a good gush of coolant in the said direction. Provided you have coolant flow, how's your radiator look externally? You should be able to easily see light between the cooling fins, lest they've been smashed or stuffed with 30 years accumulation of bugs and road grime. Can you tell if the bike is overheating from lack of coolant or lack of the coolant cooling down? (ie: the radiator not doing it's job). My bike stayed plenty cool until I would punch the throttle and blow half the coolant over my rear tire. :-o Weak rad. cap would be another cheap/easy thing to check. For reference, my problem was ultimately a warped cylinder block, with the system loosing coolant out of the overflow tank anytime I used a lot of throttle. That was due to exhaust gas pushing into the coolant system and over-pressurizing it. Never had any coolant/oil mix in my case. -Josh
486 10/08/2008 17:59:35 jhafley Re: thermo switch Just got off 4 nights straight so I have some time to look at it today. Radiator visually looks pretty gummed up so I will pull it and pressure wash it. I haven't checked coolant flow yet but hopefully those 2 will do the trick. if the radiator cap were weak, wouldn't that be letting coolant out from under the cap, because I haven't seen any around there. I'll also try draining the radiator when I pull it and blowing air through the system to find any clogs (I hope) thanks for the advice Josh and I'll keep you posted on anything I find. Hafley
487 14/08/2008 00:09:41 EagleHawk Re: thermo switch Hafley, If the radiator cap were weak, you'd actually end up having coolant coming out of your reserve tank. Once your coolant system reaches/exceeds about 14 psi, the spring under the cap is overcome by the pressure, allowing the diaphragm under the cap to back off slightly, and the pressurized coolant to run into the overflow tank via the small hose just behind the rear of the cap. As the bike heats up and the coolant system starts to build pressure (completely normal) a weak cap may start venting coolant to the overflow tank before the critical pressure is ever reached, thus resulting in you having coolant running out of the overflow for no apparent reason. That leaves you with insufficient coolant for the radiator to cool off fast enough to keep up with the engine's heat output, and you end up with a vicious cycle of losing coolant and overheating. My cap wasn't the root problem, but was definitely a weak point of the system, so a worthwhile replacement for not too much $$. As for the radiator, you might also want a fin comb (or a thin screwdriver and lots of patience) to straighten out any crumpled fins you may have from various rocks and such getting thrown up at the radiator. Definitely be careful about damaging the fins with the pressure washer too, since the last thing you want to do is smash the fins closed in your attempt to clean things up. :-o -Josh
488 14/08/2008 02:28:05 jhafley Re: thermo switch Thanks Josh. Radiator cap will be the next thing on my shopping list and, since I can see a little daylight around the edges of the radiator, I will probably try that first. It would be nice to have 1 thing be a simple fix this week (or any other). Thanks again Josh and I'll keep you posted. Hafley
489 15/08/2008 22:20:02 jhafley Re: thermo switch Well I replaced the radiator cap and I thought my problem was solved.....nope. Same problem. Best part is that this time, I managed to melt a wire somewhere in the main power system and popped the 30 amp fuse twice. So I got to take my motorcycle for a walk and now I am looking at either having the radiator flushed/combed or buying one off of ebay. I am starting to think a fuel soaked rag in the gas tank and a match would put us both out of our misery. AAUUGGHH!! :evil:
490 08/09/2008 22:21:42 JoelB Spark strength....stalling After a carb rebuild, I set the idle at 1k and except for some minor surging and faltering, it seemed fine. I was riding at dusk and had stopped and was warming the engine again. When I switched the lights on, the engine stalled. I needed to blip the throttle to keep it running. Is my ignition in need of attention? (The plugs are good and clean)
491 09/09/2008 07:19:53 jhafley Re: Spark strength....stalling sounds like a battery/charging issue to me. Two things you want to check. first thing is to get a voltmeter and make sure you are charging your battery. put your leads on the appropriate battery terminals, start the bike and run it up to 5000rpm. if you are getting 13.5 volts or so, you are in good shape. if you are only getting 12 volts or less, you need to look at replacing the generator. I haven't done that yet since that seems to be the only part of my bike working right. The other thing is you may have a bad battery. make sure it is filled to the right level with distilled water (if it uses it) and take it to your local Kragen or Autozone and they can test it for you. I have been told bikes go through batteries every 2-3 years. Good luck
492 09/09/2008 18:05:44 Dutch Re: Spark strength....stalling Totally agree with the previous speaker. At tick over the bike hardly produces any current, this starts at around 3000 rpm. A bike that is used regularly is easier on the battery than one that tends to stand for long periods. Some FZ's (including my Freddy) tend to overheat the battery and once it boils dry or partly dry that is very bad for the battery.
493 10/09/2008 02:59:03 JoelB Re: Spark strength....stalling OK. I checked the battery before a ride and it was at 12.68V. With the engine at 3-5k, it read 14.8V. With the engine off, turning on the ignition on caused the battery reading to drop to 12.5V and slowly falling. Turning the headlight on caused it to drop to 12.1V and slowly falling. Electrolyte levels are good. I normally don't leave the bike any more than a day or two, but I can leave it for five days and there is still enough juice in the battery to turn it at full speed for a good few seconds.
494 09/09/2008 21:49:15 FZ750Dude no power under 2500rpm I have an 86 and it has a yoshi pipe on it but it acts really bogged down until I get to like 2500-3000 rpm. If I want to launch/accelerate from a stop I have to slip the clutch until I get the rpms up above 3000. Is this normal or is something wrong? J
495 12/09/2008 21:54:08 JoelB Re: no power under 2500rpm So the question is, is it your pipes or something else? The first thing I'd do is to make sure the carbs are good. Clean them out to deal with the low speed running. Set the pilot jets as per the book. After you put them back on, check the float levels for good low/mid range performance. Then synchronise them.
496 09/09/2008 21:56:23 FZ750Dude looking to do a rebuild, need affordable parts Hi I have an 86 and am looking to do an overhaul this winter but I cant find the parts i need at a cost i can afford. If anyone knows of a company/website where I can get lower/upper rod bearing, rods, pistons, rings and new gaskets and oil seals please let me know. I am also trying to find some of the full lower fairings. Thanks, J
497 23/09/2008 20:51:03 jhafley Re: looking to do a rebuild, need affordable parts Of course there is always ebay. I have also had some luck at or bike Motogrid looks to have a little better prices. Depending on how much of a hurry you are in you can watch ebay or check the stores for gasket kits etc. I occasionally see heads, crankcases etc. on there but I haven't had to get anything that big yet. I am getting ready to replace my head gasket and that is where I got my replacement. Good luck Hafley
498 10/09/2008 03:11:55 JoelB Hard start when warm. Vapour lock? Is this a known issue? I can sometimes get past this by turning on and off a couple of times to run the fuel pump a bit before trying to start. I notice the pump runs quickly as if there is less hydraulic pressure. I don't have an overheating problem. I routed the fuel pump to carb pipe up around the frame but there is the tank to pump pipe which is still close to the engine, and what about the carb float bowls themselves?
499 10/09/2008 08:20:19 FZ750Horse Re: Hard start when warm. Vapour lock? Tank not breathing properly? If the engine's warm the pump shouldn't do much more than click once or twice when you turn the ignition on - it sounds like it's struggling to supply enough fuel. Try opening the filler cap to equalise the tank pressure - if that cures it check that the pipe running from under the filler cap to the rear of the tank and the rubber hose that connects to it aren't blocked/kinked. Good luck.
500 16/10/2008 03:15:03 JoelB Re: Hard start when warm. Vapour lock? The vent is clear, but it leads from he outer ring under the fuel cap. There is rubber on the cap sealing the hole directly. I can't see how this would vent the tank as the vent hole is outside?
501 17/10/2008 02:04:06 ganepeil Re: Hard start when warm. Vapour lock? Joel. the gas cap has a butterfly vent internally located in the lock area above it's sealing ring. the hole you see exposed when cap is open is for draining in the event of over filling tank.since valve has two flappers, easy checks are, opening when cold for suck, and opening hot for blow. if indeed this relates to your' fuel delivery prob, opening cap after fuel pump runs for prolonged period usually yeilds a easily discernable sound G
502 11/09/2008 19:00:03 tom86fz750 My successful repair for poor engine performance... ! I am the original owner of a 1986 FZ750S. Currently I have 56,000 miles on it and as of last night finally discovered the cause of my latest engine issue. Please refer back to my earlier post titled, "Reasons why my enginge dies intermitently". After several months of microscopic troubleshooting/teardown, the final result was a combination of two issues. The first gremlin was discovered upon dissecting my fuel pump only to learn that a essential wire had broke loose from its home and completely dissapear. My attempt to re-install this wire resulted in a bench test of confusion. So I bit the bullet yet again and purchased a, OEM fuel pump from because they have always come thru for me, everytime. After installing my pump which by the way was the culprit for my earlier woes. I discovered that carb #3 was spitting back gas when idling . As it turned out, the rubber gasket that seals the Needle Valve(part # 1FN-14107-12-00) was worn to the point that it allowed exxcess fuel to pass by and flood the float bowl. A new .999 metric O.D. rubber o ring from the local Auto Zone totally cured that problem and allowed me to go for a 2 hr late night ride with my MMI graduate buddy on his ZX10 to Bartlett Lake soon ther after. I'm totally devoted to my FZ but am beginning to wain on my contant repairs for the rock star. Off the top of my head, I'd guess that I have about 15K-20K in refurbishments and upgrades. Stuff like Kerker header JET-HOT coated in cherry red, poweder coated wheels, new top end, valve work, carb dynojetting, multiple windscreens blah blah blah. I'll never give up on my FZ! So long live FZ750 FREAKS Forum!! In conclusion, I may not be a professional bike tech, but I have touched every nut and bolt on my bike at least once. Please feel free to ask me about your troubleshooting questions and I will be more than happy to share my knowledge with you. Chat w'ya soon Tommy
503 13/09/2008 18:04:21 FZquadman CDI wiring I am having some trouble testing my pickup coil /ignitor unit. My engine is an 87 700cc model. I purchased a manual on cd rom but the wiring doesnt match mine. My box is marked TID 14-58 , 2KT-10 , 6X22. The manual wants to test using orange, gray and black wires, but mine only has gray and black.Also when checking my ignition coils my secondary coil was slightly out of spec.The plug wire leads look oxidized inside and I assume the wires are unreplaceable? BTW.. my bike is a rescued wreck turned into a quadrunner very fun to ride when running good. any help would be much apreciated
504 14/09/2008 09:36:22 JoelB Re: CDI wiring Hi FZquadman, With regards to your pickup coil, I have my Clymer manual in front of me and it states grey, orange and black only for the FZX700 and FZ750. It lists only grey and black for the FZ700. About your coil, your multimeter leads should be sharp so you can scrape a little and bite in to what you are measuring. If there is dirt your reading might possibly change if you don't hold still. Anyway, try again for a consistently repeatable result. Ten percent or so out wouldn't bother me too much, by the way.
505 14/09/2008 16:19:40 FZquadman Re: CDI wiring Thanks for the reply JoelB, i have another quick one about your manual what ohm rating does it state for testing? Mine asks for 190ohm+/- 10% but im getting 150ohm :-?
506 14/09/2008 18:37:23 JoelB Re: CDI wiring No problem, the FZ700 should be between 135-165 ohms.
507 15/09/2008 03:18:15 FZquadman Re: CDI wiring Thanks for the info this seems to narrow my weak spark issue down to the plug boot/resistors
508 15/09/2008 11:01:26 JoelB Re: CDI wiring I once had a problem with the boots going intermittent. Might've had something to do with the rain, can't remember but I don't trust them.
509 23/09/2008 21:25:52 jhafley I thought I was done Well, here is the latest. I put a new radiator on and that seemed to solve my cooling problem....except. I changed the oil and put 3 qts in and my have over filled the tank. I had oil shooting out 1 of the drain holes on the cylinder head on the outside. Did I mention I overheated it before I changed the radiator??? Now I have a small dribble of coolant coming out the right side drain hole when it is running, some blue smoke that smells a little like oil out the tailpipe and what looks to be an oil leak between the cylinder sleeves and the head. Now to my questions. 1. Is there a chance that this isn't a blown head gasket? 2. should I even bother trying to re torque the head down? 3. I ordered the head gasket and the gasket between the crank case and the cylinder sleeves looks good, so will I have to change it out too. 4. Can this be done without pulling the motor off the bike and is it worth it to try and do so. This is the most major engine surgery I have ever attempted on my own so I am going to need a lot of help. Good to know I can come here. You guys always come through. Looking forward to seeing what you guys have to say. Hafley :-o
510 24/09/2008 21:41:21 JoelB Re: I thought I was done It sounds like you're saying that oil is leaking by the head gasket, both out of the motor and into the cylinders....coolant too? Since you overheated your motor, you may have warped the head. (I don't think the overfill is the issue in this case) In my experience with warped heads, replacing the gasket and torquing the head down good and tight is a waste of time. Problem just comes back. A warped head should be decked flat first. If you do all the disassembly for them, an engine reconditioning place should deck your head for maybe $50?
511 28/09/2008 17:56:27 EagleHawk Re: I thought I was done Hafley, To my understanding, it is theoretically possible to pull the top half of the engine without removing it from the bike, but in personal experience, it's nowhere near worth the effort of trying to save the time of just dropping the engine and working on it on a bench somewhere. Re-torquing won't hurt anything, but probably won't help either once a head gasket has already blown. As I may have mentioned in previous posts, I had a similar problem that turned out to be a warped cylinder block instead of just the head. I'd have both checked/machined as needed to be safe. Also, in my case, machining the top of my old cylinder block did nothing, as the bottom was still warped. As soon as it heated up again, the bottom warp tried to flatten itself out, and the previously machined-flat top warped itself back to match the expansion of the rest of the block. BOTH top and bottom of your cylinder block need to be dead-on, as does the head. Initially, the bottom side might seal up ok if it's a few thousandths off, since there's a soft gasket there, but once everything warms up, you'll end up with a blown head gasket again. (This is all coming from my own personal experience.) The machine shop I had the work done at also recommended that I use the copper head gasket spray by Permatex on both sides of the gasket to ensure it established a good seal. Seems to have worked, as I have no leaks. Depending how involved you want to get, you might check out your valves once the head is off, and possibly have valve faces and seats re-ground to bring those back to optimum as well. Cheap and easy to replace valve guide seals while you have the head apart too. Probably not quite what you wanted to hear, but better to do it right the first time than the second. If you do end up pulling things apart, I took pictures of everything I did, so if you needed any pics of how things came apart or went back together, I'll probably have them. -Josh
512 29/09/2008 02:33:13 jhafley Re: I thought I was done Josh, Thanks for the advice. I will probably spend all winter working on this thing. I don't know when I will get started but it will be soon. I definately see your point about pulling the motor now that I look at it. The bottom seal on the cylinder block looks nice and tight right now, but I will pull both and have them checked. I am praying it is just the gasket as I am not sure how much more $$$ it will be worth to throw at this thing. If it didn't ride so sweet when it does run, I would have given up by now. I will definately have more questions and I am sure I will need to hit you up for those pics at some point. I appreciate the advice. Joel, Thanks for the tips. I guess if I have 2 people telling me the same thing, I am pretty much gonna go with it. Thanks again you guys, I will be in touch. :-o
513 29/09/2008 18:13:31 FZ750Horse Re: I thought I was done Just a thought - you could almost certainly buy a secondhand engine for less than the rebuild will cost. I have a couple, neither of which cost me more than ぴ5. I know you could end up buying a nail, but for the cost involved I'd be tempted to risk it. If all went well you could have the bike on the road while you work on your original, still have the satisfaction of rebuilding your original to A1 spec but without any time pressure. Good luck.
514 29/09/2008 19:34:11 EagleHawk Re: I thought I was done Secondhand definitely wouldn't be a bad option. Full rebuild (rebuilt head, new cylinder block, rings, gaskets, misc. bearings- pretty much everything except the pistons themselves) ended up costing me around $1000, which is almost double what I initially paid for the bike. It's an awesome little engine when it runs right, but just be ready for the prices on parts, as they're not cheap by any means. :-( -Josh
515 29/09/2008 23:45:57 jhafley Re: I thought I was done Thanks guys, I never even considered a used motor. I have looked on Ebay and there are currently 2 for $400 and $475 respectively. What is a fair price for one? I have a breaker in the area I'm gonna talk to but he's usually way overpriced. Thanks again. Hafley :-?
516 30/09/2008 07:17:29 FZ750Horse Re: I thought I was done I don't know what US prices are like but these engines are cheap in the UK. I bought one for ぴ0 and one for ぴ5 - I bought them mainly for the casings (worried about con rods on the track bike :-D ), so I don't know how good they are other than they both turn over ok. I've seen engines sold as "guaranteed" on eBay for ぷ0 - へ0 and I'd expect a 7 day return period if paying び50 from a breaker. Biggest problem is likely to be location, the weight makes them v. expensive to ship. I wasn't in a hurry so waited until the ones I bought came up within an hour's drive. Horse
517 27/09/2008 13:43:48 tom86fz750 Where might I locate a specific rated radiator cap? Greetings fellow FZ buddies. My current dilemma is locating an after market radiator cap that that will work on my 86 FZ750. My oem cap is rated a 0.6, but in my attempt to get my bike to stop overheating it was suggested that I replace it with a 1.1 version? Anyone got a source for obtaing that item? My 60k mile bike has suddenly got the overheating issuse that purges most of the coolant onto the pavement for reasons beyond me. The thermostat was removed and boil tested ok. The impeller pump as well was removed and bearings appear to not be the culprit. Anyone care to offer me some insight? Thanks Ya'll tom86fz750
518 27/09/2008 18:37:51 jhafley Re: Where might I locate a specific rated radiator cap? I am having the exact same problem. I found a replacement cap at Kragen Auto parts for a pretty reasonable price but I don't know what it is rated at. I also think I may have blown my head gasket and/or warped the head when it overheated. you may be getting exhaust pressure leaking into the cooling system causing it to blow out. That was one suggestion I got earlier. You also need to make sure the fins are clean and separate on your radiator and that coolant flows through there well. Good luck. Hafley
519 28/09/2008 08:41:52 tom86fz750 Re: Where might I locate a specific rated radiator cap? Hey buddy. Thanks for the reply. This past june I completed my first total engine teardown since purchasing it new in Feb 1986. The reason for the engine dissassembly was to repair a stuck transmission. It turned out to be a minutely bent shift fork. To answer your question about retorquing the heads, yes you pretty much need to remove the engine in order to do so. No matter what, you have to remove the radiator and could possibly just remove the bounty of mounting bolts located in the front. Leaving just that very most lower rear bolt that goes entirely from the left to right side and simply allow the front of the engine to lower down in the front. but by this time, you might as well bite the bullet and take the engine out entirely. After just having to learn how to remove my engine without any prior experience, I successfully learned it the hard way. From start to finish of my transmission repair job ended up going from Dec 2007 until June 2008. It's running like brand new now but has developed a confusing overheating issue that I can't figure out. Feel free to contact me if you need help. Where are you located at? I'm in AZ later Tom
520 16/10/2008 03:19:52 JoelB Fuel pump ticks too fast (Like 10 times a second) If this happens I can usually stop it by shaking the bike from side to side. When this happens, the pump slows until it stops ticking which seems normal. Sometimes it's hard to start if I don't do this first. If I shake the bike again I can make the pump start ticking fast again. Does this sound like the pump? (or wiring or fuel blockage?)
521 17/10/2008 01:37:46 ganepeil Re: Fuel pump ticks too fast Joel, some thoughts. offerings. 1st, if pump isn't receiving sufficent volumn of gas from tank (blocked petcock,low fuel,kinked line,plugged filter)then, pump would have little resistance and run fast. 2nd if pumps' valving is shot, it's not pushing fuel to spec. and would run fast. 3rd, fuel pumps are "one of the usual suspects" partly because of their age, and partly because of the goofy design Yamaha used in providing it power. since pump cycles, I doubt electrics are the issue. and since restriction from pump to carb would cause slow cycle, doubt that problem is after pump. hope these help, keep us in the loop. luck G
522 17/10/2008 04:03:40 JoelB Re: Fuel pump ticks too fast I don't think there's a blockage. I don't recall the air rush noise from the tank like you mentioned in the other thread (my car does this). I replaced the fuel filter. When I did this I needed new hosing from the tank to the pump through the filter. When the tank is disconected, the fuel gushes from it. I also recently did the carbs. Am I right in thinking from what you said that the pump is only ever meant to get 12V and not less, meaning the fast running doesn't sound like an electrical problem? My pump may not be standard. It doesn't seem come apart but it does look like some Yamaha pump I saw on ebay once...can't remember which. Is there a list of bikes I can get a pump from? or some specs on the pressure and regulated cut-off pressure of the FZ pump so I can find a suitable replacement?
523 18/10/2008 01:37:29 ganepeil Re: Fuel pump ticks too fast Joel, in brief,the fuel pump is just that, a 12vdc pump with a presure regulator which cuts off at @3.5 lbs. and is run by system/battery voltage whenever power is supplied. power is supplied via the fuel pump relay from ign.sw,kill sw. and cdi. when ign. or kill sw. is cycled, the cdi delivers power for @ 10 seconds filling float bowls, thus the typical tic tic tic tic tick tick... as float bowls fill and presure reg. comes into play. time & # of tic's depending on how much fuel it takes to presurise system. once the bike is running the pump sees constant voltage, UNLESS the fuel level sender tells the fuel pump relay it's time for reserve. in this case, the fuel pump relay cuts power to the the pump until reserve sw. is actuated, or fuel is added to tank.......... not so brief, sorry... possible donors are any carberated Yamaha's with external fuel pumps, their primary differeces being the angles/diameters of inlet/supply pipes. hope this helps G
524 25/10/2008 23:20:12 Fzcolors Re: Fuel pump ticks too fast Joel? you recently did your carbs? Did you replace the float valves? The only reasen that your fuelpump is ticking so fast, is that he is trying to fill to the carbs. When your bike is standing on it's side-stand, it will fill the bottom 2 carbs before te fuel reaches the top 2 carbs. That's the reason that your bike is starting beter if you shake the bike. Worn float valves is a big problem with the "old" Fz. if they are gone, they will leak fuel into the intake, and flood the cilinders. First signes are; -fuelpomps tick fast(only if the bike is standing more than a day or so -smell of fuel -bad starting with warm engine Also look for signes of floatchamber gasked leakage good luck mate
525 28/10/2008 05:47:49 JoelB Re: Fuel pump ticks too fast I may have solved it with a replacement pump. It's off a '00 R6 (replaced yesterday). Once the bowls are full before starting, it stops ticking altogether. So far it has started every time without problem. @ Fzcolors, I was thinking about all that. I sometimes smell fuel, but I guess that's probably to be expected at idle with an engine designed to perform at several thousand revs. When I did the carbs the needles seemed good. There were none of the telltale rings worn around the rubber cones. I checked the float levels anyway and they were close enough. @ ganepeil The pipe angles and diameters were different but no big deal. Thanks all.
526 29/10/2008 02:48:37 ganepeil Re: Fuel pump ticks too fast Joel, thanks for the up. Add-on, fuel smell is rare unless temps are high. a common prob w/fz's being that age'd radiators don't cool as well as they did new. thus High amient temps and lack of draft frequently cause temps to climb to the point where fuel boils/evaporates out of float bowls. if you should experiance this, a couple of opts which have worked for me are, fab ing a heat shield under float bowls (turkey basting pans are cheep and easy to form) and incorperating a switched ground to fan,thus actuating fan at will before temps reach the designed 220 degrees . hope these are un-needed and you're cruising smooth. G
527 29/10/2008 04:43:01 JoelB Re: Fuel pump ticks too fast Come to think of it, I haven't smelled the fuel for a while so I guess it must have been a loose hose clamp or something that was fixed when I did the filter. The fan switch sounds good. I hate being stuck in traffic and watching the gauge climb :-?
528 19/10/2008 19:55:48 jhafley will a 1989 fzr engine fit into a 1986 fz 750 chassis? Ok, So I think I found a good deal. I got a guy that is selling a 1989 fzr for less than $200. tires and engine are supposed to be good. I am not sure what size the engine is yet. I need a way to figure out the engine size and I am wondering if it will bolt in, will the head match my existing engine and if it is even worth the effort. I am hoping to avoid replacing that head gasket and/or have the head and cylinder block milled. Once again, I am counting on you guys to help me out. Thanks again in advance Hafley
529 21/10/2008 01:39:18 ganepeil Re: will a 1989 fzr engine fit into a 1986 fz 750 chassis? J, your' looking at two problems. 1st, going from dual pick-up to single,and from cradle to spar frames. both have been done., ign. requires a least a cdi, and 2nd fabbing a head stay, and re-routing coolant lines. after 88, cyl head angles were changed, causing slightly different exhaust angles. I havent done it, but have read where others have. in short. It can be done, but, 'tis not a drop-in like the 87-88 1000 engines like mine.luck G
530 21/10/2008 01:51:53 jhafley Re: will a 1989 fzr engine fit into a 1986 fz 750 chassis? Thanks G, you saved me a potential real headache. Hafley
531 25/10/2008 23:28:32 Fzcolors Re: will a 1989 fzr engine fit into a 1986 fz 750 chassis? 200 dollars for the complete bike??? DO IT!!!! Front fork is beter and can be fitted into te Fz easely en the wheels and brakes are perfect. last year, i payed 400 euro's for a complete front end off a fzr1000(3GM)
532 05/12/2008 18:36:30 cashman difficult start Overall, FZ has been running well lately. But, yesterday began to get more difficult to start. Usually I start with choke on when cold, but yesterday it just wouldn't fire up. I started to smell gas, so thinking I may have flooded it, I let it sit and tried to start with choke off. Sputtered and died. Tried again and this time a twist of the throttle brought it to life. Rode about 2 hours and stopped for lunch. An hour later same thing. Won't start unless I blip the throtttle as I'm depressing the started button. Choke makes it worse. Does this indicate not enough gas getting to engine? If so, any theories on why pulling choke out doesn't help? Maybe carb problem? I don't think it is related but because the crappy, 22 year old, wire loom was only delivering ~8-9 volts to the ignitor, I recently installed a relay that hits the ignitor with 12-volts directly from the battery when the start button is pushed. I don't see how this could cause the problem I'm now having but it is the only thing I've changed recently. Thanks for reading...Thoughts?
533 10/12/2008 00:51:00 ganepeil Re: difficult start Cashman, Needing open throttle w/out choke usually indicates too much fuel, not a lack. fuel smell concures. probale causes, poor seals at float valve/s , nearly fouled plugs and wayyy out of left field... a fuel pump delivering more pressure than std.or failing to cut of flow when off. luck g
534 11/12/2008 18:12:18 cashman Re: difficult start Gane, thanks for that. I pulled the plugs. They had a large amount of carbon build-up. Changed out and bike fired up straight away. In your opinion, should I also check the float valve seals? I'm thinking the build-up might be from the bike running rich?
535 12/12/2008 01:05:47 ganepeil Re: difficult start Cashman, Carbon build-up can be from rich jetting, running on choke, or most common, burning oil. leaky floats usually foul plugs before build-up occurs. since you've had past prob's w/ overheating, unless you've had other carb issues, ie: needing prolonged choke, stumble at bottom when rolling on, etc, I would put a couple hundred miles on your' new plugs and then check them. visual inspection of float valves seldom reveal much, tho a good carb cleaning never hurts, and often restores zest you didn't know was missing. luck g
536 23/12/2008 14:22:00 antz258 clutch cylider and activator rod recently bought a 1989 fz 750 genesis as a figher project but the engine is missing the clutch activator rod and the clutch cylinder (not handle bar master cylinder) anyone know where i can find the parts or if im lucky anyone on here got them for sale? cheers antz258
537 23/12/2008 19:14:41 FZ750Horse Re: clutch cylider and activator rod Slave cylinders come up on eBay quite regularly, but change the seals before you fit a second hand one - they tend to fail at regular intervals. You'll probably have to go to a dealer for the rod but i wouldn't expect it to be expensive. Good luck, Horse
538 29/12/2008 17:11:38 85fz7505v Bike can't fire up Well it's been a while since I've been here, and there's a good reason for that, I have gotten really lazy and haven't done anything on the bike for a while. Anyway, I have a 85 fz750N and I got 2 problems to share with you guys: 1. The bike will crank but it won't fire up, I can't smell any fuel coming out of the exhaust so it doesn't seem like any fuel is coming out of the carbs for some reason. -When I was working on it before, I cleaned and rebuilt the carbs and put a dynojet stage 1 kit on it (I went to a shop and had it tested for leaks and it seemed fine. -I forgot to tighten the fuel drain screw on the float bowl once and when I kept cranking the bike, a ton of fuel was pouring out, so the fuel SHOULD be going to the engine (maybe my sense of smell sucks?) 2. The bike won't start up sometimes unless I smack the starter relay. I know, new relay right? Well, I'm just thinking if it could be anything else? Thanks in advance guys.
539 29/12/2008 20:49:44 ganepeil Re: Bike can't fire up 85, Failure to crank then cranking after tapping solonoid is indeed almost always due to either its piston sticky in bore, or arc'd contacts. a couple of checks, unplug bl/wh wire at sol. by connecting sol wire to ground, two things should happen,1, a click at sol, 2nd crankage. next chec is an educated guess, (not knowing exactly how the turnsignal relay works in entirety) but, by connecting an ohm meter between bl/wh on harness side of sol, (key off)and ground, pressing starter button should give continuity, probly < 3 ohms. if not, back probe bl/wh at r/h hbar sw, and re-check for cont. starter depressed. Hard starting after setting & cold is often due to low batt/slow cranking/moderatly wet plugs. charging batt/jumper, and cranking w/wout choke, and a hint of throttle usually does the trick for me. hope this helps. G
540 17/03/2009 21:18:28 FZ750Dude Re: Bike can't fire up Hard starting after setting & cold is often due to low batt/slow cranking/moderatly wet plugs. charging batt/jumper, and cranking w/wout choke, and a hint of throttle usually does the trick for me' I agree with ganepeil. I know after my FZ sits for a while or the battery starts to die even a little the bike wont start, even though it appears to be cranking over enough that you would think it could start. I hook it up to my car or something and it fires right up. I guess they should have put bigger batteries in them.
541 18/03/2009 10:24:02 JoelB Re: Bike can't fire up I found that when my battery starts to age and die, it will not hold a charge for a week but when the battery is new it will crank strongly after sitting for a week. Once I notice this, I give the battery a few more months before I expect to need to change it. I also find a little throttle and no choke can help. I think I read somewhere that could mean a rich idle mixture but I don't seem to have an excessive smell of fuel at idle so I don't know.
542 08/01/2009 09:00:18 Golaser Cam Chain Hi Guys, I have an 87 FZ750 and it sounds like the cam chain has a bit of a rattle. Is the cam chain tension adjustable, if so, what is the procedure? Does anyone know where I could get a copy of a good workshop manual? Many thanks
543 08/01/2009 11:05:55 JoelB Re: Cam Chain WRT the manual, I ordered one through my local for about $50. It is a Clymer. It seems to be a good one with plenty of detail photos though there seems to be an error re setting the float levels. I've heard of one floating around the net, but back when I looked I couldn't find the exact model or language to suit.
544 08/01/2009 19:58:58 FZ750Horse Re: Cam Chain I don't think that FZ cam chains often go wrong. I suspect you may be hearing a worn bearing behind the clutch drum. This is a more common fault and can sound like a chain flapping about. It's usually only noticeable at a slow tickover or when you cause the revs to dip by slipping the clutch. Horse
545 17/03/2009 04:47:12 bnail 2nd gear is weak in my 85fz750/88 FZR1000 motor .Bought a 87 1000 trans off ebay. will it swap? Is it a direct swap out? If so I'd like to have it gone over/ undercut and have it ready to swap so I don't forget how i took it apart! To clarify... I have a 1988 FZR1000 motor (5speed trans.) in a 1985 FZ750. I bought a 1987 FZR1000 trans and am wondering if anybody knows if it's a direct swap???? THNKS!
546 19/03/2009 00:37:33 ganepeil Re: 2nd gear is weak in my 85fz750/88 FZR1000 motor .Bought a 87 1000 trans off ebay. will it swap? Streetcar, yes I've done it. G
547 17/03/2009 21:38:45 FZ750Dude Issues with engine starting/idleing I have a 86 fz750 with a yoshi 4-1 pipe. It does have 37,000 miles on it so its not exactly fresh. (stock jets and PCV hooked to nothing) I put uni pod filters on it and when I tried to run it, it is somewhat difficult to start and giving it just a little throttle does help but then I have to keep it running to warm it up before it will even stay running with the choke. Plus it started to overheat on long rides. And when I ride it and stop or just pull in the clutch to go around a turn it barely idles and tries to catch itself and then dies within twenty seconds. I took the pilots and main jets up two steps and it didnt overheat on the long rides but the starting got worse and the while riding stayed the same. I created a system to plumb the PCV to the pod filters and Now it is just about impossible to start and keep running. I havent been able to even ride it like that. I took the pilots back to stock and kept the PCV plumbing and now it is a little easier to start, though still I still have to warm it up before it will stay running, and when it dies while riding it takes quite a bit to get it started again. I am EXTREMELY confused, any help would be greatly appreciated.
548 18/03/2009 10:31:17 JoelB Re: Issues with engine starting/idleing I had a problem with cutting out after stopping. I had to set the idle high and it would either rest at 3000 or die after a number of seconds. I rebuilt the carb twice. Once to clean it and patch the diaphragms and set the float levels. The second time I had to repatch the diaphragms, I found no blockages but I synched the carbs and this time it idled and has ever since. About the overheating, I find that traffic does it to me. Running in a low gear to keep the water pump turning faster doesn't seem to help. Steady higher speed moving does help the cooling.
549 18/03/2009 22:35:25 FZ750Dude Re: Issues with engine starting/idleing Ok thanks. I will see about getting them synced. Do you have any recomendations on the starting? Because it has to warm up before it will idle does this indicate that it is to lean? For having an aftermarket pipe and pod filters I would imagine I would have to go bigger than stock but it didnt seem to change anything, unles two steps was to much?
550 18/03/2009 22:52:49 JoelB Re: Issues with engine starting/idleing I have pipes and pods. With regards to the mixtures, in my experience it just didn't want to idle right until tuned so I wouldn't go trying to change them until I did that first.
551 29/03/2009 19:24:06 FZ750Dude Re: Issues with engine starting/idleing Ok I synced them and that did the trick. It idles fine now thanks joel
552 19/03/2009 15:08:46 FZ750Dude Engine sounds like marbels? I have an 86 and when the engine is just idleing the front right side of the cases sounds like it has marbels rolling aroung in it. Is this a bad bearing or is that normal?
553 20/03/2009 00:52:57 ganepeil Re: Engine sounds like marbels? FZ. crank is plain bearings through out so doubt that is source. can be checked by slipping into gear and applying light load at stop. bad crank/rod bearings will make a knocking sound. My guess for 1st check would be worn clutch basket, they often rattle a bit at idle, a long screwdriver or mechanic's stethoscope may help locate. luck G
554 22/03/2009 13:58:54 PerPilot Carburettor rebuild Hi all, I'm doing up a carburettor bank. I need some new gaskets and a couple of other bits. Does anybody know any parts suppliers that don't rip you off completely. I've tried and, but they don't have everything. Per
555 24/03/2009 22:27:31 buzz87 Re: Carburettor rebuild I just scored a Sweet Deal on an almost complete engine with carburetor and CDI. I haven't received it yet, but if I end up with a spare set of carb boots, I'll let you know. Since I already have one spare set I will part with a third set. Also all - If the CDI is not for my year, I will be putting that up for sale, too. Stay tuned. I'll let y'all know what's in the box when it comes :-x
556 24/03/2009 22:30:55 buzz87 Possible parts coming up This is a repost of a comment of mine on another post: I just scored a Sweet Deal on an almost complete engine with carburetor and CDI. I haven't received it yet, but if I end up with a spare set of carb boots, I'll let you all know. Since I already have one spare set I will part with a third set. Also all - If the CDI is not for my year, I will be putting that up for sale, too. Stay tuned. I'll let y'all know what's in the box when it comes and what all is available that I won't be needing:-x Just so everyone knows: I WILL NOT be parting out the engine, so don't ask for any of those bits please! :-) Thanks.
557 31/03/2009 21:12:40 simonpk valve timing!!! Hello people .. I need to check that the cam chain has not jumped a tooth so I need the timing info. The reason I think it has moved is that she stopped dead and the front drive sprocket span off !! Thanks in advance, please ask for more info if needed :-)
558 01/04/2009 00:06:39 daddyjay Re: valve timing!!! Silly question but.... are you sure it didn't stop dead BECAUSE the sprocket span off? :-?
559 03/04/2009 16:34:41 simonpk Re: valve timing!!! no i think it is slightly more serious than i have the "rocker box" off i just need to know where the punch marks align when at tdc,but thanks for your input/ :-D
560 04/04/2009 01:40:31 ganepeil Re: valve timing!!! locating marks are found on the raised bosses which mount cam sprockets on the #3 side and will align w teats on cam holders. luck G
561 04/04/2009 08:54:22 simonpk many thanks thank you , i can now get on :-D
562 04/04/2009 12:45:27 simonpk had another look ok there are no marks on the bosses just punch marks on the sprockets, the cam holders have a raised line exactly in the middle. they also have a hole that aligns itself with a hole in the cam shafts. when viewed directly from above is this like the holes you get on a transit for holding it all together when replacing a timing belt. or aint they that helpfull !!! i should also say that i cannot get the punch marks to be upright together or in line with anything remotely useful. it makes me think something has moved,sorry for being a pain.but now the sunshine is here i wanna be ragging her about..S
563 04/04/2009 23:43:27 ganepeil Re: had another look Simon, Have cams in lap, with exaust #1 lobe @ 10 o'clock and intake lobe #1 @ 2 o'clock, I have a slight raised area at rh side under sprocket mounts which are staked. point is moot, stakes are exactly in line with holes in cams. therefore, if you align tower & cam holes and have #1 lobes as described, and crank at 1-4 tdc. proceed. Luck G
564 05/04/2009 17:56:50 simonpk are you bored yet !!! ok that was top stuff . something definately out of whack here last question where the hell is the crank mark,and what do i line that up to? i have used a screwdriver in the plug hole to find tdc,but i would like to know ,and make sure im bang on, i read somewhere on line that the fz has an inspection window, i have removed the crank end covers, left hand side has a hole, and is verticle when screwdriver is "up" is that it? cant be its too vague! once again thanks for your help, just hope after all this the valves hae not been bent to hell,S
565 05/04/2009 21:01:51 ganepeil Re: are you bored yet !!! Simon, in front of the l/h crank cover {3 oval screws) there is a round slotted plug @ the size of a quarter. removing this exposes the crank timing mark etched into crank flyweight. there will be a line and above it a T both nearly invisible. align the line with the teat in the case front. once found, mark w/ white out or similiar for future reference. luck G
566 07/04/2009 12:03:20 simonpk thanks again brilliant thank you for your patience and your info.she is all timed up,onward and upward .peace simon. :-D
567 26/04/2009 21:11:22 evillone bearing behind the front sprocket?? can the bearing behind the front sprocket be removed without removing the engine? ( 1987 fz700 is the bike at question) the bearing us chewed up a bit. email me with any info
568 26/04/2009 21:20:53 ganepeil Re: bearing behind the front sprocket?? E. No,cases must be split, and in order to seperate cases, top end has to come off. Sorry G
569 02/05/2009 15:16:52 simonpk pipes everywhere its a carb thing... hello people so engine in the bike at last.polished and painted.fingers crossed but no vroom vroom,i know she is sparking on all four the pump is squirting.. so i figure its im gonna clean em.. properly this time but can somebody tell me where the 6mm pipes go to and from? one from the air the other blanked off whats the deal are they vacuum pipes ? i guess i should of looked a bit closer when i pulled it all to bits.i would buy a manual but my local dealer is as much use as tits on a fish, thanks in advance .S k :-D
570 02/05/2009 16:41:42 PeterL Re: pipes everywhere its a carb thing... Gave you a reply but for some reason it came out as a new post, so look there under same heading hope it helps, anyway you'll find it, PeterL.
571 02/05/2009 16:42:12 PeterL Re: pipes everywhere its a carb thing... Gave you a reply but for some reason it came out as a new post, so look there under same heading hope it helps, anyway you'll find it, PeterL.
572 03/06/2009 22:36:41 FZ750Dude Re: pipes everywhere its a carb thing... hey dont know if you've figured it out yet but there should be three hoses going to the airbox. One I believe is the drain hose right up the middle and the I believe the pcv hose splits into two hoses and goes one to the left side and one to the right side.
573 02/05/2009 16:33:05 PeterL pipes everywhere its a carb thing Hi, Bit hard to tell from your info,but checking the book (Clymer) some bikes have a emission control which has a 6mm pipe to carburetor and fuel tank and a fresh air pipe which would come from airbox? it states all US models from "85 had this, can send you relevant pages from manual if you like just contact my email address. PeterL.
574 03/05/2009 22:00:23 fz-andy Pilot Jets Hi guys, does anyone know what size the pilot jets are on the FZ carbs? I have the 2MG 1989 Genesis model cheers
575 04/05/2009 13:41:13 JoelB Will an 87-88 FZR1000 block and pistons fit into an 85 FZ750 case/head? if not, what other models will (750 or 1000)?
576 07/05/2009 11:09:20 mike760 Re: Will an 87-88 FZR1000 block and pistons fit into an 85 FZ750 case/head? HI JoelB There lots of information posted on this you have to go to 2006, 2007 files if they still on this site, basic answer is the barrels will go on a very popular upgrade, but you need to do some head work in order to gain correct flow, ie change head also over to a FZR1000 much better and cheaper. to find do a search FZR1000 on this website mike760
577 06/05/2009 22:12:54 FZ750Horse Ignitor box I have a spare 1FN ignitor box - both my FZs have 2MG engines. Does anyone want to do a straight swap for a 2MG ignitor?
578 11/05/2009 17:24:33 matt1987 thermostat and seal issues recently the water pump housing on my '85 fz started leaking, and it's just a drip here or there, but I decided to replace both the thermostat and pump seals. when I opened up the thermostat housing, i was shocked, the previous owner had removed the thermostat (kinda makes sense now why the bike was cold tempered and didn't like to idle consistantly. Big question here is do I have to spend $50 for the yamaha OEM thermostat, or is there one out there made by other companies that is an OEM replacement, like Stant, or one of the other major makers? Do any of you have a thermostat housing you'd like to sell that already has a working little bugger in it? Also looking for a radiator fan, side covers, rear brake caliper pins and cover, and a windshield.
579 11/05/2009 19:29:33 FZ750Dude Bike is hard to start when cold I have an 86 fz750. I had 37,000 miles on the motor (motor-1) but it ran good and started and idled fine. I got a really good deal on a parts bike with 17,000 miles (motor-2) so I swapped the motors. The cams and everything were removed because the previous owner was gonna adjust the valves and lost interest in the bike. I replaced as best I could and the bike ran good and idled fine again. But I decided to take the head from motor-1 with already set valves and put it on currently installed motor-2. After installing motor-1 head, now the bike wont start hardly at all when its cold. If the bike sits overnight or even 4 hours I go out and can crank on it til the battery is dead. I put jumper cables to my car and it cranks for a long while with just an occasional fire just enough to dissengage the starter, then eventually it will start, rev to about 400 rpm then die, then after doing that for a while it will start and if I hold the throttle open more than 1/4 it will stay revving at about 600rpm for about two minutes and if you let off it immediately dies. After 2 min it will rev up like normal and idle just fine. I can ride it, it runs just fine, idles perfect, starts perfect, and has normal power. When I originally had this problem after installing head, I pulled the valve cover off and reinstalled the cams just to make sure the timing was right and it was/is. Plugs, oil, oil filter, and head gasket are all new. Did I not tighten the head right and it loses compression until it gets hot? Any help?
580 12/05/2009 11:09:15 mike760 Re: Bike is hard to start when cold Sound like no compression and bad spark plug or foul plugs, make sure you have tighten bolt to spec nm and replace the plugs, if you like blow some air inside, put plugs in and start, work for my engine that had similar but had compression when cold. if you still having trouble remove tank and disengage the fuel pump create self gravity feed fuel line, also clean out the fuel bowls in the carb's, my be dirty after sitting when you change heads.
581 14/05/2009 00:52:01 FZ750Dude Re: Bike is hard to start when cold The plugs are new and it did the same thing with two sets of plugs. I tightened the head bolts to spec today. they were a lil loose but it still does the same thing. If I cant find the solution to this problem real soon I'm gonna get real pissed with this bike. every time I try to work on it and fix it, one more thing screws up. I have been fighting this bike for the last eight months through thing after thing after riding it for nine months through nine thousand miles with not so much as a hicup. Any more suggestions?
582 15/05/2009 11:41:26 mike760 Re: Bike is hard to start when cold you could have a sticky slide in the carb, this gives the same result. have you also check the valve clearence could be a little off, this give bad valve operation causing open and close timing. Question how much smoke is it blowing after it warms out and what colour? also recommend to clean the carbs out sound like a carbon build up on the pistons from incomplete burn, may need some better ingitor fuild not sure of the name of followed with fuel cleaners and, there some product that help keep the piston clean. Do a compression test this will help to determine the issue if you have tighten the block correctly.
583 15/05/2009 20:26:14 FZ750Dude Re: Bike is hard to start when cold It does not smoke at all. Just the little that every engine does when its cold outside but it doesnt smoke at all from oil or coolant. I will try cleaning the carbs again but they only sat for like 16 hours before they were back on the bike again. Whatever the problem is it happened ouvernight with the changing of the head. It started fine before and crappy after. Im just confused about it because this head started just fine on the original motor. I will try a compression check and try cleaning the carbs again and flash cleaning the mechanicals
584 14/05/2009 16:09:47 yzergod Will a set of FZR1000 carbs work on my FZ750? Hello all, Seems like this would be a better forum for my question. I have a '85 FZ750N that I [i][u]purchased new[/u][/i] from the dealer in 85. I have had it stored for the past 8 years and have just pulled it out to restore it and get it running again. Since it will probably be easier to swap out the carbs rather than take them apart and clean them, I was wondering if there would be any benifit to putting a set of FZR1000 carbs on there instead. Anybody heard of or actually done this? I imagine that they would be a bit bigger resulting in a bit more kick? Any insight appreciated!
585 14/05/2009 22:40:11 JoelB Re: Will a set of FZR1000 carbs work on my FZ750? Well since you don't have a reply yet, I've never done it but I hear others say that the standard FZ is one of the best fuelling carb bikes there is when properly maintained. As far as I know, the racers do a little jetting but they don't stray far from stock. Hope this helps.
586 15/05/2009 02:42:35 ganepeil Re: Will a set of FZR1000 carbs work on my FZ750? Yzer, 1000 carbs can be fit, but gains are negligible in street application. the time/effort spent in jetting/fitting would be roughly the same as restoring stock. As one who's gone the route, I sometimes wonder If I did the right thing. Stock Brakes were barely adaquate for spirited riding, on a package which was (in stock form) a joy. my 2 cents g
587 08/09/2009 14:54:54 yzergod Re: Will a set of FZR1000 carbs work on my FZ750? YZF/TRX all the same from that era by the looks. There are certain touches I like to see on an FZ regardless of modifications. I found some original (pattern) FZ styled indicators on ebay from Thailand with smoked lenses which look super cool but I haven't been brave enough to order any yet as I'm a bit skint & indicators are the least of my FZ worries at the mo. :lol: All I did to make your pictures show was place [img] in front of your link & [/img] after it & they showed. :-D Oops just realised this is Kevins thread to show pictures of GelnnYam's bike. Sorry for invading it Kev. :oops:
588 16/05/2009 00:48:11 crash29 spark problems Hi everyone I have a 85 fz750 spent the winter replacing all trans bearing, seals and painting the engine and frame. Last week i tried starting it and couldn't seem to get any spark. So far I've tested the coils, pick ups, fuses, checked power between ignitor and coils (there is pwr) checked all conectors and grounds. everything else on the bike works fine. I tried swapping the coils, ignitor with a spare set and nothing still. the bike ran fine last fall when i parked it. I'm not sure how to test the ignitor, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
589 16/05/2009 01:04:51 ganepeil Re: spark problems Crash, The only way I'm familiar with to chk ignitor is to swap out. Have you checked,Neutral sw./sidestand sw./clutch sw.? luck G
590 16/05/2009 22:04:57 crash29 Re: spark problems yes i checked all switches, and i called the Yamaha dealer and they say there's no way to test the ignitor. I'll go through everything again this week and if i can't find the problem, i guess I'll be looking for another ignitor. thanks for the reply ganepeil.
591 28/05/2009 04:10:56 crash29 Re: spark problems finally found the problem it was the side stand relay! its great to be back on the Fz. :-D
592 17/05/2009 02:14:47 85fz7505v Bike cranks occasionally, pump runs faster when the start button is pushed? Taken from another of my threads "Well it's been a while since I've been here, and there's a good reason for that, I have gotten really lazy and haven't done anything on the bike for a while. Anyway, I have a 85 fz750N and I got 2 problems to share with you guys: 1. The bike will crank but it won't fire up, I can't smell any fuel coming out of the exhaust so it doesn't seem like any fuel is coming out of the carbs for some reason. -When I was working on it before, I cleaned and rebuilt the carbs and put a dynojet stage 1 kit on it (I went to a shop and had it tested for leaks and it seemed fine. -I forgot to tighten the fuel drain screw on the float bowl once and when I kept cranking the bike, a ton of fuel was pouring out, so the fuel SHOULD be going to the engine (maybe my sense of smell sucks?) 2. The bike won't start up sometimes unless I smack the starter relay. I know, new relay right? Well, I'm just thinking if it could be anything else? Thanks in advance guys." Update: 1. I tried cranking my bike one day and it cranked, then afterwards the next day it couldn't crank. I read your replies, you guys say that the piston is probably sticky in the bore. I tried tapping the relay and it still wouldn't start. I have yet to try to ground the solenoid/starter because that day I was so happy to get it to crank, but I will try that tomorrow. Any other ideas? BTW, after not running for 2 years, the battery is completely charged 2. The fuel pump seems to "click" faster when I press the start button. As far as I know, last time I got the bike working, the pump only clicked when I hit the engine cut-off no? Is this normal?
593 17/05/2009 06:53:05 JoelB Re: Bike cranks occasionally, pump runs faster when the start button is pushed? The pump ticking faster generally means it is delivering more fuel but it should stop ticking before you crank the engine. When the bike has been sitting, you might turn on and the pump will tick a little. It will stop after a preset time and if you turn the kill switch off and on again, it may tick some more. It will tick more slowly and eventually stop. If yours keeps on ticking then you may have an airlock or a faulty pump. Pump faults are common. I replaced mine with a '98 R6 pump, basically the same.
594 17/05/2009 14:41:45 FZ750Horse Re: Bike cranks occasionally, pump runs faster when the start button is pushed? Re. your cranking problem - I'd always check the simple things first. If the bike stood for two years there's a very good chance the battery has had it, especially if it stood through a couple of cold winters. Bear in mind that just because the charging and output voltages look good and a battery charger says it's ok, that doesn't mean that it is. The amount of current it can deliver is also important and that's difficult to measure in most home garages (sorry if you knew all this, but lots of people don't). I'd get the battery checked at a dealer or try the bike with a battery that you KNOW to be good before looking further afield. Good luck, Horse
595 19/05/2009 03:30:53 85fz7505v Re: Bike cranks occasionally, pump runs faster when the start button is pushed? Joel B -> It DOES stop ticking after a preset time but if I immediately press the start switch after the engine kill switch it will click faster. But after reading your post it's probably normal then. FZ750horse -> The battery was actually brand new from 2 years ago, I replaced it when I was REALLY into getting my bike done. I never rode my bike with the new battery. I just kept having to charge it because I leave the bike outside for so long, and it loses voltage over time. When I charge it though, I always use like 2 amps and leave it overnight.
596 19/05/2009 03:50:26 JoelB Re: Bike cranks occasionally, pump runs faster when the start button is pushed? Not sure about normal, if I understand correctly mine acted like that for a while before it died. It was just intermittent. Shaking the bike sometimes helped. While riding it was also intermittent but the vibration seemed to keep it coming back in and delivering enough fuel so as not to notice a problem with normal street riding. Eventually it became to unreliable and I noticed issues when riding but by far the biggest issue for a long time was starting.
597 28/05/2009 21:27:44 85fz7505v Re: Bike cranks occasionally, pump runs faster when the start button is pushed? Ok so today I went out and did some tests based on the instructions given to me: "85, Failure to crank then cranking after tapping solonoid is indeed almost always due to either its piston sticky in bore, or arc'd contacts. a couple of checks, unplug bl/wh wire at sol. by connecting sol wire to ground, two things should happen,1, a click at sol, 2nd crankage. next chec is an educated guess, (not knowing exactly how the turnsignal relay works in entirety) but, by connecting an ohm meter between bl/wh on harness side of sol, (key off)and ground, pressing starter button should give continuity, probly < 3 ohms. if not, back probe bl/wh at r/h hbar sw, and re-check for cont. starter depressed. Hard starting after setting & cold is often due to low batt/slow cranking/moderatly wet plugs. charging batt/jumper, and cranking w/wout choke, and a hint of throttle usually does the trick for me. hope this helps. G " Written by ganepeil The first test - I didn't have a connector to disconnect from due to incompetent mechanics that last worked on it, so I used a jumper wire connecting the solenoid (where the bl/wh wire connects) to the ground terminal of the battery. Motorcycle cranks, so no problem test PASSED. The second test - I got the result of over 3 ohms when I pushed the button. so test FAILED The third test - I didn't understand this, starting from "back probe" so I didn't do it. ganepeil, your help is appreciated. If anyone else understands this feel free to chip in, thanks.
598 28/05/2009 23:40:39 JoelB Re: Bike cranks occasionally, pump runs faster when the start button is pushed? Backprobing is where you move along a wire with your tester to find the point where it is broken. This isn't necessary as you did get a reading. Did you subtract the internal/cable resistance of your meter from the reading? (Put the meter on low ohms, touch the two probes and note the reading)
599 29/05/2009 23:30:29 85fz7505v Re: Bike cranks occasionally, pump runs faster when the start button is pushed? Well for some reason the resistance was fluctuating between 5 and 8 ohms, and I'm sure it wasn't my doing because I lay the needles on the contacts without even touching the machine, it kept fluctuating. Internal resistance is 0.03 ohms
600 20/05/2009 22:11:54 crash29 pick up coils I have a 85 fz 750 and my pick up coils are reading 137ohms, 147ohms (my spare set are measuring the same) would this cause a no spark problem? the manual says 171-209ohms. bike ran fine when parked last fall. thanks
601 09/06/2009 19:13:34 DVS-BSTD Will not start I just got this bike(86 FZ750)and I am pretty sure its flooding out...I have spark and fuel but it wont run.... the guy I got it from had to put his hand over the tops of the carbs and play with it like that to get it to crank.....Any Help would be greatly appreciated
602 22/06/2009 14:29:19 pat180269 Re: Will not start If the bike has been stood any length of time, try charging the battery fully and then drain the tank and use fresh fuel.
603 26/07/2009 02:01:26 fzpilot Re: Will not start a mate(brett2trueblue) who bought my fz had the same trouble. bike would spin over for eternity but no bang. found the inlet valves had no or negligible clearance when cold (no compression, maybe why previous owner got it to start whilst covering carbs). but when warmed up would fire no worries. might pay to get them checked out. cheers Ben.
604 23/06/2009 18:23:46 xaero FZR1000 Engine in FZ750 I'm working on preparing for the swap I've got everything around the Engine, Carbs, CDI even a spare harness from the FZR1000 I'm just a lil mixed up with the wiring issue... I've got both service manuals and maybe I'm just electrically challenged, but what wires do I swap around I've noticed that the FZ750 on the 6 plug connection has only 5 wires where as the FZR1000 has 6 the BLUE/WHITE and I just lost? Is there a guide somewhere out there? Or is it simply possible that this BLUE/WHITE wire labeled FUEL PUMP RELAY does nothing being that the FZ has no RELAY?
605 30/06/2009 21:34:31 gaz69 Main Jet Sizes I've bought a second hand set of carbs for my 88 FZ, these carbs a single pill cable so I presume they are early ones as the ones fitted to mine are twin push/pull. I removed the bowls on the new carbs and saw that it had 128 Mains fitted! Can any one tell me what the standard mains are? I thought about 108 ish, Cheers Gaz
606 02/07/2009 14:45:46 xaero Re: Main Jet Sizes The standard is 105 if you need a pair I've got tons of spare carbs I can hook you up with a set of mains.
607 02/07/2009 18:50:41 FZ750Horse Re: Main Jet Sizes There are quite a few differences between 1FN and 2MG carbs. Have a look at the needles; if they're all the same and taper to a point you have the earlier carbs and the jets were 105. If the two outer carbs have blunt-ended needles they're later and have different sized jets for the middle and outer carbs (I think either 102.5/105 or 105/107.5, but I'd have to check). I'd definitely pull them to bits and thoroughly clean everything anyway - gummed up carbs cause most of the FZ's running problems. Cheers, Horse
608 01/07/2009 03:27:49 alex_dee Transmission trouble i just recently bought my frist motorcycle which happens to be a 87 fz750 anyways i was riding it to the local canadian tire while i was shifting between fourth and fifth the bike did't go into fifth it was like it was in netural so i stoped and turned the bike off and put it in frist then starrted it up y did the bike do that? remeber i am new to bikes but very familear with cars
609 01/07/2009 04:41:00 JoelB Re: Transmission trouble Could you mean fifth and sixth? I have noticed that many Yamahas tend to have a neutral before top gear like a mirror image of real neutral. I usually find out by accident. No idea why.
610 01/07/2009 07:45:35 Graham Re: Transmission trouble Is it ok now ? CAn you get all your gears no problem ?
611 01/07/2009 18:14:07 FZ750Horse Re: Transmission trouble By the way you phrased your post - "Didn't go into 5th" rather than "Wouldn't go into 5th" - I think you probably just found a false neutral. These are common on most bike gearboxes (which work differently to a car gearbox)and nothing to worry about. It usually happens if you're a bit too gentle with the shift lever - a firm approach is best! If you do hit one, just pull the clutch in and shift UP - shifting down from a false neutral usually results in an alarming clunk.
612 01/07/2009 20:52:48 daddyjay Re: Transmission trouble As horse said it's quite common to find a false neutral specially as the bike is new to you. Might be worth spending half an hour setting the controls up to suit you. Doesn't take much to adjust levers, switch gear and pedals to fit you but makes a big difference to riding enjoyment.
613 01/07/2009 21:59:41 alex_dee Re: Transmission trouble thanks you for the quick replys and it very well could have been bettween 5 and 6 the bikes fine i was just curious if its gonna be a problem so bassically be more firm with my bike thank you
614 23/07/2009 22:07:18 alex_dee oil so as some of u know i just puicked up my frist fz750 and its time to change the oil BUT in the hanes repair manuale it calles for 20w40 witch i am haveing trouble locating would 20w50 be fine??
615 24/07/2009 21:00:22 EagleHawk Re: oil You should be fine with that. That's what I typically run, as it's more readily available. -J
616 26/07/2009 02:30:20 oops-sorry can somebody tell me float height im working on my 87 fz700. thanks
617 26/07/2009 18:49:42 JMPDFZ700 Re: can somebody tell me float height Hi, I just flipped through the factory manual, and all it talks about is setting the fuel height with a fuel gauge to be between 7.3 and 9.3 mm using trial and error. I'm guessing you don't have the plastic floats on your FZ700? I just rebuilt the carbs on mine and have no idea if it's even possible to adjust the plastic floats.
618 27/07/2009 01:38:36 PeterL Re: can somebody tell me float height Hi, Dont know the 700 but on the fz750 there is a mark on the bottom of the float bowl "float chamber line" you can use a fuel level gauge and adjust the fuel and float level/height by bending the float tang, can send you relevant pages from manual if you want. PeterL.
619 27/07/2009 19:22:33 Nosforatu Re: can somebody tell me float height Hi tried to scan this in earlier but the scanner was not playing ball :-x . Hope these help.Will have to post seperatly as they keep overlaping?????? [img align=left][/img]
620 27/07/2009 19:24:26 Nosforatu Re: can somebody tell me float height Part two. [img align=left][/img]
621 27/07/2009 19:26:14 Nosforatu Re: can somebody tell me float height Here it is part three the last instalment. [img align=left][/img]
622 27/07/2009 17:20:44 djcrow22 FZ 750 Engine teardown with Pics Link to pictures:
623 28/07/2009 02:39:03 alex_dee oil switch I got a problem agin, for some reason when i JUST start to ride my fz750 after i let it warm up the oil light goes on and stayes consistenly on. Now i understand that the light goes on when theres no oil pressure BUT! it only goes on right at the begging of my trip, so i turn off the bike and turn it back on and its fine wont get the light twice! i think theres somthing wrong with the switch has anyone eles had a simular problem with a faulty switch cuz most times motors dont drop oil pressure completly unless they are leakin BADLY oil which im not at all! thanks alex dee
624 28/07/2009 07:36:10 daddyjay Re: oil switch The oil light is triggered by oil level not pressure on these engines Alex, strange that the light goes off on the second start though. Is your oil level ok before you start the first time?
625 29/07/2009 04:21:44 alex_dee Re: oil switch oil level is where it needs to be but what do u mean by level pressure i understand oil pressure but how is this different???? still i am quite sure that the light should flicker NOT be solid red on so i think the switch is bad
626 29/07/2009 19:15:36 FZ750Horse Re: oil switch Daddyjay is correct - the light is connected to an oil level sensor, not a pressure switch. Even if the level is above the min. mark the light will often come on if the bike is held away from upright for any length of time eg. in a long bend. It's generally best to keep the oil right to the top of the sight glass (I run top of the glass + 200ml on my race bike). Once the low level light has been triggered I think it stays on until reset by turning the ignition off and on again. These switches are generally ok so I'd try filling the oil at least right to the upper line (use a spirit level - if the bike is slightly out of upright you can get a reading that's badly out) and I bet the problem goes away. Cheers, Horse.
627 04/09/2009 22:18:49 wolseley Re: oil switch I sold my 16i last year Rob but I've got another mk3 Escort shell I hope to kit out ready for a return trip to the Nurburgring either next year or the year after. :-D [img][/img] Jay you might be surprised to learn I have heard that joke once or twice before mate. :-P
628 05/08/2009 17:42:41 JMPDFZ700 Spark Plug Cap/Boot I was wondering where I could get a replacement spark plug cap/boot for my FZ700. I was looking for an NGK one, but they don't seem to offer a long reach, post type cap at 10 kOhm in the States.
629 05/08/2009 21:37:55 Graham Re: Spark Plug Cap/Boot Hiya Joe, now I "know" you are from the states. :-D Have you tried ebay ?
630 06/08/2009 07:48:33 daddyjay Re: Spark Plug Cap/Boot If you do an Ebay search for "dp8ea-9" you will get a long list of sellers for your plugs, same with "NGK plug caps".
631 06/08/2009 14:48:37 JMPDFZ700 Re: Spark Plug Cap/Boot The problem isn't with finding any plug caps for sale, it's trying to find the proper NGK XD10F or SD10F plug cap without resorting to buying a full set.
632 06/08/2009 15:52:01 daddyjay Re: Spark Plug Cap/Boot [url=]plug caps[/url] Unless the other 3 are all brand new isn't it worth buying a complete set for $10-$15? Has to be worth that for piece of mind.
633 06/08/2009 16:32:29 JMPDFZ700 Re: Spark Plug Cap/Boot Thanks! The other three caps definitely work, but I'm probably going to replace the set somewhere down the road. For now, I just want to get my bike running again since the last owner let it sit for two/three years. [url=]SOHC4 forum on spark plug caps[/url] The link shows how hard it is to find these things.
634 06/08/2009 19:37:30 PeterL Re: Spark Plug Cap/Boot Hi, Theres a lot of good reading on the matter at
635 06/08/2009 19:38:04 PeterL Re: Spark Plug Cap/Boot Hi, Theres a lot of good reading on the matter at
636 06/08/2009 19:58:46 JMPDFZ700 Re: Spark Plug Cap/Boot Hi Peter, That's some good info. I went through some issues when I rebuilt my '76 CB750F and the new cap I got wasn't the right resistance. Ended up with a stumble that drove me nuts until I traced it back to the cap.
637 07/08/2009 13:16:38 FZ750Horse Re: Spark Plug Cap/Boot For what it's worth, these caps deteriorate quite badly with age. I've checked an serviced a lot of them over the years. If you put a multimeter on them I doubt you'll find any of them under 20k Ohms. 50k Ohms is usual (they will still work even when reading open circuit). The fault seems to be with the suppression resistors, which look like little ceramic pellets with a (silver?) conductive coating. The coating corrodes or flakes off and the resistance goes up. You can repair them but if you factor in your time, it's more cost effective just to give Yamaha び5 for a new one :-D .
638 07/08/2009 14:11:44 JMPDFZ700 Re: Spark Plug Cap/Boot My three original Yamaha plug caps are all sitting at ~9.5k Ohms, there's a replacement 5k Ohm NGK cap which is bad. Also, a complete set of new Yamaha caps will run close to $200 over here, hence why I've been looking for replacement NGK caps.
639 07/08/2009 18:21:41 FZ750Horse Re: Spark Plug Cap/Boot Fair enough, if you can't find one in the US let me know and I'll send you one in the post. I've got a few but they do all read much higher than 10k Ohms - must just be something to do with UK local authorities love of road salt :-?
640 05/08/2009 23:48:53 oops-sorry sorry to be a pest as some of you know, i sold my bike a few years ago, then i bought it back. when i sold it i gave away the service manual also. well, i got the bike back, but not the service manual long story short. can someone tell me what my valves should be adjusted at? im working on 87 fz700. thanks
641 09/08/2009 22:47:46 oops-sorry who makes carb rebuild kits? Graham, I don't know anything about stateside MB5's. Remember this is the United States and small, economical cycles are just now coming into vogue. This ridiculous cash for clunkers program just got extended and it turns out people here are buying more trucks than fuel efficient vehicles! I'm sorry but the behavior of both the my fellow Americans and every U.S. politician over the past ten years or so makes me sick to my stomach. From invading Iraq and destroying that country to the current economic meltdown engineered by Goldman Sachs and the rest of the greedy, destructive and selfish assholes that make up the American corporatocracy(is that a word?)I am ashamed on a daily basis as to what this country has become. Sorry for the rant but I am disgusted with this country and hold out very little hope for any meaningful turnaround. Uncle Larry can definitely paint. That pic of the gas tank is stunning! Everything about that build impresses and inspires me as well. As far as $$ goes, Glenn has invested some serious coin in his FZ. Hopefully he will post soon and we can all enjoy his handiwork. Take care, Kevin
642 10/08/2009 03:15:44 PeterL Re: who makes carb rebuild kits? does anybody sell these on line or is it dealer only?
643 10/08/2009 20:29:55 oops-sorry Re: who makes carb rebuild kits? FZ 600 [img][/img] Full fairing... FZ 400 [img][/img] Quarter fairing... Decals are probably identical.
644 11/08/2009 12:13:10 Nosforatu Re: who makes carb rebuild kits? Check out this from Graham easy pics. Hope to see your bike soon. :-D
645 12/08/2009 10:21:50 bnail Re: who makes carb rebuild kits? Graham, I was thinking the same exact thing about the streetfighters with the tail way up in the air which is not my style. What I will say is that you guys outside of the states sure get some really cool models they won't sell here. That is one nice looking motorcycle. Thanks for the pics. One treat I have been enjoying lately is the HD Theater Channel showing the 2009 Isle of Mann TT on Monday evenings. It's the first year in High Def and the camera work is incredible. The steadycam helicopter shots are breathtaking as the speeds these riders are reaching scares the crap out of me. The coverage really shows that the TT is the most demanding and dangerous motorcycle racing there is. McGuinness, Hutchinson and the rest are special men to embrace this race and risk their lives for our entertainment. Special congrats to Michael Dunlop for his first TT win. Great stuff... [img][/img] John McGuinness, Senior TT champion for the 15th? time... [img][/img] Ian Hutchinson, this young man can fly..
646 12/08/2009 13:43:51 JMPDFZ700 Re: who makes carb rebuild kits? Hi , When you saye you would like a fz 750 carb rebuild kit, You are going to struggle to find a kit that covers all the parts in one , someone like allans performance parts can supply needles, float valves, needle jets , main jets as seperate parts. What parts are worn ? Hope this helps Glenn
647 12/08/2009 19:48:12 oops-sorry Re: who makes carb rebuild kits? I just rebuilt my carbs, but never found carb kits for the FZ700. The jets and needles were fine, though, so I didn't need to replace them. I replaced the o-rings with some fuel resistant rubber ones from the hardware store, and I got the float bowl gasket for about $6 a piece from old bike barn if I remember correctly.
648 13/08/2009 17:54:23 bnail Re: who makes carb rebuild kits? Hey Guys, I know I haven't posted in a while but I still have lots of parts for a 1986 fz 750. I am looking to unload this thing and I want to make sure everybody on the forum has 1st crack at them since you guys were so helpful to me. please email me at and let me know what you need. I'm not trying to make a profit, just recover some of what I sank into her. Hit me up and I will hook you up. next stop is ebay or the junkyard (wife wants it gone). Ride safe and let me know if I can help you out.
649 13/08/2009 23:08:42 oops-sorry Re: who makes carb rebuild kits? Hi , I guess your from over the pond as you are working on a fz700,if you search on google for the parts you need, you must have carb dealer that can help! try mikuni carb parts in your search, fz700 may have slightly smaller mains but float valves sould be be the same,if you have no luck , try allens perforance in the uk they are very helpfull and will post your parts. i had a price of ぴ2+tax for my needle jets from the main dealer each ,from allans び0.50+tax each Glenn
650 21/08/2009 01:38:43 oops-sorry Re: who makes carb rebuild kits? Unfortunately, I think JMPDFZ700 is right - it sounds like you would have let some air in there. Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs, but you need to keep positive pressure in the system any time you have a bleed nipple or banjo union open - pump it up, crack the bleed point open and then close it again before the fluid stops flowing. You'll need to bleed it through again and tie the lever back overnight. The master cylinder banjo union is the highest point in the system so any small bubbles should rise to here (tapping/shaking the hoses will help). Crack the union until fluid starts to flow, let it run for about 1 second and nip it up again. Pump the system up again and repeat - that should be enough to get any residual air out. Ganepeil's point about wear in the lever mechanism is a good one - I've seen levers with a lot of play around the brass cylinder that holds the actuating rod.
651 21/08/2009 17:43:46 FZ750Horse Re: who makes carb rebuild kits? i finally found the part i was looking for. :-D they want $12 each for them, and suprisingly they fit many different bikes including dirt bikes. here is the link in case anybody else wants it. they also have the float bowl gasket.
652 21/08/2009 17:47:31 FZ750Horse Re: who makes carb rebuild kits? I don't know about the needles, but those gaskets are more expensive than the genuine Yamaha ones I bought from my local dealer a couple of years ago - a set of four was about び8. :-o
653 16/08/2009 04:37:18 alex_dee more tranny trouble Have a read of this wheaty & see if you can make it work. In the case of your 2 pictures I click this box [img][/img] which can be found when you type a reply above your text, then copy & paste the web address or the link from your post into the pop up box that appears when you click this box. [img][/img] Hope that makes sense ? If you can't sus it out but have pictures of your bike on your pc which you would like to post on here, you can send them to me attached to an email & I will post them for you.
654 16/08/2009 10:16:58 Graham Re: more tranny trouble why does 2ed gear slip into netural when accleraTING FAST? :-o
655 20/08/2009 02:19:04 ganepeil Re: more tranny trouble James, Some thoughts.. clutch from inside out. After insuring cl boss nut is tight and tab is secure, 1st 3 plates are, or were stock, a steel spring seat,a wavy spring plate,then 1st steel plate.which differ'd from rest of steel plates, I 'm not sure how, look for wear/stains for ID. Then, skinny friction plate and it's centering ring.then 1st of 7 like steel plates &7 like frictions. on the way out, double check for presence of the #8 ball bearing which resides between push rod and top hat bit which contacts presure plate. insure presure plate and cl. boss marks are aligned and boss & pres.plate mate. (if not pressure plate will interfere w/boss and stand proud) finish assy &verify grab and movement... there should be a total of 8 each misc steel & friction plates. (there exists the possibilty a PO has worn out clutch & played games to restore w/bits on hand) Next, remove clutch lever and inspect the bronze bush which pushes the cl master cyl push rod. it's hole depth should be roughly 1/2 it's dia. (I've seen them wear completly thru) This seemingly minor bit is often missed but is critical for proper travel. Sorry for the long post, hope there's something here that helps. As Fzhorse said, these clutches are usually pretty hardy, and wi=th the exception of sometimes breaking plates due to hard launching wear well. there is always the possibility that once things are sorted out your' frictions are worn out, there are short-cuts, IE spring plates and skinny frictions eliminated, but.. I'd start w/getting things sorted 1st. luck G
656 19/08/2009 12:58:17 jjbfz Clutch Problem Robbo, REALLY nice work. You guys on that side of the pond are building some creative and good looking machines. Lots more than meets the eye here so when you feel like it take some closer detail pics of the swingarm linkage, gauge and reservoir setup and whatever else you did on your build. Great job... Kevin
657 19/08/2009 13:44:21 JMPDFZ700 Re: Clutch Problem Hello, Can anyone advise me about my clutch? I ride (when it is working!) a 1985 FZ750, engine no. 1FM I encountered problems shifting gears a while ago and was left in a few hairy situations when I couldn't shift out of gears, nike stalled at lights in heavy traffic and was unable to start not being able to shift to neutral (not easily anyway!). Decided to replace the larger of the two springs on the clutch shaft. During this replacement had to remove friction plates, clutch basket etc. Everything looked fine so put it back on the bike in pretty much the same order. Now as soon as I engage any gear the bike stalls. Have bled the clutch, checked movement of clutch boss (the thing with 6 screws and springs in!) when clutch is pulled, all operating fine (I think) there is a good degree of movement. Have tried several configurations of friction plates as per Clymer manual, although the friction plates in the bike differ to those described. I have two friction plates with springs (as opposed to one in the manual), these are the only ones with any markings ("T4") on (the manual says there should be a normal friction plate with a mark that should be lined up with the double mark on the clutch basket - I don't have one of those). Sorry if that doesn't make sense. Bottom line is I can't get it to work. Any suggestions or directions to useful websites welcome, PLEASE :-( Cheers James
658 19/08/2009 21:45:31 FZ750Horse Re: Clutch Problem Very nice bike, just as well you don't live near me makes mine look PPOOOO!!!!. Would like more pics and tech detail :-D What length are the primary pipes is it 4-1 or 4-2-1 etc. Back in the day the LEDAR pipe was the one to have 4-2-1 more mid range as well as top end. But can't find one or any dimensions to recreate. How does yours go compared to standard? keep up the good work. 8-)
659 20/08/2009 01:51:01 ganepeil Re: Clutch Problem Clutches are generally good on these bikes - I have two with 40000+ miles on them and they've only needed new springs. The weak spot is the hydraulic activation - prone to blowing slave seals and a bugger to bleed properly. I'd recommend putting the mechanical side back to standard as per the manual, checking the slave for leaks and changing the fluid. After the normal bleed procedure, tie the lever back to the bar, leave it overnight and then crack open the banjo union on the master and bleed it there (usual cautions about spillages). Good luck.
660 20/08/2009 11:44:02 jjbfz Re: Clutch Problem Thoughts, Jumping out of gear under load in constant mesh trannys is usually caused by the dogs of mating gears(side by side)escaping each other.this can be caused by incomplete shifts,worn dogs & recievers,said gears worn/lose on shafts,bent shift forks,worn worm trails in shift drum. or a shaft which is not securely located. not to get ones hopes up, but the countershaft axles on our Fz's are located via the c/s sprocket nut. in essence it draws the shaft to the located l/h c/s bearing via a shoulder on shaft and locates not only the shaft but relitive positions of it's gears. ( a cheep place to look ) On the down side, It does't require high mileage to bend a shift fork, dropping the clutch a nano second before full engage can allow gear to back out of recievers bending fork.Luck G
661 20/08/2009 11:58:23 jjbfz Re: Clutch Problem The shifter was difficult to move, it needed a good wellying to shift gears. This appears to have been resolved and observed with clutch basket removed(although having not been able to ride and test properly I can't say for certain that gears are shifting freely). The bike suddenly lunges when I engage 1st or 2nd gear and stalls, like its engaged no matter what. When removing the plates again they do appear to be stuck together a little (i.e.several plates come out at once when removed). Do you think they just need a bit more lubrication with engine oil before installation? I have removed, disassembled and cleaned the slave cylinder so movement in it seems to be ok. I haven't observed any leaks, but will check closely tonight. It has been thoroughly bled with the master cylinder nut being undone over night to allow any air to escape there. Still no joy! :-(
662 20/08/2009 18:05:08 JMPDFZ700 Re: Clutch Problem Think I did that the wrong way around. I tied the lever overnight, but with the banjo union open (that is the bolt that connects the clutch fluid hose to the master cylinder isn't it?) When you say bleed it there, is it just a case of opening the bolt for a few seconds, closing, pumping the clutch, opening and repeat until pressure in the lever improves? Thanks
663 20/08/2009 18:54:27 FZ750Horse Re: Clutch Problem Take a look in the factory manual on page 3-53, there's a diagram of how everything is supposed to be installed. I don't have the Clymer manual, so I can't speak for what it said to do. If you don't have the factory manual, search for my name, and a post about the manual will show up. Make sure you check the lengths of all the different pieces like the springs (you replaced one already, so that should be good) and the pushrod in case of wear. From my experience, a couple stuck plates can cause problems, so try lubricating them a little. I got mine loose again in the CB750 by putting the bike on the center stand, giving it some gas, and kicking it into first... it loosened up, but make sure the bike can't possibly run off into anything. This worked temporarily, but eventually I took the clutch apart again, wiped it down, and started from scratch, since I wanted a more permanent solution. From your bleeding procedure, it sounded like you drained all the fluid out... so it's back to square one on that.
664 23/08/2009 16:17:35 FZ750Horse Re: Clutch Problem I don't know about the needles, but those gaskets are more expensive than the genuine Yamaha ones I bought from my local dealer a couple of years back :-o . A set of four was about び8
665 23/08/2009 22:50:13 JMPDFZ700 Re: Clutch Problem I just replaced the piston seals on my front brakes and the following occurred to me while I was bleeding the system; the advice I gave above, to tie the lever back overnight, was given to me years ago, I've always done it and it always seems to work, BUT... Surely with the lever tied back, the master cylinder is effectively closed off to hold pressure in the system, so any air that's trapped couldn't get past it to rise into the reservoir? Is the idea just one of those myths which have been repeated so often that I've convinced myself that it works? :-? Any thoughts?
666 29/09/2009 12:07:52 jjbfz Re: Clutch Problem I just got my first bike about a year ago and i have always been into cars and fixing them but now i have been getting into bikes. Recently i did a frame swap on my 85 fz 750 and i had never worked on a bike in my life but im pretty good with this stuff and i got through it. I put it all back together and ofcourse it wouldnt start. The only thing i was unsure about or think could be it, was on the wire harness there was a black plug up at the front of the bike that i didnt label where it went and when i put everything together i didnt use it i dont know if that could be it or something else i simply dont know about. i didnt touch the motor but i did clean the carbs out. also when i put the key in the lights turn on and it makes a clicking sound but it did that before. If anyone has any idea or could help me out that would be great thanks.
667 07/09/2009 15:45:26 FZ750Dude no spark? suspecting the cdi Hi thanks. yes I live in wyoming. how much do you want for it with not being able to gaurentee it even works?
668 07/09/2009 19:34:39 FZ750Horse Re: no spark? suspecting the cdi Ok thanks. much appreciated. You said yours doesnt run? If we do exchange are there any parts you need that I could throw in for some value if I have them? I have an 86 parts bike with alot of good parts. Just doesnt have the cdi, ofcourse. If your interested in that let me know. if not, money is fine.
669 08/09/2009 04:20:35 PeterL Re: no spark? suspecting the cdi I'd suggest getting a wiring diagram and a multimeter and check out all the circuitry associated with the ignition, particularly the kill switch - bad wiring or contacts here would cut the sparks but leave everything else working. The wiring on a lot of these bikes is starting to break down now and it can be hard to trace faults. I bought what is now my race bike for ぷ0 as a parts donor because the previous owner had given up trying to diagnose a very similar fault. It cost me nothing to fix, but I spent days tracking down an intermittent fault caused by degraded wiring. Thoroughly clean every block connector with switch cleaner and then start checking voltages... Good luck, Horse
670 08/09/2009 15:45:13 FZ750Dude Re: no spark? suspecting the cdi On removing my carb's today I noticed 2 things. 1, I have no choke cable & 2, I only have 1 throttle cable from the twist grip. If someone could confirm for me that there should indeed be another cable from the twist grip which closes the throttle & if anyone has a picture of their choke cable/knob assembly & where it goes I would be most grateful. I'm guessing there is some kind of fitting which bolts to the lug on the left hand side of my frame with several holes in it. :-? Can anyone recommend a good Yamaha dealer in the midlands area of England, I've got a feeling I will be calling on their services quite a bit in the next few months. :-(
671 09/09/2009 11:37:36 gabriel helllppp Yes Kev that's the spacer only I decided on 35.5mm OD as my FZR dust seal must be slightly worn ! :lol: :lol: I do consider myself lucky having the later model, it's saved me a ton of work with the rear end. :-D My 4 wheel project leaves a LOT to be desired at the moment again, I'm at the "gathering parts" stage. I sometimes think I should just get rid & cut my losses but I'm not a quitter so that's not really an option for me. I have a few crappy pictures taken using my phone & a few when I 1st bought it so here they are. Bought it like this with no interior, bonnet or tailgate & gutless 1.3 ltr engine fitted. [img][/img] [img][/img] I have bought a carbon/kevlar seat for it, alloy wheels, new shocks, a fibreglass tailgate (so light you can lift it with 1 finger !), 2nd hand bonnet + general bits & bobs I might need. My girlfriend is the boss at a steel supplier so I get all the metal I want at very reasonable rates ;-) & so far I've made the main hoop & a couple of braces for the roll cage. [img][/img] I'm a windscreen fitter by trade so I bought a few sheets of Lexon from one of my suppliers & cut out some of the windows for it in the kitchen. [img][/img] Obviously did this whilst she who must be obeyed was at work. :lol: This is my favourite bit to date, carb's from a Yamaha R6 on a home made inlet manifold. 8-) [img][/img] I have owned 4 of these mk3 Ford Escorts now so have an abundance of spares for them which is why I chose another one to butcher up into a track car. I have a 1.6 ltr engine which will get a rebuild before fitting but god only knows when all this is likely to happen as I'm all out working on the FZ this winter. :-? It might look rough especially the last picture but it's the cleanest, most solid 1982 shell I've ever owned with no welding required at all ! I spent 18 months restoring the blue one in the pictures & lost the will to live whilst welding the floor, inner & outer sills, inner wings, bulk-head etc. :cry: By the time I get round to working on the white car it will probably need just as much welding ! :lol: :lol: :lol:
672 09/09/2009 12:23:15 daddyjay Re: helllppp i have some problems...can anyone help me?i have a fz 750 1986 model and i need some new membrans for the carburetors and new gas stopers..those tiny things that stop the gas when the carb is full and the floting thing is up...who can help me?how can i get those and from where..? :-(
673 14/09/2009 07:33:33 wheaty8918 Re: helllppp Hi, I bought two black ones, but he had white ones advertised on Ebay at one time, happy with them they are thicker than the original but also stronger. But they come drilled with only two holes, so fit them, then mark the other holes from underneath (take off fairing)thats the only way you'll get it right! you can fit the right hand side with just the two screws but the left (choke and fuel reserve plate) side needs to be drilled. PeterL.
674 13/09/2009 20:51:21 evillone 87 fz700 splitting the cases i dont do a lot of in-town driving. but i was looking for a little more power. i have a fz700 and right now i think i turn 5000 at 70 mph. i suppose i could add a couple of teeth to the rear and see what happens. if all else fails i could always change it back. i remember on four wheelers i went down to a 10 on the front sprocket and it ate chains like crazy. i was told the smaller the front the harder it is on chains, but i wanted to see what would happen anyhow. so i will probably leave the front alone.
675 13/09/2009 23:43:19 PeterL Re: 87 fz700 splitting the cases Hi, I had 16x44 went to 17x46 havent tried top speed but has a good site and that gearing should give me a speed of 236.90kph which is only slightly different, BUT my chains last a lot longer, oops-sorry is right small front sprocket is bad on a chain because of the smaller turning circle, PeterL.
676 15/09/2009 03:35:39 ganepeil Re: 87 fz700 splitting the cases thanks for the information
677 18/09/2009 17:12:33 slydvl another carb question ok, check this out. I have a 1988 fz750. I fitted a whole rear assembly from a 01-05 FZ1 on my bike with only minor modifications done in my 2 car garage. I now ride on a 5.5" wide wheel with a 180/55/17 rear tire. If you didnt know better, you would think it was made that way from the factory.
678 19/09/2009 00:35:55 oops-sorry Re: another carb question Now you say that he did mention that they are in white but he can make 'em black if required.
679 19/09/2009 16:29:53 slydvl Re: another carb question i just went through the same thing doing my floats. here is a description and picture of how to do it. you will need to use a clear tube that you can see through to adjust your floats. you can easily drain the tubes into a cup as far as using something else besides gas, i wouldnt advise it. there is a good chance of gumming up your carbs
680 19/09/2009 17:40:24 Graham Re: another carb question thanks its such a long crappy process i really cant get into doing it fill, check level drain remove float bowl adjust reassemble fill, check level hopefully get it right F**K!!!!! not right! drain remove float bowl adjust etc etc etc am i just lazy, or does everybody agree?
681 19/09/2009 19:41:53 oops-sorry Re: another carb question I agree. Didn't have any of that faffing about when I set the TRX float heights. Carbs off (only 2) in the vice, bowls off, measure from top of biggest of 2 floats to carb body, bend float stop/tang to adjust, measure until right height & throw back together. Bloke I bought my bike off said he had paid to have carbs cleaned & set up but I doubt it very much now I've seen some of the corners he cut. :-( Time will tell I spose.
682 03/10/2009 17:26:20 trooper19 Clutch Cover thanks a lot for the help this is makeing everthing a lot easier ill get back to you im going to try and free the floaters
683 16/10/2009 03:48:35 85fz7505v 85 fz750 backfires after crank?? Alright so I've been getting my bike to crank, but the fuel petcock broke when i tried to crack it open (but I DID manage to crack it open a bit). I try to crank it with the choke wide open, and about 10 seconds of cranking, the bike backfires. I spent a week to source a new petcock. Fortunately, I found a gas tank with a new valve and bought it. So I replace the tank and petcock thinking I solved the problem... I crank and it backfires a loud POP again... Could the ignition be the problem? I did rebuild the carbs with a stage one dyno jet kit however...
684 16/10/2009 05:28:46 daddyjay Re: 85 fz750 backfires after crank?? Just a thought.... What condition is your battery in? Had the same problem with mine turning over and over but not firing only an occasional back fire. Put a set of jumper leads to a car battery and it started within 2 seconds and ran fine. Stopped it and tried with just the bike battery and got turn over but no start again. I think the start up procedure on these bikes is quite power hungry and a crap battery just won't do the job even when fully charged like mine was. Worth a go and will cost nothing to test.
685 16/10/2009 22:11:29 EagleHawk Re: 85 fz750 backfires after crank?? That sounds very similar to my bike. The battery store has told me on a couple different occasions that my battery load-tests out perfectly fine, but if I let my bike sit for several days, then go out and try to start it, it's a toss-up as to how well it will start if at all. I can jumper over to my truck's battery, and the bike fires right up every time. Even after riding for a while, I still have to crank the engine over a bit more than I think should be necessary for the bike to start. Anyone have any experience with the Odyssey dry-cell batteries? They sound like they might be enough to clear up any hard-starting issues due to the batteries just not quite having what it takes every time. A bit spendy in the $150 range, though. -Josh
686 18/10/2009 01:49:28 85fz7505v Re: 85 fz750 backfires after crank?? Well I'm not sure that it's the battery because I keep the battery on slow charge all the time (the battery charger has auto-off). Maybe I should crank the charger to 10 A and THEN try to start it?
687 18/10/2009 10:37:50 Graham Re: 85 fz750 backfires after crank?? I bought one of those battery optimisers for the fireblade but it still let me down last week & I had to bump start it. They're probably not as good as we would like them to be. :-( I would give it a good charge like you suggested. As long as the battery itself is ok you can eliminate it from the list of possible faults then ?
688 20/10/2009 00:03:17 ganepeil Re: 85 fz750 backfires after crank?? 85, Maybe worthless,But...Cheap offerings. 1st,Fz's ARE known to be critical about battery voltage/amperage for starting.for 2 reasons. A, They like brisk crankage to come to life, and B, Their' fuel pumps/incorperate a rather obtuse approch for fuel delivery. The fuel pump in itself has two circuits. 1 actually causes pump to run, and another regulates fuel pressure and swithes pump on & off. Both functions are controlled by breakers much like ign. points.... Next fuel pump power is supplied 1st by an ititial voltage from ECU (a 20 sec)upon key cycle..then from fuel pump relay which in turn recieves power from t/s relay and remotely from reserve sw. Iffy contacts within fuel pump are common. requiring lots of current to work properly, (especially if they're on the way out.) for dio, you can eliminate pump via a gravity feed remote tank. If this doesn't help, pull a plug wire and ground. Look for spark whilst cranking.1 spark at intial prod of button, and 1 spark upn release w/nothing in between is indicitive of failed ecm. or possible cl/sidestand sw. hope there's something here which helps.G
689 22/10/2009 01:54:17 85fz7505v UPDATE with PIC!! ganepeil> Yeah I understood the first part but you lost me on the second part. Appreciate the input though. ........................... Anyway, for the last two days I found out that there was gas coming out of the one side of the carbs (through a tube that leads to the ground)... like whenever I crank... I checked the other side (the other tube), and there was NO GAS coming out of the tube... It SEEMS as if only 2 cylinders are getting fuel... Which explains the backfire. I looked through the manual and I can't figure this out... How can the fuel pump only deliver to one side?! Now in case you have no clue what I just described, and maybe for mild entertainment(?) I have some pics for you guys. [img][/img]
690 22/10/2009 22:01:54 slydvl Re: UPDATE with PIC!! try to drain the bowls and see if there is gas in the two carbs where you have no fuel coming out of those tubes. as for the 2 carbs that HAVE fuel coming out of the tubes, thats NOT supposed to happen possibly the floats are not adjusted properly or the needles are leaking
691 28/10/2009 00:44:16 85fz7505v Re: UPDATE with PIC!! Yeah i just checked it out just now, I managed to drain 3 bowls, and the 4th one didn't drain unless I unscrewed the plug all the way out.
692 28/10/2009 09:10:28 Graham Re: UPDATE with PIC!! I would be tempted to take carb's off & strip them again. Can you just confirm, you have fuel leaking from both the overflow AND the feed on the right hand side of your picture but not the left yes ? I'm guessing it's only when you are cranking ? Have you tried cranking with both feeds to the carbs removed to see if there is fuel getting to all 4 carb's ? Sorry to ask but if you've had the plug leads off are they definitely back on in the right order ? From your symptoms it sounds like 1 or more pots are getting too much fuel & flooding or it's firing out of time.
693 29/10/2009 02:08:23 85fz7505v Re: UPDATE with PIC!! I'm not sure what a "feed" is, I'm assuming when you say "overflow" you're referring to the stuff in the black circles. Yes, the overflow on the right is leaking. As I found out the other day, it only leaks when the fuel pump runs (when you hit the engine cut-off). As for the feed, I think I only have one, and that's the tube connected right in the middle. Unless there's something I'm missing...?
694 18/10/2009 16:12:44 rclifford Does a pre exup FZR1000 engine fit a FZ750? Anyone fitted an FZR1000 engine to teh FZ750, whats involved?
695 18/10/2009 18:21:09 bnail Re: Does a pre exup FZR1000 engine fit a FZ750? Yes my friend it fit's no problem , i have one fitted in my fz . You need fzr1000 motor,carbs,coils,tci(igniter)box. air box mix of 750 and 1000 if you want to keep it.I have done the conversion .You can pm if you come accross any problems + fz7501fn loom igniter wire have to be transposed orange to Grey i don't no about later models Hope this helps glennyam
696 19/10/2009 23:02:04 ganepeil Re: Does a pre exup FZR1000 engine fit a FZ750? Agree w/Glen, Engines swap easily, Tho I also had to mix &match coolant lines & use a 1000's exhaust. g
697 04/12/2009 21:52:22 Graham Re: Does a pre exup FZR1000 engine fit a FZ750? More of the same I'm affraid. [img][/img] I only just found these pictures on a website & had to pay 10 Euro's each for them but they are very nice I think. 8-) [img][/img] There were 8 pictures of me on the bike so it took a while to decide on my favourite 3. Couldn't bring myself to part with 80 Euros this side of Christams. :-( [img][/img]
698 19/10/2009 08:01:33 blunderbum 87 FZR1000 carbs onto 85 FZ750 G,day Guys Im after some help again.Has any one ever done this carb swap.The standard carbs on my bike (FZ750) are 34mm the FZR1000 carbs are 38mm they line up fine.Is there any performance increase do I need any other parts ,besides the carbs maybe smaller main jets.Ive already got those the carbs.My standard 34mm carbs needs a couple of diaphrams and slides expensive items new ,so I thout of the bigger carbs. anyway as always any help would be great Cheers from Australia Mark
699 20/10/2009 18:19:16 Graham Re: 87 FZR1000 carbs onto 85 FZ750 This might help ? [url=][/url]
700 24/10/2009 13:02:55 Graham service' manual ? (valve shim related) I have found on line manuals for the FZ on here but they seem to be owners manuals which contain very basic information. I would like to know if there is something available for me to down load which will guide me through the process of checking/adjusting/fitting valve shims ? It would seem that the shims can not be ground as they are domed. Is this correct ? I have a complete engine minus shims & a complete engine with shims & a damaged head so am hoping to use shims from damaged head engine in the other. I can't see me being lucky enough that they will all be usable so my next question is, where do I buy the shims I might need ? Would be nice not to need any but I'm just doing some ground work before I get stuck in. There is a manual on ebay which is cheap enough but my budget for this FZ is getting out of control to the point where I am beginning to question my sanity so every tenner saved will help. :-D
701 24/10/2009 17:06:14 dave1000 Re: 'service' manual ? (valve shim related) Hi Graham I think the first thing to do is buy a Clymer FZ 750 manual. I do have some shims which I would sell for a sensible price, also a lot of other bits so if you need anything ask. I am rebuilding one engine as the output bearing on the gearbox. All parts I have have been used by me but I am swopping for newer parts which I hope will work as I know my do. All the best Dave
702 24/10/2009 17:28:27 Graham Re: 'service' manual ? (valve shim related) Cheers Dave, i will keep you in mind regards the shims when I get round to doing it. Bidding on a manual so will see if I win it tomorrow.
703 26/10/2009 14:53:23 djcrow22 Re: 'service' manual ? (valve shim related) Graham, Let me know if you get stuck on shim sizes. I've got 20 laying around from the engine teardown. I could mail them to you... Kevin [img][/img]
704 26/10/2009 17:05:46 Graham Re: 'service' manual ? (valve shim related) :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: You're killing me with these pictures ! Thanks for the offer Kevin, I will keep you in mind if I get stuck.
705 07/11/2009 00:10:26 RIFLEMAN Re: 'service' manual ? (valve shim related) Its not that the shims are actually 'domed',but they are hardened. Trying to grind them would be difficult and ruin the hardened surface. Plus getting the surfaces parallel would be difficult at best. eBay is an excellent source for shims. Also a company called Hot Cams(I think) makes shim kits. Some shops will trade shims,so check your local Yamaha dealer. The only other choice is to buy new ones from the dealer. Last time I checked,they were running in the $7.50USD apiece. Checking the valve clearance is fairly simple,but you need very narrow feeler gauges in order to fit in the tight spots in the valve train. I recommend against narrowing s standard gauge as you may end up with a burr that would make and accurate measurement impossible. If you haven't used feeler gauges before,it is all a matter of 'feel'. The gauge should have a slight 'drag' going between the two parts being measured. If it slides in with almost no resistance,the clearance is too big,if you have to force it in,the clearance is too tight. The way I adjust my valves is to rotate the crank until a camshaft lobe is is such a position that the curved 'heel' part of the lobe is bearing on the lifter bucket and the pointer 'peak' is straight up,then check the clearance. Once the clearance is determined,I write it down. I then proceed to check the remaining clearances and record them. These measurements are then checked against a shim chart. This chart can be found in the factory service manual;lit-11616-fz-75 or in a Clymer or Haynes manual. You compare the clearance the valve is at against the shim that is present and them where the 2 columns meet,that is the shim you need to install to achieve the correct clearance. Then I pull the cams,change the shims that need to be changed,then reinstall the cams,torque all the fasteners to spec and then remeasure the whole lot. Don't be surprised if you have to go through the process several times to get it right. Also,you want to apply a little moly lube(like Isky RevLube)to the cam lobes and bearings to protect everything during start up. Another tip is to pull the sparkplugs. it makes it easier to turn the motor over. Do stick a bit of rag in the plug tunnel because Murphy's Law applies and an open hole is a vacuum for a dropped bolt or shim! Life with an FZ is a parade of tenners my friend! Get used to it.
706 07/11/2009 10:59:00 Graham Re: 'service' manual ? (valve shim related) Thanks for the info Rifleman I appreciate it. I now own a Clymer manual & I'm no stranger to a set of feeler gauges so all I need to do now is build up the motivation to get stuck in. Been sorting a few problems on the Fireblade this week so no progress with the FZ.. . & my bank account needs time to recover from all the spares I've been buying lately ! :-o :lol:
707 08/11/2009 03:54:21 RIFLEMAN Re: 'service' manual ? (valve shim related) I always like to ask if someone knows what they are doing before I wind them up and send them off. A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing,especially when there is a 5 valve intake system involved! I understand the bank account. I've 5 bikes in the garage and only one on the street and on on the drylake. The FZ has been down now for 5-6 years due to lack of funds and cubic $$$$$$$. I've come to the conclusion a mistress would have been a cheaper hobby :-o
708 06/01/2010 20:31:20 Graham Re: 'service' manual ? (valve shim related) Depressing innit? :-D I can still remember being outraged when my GS1000 was overtaken by one of the new-fangled FZs and I couldn't catch the bugger...
709 07/01/2010 23:57:03 Graham Re: 'service' manual ? (valve shim related) I have an 87 & an 88 frame but I'm fairly certain they are all the same unless someone knows otherwise ? You tell me what you want measurements of & I will measure for you. :-D It will be tomorrow though as I'm off to bed now. :-P Nice user name by the way. :lol:
710 08/01/2010 22:58:53 Graham Re: 'service' manual ? (valve shim related) [img][/img] me and my fz.....
711 10/01/2010 21:09:18 Graham Re: 'service' manual ? (valve shim related) Nuts ! I've got a lovely 1FN tank with removable cap ready to go on my 87 bike but sounds like it isn't going to fit now. :-( Looks like I will have to make it fit. :hammer:
712 27/10/2009 17:47:14 Graham Head Gasket Can anyone tell me which one of these is the right part number for the FZ head gasket please ? 3FV-11181-00 or 1AA-11181-00 I'm finding both listed for the FZ750 but they can't both be right surely ? The 3FV one is listed for the FZR750 which I would suspect has the same lump as the FZ ? 1AA one is listed for an XJ750 also which I'm guessing is an air cooled engine so I'm a bit suspicious of it. :-? Having said that I find a 1AA gasket listed as being for the FZX750 which I thought had an FZ lump fitted so I'm a bit confused right now. Also, am I likely to need a new cam cover gasket or are they reusable providing it comes off or stays behind in 1 piece ? Thanks in advance y'all ! :lol: :lol: :lol:
713 27/10/2009 19:24:56 FZ750Horse Re: Head Gasket Sorry to add further confusion but my parts books give the number 2GH-11182-00-00 for 85,86 and 88 models. Usually if the main number is the same but the prefixes are different it means that the same part was common to two models. The fact that my books have a 2GH prefix suggests that the original gaskets were superceded (2GH is an FZR1000 prefix)- you might need to take the numbers to a parts department and see what Yamaha's portal makes of them. Cam cover gasket is supposed to be re-usable but might be getting a bit crispy by now.
714 27/10/2009 21:09:20 Graham Re: Head Gasket Well I'm guessing that the 1st 3 numbers/letters are the important ones as I've found loads of Yamaha head gaskets with the 11181 bit right up to 2000 R1's & such like. Nothing with 11182 though ? :-?
715 28/10/2009 08:58:47 PeterL Re: Head Gasket Hi, I agree with FZ750Horse the part number in my book for those years is 2GH-11182-00-00, PeterL.
716 28/10/2009 09:27:40 Graham Re: Head Gasket OK thanks both. Now I'm even more confused ! :lol: :lol: :-? Would someone have a look at these 2 gaskets listed on ebay & tell me what they think please or can anyone confirm if the FZR750 Genesis engine is an FZ one or not ? :-? Hope the links work.
717 28/10/2009 09:58:22 daddyjay Re: Head Gasket The 3FV prefix is for the FZR750R OWO1 race homologation bike. The standard FZR750 lump is the same as the FZ750 but the OWO1 is different I think.
718 28/10/2009 11:10:51 PeterL Re: Head Gasket Hi, The Ebay listings/parts you mention are for 1989/1990 models only, PeterL.
719 28/10/2009 15:26:19 Graham Re: Head Gasket Of course.. . I forgot about the OW01. that's an EXUP engine I'm fairly sure so I don't expect it to be the same. Wish i was shopping for an OW01 gasket, that would mean I owned an OW01 ! 8-) 89-90 sound about right for an OW01 too.
720 28/10/2009 15:42:17 daddyjay Re: Head Gasket [quote]Wish i was shopping for an OW01 gasket, that would mean I owned an OW01 ![/quote] Yeah, that wouldn't be a particularly horrible situation to be in would it. :-D Local bike shop to me has one on a shelf in the showroom in absolutely mint condition. It's looks are a little dated now but still in a different class to any other 20 year old bike.
721 28/10/2009 17:09:52 Graham Re: Head Gasket [code]Local bike shop to me has one on a shelf in the showroom in absolutely mint condition.[/code] Jay I thought you meany head gasket then ! :lol: :lol: :lol:
722 30/10/2009 09:46:35 Graham Re: Head Gasket Sorry to go on about this but I've found a gasket available which is described by the seller as... . "Yamaha genuine unused old stock part number 1AA-11181-00 superceeded to part number 2KT-11181-00 cylinder head gasket for FZ750 85-88, FZR750 87-88, FZX750 fazer 86-87." 2KT ??? :-?
723 31/10/2009 22:41:06 PeterL Re: Head Gasket Hi, I dont know if this helps, but if you go to it has a graph on Yamaha model codes the following "FZ750U 1988 model 2KT" has the prefix your asking about, dont know what the relevance is to a head gaslet but I'll leave it with you, bye, PeterL.
724 17/11/2009 21:55:40 Graham Re: Head Gasket Them ? I only received 1 picture Martyn. [img][/img] If you want to send more I will post them also.
725 18/11/2009 14:23:46 wheaty8918 Re: Head Gasket OK I'm aware that it's not as straight forward fitting an exup 1000 lump in an FZ frame as it is fitting a Genesis one but can anyone tell me if it's possible without too much fuss please ? A link perhaps ? I have found someone selling a Thunderace engine complete with carbs, air box, radiator, exhaust, clocks, loom, ecu, regulator & coils. It's not cheap but I've got a feeling I will end up wanting for more power if I get the 750 lump sorted so I'm keeping my options open. I have time, I can weld (badly), I have access to steel if things need fabricating so just need to know if most or any of the engine mounting points line up really. If anyone who has done this swap could give me some pointers regards what to look out for I would be very grateful. :-?
726 18/11/2009 16:54:26 Graham Re: Head Gasket hi all thought i best say hello . i have had a bike since i was 16 now 38 and run a 1999 vmax in the summer and also a suzuki trike . i have just bought a fz750 as a winter hack and could do with some help with the old gal.the main problem is this the bike has gr8 top end and not bad bottom end.but it has a majour blank spot in the middle.if i keep it revving it runs fine but if i keep it at 50mph in top and go to over take i have to go down two gears befor it will pull. when it pulls its just like its had a shot of nos the bike has a 1985/86 engine + carbs in a 1989 frame,standard air box /exhaust .new plugs + caps new main jets and air screws.on the dyno its getting up to 88bhp.with the fuleing being very slightly week .with diffrent carbs it is still the same the dyno people think the cdi might be wrong is their any way i can tell or any other things that may be causeing the proplem thanks
727 20/11/2009 20:23:43 RIFLEMAN Re: Head Gasket Hi, Recently got an 85 1N. It was an x racer I have since discovered. Jets were 125, 4-1 exhaust with baffled middle pipe and lazer can. Original air box with overlarge air filter (only just fitted in). Went like stink but only on full throttle. Not good a slow speeds. I have put it back to normal, 105 jets, second hand 4-2, original filter. Pulls lovely about town now, accels well but if cruising at 60 will not speed up. Had full service, carbs cleaned/ balanced. Noticed air box to carb pipes had come of - is this enough to cause this- also on of the slide rubbers had a pin prick in it. I have got new air pipes and a set of carbs of ebay. Any other ideas Cheers
728 28/10/2009 11:22:54 Henway No HP Howdy, I just got myself an '86 US model. I'm having "fun" trying to correct all the problems on it. Hopefully the threads on the output shaft are OK, but the nut holding the front sprocket was stripped and had come off. And the previous owner either never knew or didn't care.... Anyway, I have the manual for it and will be going through it systemically. But I wanted to throw this out to see what type of answers I get. The bike SOUNDS fine. Revving it sounds normal. But it just gets a little louder after about 5K rpm without getting any faster. Seat of the pants tells me maybe I've got 25hp right now. Aftermarket full-exhaust and the PO told me it had been jetted for the pipe (right.....) The tachometer wavers up and down about 1000 rpm after 5000 rpm intermittently. Not sure if this is a cause or an effect of a problem. My leakdown tester doesn't fit these spark plugs so I'll have to borrow/buy an adapter, so I don't have any compression figures. The fuel gauge doesn't work, so I'll have to trace whether it's the sender or wherever. And the taillights don't brighten with the brake lever (they seem like they are on bright all the time---more fun with diagnosis). I'm checking out the carbs and the pistons are dull grey. Is that how they're supposed to look? Also, is there any spring attached to the choke assembly on the carb to return it to non-choked? That doesn't work, either. The PO was a "mechanic" but I am more than a bit dubious of his skill. I hope I haven't bought into a turkey.... Because I've always wanted one of these bikes. Used to have a 1983 Eddie Lawson Replica, so I get I'm an Eddie Lawson stalker of some sort :)
729 28/10/2009 23:35:47 Henway Does choke have a spring on the carb side to return to no-choke? I asked too many questions on another post. Is it merely the force of the choke cable that moves (and returns) the choke? Should the choke (well, enrichener is probably more accurate) slide easily when off the bike? or does it have detents (on the carb side)? Thanks in advance--hope I can answer questions from you all after I've had the experience doing it myself!
730 29/10/2009 01:39:40 PeterL Re: Does choke have a spring on the carb side to return to no-choke? Hi, Checked my choke, no return spring, (FM Jap model) you have to pull and push back manually when it warms up, I hope thats what your asking, PeterL.
731 29/10/2009 02:19:44 Henway Re: Does choke have a spring on the carb side to return to no-choke? Thanks! Do you know if it slides easily (when removed from bike)?
732 29/10/2009 02:50:12 PeterL Re: Does choke have a spring on the carb side to return to no-choke? Hi, Mine takes a firm pull/on and push/off to use, in the time I've had the bike I have never oiled/etc the cable because I dont use the choke, maybe I'm lucky??, both of the 750's start without the choke, then again I have a Goldwing which wont start without full choke, give it a good oil etc and it should be good, PeterL.
733 29/10/2009 19:25:24 Henway Anyone have a spare main nozzle? 1AE-14141-90-00 So I was taking apart the carburetors looking for something amiss. I always remove all the brass bits and blow them out with carb cleaner and generally 90psi of air. So I get to the main nozzle, which in every other bike I have had would come out easily. No. Not on this bike. There is a tiny brass pin driven into the side of it, so when you try to unscrew it "PRANG" and the nozzle breaks. Dealer price is moderately rageous. Anyone with a spare in the US who only wants a few $$ for a USUALLY non-wear item? Anyone?
734 31/10/2009 23:18:56 Henway Anyone have a good engine in Southern California? My compression tests are not encouraging. 30psi in #1, 90psi wet. The rest are 90psi dry, 135psi wet. I think it may be cheaper to find a spare engine....
735 01/11/2009 17:49:24 Henway Alternative temp units? Haven't ridden mine more than a few miles yet, but got into many of the issues plaguing the bike. The seller didn't want the bike to idle after I test-rode it and I should have taken that as a red flag. But the temp gauge never went up. Full system, no leaks. Just pulled the thermo switch and stuck it into boiling water and got no resistance (no connection) between the two terminals, nor by the manual which says to wrap the bottom with wire and test the terminal for continuity. So are there any cheaper versions of this switch out there? Back to OEM? Does the smaller sensor next to it control the temp on the instrument panel? Perhaps both of mine are broken...
736 01/11/2009 22:30:43 PeterL Re: Alternative temp units? Hi, The smaller of the two is the Thermo switch (Rad fan) the larger is the Thermo unit that is the temp on the instrument panel, both easy to test, while your at it check the thermostat. PeterL.
737 02/11/2009 16:43:19 Henway Re: Alternative temp units? I think you have them reversed. The larger one has two electrical contacts that supply the fan when there is continuity. The smaller one varies resistance and the temp gauge on the panel reads it. And magically, BOTH of mine are dead. Heck, the thermostatic mechanism itself may be broken for all I know, so I'm looking for the entire thermostat/fan switch/temp sender unit. Grrrrrrrr.
738 16/11/2009 13:10:35 rclifford Engone rebuild advice, should I do it? Thats the joy of owning an old bike that no one makes parts for or that there are very few parts available for. Then there are the niggling little problems all "FrankenBikes" present. I have finally reached the age where I just want a turnkey bike,no major mods(hey,bike's at least gotta have great brakes,braided lines and dialed suspension!),just gas it and go and not needing the pages from manuals from 3 different models to do maintenance. :-o PARADICE!
739 16/11/2009 22:52:58 EagleHawk Re: Engone rebuild advice, should I do it? Hi I want to fit an FZR1000 engine to my 85 model. I don稚 have much info on the donor engine other than it being a runner. So I would like to strip it, check it over, replace cam chain, sprocket bearing, valve stem seal and probably drop new rings in to freshen it up. I also want to paint the cases to the 85 FZ colours. I知 a pretty competent mechanic and stripped may 2 stroke motors but only the odd 4 stroke. Is it something a decent mechanic can undertake?, any tricky parts of the job? Also is there anything I should look for or replace whilst it痴 stripped? Cheers Ross
740 17/11/2009 00:03:55 Henway Re: Engone rebuild advice, should I do it? Ross, For what it's worth, the 750 was the first engine I did a top-to-bottom rebuild on. I've had the top end off of several smaller singles, and had split the cases once before on a two-stroke. (Along with a good amount of miscellaneous auto work over the past several years.) I just spent a bit of time reading up on the procedures in the manual ahead of time to avoid any unwanted surprises, and asked a my questions on the forum as I had them. There's not likely anything you'd run into that someone else here hasn't already seen and fixed on their bike as well. :-) Good luck! -Josh
741 17/11/2009 00:12:23 ganepeil Re: Engone rebuild advice, should I do it? Why not just stick the new engine in first and see how it runs? I believe other people have commented that it fits as-is with a few modifications (obviously the exhaust diameter as well as some of the fluid routing).
742 17/11/2009 13:01:52 bnail Re: Engone rebuild advice, should I do it? Ross. I'm with Josh, But would add, The pre-exup 1000 (87 88) is the easiest swap, Some coolant line re-routing, and a dual pick-up module(swapping the pick-up wires at module)renders nearly twice the original HP. Be aware, this potential will quicky point out the marginal brakes of the fz. Hindsight is often 20/20, In my case, I've realized that Big 17" wheels & brakes and 6 speed trans were overkill. in retrospect, a nice 17' front w/@ 320mm rotors and the stock 5 spd would have provided a more nimble/less rider intensive platform. Dont' get me wrong, w/@ 4 years & 30 k miles on the 7-10, I've no complaints, but I do miss the crisp light feel of the stocker..Luck G
743 20/11/2009 20:32:47 RIFLEMAN Re: Engone rebuild advice, should I do it? Graham, My FZ mill was built to 1040cc using the original cases and all the necessary first gen FZR1000 bits. The top case needs to opened up to take the barrels and basic engine building knowledge is all thats needed to put the whole thing together. As far as the head being 'restrictive',opening up the Yamaha 5 valve head can do more harm than good. The keyword with these motors is 'velocity'. Porting tends to add volume and REDUCE velocity. Tony Tice literally welds the ports in his heads closed and then re-open them. The finished product looks like 3 cats eyes when you look down the intake. He has built a natually aspirated 1185cc mill that put 185hp to the tire. Trouble was the big ends couldn't last with the stroke. He has built 1040's like mine and with 40mm FCR's they make in the range of 165hp. My bike runs a 'cleaned' up stock FZR1000 head and cams,ARIAS 1040cc pistons,FZR1000 rods,crank and clutch assembly. I use the stock FZ750 mixers still attached to the stock airbox and jetted to work with the bore and a rare Muzzy's stainless pipe. Its all fired by a FZR1000 CDI with a 2 wire swap. Bike (did) start and run cleanly and delivered an average of 36-40mpg with a best of 52mpg highway with the missus on the pillion! Best part is the original cases are still in the bike,so both the law and the insurance think its still a 750. Also still have the 6 speed gearbox as opposed to the 5 speed in the FZR. All the tranny needed was the battery acid mod to first gear. With 36mm 1000 carbs,pods and a SuperTrapp 4-2-1 pipe(THE pipe to get if you can find one)the bike dyno'ed at 125hp. Figure with the stock 34mm mixers,airbox and the Muzzy,prob 10 less. Bike was really strong with a set of 38mm FCR's,but they were lean and thats why the bike is parked with burnt valves :-? !
744 17/11/2009 22:19:17 Graham Thunderace/exup engine ??? Thanks for all your help folks but unfortunately I have another question. :roll: I have read many posts regarding the fitment of FZR1000 genesis engines & also people asking if they can fit just the barrels/pistons etc. Someone replied to a barrel/piston queery stating that the FZR1000 head should be used in conjunction (big word for today) with the 1000 barrels for best results which would suggest to me that the FZ head fits but needs work in order for gases to flow freely. Without knowing I'm guessing that the ports on the FZR head are bigger on both sides & possibly the valves too. All this & I still haven't asked my question which is.. . . If the FZ head fits on the FZR barrels then surely I can just buy an FZR1000 genesis head gasket yes ? I have found a complete FZR top end gaskets set at the right price but still having trouble sourcing an FZ one. FZ750 top set is around 100 pounds which is more than I would like to spend for the sake of using just the head gasket out of it. I am very tempted to carry on with the rest of the bike & wait for a genesis 1000 engine to turn up but then there's the extra expense of exhaust, carbs, cdi + what ever else is needed. Or I quite fancy fitting 1000 pistons, barrels, carbs & head to my FZ bottom end but then do I buy an FZ750 gasket set or FZR1000 ?????? :evil: :-? :cry:
745 18/11/2009 21:28:08 wheaty8918 Re: Thunderace/exup engine ??? Yes it does mate thank you. From what you've just said it would seem the 1000 genesis head has the same sized outlets as the FZ750 then if your FZ exhaust mated up with no problems ? The rest sounds like too much trouble for me so I will either rebuild my 750 lump (for now) or I've got my eye on an exup lump. Once someone tells me it's possible to fit the exup unit without too much trouble I am seriously considering this option but it all boils down to money right now. :-(
746 18/11/2009 21:42:59 Graham Re: Thunderace/exup engine ??? I have managed to find a bit of info about an FZ fitted with an EXUP motor. It seems as though the motor fits in with no real problems but the guy who fitted it swapped the sump for a 1000 Genesis for some reason, he also mentioned that he had to re-plumb the cooling system but I don't know why. The article also mentions that the Exup valve wasn't fitted because it fouled the bottom frame rails and so made the power delivery lumpy (apparently the Exup cams are 'lumpy' for top end power and the Exup valve is used to bolster the midrange). The guy who can probably give you a bit more info on this is Pete Beale who has been tuning four stroke Yamahas for years and who seems to have put the idea into this guys head, I managed to buy a Tony Scott tuned FZ engine off Pete a long time ago and he has a lot of past FZ knowledge that I know of. If I remember rightly Pete is around the Northamptonshire/Bedfordshire area. I had an wonder about a UK membership gathering sometime, anyone got any ideas?
747 07/12/2009 19:26:47 Graham Valve stem seals Got it working .the proplem was the was the right 1 just must have been faulty at 5000 rpm
748 07/12/2009 23:47:27 ganepeil Re: Valve stem seals Hey all, After chasing around an odd idling problem for a while on my bike, I believe I've traced it (at least in part) to faulty spark plug wires. I had the bike idling in a dark garage after a ride, and sure enough, the plug wires were cross-firing against each other at about the same awkward pace as my idle was stumbling along. To get to my question- Has anyone successfully replaced their spark plug wires out of their ignition coil before, and if so, how did you go about it? I've heard it can be done, but that it's not the easiest task in the world. Just trying to get an idea of what I might be jumping into. The coils themselves are fine, so I'd just as soon not pay to fix what isn't broken if there's a way around it. Thanks, -Josh
749 07/12/2009 23:44:40 EagleHawk Replacing spark plug wires G, Thanks, I roadraced "Frank" for 3 seasons at "clubhouse" level as a 750, and had constant brake & ground clearance probs. My solution was '91 fzr600 front end w/2" over Franks Maint. tubes, & had Fox build me a 2" over "twin clicker"... (has adjustsable ride height) swingarm & linkage is stock. '91 gsxr 1100 rear wheel is tight w/180 70 17 using gsxr drive & brakes. but asside from spacers, no machining required..The Bridgestones are superb, tho I have to admit I seldom push them hard, and use them more because I like the tread disign than performance.. I raced Metzler Mez's (they had a great contengincy ATT) in the day, and still swear by 'em. the advent of 1000 eng. makes brakes even more crucial, tho Gone is the light tip-in of the base 700. Few recognise the bike on the street, and often misstake it for a fzr400 or fzr600 because of colors... I guess that makes it a "sleeper" and often surprises more current bike riders. G
750 07/12/2009 23:57:04 ganepeil Re: Replacing spark plug wires Graham, Consider contacting Individuals/shops specializing in "Head flowing" and specify Vitron seals..On this side of the pond, Schnitz Racing, APE, &Joe Hooper (out of Pitstop perf. in Orlando) are possiblities. Luck g
751 08/12/2009 14:03:28 FZ750Horse Re: Replacing spark plug wires [quote] Graham wrote: Not intersted Gaz but it would help if you mentioned where you are from as this forum has such a wide spread group of members. :-) Got any pictures of what you're selling/swapping ?[/quote] Graham, Here are some pictues and I've now changed my details for all to see! :-D
752 21/01/2010 20:11:45 EagleHawk Re: Replacing spark plug wires Hi there I am putiin in on EBay tonight for 10 days. I will check on postage.
753 29/12/2009 00:25:02 Cliff Engine backfires Anybody know if an early 98 R1 header system can with some work fit an FZR1000 Genesis engine and more importantly work or not?,
754 30/12/2009 01:45:05 ganepeil Re: Engine backfires I've fitted 2000 R1 Blue dots . STOPS in no time . START with bit of stiff card cut to fit caliper then tape match sticks to outer rim on disc . slide caliper to rest on matches then mark fork mount holes . you now have template to transfer to 8mm alloy plate . then measure spacers to fit. sorry cant help with sizes I have an FZR 400 front wheel in my bike
755 06/01/2010 09:28:17 Cliff Re: Engine backfires The protective chain slider on my 85 FZ750 has fallen to bits. My local Yamaha dealer (in Australia) says the slider is no longer listed as a spare part, and isn't even available ex Japan. Does anyone have a source of supply for the sliders, or one they are prepared to sell me a good secondhand one? Any help would be appreciated ! Cliff
756 05/01/2010 16:21:01 velimir wich oil for fz 750 If you ask the bloke who makes them when you place your order he will do them black or white. Just means putting a bit of black dye in the resin to save them being painted.
757 05/01/2010 16:31:37 dave1000 Re: wich oil for fz 750 i need a advice...... im new driver of come from wich oil you use in your bike......10w40 or one manual service i read 20w40 or 50.......can some one help......
758 05/01/2010 17:33:14 Graham Re: wich oil for fz 750 I use Semi Synthetic motorcycle oil, either Motul, Castrol, Putoline or any good oil for motorcycles. I hope that helps.
759 05/01/2010 19:04:34 FZ750Horse Re: wich oil for fz 750 Clymer manual states 10W/30 SE/SF for temperatures 40 deg F & below, 20W/40 SE/SF for temps 40 deg F & above.
760 05/01/2010 20:14:15 Graham Re: wich oil for fz 750 The manual was written nearly 30 years ago - modern 10W40 semi-synthetic is more than adequate.
761 06/01/2010 10:05:05 FZ750Horse Re: wich oil for fz 750 Thank you. Following your advice, the engine now runs.
762 08/01/2010 16:07:02 velimir Re: wich oil for fz 750 Cliff, If memory serves, the bearing and oil seal for impeller exit from what would be the engine side of waterpump, mechanical seal from inside of pump. Thus with care you should be able to replace "oil seal" without disturbing mechanical seal. be sure to inspect impeller shaft for wear, and "nose" oring. Personally, I'd replace impeller, both seals, bearing & oring and be done with it. as "burping" the system can be a chore. luck G
763 08/01/2010 17:23:06 Graham Re: wich oil for fz 750 thx you too,i wont just say stat this web page is best thing ever i saw about bike,thx you all.....
764 08/01/2010 18:46:29 FZ750Horse Re: wich oil for fz 750 I used used Silkonlene comp-4 10W40 in my TRX850 all last year with no problems at all. Recommended by my local bike shop owner. Engine quiet, clutch fine. :-D Might have been fully synthetic though ?
765 08/01/2010 22:34:22 velimir Re: wich oil for fz 750 Dear grunt33 I'm very interested in buying the slider. Pls contact me off list at "". Regards Cliff
766 07/01/2010 22:46:46 Cliff Water pump leaking oil Paul I would love to see some pictures of the GPZ1100 or the 750 Turbo. 8-) A mate of mine had a turbo back in the late 80's. They were the 1st genuine 150mph 750 as I recall ?
767 08/01/2010 02:17:42 ganepeil Re: Water pump leaking oil ok, i got it,brand name is not important,so oil with 10w40 is best for my engine,half of synthetic,i don't wont put not quality oil,i wont my engine work good,probably i will use brand shell or silkonele or motul,so does someone have experience with these oils,i mean on specification with 10w40 half-synthetic,i mean on problem with clutch....i read about that on some forums.....thx
768 08/01/2010 06:36:03 RIFLEMAN Re: Water pump leaking oil ok swaped out the blinker relay and still nothing, the blinkers still go solid after about 1000-1100 rpms, could it be the voltage regulator? the headlight doesent get brighter though when u rev it, just the blinkers go solid
769 15/01/2010 23:25:32 Cliff Gummed up clutch got it made from scratch just need to tidy up the bars and the ignition switch .
770 16/01/2010 19:55:41 dave1000 Re: Gummed up clutch My 85 FZ750 has just woken from a 16 month sleep. The clutch isnt working - I'm guessing the plates have stuck themselves together. (I think the clutch slave is working OK at it feels OK at the lever and as I pull the clutch lever in I reckon I can feel and hear the slave working and driving the pushrod.) Assuming the plates have stuck themselves together any ideas how to unstick them short of pulling the clutch apart and cleaning them up? Or do I just pop her into bottom and ride the rear brake until the stiction lets go? Thanks Cliff
771 22/01/2010 18:04:56 Graham rebuilt engine, non starter Hi All, I have a 1986 FZ with Standard paintwork, red and white with blue stripe. However the fairing lowers are the wrong colour, i.e. silver. Could someone tell me what is the closest 'car' colour so I can obtain an aerosol from the local car parts shop, respray the panels and get the bike looking a little better than it does now. Thanks Andy
772 22/01/2010 18:16:11 wheaty8918 Re: rebuilt engine, non starter I hope this isn't the 1st of many from me on this subject but I will throw it out in case someone suggests something I have overlooked. Having replaced my cylinder head last month the engine is now back in the bike but I can't get it to run, not even slightly. I have a spark on all 4 plugs which was poor even with a new, fully charged battery but by jumping the bike from my van the spark is plenty good enough in my experience. I have rigged up a temp' fuel tank & tried it via the fuel pump & directly to the carbs in case the pump was dodgy. There is fuel getting to the chambers. Other than the odd feeble flame from one of the ports now & then I am yet to hear any sign that it might fire up even briefly. :-( I have tried with exhaust fitted & now without. In my paranoia I even took the cam cover off to check the timing & everything lines up exactly, both cams, TDC mark on crank all perfectly in place so I'm confident this is not the problem. I was beginning to think my ignition timing was out but as it's not adjustable I don't think it can be can it ? I have another FZ which hasn't run for over a year so thinking of trying the carbs from this one as mine have been stripped & cleaned so maybe something not right there ? I will try the coils from the other bike & maybe the CDI unit but if none of these work I have no idea what it could be. When rigging up a temporary fuel supply I see no other pipes to connect apart from the fuel in to the carbs. Are there any others from the tank or air box I might be overlooking ? :-? As I say, been trying today with jump leads from my van so plenty of juice to turn it over but still no joy. Anyone fancy a stab at the source of my problem ? I'm willing to try anything at this stage.
773 22/01/2010 18:22:31 Graham Re: rebuilt engine, non starter I know you say that you've cleaned the carbs but when I've had an FZ laid up for a while, I've tried to start it and had problems similar to yours only to find that even after having cleaned the carbs I've failed to notice that the pilot jets have been blocked. These jets have such fine holes that I'd missed them and as they control the idle/low rev fuel I'd got no chance of starting it, its just an idea, best of luck.
774 24/01/2010 17:29:53 dave1000 Re: rebuilt engine, non starter Let us know how you get on with it & post a pick of it when you've done if you don't mind.
775 24/01/2010 18:43:26 bnail Re: rebuilt engine, non starter I haad this problem after I rebuilt my engine recently. It would not start so I put some quick start down the airfilter and it started and has done eversince. Be careful this stuff is highly inflamable. Let us know. Best of luck.
776 26/01/2010 18:17:23 djcrow22 Re: rebuilt engine, non starter Cliff, P/N according to my "vintage yamaha micro fiche" for lower fork bush is/was 1AE-23125-00-00. luck g
777 26/01/2010 23:35:08 Graham Re: rebuilt engine, non starter Graham, I see you're online, just wanted to say hi. I've been completely ignoring my steed in the garage but momentum is building to get back at it. I see you are dealing with a cranky motor, don't give up, you'll get it eventually. I know I'll be dealing with similar issues soon enough. I have the carbs off now and been going through them and getting my suspension pieces made up. Take care...Kevin
778 27/01/2010 17:12:19 djcrow22 Re: rebuilt engine, non starter Hello, I might be able to help once mine is running ! I have spares but not sure what is needed yet so bear with me. Fill in your profile so we know where you're from or you will have Peter on your back ! :lol:
779 09/02/2010 17:59:11 Graham Re: rebuilt engine, non starter Thanks for the picture Kevin, the girls in your collection are slightly more classy than the ones in mine ! :lol: Still no joy with this motor unfortunately. I have tried everything but a compression test now so that seems like the next logical step. I have a good spark from all 4 plugs but still swapped the coils. Also tried a different ecu/cdi. Stripped the carbs again & cleaned out all the jets but they were pretty good from the last owners efforts. I found tiny pin holes in 3 out of my 4 diaphragms so swapped all 4 with the ones from my spare carbs which Glenn kindly threw in with the engine I bought ! Thanks again Glenn. Fairly certain my carbs are good now. I'm getting fuel no problem but even using a squirt of easy start I'm just getting the odd flame from the exhaust but no life. :-( I'm leaning towards valve clearances now so next job is to buy a compression tester. I know this bike was supposed to keep me busy but this is getting beyond a joke now ! :-o
780 12/02/2010 03:56:12 ganepeil Re: rebuilt engine, non starter Graham. Have you ever had this project run? did you check valve clearances upon assy? does it at least make popping noises when cranking? what was reason for R/R head?.... Curious.... were I you, I would.. insure plugs dry.confirm spark, finagle a finger to plug holes &confirm at least a modocrum of compression.remove carbs and lightly spray some combustible into intake throats. install plugs & crank.if no sign of life, confirm coil wires are 1-4, 2-3. if proper, reverse wires at coils IE in sets. r/w,gray, & r/w,or. intemittant flaming could be an indicator of spark 180 out. Ignitors sometimes fail, two of the most common, are 1st, a spark at inital crank -then none, or consistant spark but at random timing, (almost impossible to assertain unless bike runs) luck g
781 12/02/2010 11:13:30 Graham Re: rebuilt engine, non starter G, heard it running briefly on the day I picked it up which is why I bought it ! I did check clearances "before" stripping the damaged head (exhaust stud holes drilled out by a 1 handed blind man) but right or wrong I assumed they would remain within tollerance on the replacement head ? Confession time, I never checked them when I reassembled & 1 or 2 were a bit tight before hand but it ran nicely once upon a time. :oops: There is the odd bang when cranking if I open the throttle 1st. I honestly didn't think the spark could be 180 out ??? Could I have caused that when setting ther valve timing ? Now I'm confused. :-?
782 12/02/2010 23:06:24 ganepeil Re: rebuilt engine, non starter G, I doubt valve timing is off, as there is only 1 mark on crank, and cams, tho if you'd like to double check, simply locate cr. timing mark and verify lobe is at @10 o'clock and intake lobe is @2 o' thought was that coils/wires were reversed as this would render ign. timing 180 out.which often results in periodic backfire/no run.. G
783 17/02/2010 15:34:34 Graham Re: rebuilt engine, non starter Think I've found my problem today. Only number 3 cylinder with any compression and that is low. Valve clearances are nothing like they were when I stripped the head, most on the inlet side have no clearance at all. :-( That's what you get for cutting corners folks, I only hope this IS the problem & it runs when I replace the shims.
784 17/02/2010 16:55:32 bnail Re: rebuilt engine, non starter Hi Graham The valve clearance problem will be your running issue, it's a pain but they must be right, when you do the shims go for the top end spec clearance. The thing with these motors they go a long time between checks so its worth the effort.It will run i have faith All the best glennyam
785 17/02/2010 23:00:40 Graham Re: rebuilt engine, non starter Ok Glenn but when you say the top end spec clearance you mean the shim that will give me the minimum requirement of clearance so that it will bed in/wear down to the maximum tollerance but not before I've done 20 or so thousand miles yes ? I have just worked out that I need these shims, 2x165, 5x170, 6x175, 2x180 & 2x185 How do I go about buying these in the quanities I need & from who ? Just a side note, does anyone think that lapping my valves in would have reduced the clearances enough to give me all this trouble ? :-?
786 19/02/2010 14:15:07 bnail Re: rebuilt engine, non starter Hi Graham Yes shim the valves to achieve the biggest clearance intake- 0.11 to 0.20 exhaust - 0.21-0.30 . As for sourcing new shims main dealer can supply you or someone like wemoto look on net and you will find what you need.Ask other people from other forums, they my exchange/sell you shims. Regards glennyam
787 26/02/2010 18:37:30 Graham Re: rebuilt engine, non starter Well, using a few of the smaller shims I had in my engine & some from my "other" FZ I have managed to gather 11 of the 20 needed. Ordered the other 9 from Alf England in Bedworth today after yet another check to make sure I have measured my clearances properly. I drove all the way there in my van yesterday to see what shims they had in their workshop that I could swap for mine but they were all too big. :roll: New ones should be arriving mid week so fingers crossed I will have the engine running by this time next week. I can't wait. :hammer:
788 04/03/2010 18:10:08 Graham Re: rebuilt engine, non starter It's alive ! :-D And boy does it sound sweet. Rode my fireblade over to Alf England after work Tuesday to collect the shims I had ordered. I fitted them after work on Wednesday but working at my mates house with no electric in his garage so the sun went in before I could put it together enough to start it. I have been trying to give myself a day off all week but work must come 1st so today was the day. Only had to time it up again (I swear I could do this with one hand & my eyes closed now !) & fit cam cover. It started almost instantly with choke but I had a good feeling it would. To say I'm relieved is a massive understatement (big word for today). I'm also chuffed to bits as it not only started easily even with my almost flat battery but it sounds soooo sweet engine wise & the Laser system looks & sounds super cool too. 8-) Total cost to date.. . . it doesn't matter, it works & that's all I care about. :-D I'm off out for a few beers with my mate later tonight to celebrate, that's how pleased I am ! :pint:
789 04/03/2010 19:12:13 dave1000 Re: rebuilt engine, non starter Really glad all is well now. Does Alf England have a website?
790 04/03/2010 19:18:43 Graham Re: rebuilt engine, non starter Yes mate. I would think Flitwicks are every bit as good & only down the road for you. I have ordered stuff from Flitwicks delivered to my house on a few occasions now & they are very efficient. One of the mechanics there is very knowledgeable (another big word for tonight) regards the FZ too. :-) You probably know all of this already but it doesn't hurt to mention just in case.
791 27/01/2010 06:04:14 illenium FZ700 Jet Needle needed > Carb Sorry Kevin I missed you earlier. Not heard from you for a while. :-( Bit disappointed you have neglected to post one of your lovely pictures. :-D I've got to keep at the FZ & get it running as I've invested too much time & money to just give up on it now. Been busy this week fixing up a Peugeot scooter I bought my girlfriend for her birthday so absolutely no progress what so ever to report here either. Whenever I do something like this with a car or bike I always expect it to start up 1st attempt but secretly know it wont. :roll: One day maybe ?
792 27/01/2010 09:59:19 Graham Re: FZ700 Jet Needle needed > Carb Dear all. Thank you for your replies. I've had a further mooch using the cmsnl web site and they say PN 1AE-23125-00 has been superseded and replaced by PN 3KS2312500 - Item 5/30 on the exploded parts diagram for the fork. Looking at the parts diagram, if item 5/30 is the bottom bush, where's the top bush (and ergo, what's the part number of the top bush)??? All in all, the parts diagram only serves to confuse me. It's the wide split bottom bushing I'm after, not the narrow top bushing.
793 31/01/2010 06:16:37 illenium Re: FZ700 Jet Needle needed > Carb I updated my location :) Would be awesome if i could find that needle somewhere, i already order all the other little things for the carbs, the one needle is the missing link Tomorrow its time to check and clean the radiator :)
794 31/01/2010 18:42:24 Graham Re: FZ700 Jet Needle needed > Carb Once mine is running I will be in touch just don't hold your breath. I'm fixing up a scooter for my girlfriend at the minute so the FZ has taken a back seat (again). :roll:
795 01/02/2010 14:14:14 Graham Re: FZ700 Jet Needle needed > Carb Juergen, send me a message with your full address & I will send you one of my spare float pins assuming 750's are the same as 700's ?
796 18/02/2010 02:55:57 illenium Re: FZ700 Jet Needle needed > Carb still looking for that darn needle :)
797 18/02/2010 09:41:22 Graham Re: FZ700 Jet Needle needed > Carb My offer still stands Juergen. I thought you had bought a new one from Yamaha ?
798 25/02/2010 03:10:18 illenium Re: FZ700 Jet Needle needed > Carb Hi Graham, i tried to order it (from about 20 places) but noone would have the needle set in stock (single needle isnt possible to come by) i stripped down the bike completley to the frame and motor, as i tried to turn it over a week ago and when i hit the starter nothing happend (litterly nothing) so i'm inspecting the cable tree and while i'm at it inspect the frame and all other components. Also, i've managed to break the petcock (the little plastic thing in it) :-? Oh and the airbox lid is missing :-o Looks like this will be more intense than i thought, what a pain...i love it :-D
799 25/02/2010 05:12:41 ganepeil Re: FZ700 Jet Needle needed > Carb i, Years of fiddling & installing jet kits have renderd me w/probly a hundred or so random needles.If you'd like,you could mail me your' damaged needle. & i'd look thru my stash. an intact one would be better for comparison, if intested, PM me & i'll give a mailing address. only charge, you pay it forward. G
800 25/02/2010 19:39:26 FZ750Horse Re: FZ700 Jet Needle needed > Carb The needles (assuming we're talking about jet needles) should have a Mikuni number etched into the clip end. I believe US spec 1** bikes had 4 x 5CEZ6 needles, 2** bikes had 2 x 5CEZ6 and 2 x 5CDZ6 needles. The 6 suffix denoted a fixed needle - other markets had adjustable needles. These were marked 5CEZ1 and 5CDZ1. I hope this is some use.
801 25/02/2010 21:04:19 Graham Re: FZ700 Jet Needle needed > Carb Juergen I got the wrong idea from your early posts thinking you were looking to replace a float pin. Reading back it looks like you need a slide needle yes ? Still think I can help if you can't find one locally. I can send pictures of what I have here if you think it will help ?
802 20/02/2010 15:47:26 gaz69 Vacuum Gauges Hi All I was going to set up the vacuum on my FZ today and had bought a set of gauges from Busters in preparation. Well you can imagine my surprise when i found that the FZ inlet is M6 but the extensions supplied in the kit has M5 fittings!!! :-x Has anyone else come across this or am i the lucky one? Is there a way or either getting round it or buying the correct adaptors?? Cheers Gaz
803 20/02/2010 20:08:23 FZ750Horse Re: Vacuum Gauges I had exactly the same problem. Buy a pack of brass 40mm x M6 machine screws and nuts from B&Q. Cut the heads off the screws, drill holes down the middle using a pillar drill or lathe, thread the nut about halfway down and shove one end into the hose. Fit the hoses to the bike with them disconnected from the little plastic damper bodies, tighten the nuts and reconnect the hoses to the dampers - easy :-)
804 20/02/2010 23:50:24 gaz69 Re: Vacuum Gauges Cheers for that Gavin, Does it matter what size hole you drill? Gaz
805 21/02/2010 19:49:32 FZ750Horse Re: Vacuum Gauges I don't think it's important - I drilled to the same size as the M5 adaptors that came with them.
806 26/02/2010 21:34:22 wolseley Loss of power Hi, I have an 1986 1N ex racer. I do not know what mods were made but I have changed the airbox, air pipes to carbs, carbs and exhaust for standard 4-2. When cruising at 65+mph, in windy conditions, I loose power every time the wind gusts. Choke can help but not guarenteed.Am getting carbs balanced, again, but at a lost. Are there any other mods that can be done for racing.
807 27/02/2010 08:28:52 Graham Re: Loss of power Maybe you engine is just a bit tired & the wind is using your FZ's HUUUUUUUUUUGGEEE headlight as a sail & slowing you down ? Compression test would help determine engines condition. Not sure I like the idea of using choke once engine is up to temp. Sure I read somewhere that raising the tank a bit helps air flow to the intake. Do you have a filter fitted ? Maybe the wind is disturbing the flow of air into your air box enough to rob some of your power ??? :-? Did you have this problem before you started changing stuff ? Are you able to post pictures of your bike on here ? It isn't going to help fix it, I just like to look. :-D
808 27/02/2010 19:38:29 ganepeil Re: Loss of power W, My experiance is that FZ's like their airboxes. Both for the restriction it provides, and the velocity stacks which are incorperated. especially in the 3-5 grand range where the non-existant Exup valve in later models come into play. If I've read correctly and you've removed yours, re-install & give it a ride.I think you'll like it. A good read if intrested is Kevin Cameron's "Sportbike Performance Handbook", It includes(breifly) the principals of "airbox resonance", and exhaust pulse "reversion", both are particualary apt for the FZ. luck G
809 27/02/2010 21:01:42 wolseley Re: Loss of power Thanks for that. Bike has all bits as per standard, filter & no exup. Will comp test, wet and dry. Before this it did not cruise, only worked on full throttle. Had racing pipe and jets to suit - 152 and not standard 125. Went like stink though. As was when bought [IMG][/IMG] and as is now [IMG][/IMG]
810 28/02/2010 01:41:45 Graham Re: Loss of power [img][/img]
811 28/02/2010 18:23:36 FZ750Horse Re: Loss of power Stock mains for a 1986 bike were 105
812 03/03/2010 21:15:05 wolseley Re: Loss of power Sorry 105 but I have replaced carbs with working used set
813 04/03/2010 19:31:54 FZ750Horse Re: Loss of power I'm inclined to agree with Ganepeil - 65mph in top gear equates to about 4500 rpm which is right where these engines tend to fuel badly due to poor exhaust scavenging or whatever you want to call it. Is it possible that the head has been gas flowed and the cam sprockets slotted to allow non-standard valve overlap? Racers wouldn't care about how rough it ran below 8000rpm and tuning for top end power might have made the 'flat spot' worse?
814 07/03/2010 11:10:22 Graham Re: Loss of power [img][/img] Ha haaa, by way of a complete fluke I noticed you tried to post a before & after picture of your bike using the same link twice which (had it worked) would have just shown the same picture.. . twice. Using my powers of deduction I had a stab at changing the 0190 to 0191 in the link which as you can see, is a link to another picture of the bike. Now I wonder what other pictures I might find in your photobucket account ??? :-D
815 07/03/2010 11:14:55 Graham Re: Loss of power Answer; 1 more. :lol: [img][/img]
816 04/04/2010 18:41:42 wolseley Re: Loss of power Well I eventually sorted it. As simple as it sounds it was luck and the arrival of a service manual. I was looking at cable routing etc and noticed that 2 pipes that were connected to the carbs, on my bike, should have been connect to the airbox. These are the ones that connect to the outside, then join into one with what I believe is a NRV. :-D
817 04/04/2010 18:44:56 wolseley Re: Loss of power Brill book. Thought I new engines as I am an Aircraft Propulsion Engineer but I was wrong. It enlightened me to a new way of thinking about them. :-P Thanks
818 04/04/2010 19:35:57 Graham Re: Loss of power I think I know the 2 pipes you mean. I thought they were overflow pipes & actually "should" go to the carbs ? :-? Must check my manual now.
819 04/04/2010 19:43:06 wolseley Re: Loss of power There should be 6 from the carb, 2 0verflow and 4 drain
820 28/02/2010 18:00:58 rclifford FZR 1000 Degreeing the cams, is it worth it? Guys, Just in the process of re-building my FZR1000 engine for my FZ. And I was thinking is there much to gain from slotting the cam sprockets and degreeing the cams?, I had a look in the FZR workshop manual and it doesn稚 give the actual valve timing. So first is it worth doing and second does anyone know the FZR1000 valve timing?? Cheers Ross
821 28/02/2010 18:45:53 ganepeil Re: FZR 1000 Degreeing the cams, is it worth it? Ross, Good question, Sorry I have nothing for you. In the day, Club level racers mostly simply upped compression via Wisco, & flowed heads, with some going to kehein roller flatslides. Personally, I doubt there's a great deal to be gained by "massaging" stock cams. from experiance tho, i will say the change from the roughly 78 hp to 130+ of the thou, will put a smile on yer' mug. If you haven't already, consider brakes... Stokers were marginal at best, Wish you many happy miles..G
822 23/03/2010 21:17:57 Weiner127 Re: FZR 1000 Degreeing the cams, is it worth it? Graham, Greetings from across the pond. Been out of commission for awhile but getting back to the bike. Nice work on your bike, that tailpiece looks great. Weather is warming up so I'll post some pics soon...Take care [img][/img]
823 24/03/2010 09:42:26 rclifford Re: FZR 1000 Degreeing the cams, is it worth it? Thought this would help anyone looking to buy an FZ. If the link stops working you can safely asume the ad is old & the bike is sold. Last one is just the bodywork but it's such a bargain (at the moment) I thought I would include it. :-D Some nice bikes in that lot I think. 8-)
824 05/03/2010 18:59:23 FZ750Horse Gasket Sets Assuming I get through this season without destroying anything, next winter's project will be to do a full-on race engine. I'm going to start gathering parts now, beginning with a gasket set. There's no shortage of people advertising kits but I've no idea what the quality is like. Does anyone have any recommendations or otherwise? There are still a few Vesrah kits turning up on eBay - any good? Most of the others seem to be unbranded. Thanks, Horse
825 19/03/2010 01:31:46 wamefou Re: Gasket Sets Hey guys, I need your expert advice. I'm putting the clutch back in my '86 fz750S and I've come to a snag. My clymer manual says that: "The last friction plate installed should be the plate with the one circular mark (I can see this). Align the circular mark with the clutch housing match mark." The manual has a drawing of the "clutch housing double embossed match mark". I can't see marks like the drawing has, but I have found two marks, has anyone come across this before? I tried to attach a pic below here to show the marks we'll see if it works... [img][/img] Any advice would be great, thanks... Okay I don't think the image worked. Just check out this link: [url=]Clutch housing marks?[/url]
826 19/03/2010 08:17:57 dave1000 Re: Gasket Sets Hello from Texas guys, I know I have seen over time different front end swaps and the easy one being the early FZR1000 model swap. Does anybody know if the front end off of an '89 FZR1000 is a bolt on mod like the '87-'88s? Also, how do you ya'll think Spies is going to do in GP?
827 11/03/2010 12:23:46 gaz69 Needle clip position i bought a set of whitepower ones of ebay but still have not fitted them due to waiting to do a total dismantle to get frame powder coated
828 11/03/2010 21:21:31 PeterL Re: Needle clip position I assume you've already turned it inside out. What size tyre are you trying to use?
829 19/03/2010 01:27:22 wamefou Clutch Question Hiya , i have just put an exup arm and wheel on my Fz an d have ridden it a couple of times and the chain does appear to be touching the tyre. Would it work if i turned my front sprocket around to give a bit more clearance.
830 19/03/2010 16:30:34 dave1000 Re: Clutch Question I have used a set over the Winter to rebuild my engine and have had no problems, I got them off EBay really cheap sometime ago.
831 19/03/2010 18:52:14 FZ750Horse Re: Clutch Question This probably needs some input from someone using 530 chain and an EXUP wheel. The 520 sprocket has a much bigger space on on side than the other - the 530 one might be central. It also occurs to me that the Exup rear wheel might have the sprocket carrier further out than the R6 one I'm using. If so, the carrier might need to be machined to get the alignment right?
832 20/03/2010 02:42:13 wamefou Re: Clutch Question Thanks, mine is a Genesis and it does have a 530 chain. i am not sure how to go about dealing with this one so i will go and see my tame mecknic. He is so clever he makes stuff up from scratch in his machine shop at the bottom of his garden. I have trained him by feeding him mechanical challenges to fix. :-D
833 20/03/2010 18:16:10 ganepeil Re: Clutch Question I used Metzeler on my FZ600, really liked them, then I was cheap-o and got Michelin's on my FZ750.. Didn't like them (these are all stock sizes). The front tire wore out before the first in kind of a scalloped pattern, I noticed someone else in my building had the same tires and same wear pattern. The back tire has lots of tread left but I've spun it on the highway before when going wide open. I also wiped out on the street-car tracks (I'm in Toronto, Canada) taking my bike to it's winter storage... but maybe not fair to blame the tires.
834 21/03/2010 04:42:51 wamefou Re: Clutch Question W, Motion Pro offers a tool, Logically enough called a "clutch hub holder", Rocky Tucker PN 15-0465, Tis' simply a set of vice grips @ 12" long with instead of plier type grips a set of 90 degree tips on 1 side and @ 10mm pins on the other.retails for @ $30.00, & will hold either clutch hub, or C/S sprocket, works on a multitude of models & allows access for torque wrench.G
835 24/03/2010 12:51:39 rclifford Higher lift FZ750 cams in a FZR1000 engine? Thanks for this, I understand the principle of what to do, but forgive my ignorance, is the 102 - 104 degree measurement from TDC to when the lobe is fully open or just opening? Would you say the 102 -104, would work with an FZR engine with a 1,029 big bore kit?
836 24/03/2010 12:57:55 rclifford Re: Higher lift FZ750 cams in a FZR1000 engine? Has anyone fitted FZ750 cams in a FZR1000 engine?, looking at a megacycle cams sheet, the FZ has slightly higher lift and duration compared to the FZR (But less then their race cams). It seems an obvious upgrade or am I being a bit dim here?? heres the link:
837 30/03/2010 04:48:26 alex_dee trouble !!! so here's the situation i changed the chain on the fz(removing the slave clyinder and chain cover) and when i reinstalled the chain and the slave cly etc. the bike would just stall out when puttin it in gear, i dont understand why this would happen, i blead the clutch to make sure and still same garbadge any idea's?
838 30/03/2010 08:41:49 Graham Re: trouble !!! Are you absolutely certain it is now bled fully ? Is there the same resistance with the clutch lever as before when you pull it in or is it lighter ? Did you put all the sprocket cover bolts back on in the right places ? I think they are different lengths so some might have gone tight without actually holding the cover properly if in the wrong place which would allow the cover to move instead of the clutch piston pushing the rod.
839 30/03/2010 12:10:18 daddyjay Re: trouble !!! Have you checked your side stand switch? It's very close to where you were working and would cause the symptoms you described.
840 05/04/2010 02:43:23 alex_dee Re: trouble !!! im probably the dumbest person ever it was the kickstand lock i can't belive i did that thank you for all your help you guys are always great
841 18/04/2010 03:23:47 killersaw Pls help buddy... Hi, I own Fz750 86' few years ago. My bike everything seem good in cool condition ride, engine start problem after get warm for 20 min ride. After de-accelerate for corner and try to accelerate back from RPM 2000, it will start misfire till it reach 3000rpm suddenly huge power come it. I been change to K&N filter, dyna ignition coil, new CDI, spark wire and cap, iridium ngk spark plug and numbers of service carbs. But it seem same problem come to me. Initial am using vance hines 4 in 1 exhaust. My engine number start with 1AE.... Any of you out there been facing this problem? :-(
842 20/04/2010 05:03:51 jinto345 1985 fz50 cdi hey there everyone new to the site and i just bought my first bike ive been rideing for years but this is my first that i own. I got the bike cheep because it was missing its cdi and bat i wanted to know if an 86,87,88 cdi would work on an 85 thanks for the help. Drew in Florissant Missouri USA
843 20/04/2010 07:51:33 dave1000 Re: 1985 fz50 cdi You need to check the numbers, which you don't have, a 86 might be alright, but not later. Someone else I am sure will confirm.
844 20/04/2010 14:48:41 jinto345 Re: 1985 fz50 cdi thanks im have such a hard time finding one that helps out alot
845 27/04/2010 06:33:39 PeterL Re: 1985 fz50 cdi Might be a bit late but checking spare bike number is, TI014-39/1AE-10 there's one available on Ebay/USA 120216497344, a little bit pricey depends on your finances, bye, PeterL.
846 09/05/2010 17:37:40 jinto345 Re: 1985 fz50 cdi Rexie's race bike has TRX arm & front end fitted, see here. Not s straight swap by the souns of it. Here's the link to a few arm dimensions.
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848 29/04/2010 21:32:34 gaz69 Exup engine into FZ750 I'm sure this may well have been covered before, but here goes! Has anyone fitted an 1000 Ex-Up engine into a FZ750? Can't imagine it's too difficult, but any info would be appreciated. Cheers Gaz
849 30/04/2010 11:03:07 wheaty8918 Re: Exup engine into FZ750 Hi Gaz I haven't got or done an Exup motor (mine has the 1000 genesis engine fitted) but I have got an article from Performance bikes of a bloke who fitted an exup motor into his FZ and on the whole it appears that it is pretty straight forward. The only problems mentioned in the article are that the bloke had to fit a 1000 genesis sump, re-plumb the cooling system (although it doesn't mention whether it was because the old one was knackered or didn't fit) and sort out the electrics. The article also mentions that there is quite a big flatspot in the midrange due to the Exup valve not being used as it apparently fouls the bottom frame rails, but then it goes and says that it isn't really noticable on the open road, they're not my words I'm just saying what the article says. As the bloke had K&N filters fitted and a laser pipe then maybe it could be improved a bit more, there is no mention of what carbs were used. Hope this helps.
850 19/05/2010 06:18:48 two0426 Re: Exup engine into FZ750 Pete, There is a rev-limiter.. It's built into the ecu, & cuts off spark to 2 cyls at 11 Grand. since fz/r's quit making power @ 10, I see no reason to try to circumvent... While I've never seen one on a 700/750, I have seen programable (add-on) units on fzr 1000's from Power Commander. G
851 29/04/2010 21:54:51 alliekat 750/1000 Hiya i was looking for a picture i saw n here of someones 7/10 fz it was very pretty and they had just finished it but i cant find it now, can any on tell me where the picture is on the forum as i want to have a good look for a the furure deveopement of my slightly tatty baby. :-D
852 29/04/2010 23:43:24 Graham Re: 750/1000 Was it Glenn's Allison ? Or maybe Gane's ?
853 30/04/2010 09:18:04 alliekat Re: 750/1000 Hiya Graham, its was Glenn's bike. I found myself thinking that next winter i might start getting bits together for a scarey full on pull it apart moment and Glen's bike is a bit of inspiration, yours looks nice now and they both put mine to shame (yours looks like a ypvs)Ganes does too. Any way Gpz 990 is running but i have found out the tank has pin holes in the lowest point and i bought one off e bay an that is the same but the guy wont answer my messages to sort out returning it. So if you know where a cheap solid Gpz 900 tank, is dont care about paint job (rough is cheap) pleeeese let m know. Hugs :-D Oh shock is boxed.
854 30/04/2010 13:47:28 Graham Re: 750/1000 Allison you can buy stuff to seal your leaking tank. It's 2 part resin that you mix together & slosh around your tank until it covers everything. I did my fireblade tank & it's been fine since. Fairly sure it's the exact same stuff I'm using to repair my fairing with which is just polyester resin but don't quote me on that. try searching on ebay for "tank seal" or "petseal". You need to remove the tap & everything from it 1st & make sure it's clean & dry inside but you knew that already. :-D
855 02/05/2010 14:15:50 wheaty8918 Re: 750/1000 [b][color=0000CC][font=Arial]Mine's been melted through by the header pipe. When I do fit another I will need to find a solution to get around the exhaust. I'm toying with butchering the one I've got and re-fibreglassing it with a bulge around the pipe.[/font][/color][/b] 8-)
856 02/05/2010 15:05:16 Graham Re: 750/1000 I've just seen an advert in this months motorcycle mechanics mag for Tapox tank sealer if its of any use. Price is a hefty ぶ7.97 and available from, phone number 01420 474961. As Graham has said, it's a two part resin and they've obviously seen us coming with that price, hope it helps.
857 02/05/2010 18:35:38 alliekat Re: 750/1000 [b][color=0000CC][font=Arial]I've had a similar experience with some of my plastics this weekend too. I get around it by giving it a good rub over with acetone solvent. This kind of mixes all of the surface stuff up and will take a primer. You can see the melty bit on the fairing so if I chop this out and bulge around it I'm hoping it should be okay.Wondered if the headers have been put into the wrong cylinders???[/font][/color][/b]
858 02/05/2010 18:37:48 tomster Re: 750/1000 Thanks everyone, i will check them out, i did think of useing stringy cheese or some food from the hospital canteen (am a nurse) but my friends have advised other wise. It will have to wait as i am very poor at present :-( hence why i havnt posted off the Shock graham)
859 02/05/2010 19:42:54 Graham Re: 750/1000 Too far for me to travel but it's a doddle mate. You don't need vacuum gauges either. I bought a nifty bit of kit which is nothing more than a tube coiled round with 2 tiny ball bearings inside. It came with 2 lots of fittings which go in place of the screw in the inlets allowing the tube to push over them.
860 11/05/2010 11:29:06 gaz69 Another 911 conversion question! Just out of interest, What speedo would you need to use if your using an unmodified R6 front end? Are R6's speedo's read off the engine/gearbox?
861 11/05/2010 20:00:46 wheaty8918 Re: Another 911 conversion question! Entry to the paddock is free, just go through the tunnel under the start/finish line and walk up past the cafe (don't be tempted to stop - they'll rob you!) I've managed to lure a pit buddy away from a rival team with beer, so you won't have to worry about being put to work :-D
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863 19/05/2010 14:41:45 wheaty8918 Re: Another 911 conversion question! I don't know of any paints that wouldn't just burn off, but ceramic spray is cheapish, adds a little power, aids cooling, looks good and will last 10 times as long as any paint.
864 19/05/2010 18:11:36 tomster Re: Another 911 conversion question! EH? I think I'm old and confused after that one!
865 19/05/2010 21:01:49 wolseley 160 bhp tune kit I posted a few photos here - pretty much the same as last year's, only the bike's yellow. Still sticking my head up like a 'king Meerkat :-(
866 15/06/2010 16:11:01 dave1000 Re: 160 bhp tune kit I'd stick to the recommended tightening why take the chance of a broken bolt or stripped thread, not to mention crushing a new gasket, PeterL.
867 15/06/2010 18:50:50 FZ750Horse Re: 160 bhp tune kit [b][color=0000CC][font=Arial]Where aluminium is concerned, it's always a stripped thread, unfortunately.[/font][/color][/b] :-(
868 19/06/2010 11:14:50 Graham Re: 160 bhp tune kit Chest freezer Tomster!, I mentioned fishing to you a while back, suffered last summer when my fridge freezer couldnt cope, I'll put the pipes back on as is, but in a few weeks will buy a chest freezer, will take photo's before and after of headers/downpipes and put them on the site. PeterL. P.S. If it doesnt work I still need a freezer, I'll try to find the post on the matter and list it, till then. PeterL.
869 26/06/2010 20:56:30 wolseley Re: 160 bhp tune kit Thats good from FZ750Horse, also go to other posts eg. oops-sorry 26/7/09 you have to go to "posts from beginning" to find it and other posts which may help you. PeterL.
870 01/07/2010 19:01:34 wolseley Re: 160 bhp tune kit Thanks for that. Only asked as it was mentioned in a old mag report on the FZ :-D [quote]
871 01/07/2010 19:43:35 dave1000 Re: 160 bhp tune kit When I apply the brakes I get a whoosh/hiss type of noise. New discs/ pads 1000 miles ago. Pads not glaced, Any one got any ideas
872 02/06/2010 17:00:03 rangerdave engine vibration does anyone have o-rings on each main jet or gaskets on the carb/jet holder surface, like part #'s 1AE-14227-00-00 and 1AE-14237-00-00 respectively. they're in the diagrams but I have metal spacers for the jets and nothing I think to seal the jet hold/carb joint. also what is the float bowl height? 7.3-9mm?
873 03/06/2010 00:48:58 ganepeil Re: engine vibration As of the last three days I'm getting significant vibration at the 5000rpm mark. Strangely, it was always really smooth and it changed quickly. I did put new tires on front and back but it was fine after that and it definately feels like engine buzz. The only other thing I did was change the spark plugs. I numbered the plugs when I took them out maybe I should switch back?? Dave
874 03/06/2010 11:34:52 rangerdave Re: engine vibration Dave, plug caps & wires sometimes become porous with age. A quick check is best done in the dark... simply fire the bike up & look for arc'ing at plug wires/caps. just a thought, G
875 03/06/2010 14:05:18 Graham Re: engine vibration I tried your idea last night with no luck. It was pitch black and I saw no hint of arcing. Too bad...I could go ahead and replace the caps and wires but I just hate throwing parts at something to fix it. I had a 20 minute ride home yesterday and the buzzing was annoying as hell. I could feel it right through the footpegs as well. If it always ran like this I could accept it. What actually causes the engine to run like that? Is it a misfire or weak firing sequence which throws off engine balance? I'm lost on this one. :-?
876 03/06/2010 15:41:17 PeterL Re: engine vibration I would have to guess that one of your new plugs is faulty Dave. Maybe not enough to cause an obvious misfire but if it was silky smooth before you changed them then surely it can only be this ? Any loss of power at all ?
877 03/06/2010 15:55:00 rangerdave Re: engine vibration Hi, Anyone tried these Iridium sparkplugs, are they good or your comments please, just about to do a tune-up/maintenance may change the plugs if they look like they need it, thanks, PeterL.
878 04/06/2010 11:58:19 rangerdave Re: engine vibration Hi, You should fill in where your from, bit hard to help you not knowing the country your in!! PeterL.
879 04/06/2010 18:17:24 Graham Re: engine vibration How does it show that you have no posts in your post count box yet you have clearly posted on here ? :-? As above, without knowing where you're fom we can't really help. I have spare standard clip ons but not really interested in posting them abroad.
880 04/06/2010 18:43:24 rangerdave Re: engine vibration Nice one Dave, glad to hear it's sorted. :-D
881 04/06/2010 22:27:53 Graham Re: engine vibration Thanks Graham. Please check your Pm's. Dave
882 15/06/2010 00:36:47 phatty81 leaking cam cover gasket [b][color=0000CC][font=Arial]Well done fella. Sherlock Holmes could have worked on bikes!!!![/font][/color][/b]
883 15/06/2010 05:46:13 PeterL Re: leaking cam cover gasket Hi Tomster, You just told me off the other day on about not saying where I was from, I use the name trinity there, good site, we are in kph here but at 4000 I get est about 88kph which converted is 54.6mph. Have you been to the gearing commander site they have the FZ in their data base just punch in the bike and press load gearing, great info, on everything from revs to speed, all the different ratio's etc, PeterL.
884 15/06/2010 14:26:34 phatty81 Re: leaking cam cover gasket Where did you get 7ft-lb from, Clymers lists general tightening torques, no 7ft-lb there, bolt 6mm = 4.5ft-lb, 8mm = 11ft-lb, 10mm = 22ft-lb, maybe do the bolt seals at the same time if needed? could leak from there as well. PeterL.
885 15/06/2010 15:36:59 PeterL Re: leaking cam cover gasket i got it from the clymer's manual. under the section in the "engine" chapter for the removal/installation of the head cover. 7.2 ft-lb. i ordered one of the cheap beam-type torque wrenches along with the bolt seals from bikebandit.
886 15/06/2010 16:42:32 tomster Re: leaking cam cover gasket [b][color=0000CC][font=Arial]As if I would tell anyone off!!! Thanks very much for the site, I'll check it out and see what comes up.[/font][/color][/b] :-P
887 15/06/2010 17:13:03 tomster Re: leaking cam cover gasket [b][color=0000CC][font=Arial]Where aluminium is concerned, it's always a stripped thread, unfortunately.[/font][/color][/b] :-(
888 17/06/2010 17:17:48 phatty81 Re: leaking cam cover gasket Look in the general forum you'll find "workshop manual" by hmmmnz, if you have trouble getting one there I'll email you the relevant pages for maintenance schedule from Clymers, and any other info you want, but you should list your email address in your profile, PeterL.
889 17/06/2010 18:40:58 tomster Re: leaking cam cover gasket [b][color=0000CC][font=Arial]You don't use a freezer, Peter, you use liquid nitrogen so it's just a matter of finding and engineer or cryogenic place near you that uses it.[/font][/color][/b]
890 18/06/2010 04:48:24 EagleHawk Re: leaking cam cover gasket The posts I saw the pipes were half as bad as mine, the pipes where filled with water and put in a freezer overnight, the after pictures show 95% of the dents gone, the water expands upon freezing, if mine come out as good as that I'd be happy. PeterL.
891 06/08/2010 06:11:23 RIFLEMAN Re: leaking cam cover gasket All cover gaskets on mine are coated with good ol' axle grease before installation. Keeps the gaskets pliable and they come right off when you want to remove them and the gasket remains reusable. I have never had a leak. Even sealed a complete MB5 motor using this technique.
892 26/06/2010 03:07:33 EagleHawk Setting float levels it's just there as a back up if ever this one goes out of action. :-D Grunt I love those last 2 pictures you have posted on there. Have you got any of the whole bike ? Top yoke is a work of art. 8-)
893 26/06/2010 08:28:29 FZ750Horse Re: Setting float levels Hey all, I'm getting ready to go in and adjust my float levels, (seem to be running overly rich across the board with stock jetting) and the manual isn't making sense. It talks about adjusting the level 8.3mm ABOVE the edge of the carb body, but the picture in the manual seems to be showing the measurement being taken between the float chamber line and the fuel level as seen in the drain tube. What exactly am I supposed to be measuring from where? Is it the fuel level 8.3mm BELOW the float chamber line, or is the manual talking about a physical measurement of the float above the gasket surface of the carb with the bowls removed? Or does the float chamber line even matter? I've seen a couple posts mentioning using that as a reference point for setting float/fuel levels, but the manual doesn't seem to mention the use of that line at all. :-? ...then again, maybe the stupid and easy answer would be that the float chamber line is in fact, 8.3mm above the edge of the carb, which would explain why it's there at all. :-) Any clarification from anyone else who has managed to figure this out would be great! Thanks, -Josh
894 26/06/2010 08:35:55 PeterL Re: Setting float levels The level should be 8.3mm below the line embossed on the float bowl. The easiest way is to use a piece of clear 6mm tube with two lines on it scribed 8.3mm apart. Fit it to the float bowl drain cock, align the top line with the float bowl mark, open the drain screw and the fuel should fill the tube to the lower mark. Keep the tube as short as possible to minimise the inaccuracy caused by fuel flowing into it. Easy :-D
895 02/07/2010 17:19:18 EagleHawk Needle Jets Hiya Grunt, I was going to fit an oil cooler to my bike some years ago. I managed to buy an oil sump from a 1000 genesis which has the 2 banjo bolt holes for the pipes but didn't get any further. As far as I'm aware the crankcases for the FZ 7 & half are virtually identical to the 1000 Genesis so all that you need is the oil pump, sump and radiator & pipes from the 1000 Genny and transfer it to your FZ. Just make sure you do your research first because I don't want you to blame me if I'm wrong. Best of luck.
896 02/07/2010 17:58:47 FZ750Horse Re: Needle Jets I think Steve Spencer had a design for a flow/return manifold that fitted between the oil filter and lower casing. Dunno how it connected though?
897 02/07/2010 20:03:39 EagleHawk Re: Needle Jets Assuming you have a US spec bike the Mikuni needle would be 5CEZ6. I looked into this a while back and was told that the needle was made by Mikuni for Yamaha's use only and not available from Mikuni themselves. I can send you an XL spreadsheet with the detailed specs for about 1800 different Mikuni needles, including these, but it's probably no use to you unless you can machine them yourself?
898 02/07/2010 20:19:42 FZ750Horse Re: Needle Jets I'm actually looking for the needle JETS rather than just the needles themselves. (Otherwise called emulsion tubes, or in the FZ's parts diagram, I believe it is referred to as the main nozzle.) I'm beginning to suspect that they have worn beyond spec, thereby creating symptoms of an excessively high needle. Lowering the needle may help some, but if the jet orifice is oval-shaped, the needle will never meter it correctly. :-( -Josh
899 02/07/2010 22:33:09 EagleHawk Re: Needle Jets Sorry, I didn't read your original post properly. I don't have any info on the jets. Gavin
900 06/08/2010 05:59:15 RIFLEMAN Re: Needle Jets Have you checked Sometimes they have much lower prices than the dealer for the same parts.
901 14/07/2010 01:43:29 Cliff Generator removal Hi I have an 85 FZ 750. The starter isn't working and needs to be removed from the bike. The manual says I have to remove the generator first. Any bright ideas about how I get the bottom bolt off the generator? Its buried behind a coolant pipe and access is very limited. None of my sockets are small enough to do the job. Thanks Cliff
902 14/07/2010 08:16:49 dave1000 Re: Generator removal Hi Cliff I think, as I can't remember properly you have to take the pump off to get to that bolt.
903 14/07/2010 20:58:10 tomster Re: Generator removal [b][color=0000CC][font=Arial]Yeah that's right. If you have a smaller drive socket set you may just be lucky enough to squeeze it in, but if you have a 1/2" drive set then you'll have to take the pump off. Bummer!!![/font][/color][/b]
904 17/07/2010 22:40:55 FZ750Horse Re: Generator removal If you replace the bolts with Allen socket heads it'll be easier next time :-)
905 15/09/2010 05:23:18 Cliff Re: Generator removal Hi folks. It's been a little while and I've got distracted with the balance of my life such that progress on getting the starter off has been zip until today. Yes the upper metal water hose ex the water pump has to come off before I get the generator off, before I get the starter motor off. (Oh, joy !!) But after a period of poking and prodding in the shed, I now seek confirmation that the top metal pump hose cannot be removed without pulling the complete water pump off at the same time (and hence taking the bottom metal hose off as well.) Thanks Cliff :-?
906 15/09/2010 19:10:48 dave1000 Re: Generator removal Hi cliff take the pipe off, it's pushed on with o rings.
907 15/09/2010 21:36:09 Cliff Re: Generator removal Without losening the water pump bolts?
908 16/09/2010 07:59:13 dave1000 Re: Generator removal I thought we had already decided to take the pump off, or I should say you have to.
909 17/09/2010 01:06:10 phatty81 Re: Generator removal i just took this pipe off. i had to take out the four bolts that hold the little manifold on above it in order to get enough play to shimmy the pipe out of the top of the water pump. i didn't have to loosen the water pump bolts.
910 17/07/2010 20:29:55 EagleHawk Spark Plug Cap Resistors (Or Not?!?) Has anyone else experimented with replacing the resistor in their plug caps with a metal spacer, and either run resistor-type plugs or zero-resistance ignition system? I've seen a few articles detailing the procedure for other bikes, and it seems to have worked out well for them. If nothing else, it seems like it would remove a potential point of failure, if / when the resistor breaks down. I also noted that the iridium plugs are only available as a resistor-type plug, so perhaps this modification would be in order if I were to switch out to those plugs instead of the non-resistor OEM plugs... At this point, I'm thinking that pulling the 10k resistor and replacing with resistor plugs might be the way to go. Particularly if I want to try out the iridium plugs. Granted, the resistance is being cut in half, but if the primary function of the resistance is to suppress RFI, then I'd think the 5K incorporated into the resistor plugs would be sufficient. Thoughts? -Josh
911 17/07/2010 22:38:39 FZ750Horse Re: Spark Plug Cap Resistors (Or Not?!?) I don't see why not but I haven't tried it. I renovated a bunch of plug caps with conductive paint - the resistors seemed to be just ceramic pellets with a conductive coating which had pretty much corroded/peeled off. I coated the pellets with silver paint until I got about 10k Ohms DC resistance across them and have been using them ever since. I don't think the value is critical - some of the caps were reading over 50k Ohms before I repaired them and were still working ok.
912 02/08/2010 23:02:04 EagleHawk Re: Spark Plug Cap Resistors (Or Not?!?) Well, I went and fired up the bike last night, and the spark was vastly improved over what I had with a stock setup. I finally have the nice fat blue spark I was after. :-D Aside from switching to iridium resistor plugs and removing the plug cap resistors, I also ran into a bit of corrosion between the various electrical contact points inside the plug caps, which I cleaned up as well, so I can't say that the improvement is 100% due to the plug and cap switch-over, but I daresay that was a large part of it. On top of doing the plugs, I also rejetted the carbs at the same time, which unfortunately makes it a little difficult to determine what performance increases came from what modification, although I would venture to guess any improvement in spark strength that is immediately noticeable to the naked eye would have to translate into some tangible improvement in engine performance. All in all, it turned out to be a nice improvement in general running for a little bit of work and some new plugs. :-) -Josh
913 02/08/2010 01:01:14 phatty81 FZ700 compression/valve/rebuild questions so i finally bit the bullet and did a compression test on my bike. the results, from cylinder 1 to 4: 112.5, 105, 102.5, 105. =( i did the test cold, with the throttle wide open. is there any possibility that tight valves could cause compression to be this low, or is it definitely rebuild/new engine time? the bike has 28k miles. the next thing i'm going to do, after the battery recharges and i get some more time, is the oil-in-the-cylinder (wet?) compression test to see what that does to the readings. i pulled the radiator to do the test and when i drained the coolant, it was bright green. didn't seem to be any oil in there. i had previously thought i had a blown head gasket, because the bike smells pretty bad and requires some throttle to idle until it warms up a bit. also, a previous owner has wired the fan to come on with the ignition and disconnected the temp gauge, suggesting overheating problems. one thing that was strange, though, is that no coolant came out of the water pump drain hole, and the bolt is bent. i'm thinking maybe the water pump is damaged, possibly causing overheating issues. i have a question for anyone who has rebuilt an fz700 recently. the pistons have been discontinued by yamaha. however, '88 2MG 750 pistons are still available. can these be used in the 700 engine? i'm pretty sure the bore is the same, but i don't know about the pin, since the con rods are presumably not the same... and a broader question: how the hell to you rebuild a motorcycle engine? hahaha. do you really have to replace all the valves? :-o can anyone direct me to some good literature on the subject that might be able to help a novice out? i have the clymer manual and plan to go through that. i'm sure trying to find another engine is more economical, but i kinda want to see what the inside of this thing looks like. :-P
914 02/08/2010 16:46:04 tomster Re: FZ700 compression/valve/rebuild questions [b][color=0000CC][font=Arial]I'm not sure what it's like over in your country, but there's always 750 engines for sale in this country and that is probably the route I would go down. If you loosen the output hose on the coolant pump and turn the engine over, it will tell you whether the pump is running properly or not, as there will be coolant coming out. Green coolant is a good thing so that is at least one positive. Although your compression is down, it's not way down and without actually seeing the bike running it's difficult to understand what the smell may be. If it's oil then your exhaust is usually smoky too and not a normal fine white exhaust. If you get another engine, you can still tinker with the other one. You generally don't have to replace the valves, as long as they are not damaged, but you may need to lap them in, de-scale them, fit new stem seals and re-set the clearances. Just a couple of comments but please let us all know how you get on and good luck.[/font][/color][/b]
915 02/08/2010 22:41:41 EagleHawk Re: FZ700 compression/valve/rebuild questions With only 28k miles, I would expect the pistons to still be OK. The piston rings can be replaced if they are showing signs of excessive wear. (They're still readily available for the 750, at least.) Seeing a major jump in a compression check after pouring a teaspoon or two of oil down the spark plug hole would tend to indicate worn rings. If the oil does little or nothing for improving your readings, then valves would more likely be the cause, which would make sense if they have never been adjusted over the life of the bike. If the valves and seats are in good condition, they'll only require re-shimming to bring clearances back up to the proper levels and you'll be good to go. Worn valves and seats can be re-machined to get them to seal properly again. If machining is necessary, then you'll have to remove the head, and take it into a shop with the tooling to handle the tiny valves and seats. On my rebuild last year, I did all of the above. (And them some!) It's a learning experience to be sure, but if you're up to the task, and are willing to put the time into it, a lot of patience and a good manual should get you there. I can pretty much guarantee a top-to-bottom rebuild will cost more than buying a used engine. Mine cost several hundred USD once I was finished. But you do end up with the advantage of having a much fresher engine that's been brought back to spec vs. another 20-odd year old that may or may not be running in some unknown condition. -Josh
916 06/08/2010 05:42:41 RIFLEMAN Re: FZ700 compression/valve/rebuild questions Always give the valves a lash adjustment before tearing into the mill. Valve adjustments were VERY expensive($220-280.00USD in '86!)and most people just didn't do them. Also,the valves have to be set correctly or you can't sync the carbs. The valves usually tighten over time,but someone that didn't know what he was doing could have set them loose before you bought it,causing the low compression. If I'm not mistaken,DO NOT EVER LAP FZ VALVES! The FZ mill was designed to burn unleaded fuel and has hardened seats. Lapping will remove the heat treatment and expose soft metal. As for your cooling system,mine was similar and the problem was bloom(corrosion)in the core plugging the passageways. Once I had mine boiled out,I was able to get rid of the toggle I was using to switch on the fan. A former V&H mechanic told me that this problem was very commom even if you change the coolant every 3 months. But be warned,after I reinstalled my rad,there was some remaining grit in it and it took out the seal in the water pump,so you might want to grab a spare pump or a rebuild kit and keep it on hand. Good Luck!
917 10/08/2010 02:42:17 phatty81 Re: FZ700 compression/valve/rebuild questions i did a wet compression test: 185/170/170/170. so i've definitely got worn rings, it seems. the first time i tested cylinder 1, i got 140psi, so i squirted a little more oil in and got the 185...which is too high, but i'm thinking the actual numbers probably aren't significant, it's the large jump in compression from dry to wet that's important. am i right? so is the next step is to pull the head and jugs to determine what needs to be replaced/machined? or should i reset the valve clearances first and retest compression before that? thanks for the replies so far. your advice is greatly appreciated!
918 29/09/2010 01:30:45 phatty81 Re: FZ700 compression/valve/rebuild questions i'm trying to pull the camshafts, and i've hit a snag. the camshaft cap for cyl.3 on the exhaust side is stuck. the lower left bolt (one of the long ones) was dry and rusty. i'm thinking maybe the dowel pin in that hole is also rusted and is what's holding me up. think it's okay to spray wd-40 in and around there? i can't see why it wouldn't be... any other ideas about how to pop one of these things off safely?
919 03/10/2010 20:12:48 PeterL Re: FZ700 compression/valve/rebuild questions Hi, You've probably done your job already but may help others with stuck or rusty bolts etc. On the NGW site they had a test freeing up rusty bolts with a number of additives, the bolt was estimated to take over 500lb to loosen, after soaking with WD-40 came free with 238lb of effort, the winner was a mixture of 50% Acetone and 50% Auto Transmission Fluid which took only 53lb of effort to free up after soaking. You mix it yourself, I've used it and it does work better than WD-40 which really is only a water dispersant (WD). PeterL.
920 05/10/2010 08:35:23 Dutch Re: FZ700 compression/valve/rebuild questions I'm with ^ WD40 is great and even has some effect as penetrating fluid. Although imho a real penetrating fluid is better, so use the purpuse made stuff for this cause. Never heared of the acetone/ATF mixture, but reading above that's a great option as well.
921 06/10/2010 03:01:11 phatty81 Re: FZ700 compression/valve/rebuild questions i got it off with a little coaxing from a rubber mallet. i'll definitely have to get my hands on some "real" penetrating oil for the next stuck bolt, though! i'm sure there will be another.
922 24/12/2010 04:36:13 RIFLEMAN Re: FZ700 compression/valve/rebuild questions A good penetrant available in The States is PB Blaster. We lovingly call it Panther Piss. There are these covers on the bottom of the trailer I haul that are held shut by carriage bolts and T-nuts. Being under the trailer,they are exposed to runoff from washing and road salt in the winter. This stuff frees them up and keeps them free about 90% of the time. The other 10% we usually fire up a acetylene torch or just break them off. But I am definitely going to mix up a batch of that 50/50 acetone/ATF and give it a try!
923 21/08/2010 05:54:44 Maniac Pushing oil out of crankcase vent line. Gotta major problem guys. My 85 FZ seems to be over pressurized as far as oil pressure goes. It is pushing oil out of the crank case breather line, as well as, pushing oil out of a valve cover breather that we added. Just took the pan off the bottom and checked the oil pressure regulation valve to see if maybe it was the problem, but that didnt seem to be the case. I have done a tremendous amount of work on this bike in the past 3+ years to get it to where it is now and this is the only thing stopping me from riding now. Im at a complete loss and am hopeing that this might have a simple fix. I have even run a can of Sea Foam through the oil for a while in an attempt to free up whatever might be stuck, be that the case. If anyone can help me on this, I would be so incredibly greatful!! (Aftermarket exhaust, K&N pods, and stage 3 DynoJet, otherwise the engine is stock) If there are any FZ gurus out there I would be more than happy to give you my phone number to speed up the precess of communication. PLEASE PLEASE HELP!!!!
924 21/08/2010 16:50:53 dave1000 Re: Pushing oil out of crankcase vent line. I know a stupid question but have you got the right amount of oil in? It does happen.
925 24/08/2010 04:01:37 Maniac Re: Pushing oil out of crankcase vent line. I am absolutely positive that I have the correct amount of oil in the bike. It will pump out as much oil as I will allow. A couple of days ago I built a PVC catch can that would catch the oil pumped out and then allow it to drain back into the engine afterwards. The catch can is 1.5" x 10" and it filled the entire can up and then began pushing oil out of the air filter I had on the top of the can. This was only after about a 10 mile ride. All the external oil lines seem to be intact and none appear to be pinched. I plan on doing a compression test but this does not appear to be a low compression problem. I have googled this problem to no avail. I do not think it is the oil filter. Its got to be something small somewhere but I havent a clue what it might be. I also do not think the bike is in need of a top end rebuild, although this might be answered for sure with the compression test. As I stated before I have put many many hours into this bike and have fought numerous crazy problems. I think most would have given up on it by now. I wish I could talk to someone who has dealt with this same problem before. If your out there PLEASE LET ME KNOW! I am greatly appreciative to any and all feedback on this topic. Thanks dave1000, and thanks to all future responders as well.
926 24/08/2010 12:25:51 PeterL Re: Pushing oil out of crankcase vent line. Hi, Not much on the net about it, try, when did it start??? while the bike was running alright, just out of the blue???? PeterL.
927 24/08/2010 18:11:14 dave1000 Re: Pushing oil out of crankcase vent line. Hi again I am having a problem on your external oil lines. Do you have an oil cooler? I do not have one, and the 85 model didn't so has one been fitted?
928 25/08/2010 06:59:49 Maniac Re: Pushing oil out of crankcase vent line. The top end of the original engine let loose on me so I purchased another engine of ebay, which only had 18k miles on it. The engine has done it ever since I have owned it. I laid the bike down last year on the 4th of July (found out a 100 degree day and fairly fresh asphault dont mix) and at the time it was not doing it very badly, only at sustained high revs. I finally after over a year, and many repairs later, have finally gotten the bike back up and going, but the problem is even worse now. And speaking of the "external oil lines", the bike does not have an oil cooler. The fz engine has some small external metal oil tubes that are located behind the carbs. These were the oil lines I was refuring to. I thought at first that if one of these had a kink/dent in it that maybe that could have been the problem, but that wasnt the case. I dont have the means to do a oil pressure test myself and dont have the money to pay someone to do it for me, so I have been unable to test the oil pressure/pump. I wouldnt think it would be the pump because it is a simple mechanical pump.
929 25/08/2010 07:48:01 dave1000 Re: Pushing oil out of crankcase vent line. Sorry I forgot about those.
930 25/08/2010 15:41:25 FZ750Horse Re: Pushing oil out of crankcase vent line. Have you checked the 8mm head oil check bolt on the RH end of the inlet cam casing? You should get oil weeping out of it when you crack it open to indicate that oil feed to the top end is good.
931 26/08/2010 02:21:29 Maniac Re: Pushing oil out of crankcase vent line. No, I have not checked that bolt. That is something that I was unaware of. I will be sure and check that, although I would think that if it pumped my catch can full straight out of the valve cover that the top end would be getting "oil feed". Im definitely no motorcycle mechanic and virtually all I have learned about working on bikes has been mainly from this bike. I will try tomorrow to check the bolt you are speaking of FZ750Horse. Thanks for the feedback guys! As I have said, I am very very greatful for all that I receive. Hopefully will find out soon what is causing my problem. To complicate things I just started back to college on Monday. My time is sparce at times because I am also married with a 2yr old and the bike definitely takes second stage to my little girl and wife. BTW......not to ask the stupid question, but the im to check that bolt while the bike is running...correct?
932 27/08/2010 18:07:16 FZ750Horse Re: Pushing oil out of crankcase vent line. Yes, engine running. It sounds as if something must be blocked or a relief valve is stuck - just try to narrow it down.
933 26/08/2010 09:34:45 billip FZR1000 pistons into FZ750 engine? Just wondering if FZ750 engine has enough room to overbore the cylinders to fit a wiseco 1.5mm oversized piston kit to suit the 87-88 fzr1000?
934 28/08/2010 07:47:00 Dutch Re: FZR1000 pistons into FZ750 engine? Use the FZR cylinder bank on a FZ bottom. Gives 911 cc and supposingly runs like a good one :) Trick seems to be to use double foot gasket, otherwise rather straightforward.
935 11/09/2010 02:34:20 phatty81 coolant in the oil? (pics) i drained the oil from my engine today, in preparation to remove it. looks like mud/chocolate milk. is this what oil with coolant in it looks like? :-? [url=][img][/img][/url] [url=]chocolate milk 5[/url] by [url=]polyrhythmic81[/url], on Flickr [url=][img][/img][/url] [url=]chocolate milk 4[/url] by [url=]polyrhythmic81[/url], on Flickr [url=][img][/img][/url] [url=]chocolate milk 3[/url] by [url=]polyrhythmic81[/url], on Flickr I'll be replacing the head gasket and inspecting the head and block for cracks and warp as part of the rebuild, anyway. i was just curious, because the coolant didn't appear to have oil in it when i drained that.
936 11/09/2010 23:29:46 FZ750Horse Re: coolant in the oil? (pics) That looks like about a 50/50 oil and water mix! Must also have a lot of dust in it to have emulsified so well. It looks like it's been standing since about 1985? :-D
937 14/09/2010 03:07:40 phatty81 Re: coolant in the oil? (pics) haha. your guess is as good as mine! sounds about right. i'm excited to see what the inside of the engine looks like. :-o
938 03/10/2010 12:39:45 prmorrill making an fzx700 into an fz700 plus fzr1000 carbs What a great forum, lots of fz knowledge here. I am a lurker since I own a 1986 fzx not an fz. My problem is that while installing a yzf600r swingarm and rear wheel I was forced to get rid of the stock exhaust {due to extreme width of Yzf swingarm} and the only one available on fleabay was a 1987 fz700 4 into 1 one. It fit, with some mods, but I lost a lot of midrange power. While doing some googling, I discovered that the fz700 had different cams and made 15 horsepower more than my fzx700 so, since it's time to adjust the valves anyway,{23,500 miles} I ordered a set of fz700 cams. I also found out that the 1987 fzr1000 carbs are the same outside diameter as our 34mm carbs but have 37mm bores. So I have also purchased a set of fzr1000 carbs. I have lined up someone to dyno the bike after installing the new cams and carbs {and modified air box}. My question to the forum is, has anyone experimented with these fzr1000 carbs and do you have any advice as to how to start the jetting process. I have been told to buy the dynajet fzr1000 stage 3 jet kit by a reputable guy on the fzx forum and am probably going to start there, but was hoping someone on this forum had some experience with these 37mm carbs. Thanks, Phil P.S. since I might not be able to get the fzr1000 carbs to perform satisfactorily. And since I essentially have, with the fz700 cams and exhaust, a fz700 engine,{minus the lighter pistons and rods and electronic ignition} does anyone have the specs for the fz700 34mm carbs if I have to go back to the 34mm ones??? Thanks, again, Phil
939 20/11/2010 02:46:59 killersaw Inlet and exhaust valve inspection Recently my fz750 87 give low compression when engine run hot condition, my mechanic told my this is due to inlet and exhaust valve had badly wear. He did ask me to feel the valve closing part to seat of head, i can feel the metal part was very sharp like knife. Does this condition normal? He told me the valve normal condition should thicker and round when touch. Anyone out there been change the valve before? Can recommend internet seller which can ship international to me? Hope to get more info from you all...thanks.
940 21/11/2010 01:06:41 ganepeil Re: Inlet and exhaust valve inspection Killer, Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, But, no, Your' valves shouldn't be sharp. Stock the edges of your' valves were about the thickness of a dime. when they wear to the point yours are at three things happen,,,1st, your' possible adjustment clearance goes away (you run out of shim sizes) 2nd, seat contact area gets wide, (sound silly, but it requires more spring tension to insure sealing with a wider than spec seat.) and 3rd, the "missing" mass of your' valve's heads is important for heat transfer. OOPs, missed 1, while not stellite coated, your valves were "hard faced" with that now gone, wear accelerates at a goofy rate. Last time I looked valves were @ $20.00 ea. at 5 per hole and roughly the same for seat cutting, @ $5.00 per for seals, that makes a valve job roughly a grand. and thats assuming your' guides are still ok. sorry guy..G
941 21/11/2010 03:28:38 PeterL Re: Inlet and exhaust valve inspection Hi, Where you from killersaw, listen to Ganepeil lot of wisdom there!, maybe a second hand head from Ebay? maybe cheaper than a rebuild. PeterL.
942 21/11/2010 07:19:21 killersaw Re: Inlet and exhaust valve inspection Thanks Bro for all comment being given... am from malaysia. I did try to look into ebay for solution but the head been year on the road since 87. just wondering the reply from seller how true of the head condition. The head price is not high but the shipping cost me usd150 to 200.
943 21/11/2010 21:44:44 ganepeil Re: Inlet and exhaust valve inspection Just a thought, how common are engines in your' neighborhood? Pre-EXUP 1000's are "plug-in" with a little plumbing, and the gains impressive. G
944 23/11/2010 03:53:02 killersaw Re: Inlet and exhaust valve inspection I been try look in FZR engine but too little in my country. I just to ask around in ebay those valve head condition. This make me bit save $$$.
945 27/11/2010 09:33:49 Dutch Re: Inlet and exhaust valve inspection understand your problem, that head is surprisingly heavy so (specially international) shipping isn't cheap. Good luck!
946 30/11/2010 06:49:43 Cliff tips for refilling coolant Hi I've had to remove the water pump to get to the starter motor off my 1985 FZ750. I'm now reassembling the bike and wonder if there are any tips to refilling the coolant. There don't seem to be any air bleed holes. Do I just fill it up, let it run, and then top up further? Or is there an "higher art" to refilling the coolant? Thanks Cliff
947 30/11/2010 14:50:03 PeterL Re: tips for refilling coolant Hi, Maybe some other way, but fill to the top then run it get it good and hot, the movement of water and air rising to the top will expel the air, you will probably find when you open the radiator when it's COOLED the level has dropped because of the air is out of the system, top up, then ride. If you have a Clymers manual that's all they have on the subject, if you want to really replace the coolant and get rid of all the old stuff there are four drain plugs in the system. PeterL.
948 12/01/2011 19:11:20 Akirasan Shims Hi is there anyone in the uk that has some shims for an FZ 750 1fn for sale?? I need 6 x 175 and 2 x 170 no one in Leicester will do an exchange. Thanks
949 25/03/2011 10:45:48 Graham Re: Shims I know this is nearly 3 months on but gaz69 on here, might have some of what you are after if you still need them? This is his profile if you can't find him.
950 27/03/2011 07:45:02 Dutch Re: Shims Valve clearance tends to decrease, so with an exchange your friendly bike shop gets stuck with the big ones and has to buy the thin ones from Yamaha. Not to mention the time it takes to help someone is time not spent in the workshop. So it's no surprise would like you to pay for the shims.
951 15/04/2011 19:59:05 tomster Re: Shims [b][color=0000FF][font=Arial]Or you could get someone to take them down on a surface grinder for you[/font][/color][/b]
952 16/04/2011 20:10:47 Graham Re: Shims Are you serious Tom? I ask because every engineering type person I suggested this to dismissed the idea saying they were either too small to hold or that it would alter the structure of the metal.. . or both! :-?
953 14/05/2011 12:45:51 Dutch Re: Shims I guess he is serious, it does work fine with the flat shims of the -afaik- FZR 1000. There you can grind from the bottom. The FZ shims are cup shaped and grinding the top is probably not such a great idea. Just move the shims you have around as much as possible and then buy the ones you still need. They are not that excessively expensive. Cheers, Dutch
954 12/07/2011 11:48:50 tomster Re: Shims Yeah you can do it okay, but when I say grind them down, I'm talking about using a magnetic surface plate and a surface grinder. As for messing with the integrity of the metal, it would if you allowed them to heat up during grinding.
955 27/01/2011 08:23:11 Cliff Where's the fuel going? Hi I have a 1985 FZ750. I bought it about 12 months ago as a non runner. I got it running early on, and then drained the fuel out of carbs as I wasn稚 planning on fiddling with the bike for some time. Well I got back to it the other week, and got it running without drama. But as soon as I turned the motor off, I noticed the carbs were leaking fuel. My initial suspects were the big 徹・rings around the float chamber covers as the rear (i.e. float chamber side) of all carbs were wet with fuel. I was hoping that the fuel in the float chambers would encourage the 徹・rings to swell up, and the leakage would cure itself. At that stage I checked the tightness of the drain screws ・all were secure. The bike last ran about 4 days ago. This morning the bodies of all carbs were dry. Out of curiosity I carefully undid each drain screw, small container ready to catch the fuel. After doing each carb, I found precisely nil fuel in each of the 4 float chambers. No wonder the bodies of the carbs were dry・ So now I am after the collective wisdom. My prime suspect remains the big 徹・ring around each float chamber cover. But are there any other things I should be checking first? And if it is the 徹・rings, can I remove the covers (and attend to the 徹・ring) without taking the carbs off the motor? I can稚 see a reason why not. Can I 澱odge・the job just trying to augment the 徹・ring with a lick of silicon sealer? Or must I replace each 徹・ring with a new one? Any other general thoughts relevant to this adventure would be appreciated. Cliff
956 27/01/2011 08:43:03 Graham Re: Where's the fuel going? I would think one or more of your floats were stuck from when you emptied the carbs Cliff. Dry chambers today would suggest that excess fuel has drained into your engine.
957 03/02/2011 19:26:54 slash 1987 Motor compatability with 1986 model FZ Has anyone swapped a 1987 motor into their 1986 model? I have a 1987 motor (with the CDI unit) which I hope to install in my 1986 FZ. If anyone has done this procedure please let me know of any issues, if any, that I can expect. Thanks Mark
958 04/02/2011 22:58:12 ganepeil Re: 1987 Motor compatability with 1986 model FZ Mark, Is this swap 750 to 750 ? & if so, is the change from dual pick-ups to single?. G
959 07/02/2011 06:12:06 slash Re: 1987 Motor compatability with 1986 model FZ Hi G It's 750 to 750. 87 motor into 86 chassis. By pickups do you mean coils? Mark
960 07/02/2011 17:31:11 ganepeil Re: 1987 Motor compatability with 1986 model FZ No, I mean the ignition pick-up/s to my knowledge, all fz750's used 2 ign. pickups, Tho some fz700's (Can. & Euro) late models used only 1 (like the FZR 1000/750) which indeed require use of the corresponding CDI. which is why I asked. G
961 09/02/2011 16:27:12 slash Re: 1987 Motor compatability with 1986 model FZ At a glance everything seems to be set up the same. The model number on the CDI (that came with the 87' motor) is different than my 86' but I haven't pulled the tank off to compare the coils yet. Mark
962 14/02/2011 20:42:17 slash Re: 1987 Motor compatability with 1986 model FZ Hi G On further inspection everything checks out to the be same between the 86 and 87 750 motors. Two pick up coils as you said and the part numbers on the coils and CDI unit are exactly the same. Other than some cosmetic differences it all seems identical. Mark
963 14/02/2011 22:45:13 ganepeil Re: 1987 Motor compatability with 1986 model FZ Markkk, Then your're plug & play, A couple tips.. 1st, FZ's sometimes are slo to purge their coolant systems, Don't freak if bike decides to blow green a couple times w/initial heat cycles (While blown head gaskets/cracked heads do happen, they're rare) 2nd, once you've a "rider", toss some "additive" in your' gas, (Just perscribed amt. for " whomever's" Injector cleaning...) EPC,SEAFOAM,POLARIS I have no preference.... But, Genesis motors are seldom ridden as they were designd to run..AS a result, even properly jetted bikes often develop carbon build-up. the "safest" way to clean (without dis-assy) is to run (under load) (at temp) at revs which (to most) seem abusive. The trick is to break loose carbon without having it lodge on valve/seat areas. Then, (after a couple tanks) check valve clearances. (intakes tighten up typically while exhausts seldom change much). once you've established riding habits, WORK the engine periodicaly, that is, 2nd 3rd gear right to red-line. the bike will be "happyier for it" luck G
964 15/02/2011 19:16:02 slash Re: 1987 Motor compatability with 1986 model FZ Thanks G You are absolutely right about these engines being carbon pigs. They seem to run rich no mater the mixture. On another note have you had much experience with FZ clutches? My motor (original one - not the 87 you've been advising me on) starts easily, still makes great power and doesn't consume oil but I have noticed a lot more vibration and mechanical noise. It sounds like a worn out cam chain but I've read elsewhere that a worn clutch basket bearing is frequently the cause. Have you heard anything to that effect? Mark
965 16/02/2011 03:23:55 ganepeil Re: 1987 Motor compatability with 1986 model FZ Mark, Broken cl. friction plates are unfortunatly not un common, & by themselves not an indication of other failure. Hard "launches" & "whealies' often break plates/. sometimes w/out apparent damage. I was "freshing " a race bike a couple years ago & discovered 3 broken plates. goofy huh. luck G
966 19/03/2011 17:57:30 Dutch Re: 1987 Motor compatability with 1986 model FZ [qoute] On further inspection everything checks out to the be same between the 86 and 87 750 motors. Two pick up coils as you said and the part numbers on the coils and CDI unit are exactly the same. Other than some cosmetic differences it all seems identical. Mark [unquote] In that case your '87 is a '86 model that has been registered a year later. Probably a 1FT, it's mentioned on the engine. The 2** model is a 700 in the US, a 750 elsewhere. The 87> has a single pick-up so you also have to change CDI. Can be done quite simply, the only hassle is to fine which wire goes where but it's no major issue. Cheers, Dutch
967 24/03/2011 05:22:44 slash Re: 1987 Motor compatability with 1986 model FZ Hi Dutch Mine has two pick up coils. The only discrepancy is some wire colours. I've put up a post for an 87 Ignition System Schematic so i can compare to the diagram in my 86 service manual. Mark
968 23/05/2011 14:56:32 fabrik Fan activation Hi everybody. In my FZ I've never heard fan switching on. The temperature has always been between the low limit and the first sign on the gauge. Is it normal? At about which level of the gauge fan should start to work? Thanks
969 23/05/2011 23:50:52 ganepeil Re: Fan activation fabrik, You're one of the fortunate few, Most of us fight over-heating when ambient temps rise. Your' fan should switch on about the same time your temp guage hits the Red zone.(@ 220 degrees) if you'd like to check fan operation, a simple way is to jumper your' temp sender to ground (key on)fan should run,,, G
970 26/05/2011 14:13:27 fabrik Re: Fan activation Thank you for your answer! My bike's gauge never reached the "red zone" and it seems really strange to me because I've ridden a lot in the traffic also in these days of heat (here in Italy, at least! :-D ). The indicator reaches only the first sign of the gauge indicator. I wonder if it is something wrong in the temperature meter! Another strange thing that happen is that after a ride through traffic if I stop the bike with engine on it hardly keep revs and after a while the engine stops. I hope you understand what I mean... I wonder if is because of a overheating of the engine or something else. The minimum rev is setted to 1000 rpm
971 24/06/2011 23:33:01 alex_dee LEAKIN oil so i am leakin oil from a very strange place! i am leaking from the bolt that bolts on the oil filter houseing, i understand that oil get SHOT up the bolt so i replaced the o rings but it still leacks any suggestions?(i know its leacking from that location i cleaned up everything very nicely)
972 27/06/2011 17:29:55 dave1000 Re: LEAKIN oil It is possible you have overtightened and have a crack in the filter housing.
973 28/06/2011 13:09:24 alex_dee Re: LEAKIN oil i think i may have done that, but would't the houseing crack be visable"? have u done it before? i carefully examined the houseing looked good
974 29/06/2011 18:16:42 dave1000 Re: LEAKIN oil No I have not done it but it is possible. I would take it off. I am not sure about this, clean the bolt and filter casing up, push the bolt in and pour carefully some petrol inside where the filter goes and see if you can see where any leaks out. If I remember rightly the o ring should hold the filter case on the bolt. DO NOT SMOKE while doing this. :-o
975 30/06/2011 08:52:43 ValeRossi Re: LEAKIN oil Yea, smoking is baaad for your health.
976 02/07/2011 14:04:07 alex_dee Re: LEAKIN oil good point iam trying to watch my health! but you were right i did crack the housing the way i cam to this conclusion was i JB wealded the houseing which worked for a whole 10 min i guess when the oil got hot the jb weld seperated from the housing. any ways thank you for helping me with my bike and my health
977 09/08/2011 04:23:47 alex_dee studering im starting to think that im the only one on this forum thats has trouble with there FZ, anyways when i am starting from stop i fully realease the clutch at 1000rpm and the bike is struggingling till 3000 rpm (keep in mind im not fully throttleing it im just keeping my writt steady)after 3000 rpm its ok, BUT!!! today i downshifted a few gears and gave her and she was backfireing a little, i thought i had water in my carbs so i put seafome in the gas but didt do anything, is the motor on the way out? thank you once again
978 16/08/2011 19:36:05 ValeRossi Re: studering Hi! I had a bit similar problems a while ago; the engine didn't run clean until over ~2000rpm, and it also did backfire in the exhaust, at least once it did.. Cure for me was to check the sparkplugs, they seemed like 1000 year old from the outside and #3 plug was also loose.. The problem disappeared with new and properly tightened sparks :-)
979 20/08/2011 10:10:47 Dutch Re: studering sorry for late reply, am not that often on this board. @Alex: what exhaust are you using? Racing type with very little back pressure mess up low revs. Had a V&H 4-1 on my 1AE. Ran shit below 4K and was very loud above. With a oem 4-1 from a 87> and an oem 4-2 it ran great, also at low revs. Apart from that spark plugs, clean carburators etc are also important. Cheers, Dutch
980 21/08/2011 14:51:37 ValeRossi Re: studering Yea, dropping the carburetor bottoms off for cleaning is really fast and easy after u just lift the gas tank off first. Been changing those main jets frequently lately ;-)
981 12/10/2011 02:11:23 alex_dee Re: studering thank you for all your suggestions, but i didt change the exhaust on the bike, for the matter i did not change a thing, other then the spark plugs, i feel like it is dirty carbs but on the other hand why so suddenly who the bike react like this? with dirty carbs would that not be a gardual thing? or a beging of the season thing(reminders i do live in Canada). are there any other thoughts? thank you very much for all help
982 13/03/2012 17:31:02 alex_dee Re: studering ok almost a year now with this problem, i changed the plugs and it fixexd the problem for a short while i feel like either the plug got fouled up awfully fast OR i am running the wrong plug, what plug do you gentlemen run in your 87 fz750s? on the ngk site it says DP8EA-9, a guy i work with said it could be the wires, becasue althought i havent owned the bike since 87 i do belive that they are probably original
983 30/03/2012 13:27:09 ValeRossi Re: studering Hi! Hope u got it fixed already. I have some NGK Iridium sparks from Ebay, I think they were the same as the ones for sale there atm too; Iridium X for FZ750 89 - 94. My FZ is an '85.
984 15/04/2012 21:08:10 alex_dee Re: studering thank you for the offer on the plugs but that wont be nessary, after going through almost everything that could be wrong with my bike i relized that i never thought of what controls the timing or spark. since this bike does not have a distributor, i think what is broke is the pick up assemble (its like a cam shaft postioning sensour for cars with ESUs) has any one had trouble with this part? 2kt-81670-10 is the yamaha part number.
985 13/05/2012 10:53:13 zoltan1967 Re: studering hey alex did you sort it? z
986 25/08/2011 21:45:12 ValeRossi YEC race kit for FZ 750 included: CDI box, cam shafts, valve springs, clutch plates, complete exhausts, complete air box, carburetors (Keihin FCR39) etc. etc. etc.
987 14/11/2011 20:48:12 bnail Re: YEC race kit for FZ 750 Hi does this post mean you have race kit parts to sell? If so do you still have any of them and do you have prices for them? cheers Andy. Sorry just read you other posts, now i understand.
988 22/12/2011 19:58:12 ValeRossi Re: YEC race kit for FZ 750 Yea, no prob. I just added this for information.. I myself was stupid enough to dream that those 130+ hp's was made without new cams.. ;-P
989 23/12/2011 13:30:08 FZ750Horse Re: YEC race kit for FZ 750 I don't think anyone ever claimed 130bhp at the wheel for a normally aspirated FZ750. The F1 tuned ones made a bit over 115bhp but were pretty unreliable. The FZ was Yamaha's first attempt at a 4 cylinder sports bike and, according to Roland Brown's 'Rising Sun' book, was based around an experimental/race engine which made 130bhp at the crankshaft. Tony Tice got huge horsepower figures but I don't think his engine had any FZ750 bits left apart from the cases.
990 23/12/2011 18:14:46 Dutch Re: YEC race kit for FZ 750 Quite right you are, it's FZR 1000 with overbore pistons AND nitrous :-D :-D And over a 100.000 miles on the clock 8-)
991 07/12/2011 19:35:21 FZ750Horse 37mm carbs Does anyone have any baseline settings for 37mm FZR1000 carbs on a 2mg FZ750? I'm currently using 34mm carbs with 140 mains, 12:1 compression, stock cams, kit exhaust and foam filters on Harris stacks and it makes 100rwbhp on a Dyna Pro ( about 102.5 Dynojet rwbhp). I'm not bothered about increasing headline bhp because my class has a power to weight limit which I'm just about on, but I'd like to improve the midrange curve - any suggestions? I assume I need the 37mm inlet tracts? Can I use the same Harris stacks on the 37mm carbs or do they need to be a different height? Or should I stick with the 34mm ones? :-)
992 18/12/2011 09:46:50 ValeRossi Re: 37mm carbs Smbd told me that a CDI of an FZR 1000 would give lots more of midrange punch or smth to an FZ 750, dunno more exact details.. 8-)
993 13/05/2012 10:56:00 zoltan1967 fzr1000 motor in fz750 in 80s? Hi guys, does anyone have anything to show someone had run a road or race fz750 with an fzr1000 motor in the 80s or 1990? ta zol
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